Colorful Bo-Kaap is a prime destination for an authentic Cape Malay meal.
BOULDERS BEACH AND CAPE OF GOOD HOPE—More than 3,000 penguins rule the relatively warm waters of Boulders Beach and neighboring Foxy Beach, which are among the few places on earth where they occupy the mainland rather than an island. The distinctive black-and-white African penguins whoop and surf the waves, waddling comically ashore to nest or to sun themselves. They obliviously share their space with locals toting picnic baskets and with curious out-of-towners, and as long as you don’t get too close, you can observe their behavior from a number of wooden walkways. February to May is the breeding season, when they lay and cover their eggs on the beach. Continue south along the Cape Peninsula to its southernmost point, the Cape of Good Hope. The rugged and windswept Cape Point has great hiking paths, exotic wildlife, deserted beaches, and a bottom-of-the-world feeling in knowing there is nothing between you and Antarctica. BOULDERS BEACH: 26 miles/42 km south of Cape Town. CAPE POINT: 65 miles/105 km south of Cape Town.
DISTRICT SIX MUSEUM—This “living memorial” tells the disturbing story of the forced displacement of 60,000 nonwhites living in a multicultural inner-city neighborhood from the late ’60s through the early ’80s. The Sixth Municipal District of Cape Town in 1867 began as a mixed community of freed slaves, merchants, artisans, laborers, and immigrants of all races—something not tolerated by the apartheid government. The museum presents residents’ personal experiences from the time when the area was declared a White Group Area until all of it had been razed and everyone relocated to remote “townships” in what is now known as the Cape Flats (see Khayelitsha; p. 416). Opened in 1994, this compelling museum is also a meeting place and community center for those who were part of this very recent history. INFO: Tel 27/21-466-7200; www.districtsix.co.za.
GOLD OF AFRICA MUSEUM—Most of South Africa’s gold originates from the gold mines near Johannesburg, 1,000 miles away. Yet here in the Gold of Africa Museum is where you’ll find the world’s finest assemblage of African gold art, craft, and jewelry, many pieces dating to the 19th century. It is housed in the painstakingly restored 18th-century Martin Melck house. The Gold Restaurant serves a wonderful fusion of African and Cape Malay–style foods, and at the Goldsmith’s Studio workshop, it’s fun to take your own precious stones, or even start from scratch, to create your instant heirloom at a jewelry-making course. INFO: Tel 27/21-405-1540; www.goldofafrica.com.
KHAYELITSHA—Visitors generally see this sprawling shantytown, with close to 1 million residents and unending shacks lining miles and miles of open road lit by floodlights, from the outside. A first impression gives no clue to the vibrant culture within. The entrepreneurial energy among residents (relocated here from nonwhite suburbs) is inspiring; a knowledgeable local guide is a must and can introduce you to the small businesses, craft centers, schools, shebeens (local bars), and eateries, where most visitors are greeted with a smile. The sense of community in this maze of shacks (where, by some miracle, the postman actually knows the addresses) is palpable. Despite the poverty, you’ll leave feeling a sense of hope for the future generation. WHERE: N2 Highway on the Cape Flats, outskirts of Cape Town. HOW: Go2Africa is a reputable company offering township tours. Tel 27/21-481-4900; in the U.S., 888-818-8821; www.go2africa.com. Cost: from $65.
KIRSTENBOSCH NATIONAL BOTANICAL GARDENS—Kirstenbosch, on the eastern slope of Table Mountain, was one of the first botanical gardens ever founded to preserve a country’s flora. Miles of walking trails wind through 89 acres of rolling lawns and streams, with gorgeous displays of South Africa’s indigenous plants, such as fynbos, proteas, and cycads. On summer Sunday evenings from November to April, Capetonians unpack their picnic baskets on the carpets of green lawn and settle in for wonderful outdoor concerts. INFO: Tel 27/21-799-8783; www.sanbi.org.
ROBBEN ISLAND—Cape Town is best viewed from the 30-minute ferry on the way to Robben Island, known today as the maximum-security prison where former president Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years of incarceration (1964–1982) and where he secretly wrote his book Long Walk to Freedom. The last prisoner left in 1996, and the small island is now a museum. Some of the guides are former political prisoners from the troubled apartheid years and contemporaries of Mandela, and they bring to life the three centuries that the island has stood as a place of isolation and banishment. A boardwalk leads to a beach full of African penguins. INFO: Tel 27/21-413-4220; www.robben-island.org.za.
