Surrounded by towering stone walls and filled with juniper and wild olive trees, the Royal Enclosure lies at the heart of Gonder and contains the country’s most important imperial buildings. The oldest of the five castles is attributed to Fasilides; the most recent dates to the mid-18th century. But Gonder was also the empire’s religious center. The city’s rulers claimed biblical lineage, tracing their roots to King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, and many of the buildings they erected were dedicated to Orthodox Christianity. Of the dozens of churches that once stood here, seven were built during Fasilides’s reign. The most important one that remains today is Debre Birhan Selassie (Trinity at the Mountain of Light), famous for its walls covered with biblical scenes and its 17th-century ceiling fresco of 80 cherubic faces. Hindu and Arab influences are seen throughout, blended with the Baroque style brought to Gonder by the Jesuit missionaries in the 16th and 17th centuries.
WHERE: 471 miles/758 km north of Addis Ababa. HOW: Addis Ababa–based Ethiopian Quadrants includes Gonder in many itineraries. Tel 251/11-515-7990; www.ethiopianquadrants.com. Cost: 7-day trips from $1,250, all-inclusive. Originate in Addis Ababa. U.S.-based Safari Experts offers customized trips in Ethiopia. Tel 435-649-4655; www.safariexperts.com. When: Oct–May. BEST TIMES: Sep–Nov for nicest weather; Jan 7 for Ethiopian Christmas; Jan 19 for Timkat (Epiphany).
The Mystery of the Subterranean, Rock-Hewn Churches
LALIBELA
Amhara Region, Ethiopia
The subterranean rock-hewn churches of Lalibela are Ethiopia’s most popular—and mysterious—attraction. They have been in continuous use by Orthodox priests since the 12th century, when this remote mountain town was the capital of the Zagwe dynasty. Lalibela, a Zagwe king, commissioned the one called Beta Golgotha, the first of the extraordinary structures to be built and his burial place. Lalibela wanted his church to be made from a single piece of stone, and so it and subsequent ones were excavated rather than erected, some carved 30 to 40 feet below the surface. Their roofs are at ground level, and stairs lead down to the entrances. Some have interconnecting courtyards and trenches that form tunnels and passages between them.
Each of the 11 churches is unique in size, shape, and execution, precisely and painstakingly carved out of solid bedrock, some say by tens of thousands of workers. Unique for the technical expertise used in their construction, they are also remarkable for their refinement and are decorated with handwoven rugs, colorful paintings, carvings depicting saints and Christian symbols, and cross-shaped windows. The oft-photographed flat roof of St. George’s church (Beta Giyorgis) is carved with concentric Greek crosses.
One legend has it that at least one of the churches was built by angels in a single day; another holds that the churches came to the Zagwe king in a dream about creating a new Jerusalem for those unable to make the pilgrimage to the Holy Land. The real reasons for building the churches, as well as the secrets of how, exactly, it was done, remain a mystery. They are as treasured in Ethiopia as the Great Pyramids are in Egypt (see p. 378) and even today are a place of pilgrimage and devotion; on holy days, this dusty rural town is taken over by tens of thousands of worshippers.
Small and undeveloped, the town of Lalibela is set amid craggy, dramatic escarpments more than 8,000 feet high and looks down on the famed churches below. It is distinguished by a lively market and a collection of round, two-storied homes made of mud bricks and roofed with thatch.
St. George’s church and Lalibela remain an important pilgrimage site for members of the Ethiopian Orthodox church.
WHERE: 454 miles/730 km north of Addis Ababa. HOW: U.S.-based Adventures in Africa has scheduled tours featuring Lalibela. Tel 866-778-1089 or 303-778-1089; www.adventuresinafrica.com. Cost: 12-day tour from $3,325. U.S.-based Safari Experts offers customized itineraries in Ethiopia. Tel 435-649-4655; www.safariexperts.com. BEST TIMES: Sep–Nov for pleasant weather; Jan 7 for Ethiopian Christmas; Jan 19 for Epiphany; Apr or May for Fasika (Easter), corresponding to the Gregorian calendar.
Disappearing Tribes
OMO RIVER VALLEY
Ethiopia
A trip to the South Omo River Valley, much of it accessible only by boat, takes you back thousands of years through a kaleidoscope of vanishing, nomadic cultures. Because Ethiopia is the only African nation never to have been colonized by Europeans, the tribes here have remained nearly intact. The few thousand people who live in these green hills have preserved their culture to a remarkable degree, even as their numbers dwindle. Those who come to glimpse their distinct way of life before it disappears make one of a few tented camps or basic lodges their base, hiring guides to take them on trips to the communities nearby.