TABLE MOUNTAIN—The sweeping panorama from Table Mountain (more than 3,500 feet high and visible from 40 miles out at sea) captures the mountains, city, ocean, and stretches of unspoiled wilderness. A cable car takes just five minutes to reach the flat summit that gave the landmark mountain its name. You can also make the journey via a 2- to 3-hour hike, nicest between September and March when the slopes are ablaze with blooms, including more than 100 species of iris. Most of the year sees the mountain covered by a “tablecloth” of clouds at some point during the day. INFO: Tel 27/21-424-8181; www.tablemountain.net.
The cable car to Table Mountain’s summit offers great views of Lion’s Head, another mountain.
VICTORIA AND ALFRED WATERFRONT—Cape Town’s commercial heart beats at the historic V&A Waterfront (or just “the Waterfront” to Capetonians), set on the shores of a bustling harbor. It’s lined with dozens of shops, eateries of all kinds, an aquarium, and a few choice hotels. It buzzes with buskers, musicians, and lots of boat traffic, including the water taxis ferrying folks from one bar to another in the summer months and boats going to Robben Island (see previous page). New Year’s Eve in Cape Town is a gala affair, and the Waterfront hosts the biggest of all the parties with fireworks, music, international DJs, dancing, and general revelry. INFO: Tel 27/21-408-7600; www.waterfront.co.za.
WHERE TO STAY
CAPE GRACE HOTEL—On its own private quay tucked between the working harbor of the V&A Waterfront and the serenity of an international yacht marina, the Cape Grace is a small-scale hotel that consistently wins recognition as one of the best in Africa. Not only are the service and attention to detail impeccable, but its 120 spacious and bright rooms enjoy views of the harbor, Table Mountain, or both. The Bascule Whisky, Wine and Cocktail Bar offers the largest collection of whiskey in the Southern Hemisphere. The luxury Spirit of the Cape yacht is available for the exclusive use of Cape Grace guests. INFO: Tel 27/21-410-7100; www.capegrace.com. Cost: from $650 (off-peak), from $775 (peak).
ELLERMAN HOUSE—South Africa’s finest boutique hotel sits high on a hill in Bantry Bay, a 10-minute drive from the Waterfront. Built in 1912 as the private home of a British shipping magnate, its ambience is akin to that of a French Riviera hideaway. It has nine rooms in the House and an additional five in the Villa, all decorated with paintings by a who’s who of prominent South African artists. Exceptional hospitality is delivered in a dramatic setting, which offers awe-inspiring views of Robben Island and the South Atlantic. INFO: Tel 27/21-430-3200; in the U.S., 800-735-2478; www.ellerman.co.za. Cost: from $850 (off-peak), from $1,000 (peak).
MANDELA RHODES PLACE—In the central business district, opposite the legendary St. George’s Cathedral on Wale Street, is the modern Mandela Rhodes Place, an all-suite hotel offering apartments ranging from studios to two-bedrooms. Request rooms on the higher floors for magnificent views of the Waterfront and Table Mountain. The Azura Restaurant offers poolside or inside dining with expansive views of the city and South African specialties that range from the traditional braai (barbecue) to queen prawns and crayfish. INFO: Tel 27/31-310-6900 or 27/21-481-4000; www.mandelarhodesplace.co.za. Cost: studio apartments from $175 (off-peak), from $375 (peak); dinner $40.
MOUNT NELSON HOTEL—Ever since it opened its doors in 1899, this pink stucco grande dame has been welcoming Cape Town’s most illustrious and colorful visitors, ranging from Arthur Conan Doyle and Winston Churchill to Oprah Winfrey and the Dalai Lama. Mount Nelson is the hub around which the city’s social life traditionally revolves, and if
you partake of only one afternoon tea in the country, have it here. Served indoors or on the flower-filled veranda, tea is a bacchanalia of pastries, cakes, and dainty nibbles. The English ambience remains delightfully intact. Even though the hotel isn’t oceanfront, it makes up for it with 6 acres of luxuriant gardens full of rose beds and hibiscus trees in the shadow of Table Mountain. INFO: Tel 27/21-231-000; www.mountnelson.co.za. Cost: “superior” doubles from $425 (off-peak), from $550 (peak); tea $30.