Not far from some of the camps is the bankside home of the Muguji (aka Kwegu), a tribe of just a few hundred fishermen, hippo hunters, and gatherers. They coexist in a harsh land with the larger Karo tribe, agriculturists who prepare for ceremonial dances by painting their faces and decorating their bodies with charcoal, chalk, and other minerals.
Farther upriver, you’ll find the remote Mursi and Suri tribes, whose women wear huge lip plates and whose men engage in ritualistic stick duels in order to determine who can marry. Even more intriguing is the rite of passage undertaken by young men in the nearby Hamar tribe. To prove their worth as initiated men, they must perform bullah, a challenging feat that is essentially a game of hopscotch across the backs of dozens of castrated bulls. Falling is the most shameful failure; success results in acquiring a bride. The Hamar women, among the most adorned in Africa (their decorative scars are a symbol of strength), roll their hair in animal fat and red ochre and wear metal ornaments to indicate marital status.
The Omo River ends at Lake Turkana, which lies primarily in Kenya, though its northern shores are in Ethiopia. It is here that you will find the Dassanech and the Nyangatom; the latter are warriors and hunters who harpoon crocodiles from dugout canoes and wear ostrich feathers in their hair, caked with blue and ochre clay, to indicate bravery. Elders are distinguished by their lower lip plug—ivory for men, copper for women. Their culture stretches back to a time lost to the rest of humanity, revealed only to those lucky enough to travel here and discover their hidden world.
WHERE: The riverside town of Omurate is 457 miles/736 km southwest of Addis Ababa and is accessible via private air charter. HOW: U.S.-based Africa Adventure Company offers a 10-day Omo River safari. Tel 800-882-9453 or 954-491-8877; www.africa-adventure.com. Cost: from $7,995. Originates in Nairobi. When: Jul. BEST TIME: Jul–Oct for nicest weather.
A Trek Over the Roof of Africa
SIMIEN MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
Ethiopia
The Simien Mountains, known as the “Roof of Africa,” offer some of the continent’s most dramatic scenery: great volcanic plugs, formed 40 million years ago and eroded over the eons into fantastic crags, pinnacles, and flat-topped peaks stretching from Ethiopia’s northern highlands to Eritrea. Simien Mountains National Park was established in 1969 to protect the land and wildlife, but the task is not an easy one. Development of farming villages in the park has hindered conservation efforts and placed the region on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in Danger.
The park has just one dirt road and sees relatively few international visitors, so exploring by foot offers a rare experience. An organized trek employs the services of a guide, a mandatory armed scout, and mules that carry food and camping supplies. The journey starts out following trails through terraced fields used by locals to walk from village to village. It continues past tree heather, giant lobelias, and other unique flora, stopping at campsites every night. This is the only place in the world to see many animal species, including the endangered walia ibex and troops of gelada, commonly known as the bleeding-heart baboon for the red patch on its chest. The entertaining gelada is the last surviving species of grazing monkey in the world and has more types of vocalization and behavior patterns than any animal but humans. Keep your eyes peeled too, for raptors, including lammergeiers (bearded vul
ture-eagles, with 9-foot wingspans), Auger buzzards, Verreaux’s eagles, kestrels, and falcons.
An optional ascent to Africa’s fourth highest peak, Ras Dashen (15,158 feet), takes about 9 hours. It’s not a technical climb; the only equipment required is a pair of strong legs. For those not fond of camping, the new, basic-but-comfortable, eco-friendly Simien Lodge (“the highest hotel in Africa”) has a 16-bed dormitory, along with 20 rooms that resemble traditional Ethiopian thatch-roofed tukuls on the outside and modest hotel rooms on the inside. The lodge can be used as a base for both trekking and biking. Guests will appreciate its hearty meals and radiant heating on chilly mountain nights.
Human settlement poses a threat to the rare species that are endemic to the Simien Mountains region.
WHERE: Trek begins in Debark 75 miles/120 km from Gonder. HOW: Ethiopian Quadrants organizes treks of various lengths. Tel 251/11-515-7990; www.ethiopianquadrants.com. Cost: from $100 per night, all-inclusive. Originates in Addis Ababa. SIMIEN LODGE: Tel 251/11-55-24758; www.simiens.com. Cost: from $155; transfer from Gonder $135. BEST TIME: Sep–Apr to avoid the rainy season.