ONE&ONLY CAPE TOWN—In the heart of the V&A Waterfront, this urban chic resort boasts some of the largest rooms and suites in the city, all with views of Table Mountain, the harbor, or waterways, and accented with ethnic textiles and contemporary South African art. Nobu, the legendary Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s first restaurant in Africa, is here, making this an epicure’s delight as well. You won’t find corned beef sandwiches at Reuben’s, but you will get excellent bistro dishes and regional interpretations from local celebrity chef Reuben Riffel. INFO: Tel 27/21-431-5888; www.oneandonlycapetown.com. Cost: from $625 (off-peak), from $725 (peak) in the Marina Rise tower; dinner at Nobu $70, Reuben’s $55.
African penguins have called Boulders Beach home since they established a colony here in 1982.
EATING AND DRINKING
AUBERGINE—Once the fashionable 19th-century home of South Africa’s first chief justice of the Cape, Sir John Wylde, Aubergine extends his legacy. Wylde’s flamboyant lifestyle was the talk of the town, as were his elegant parties. Aubergine’s interior has been renovated with flair (from bamboo ceilings to mismatched yellowwood tables) in a contemporary style that complements the old building’s elegance. Just minutes from the V&A Waterfront and a couple of blocks from the Mount Nelson Hotel, the lush terrace is the perfect setting for aperitifs before dinner, which features chef Harald Bresselschmidt’s innovative cuisine. Specializing in seafood, meat, and game, he also offers excellent vegetarian dishes. INFO: Tel 27/21-465-4909; www.aubergine.co.za. Cost: dinner $60.
CAVEAU—A favorite choice of Capetonians, Caveau offers several hundred South African wines by the glass, paired with local tapas-style small plates. Regulars come back for the cheese and meat platter, served on a wooden board with biltong (South African jerky), prosciutto, artisanal cheeses, and a melon or fig preserve. Dinner is a heartier and sometimes exotic affair with a chalkboard menu that changes frequently—you might find Eland (a type of antelope) Wellington or ostrich rubbed with dukkah (an Egyptian blend of nuts and spices). Caveau readily shares its recipes, and if you love the local wine you tasted and can’t find a bottle to take home with you, the staff is happy to source it for you. INFO: Tel 27/21-422-1367; www.caveau.co.za. Cost: dinner $60.
LA COLOMBE—Fifteen minutes from Cape Town’s city center, Constantia Uitsig Farm and Winery is home to three fine restaurants with La Colombe consistently voted the city’s best. The property was once a portion of governor Simon van der Stel’s original land grant, Groot Constantia (see p. 423). In this beautiful valley of vines, chef Luke Dale-Roberts has made his mark: Provence-inspired South African cuisine with an exciting Asian influence. Choose from the à la carte blackboard menu or spoil yourself with a six-course seasonal “gourmand menu.” A lighter lunch or dinner is the draw at the more casual River Café, whose array of tapas keeps it a perennial favorite. INFO: Tel 27/21-794-2390; www.constantia-uitsig.com. Cost: gourmand menu $90; lunch at River Café $25.
DIAS TAVERN—Named after the 17th-century Portuguese explorer Bartholomeu Dias, the informal tavern (picture plastic chairs and vintage beer posters) is an old-time favorite. Seafood lovers come for the daily catch and prawns peri-peri (prepared with a hot chili that South Africans love); the carnivorous come for the charcoal-grilled steak, or espetada, traditionally braaied (barbecued) rump steak on a skewer. Everyone comes for the perfectly done chips (fries). Friday and Saturday nights feature loud, live, golden-oldie music; lunchtime and weeknights offer a less frenetic atmosphere. You’ll get stunning views of Table Mountain no matter when you come. INFO: Tel 27/21-465-7547. Cost: $25.
A Confluence of Habitats
PHINDA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE
KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
This relatively new private reserve in northern Zululand is exceptional not only for the seven African ecosystems that meet within its 56,800 acres, but for its diverse approach to safaris. Morning and night game drives that take you to elephants, leopards, and cheetahs are just the beginning. Boat and canoe trips provide close-up looks at the birdlife, crocs, and hippos. Bushwalks allow you to track the elusive black rhino by foot. Then there is the nearby Indian Ocean, offering big-game fishing, diving in the world’s southernmost reefs (off the deserted coast of Maputaland), and, on the coast, the highest vegetated sand dunes in the world.
The astounding biodiversity is the big draw here, but the accommodations are equally impressive. The Mountain Lodge and its 25 split-level suites with private plunge pools sit atop a hill with endless views, taking in the Lebombo Mountains and Maputaland coastal range. Another option, the contemporary Forest Lodge, is a masterpiece of 16 glass-walled cabins built around twisted trees and set on stilts in a rare sand forest. The Zen-like design is deliberately spare, allowing the outdoors in. You can relax in bed while birds sing and butterflies flutter outside your floor-to-ceiling windows.