In the Shadow of Mount Kenya
PRIVATE WILDLIFE RESERVES
Isiolo, Central Highlands, Kenya
In the foothills of Mount Kenya, on the edge of the Laikipia Plateau, a few fortunate guests can revel in spellbinding views of ridge after mountain ridge and enjoy the freedom to see wild game—great herds of everything from elephants and giraffes to zebras and antelopes—on vast private properties. Borana Lodge and Lewa Wilderness, neighboring cattle ranches comprising more than 100,000 acres in northern Kenya, offer game drives led by top-notch trackers and guides. You’ll rarely see another vehicle on these safaris, an almost unheard-of luxury in East Africa’s comparatively crowded national parks. Both offer horseback expeditions that allow for close wildlife encounters, as well as exhilarating nighttime game drives to spot predators and shy nocturnal creatures.
The lodges are small—eight cottages at Borana and nine hill and garden rooms at Lewa—but offer an intimate experience and personal service. Both are family affairs, passed down over generations. The Dyers at Borana and the Craigs at Lewa have been living on the land for nearly a century. Borana became the first eco-lodge in the region more than 20 years ago. Earlier, the Craigs had converted a parcel of their 60,000-acre ranch, along with some adjacent government land, into the Ngare Sergoi Rhino Sanctuary, now called Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. Fifty-eight black rhinos and 42 white rhinos are now protected from poachers by walkie-talkie–armed guards, who prowl the sanctuary, where guests at Borana are also welcome. While many African lodges discourage the presence of children, the Dyers and Craigs are happy to share their families’ experiences with yours. They have perfected the art of entertaining kids of all ages while simultaneously providing quiet, romantic settings fit for a king—or at least a prince. It was at Lewa that Prince William asked Kate Middleton to marry him.
WHERE: 150 miles/241 km north of Nairobi. BORANA LODGE: Tel 254/2-567-251; www.borana.co.ke. Cost: from $560 (off-peak), from $640 (peak) per person, all-inclusive. How: Nairobi-based Safari and Conservation Company. Tel 254/20-211-5453; www.the safariandconservationcompany.com. LEWA WILDERNESS: Tel 254/721-970-340; www.lewawilderness.com. Cost: $510 (off-peak), $740 (peak) per person, all-inclusive. How: Book through Nairobi-based Bush and Beyond. Tel 254/20-600-0457; www.bush-and-beyond.com. BEST TIMES: mid-Jul–Oct and mid-Dec–Mar to avoid the rainy season.
A Corner of Kenya’s Vanishing Wilderness
OL DONYO WUAS
Chyulu Hills, Kenya
Ol Donyo Wuas sits at the foot of the dramatic Chyulu Hills amid a quarter of a million acres on the open plains of Masai land. One of East Africa’s most beloved bush lodges, it is a partnership between local tribes and an old safari hand named Richard Bonham, who first touched down here in a Cessna in the 1980s. When he saw the rolling, wooded grassland and the snow-capped peak of Mount Kilimanjaro (see p. 425) looming across the Tanzanian border, he knew he needed to stay awhile and built Ol Donyo Wuas, whose name means “Spotted Hills” in the local Masai language.
Amboseli National Park, with its cavalcade of minibuses and Land Rovers, is a mere 50 miles away, but it might as well be on the other side of Kenya. Guests at Ol Donyo Wuas are granted exclusive access to the Mbirikani Group Ranch, one of Kenya’s few remaining wilderness areas that harken back to the Africa of old, where you’ll never encounter a traffic jam of safari jeeps. Rebuilt in 2008, the lodge itself is perched high on a ridge (the Chyulu Hills are really volcanic mountains), and its two stand-alone suites and seven villas have uninterrupted views of Mount Kilimanjaro. The villas all have private pools, and every room has two beds to choose from: an indoor one and a romantic rooftop “star-bed” where guests can opt to sleep with the constellations as their ceiling. When he’s not occupied by his work with the Maasailand Preservation Trust, the organization that protects the ranch and its inhabitants, Richard Bonham may pop in to lead a game drive, bushwalk, or horseback ride. Hear him share his years of wisdom as you set out into the vast land where young Masai herders and their cattle live among giraffes, cheetahs, and the Big Five (the lion, African elephant, Cape Buffalo, leopard, and rhinoceros).
WHERE: 135 miles/218 km southeast of Nairobi; www.oldonyowuas.com. COST: from $500 (off-peak), from $720 (peak) per person, all-inclusive. HOW: Nairobi-based Bush and Beyond organize trips to the lodge. Tel 254/20-600-0457; www.bush-and-beyond.com. BEST TIMES: Jul–Sep and Dec–Jan to avoid the rainy seasons.
Seat of the Gods
CLIMBING MOUNT KENYA
Kenya
Africa’s second highest peak rises 17,058 feet above the equator, its ragged, snow-dusted summits looking down on glacier-sculpted valleys and alpine moorland. Mount Kenya, a former volcano, is graced with more than 20 clear mountain lakes and trout-filled streams. Elephants, buffaloes, and the rare striped antelopes known as mountain bongos roam its lower slopes, where moss-covered cedars and giant lobelias vie for space amid the ferns, wildflowers, and orchids. Small wonder it is considered sacred by the local Kikuyu, Kenya’s most populous tribe: They build their homes so the doors face the mountain, believed to be the home of the god Ngai.
Although the highest peaks are reserved for experienced climbers, Point Lenana, a 16,000-foot peak, is open to serious trekkers, who can complete a guided ascent in four or five nights. This is considered the hidden gem of East Africa treks—you won’t see the legions of climbers who flock each year to the slopes of Kilimanjaro (see p. 425), whose summit is sometimes visible 200 miles away. Accommodations are in mountain tents that porters set up in spectacular valleys with views of the peaks and down across the vast central Laikipia Plateau district.
Start and end your trek at Ol Pejeta Bush Camp, a traditional riverside tented camp that allows an insider’s view of a modern, 94,000-acre private wildlife conservancy with the highest game-to-area ratio of any park or reserve in Kenya. It’s a 1- to 2-hour drive from the point of ascent. Once here, you’ll have the chance to visit the conservancy’s chimpanzee sanctuary, meet its tame black rhino, Baraka, and maybe even see the four northern white rhino, which constitute half the population of the world’s rarest large mammal.
Towering peaks like those of Mount Kenya are among the few places in Africa that see snow regularly.
WHERE: Mount Kenya is 100 miles/161 km north of Nairobi. HOW: Nairobi-based Insiders Africa offers guided climbs and accommodations at Ol Pejeta. Tel 254/734-445-283; www.insidersafrica.com. Cost: 7 nights, including 4-night ascent, from $2,800. When: Ol Pejeta closed Apr–May and Nov. BEST TIMES: Jan–mid-Mar and Aug–mid-Oct for pleasant weather.
Locked in Time on the Swahili Coast
ISLAND OF LAMU
Kenya
Not quite undiscovered, but still relatively unspoiled, the tiny island of Lamu is where you’ll find Kenya’s oldest living city and a fascinating glimpse of the country’s ancient Swahili and Islamic cultures. There are just a handf
ul of cars on Lamu—its streets are generally too narrow to accommodate any conveyance bigger than a donkey. And though it lies just one mile off the mainland, in the Indian Ocean, it is more reminiscent of the Middle East than it is of Africa.
Like Mombasa and Malindi farther south, Lamu is one of a string of Swahili port towns founded by Arab traders who dealt in ivory, spices, and slaves; it is the oldest and the best preserved. Men wear full-length white robes and caps, veiled women are clothed in black, and travel is by the traditional wooden sailing vessels called dhows. You can rent one (be sure to negotiate) for a romantic day trip around the Lamu archipelago, with a lunch of grilled fresh fish prepared on board. If you stay in Lamu town, choose among one of the old merchants’ homes converted into boutique hotels. At Baytil Ajaib (“House of Wonder”), a painstakingly restored 17th-century town house, all four suites have two views: into a palm-filled courtyard and into the bustling city.
Most of the hippies who arrived on the island in the ’70s have gone, replaced by younger European backpackers and a growing mix of the curious and the beautiful, along with a tight-knit group of return visitors. The latter stay at any of the dozens of private homes for rent or check into the Peponi Hotel, located on a 12-mile strip of virgin beach in Shela, a 20-minute walk or a dhow ride north of Lamu town. Full of international eccentrics, villagers, and Nairobi expats, the hotel’s restaurant and bar—the island’s social nerve center since 1967—hum with life and color. On Lamu’s sister island, Manda, the exclusive, 16-cottage Manda Bay Resort caters to guests who fish justly famed Manda Bay for its marlins, tunas, and other sport fish.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 65