Lions and other big cats are part of the menagerie at Phinda, meaning “the return” in Zulu.
WHERE: 185 miles/300 km north of Durban on the Indian Ocean. HOW: Johannesburg-based &Beyond can make arrangements. Tel 27/11-809-4314; in the U.S., 888-882-3742; www.phinda.com. COST: Mountain Lodge and Forest Lodge from $480 per person, all-inclusive (off-peak), from $830 (peak). BEST TIME: Oct–Feb to combine a safari with a warm weather beach vacation.
A Journey to Middle Earth
THE DRAKENSBERG MOUNTAINS
KwaZulu-Natal and Mpumalanga, South Africa
Few places in the world match the Drakensberg (“Dragon’s Mountain” in Afrikaans) for physical beauty; the range is believed to have inspired the phantasmagorical setting for the Lord of the Rings cycle, written by South African–born J.R.R. Tolkien. The Zulu call it uKhahlamba, “Barrier of Spears.” These are South Africa’s highest mountains, and their narrow passes, grassy valleys connecting 11,000-foot peaks, rivers, forests, and waterfalls (the Tugela Fall is the second highest on the planet) make up a dramatic landscape. The region also offers opportunities for hiking, horseback riding, bird-watching, golfing, fishing, and exploring hundreds of sites where ancient rock art dates back 3,000 years.
The Drakensbergs form a massive barrier separating the KwaZulu-Natal region in the east from Lesotho to the southwest. The only road linking them is a former donkey trail through the Sani Pass, which is the third-highest pass in the world (at more than 9,000 feet) and is accessible only by four-wheel drive vehicle.
Just outside of the small town of Winterton in central Drakensberg is the Drakensberg Boys Choir School, where on most Wednesday afternoons the boys perform for visitors. Their singing of classical pieces rivals that of the Vienna Boys Choir, but they also perform jazz, pop, and traditional African folk songs, all enthusiastically infused with tribal rhythms.
It’s hard to imagine the tranquil mountains that surround Winterton as bloody battlefields, but in the late 19th century they were the scene of a brutal war between the British, Voortrekkers (Boers), and Zulus. The spectacular Fugitives’ Drift property, a Natural Heritage Site in KwaZulu-Natal, overlooks the Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift (sites of two battles in 1879), and is named after a river crossing where British forces were defeated. Fugitives’ Drift Lodge, a collection of eight luxurious suites and a private guesthouse, was built by local storyteller David Rattray and his wife, Nicky, who share the region’s conflict-filled history through thought-provoking tours led by some of the finest guides in Zululand.
On the Mpumalanga side of the mountains lies the magnificent Blyde River Canyon, or Motlatse Canyon, a 15-mile-long gorge as deep as 2,630 feet; it is, by some
measures, the third largest in the world. The Blyde River meets the Treur River at Bourke’s Luck Potholes, cylindrical, cliff-side holes up to 20 feet deep formed by river erosion. You can take in the spellbinding vistas from God’s Window, the canyon’s unsurpassed lookout point, though nothing beats the bird’s-eye view offered by a chartered, jet-powered helicopter that swoops over the dramatic rock formations of the canyon and through valleys bursting with vegetation and color. After hovering over river rapids and cascading waterfalls, it lands on a remote mountaintop in an otherwise unreachable grassy clearing where lunch with a view is served.
Afterward, you’ll want to check into Cybele Forest Lodge and Health Spa and relax in one of its exquisite private suites or cottages. Each boasts cozy fireplaces and a garden, and some feature private swimming pools.
WHERE: Fugitives’ Drift, in the KwaZulu-Natal, is 161 miles/259 km north of Durban. Cybele Forest Lodge, in Mpumalanga, is 261 miles/420 km east of Johannesburg. HOW: Passage to Africa specializes in custom itineraries. Tel 27/15-793-0811; www.passagetoafrica.com. FUGITIVES’ DRIFT: Tel 27/34-642-1843; www.fugitivesdrift.com. Cost: from $290 per person, inclusive (off-peak), from $420 (peak). CYBELE FOREST LODGE: Tel 27/13-764-9500; www.cybele.co.za. Cost: from $200 (off-peak), from $275 (peak) per person. DRAKENSBERG BOYS CHOIR: Tel 27/36-468-1012; www.dbchoir.info. BEST TIMES: Sep–Oct and Mar–Apr to avoid rainy summers and chilly winter nights.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 67
