When visiting the tiny, picturesque island of Miyajima in the Seto Inland Sea, make sure you take the half-hour ferry ride from Hiroshima during high tide to view the majestic orange gate (torii) in the bay, when it appears to be floating on water. One of Japan’s most recognizable symbols, the current version of the gate (which was originally erected in 1168) dates to 1875. It stands at the entrance to the wooden Itsukushima Shrine, dedicated to the Shinto god of the moon, and is the main attraction on this 12-square-mile island rich with natural beauty and romance.
After the day-trippers return to the mainland, stay at the well-known 150-year-old Iwaso Ryokan to see the gate and shrine illuminated at night. Guests receive the same treatment as the Japanese royal family, who head up a long list of illustrious visitors. A few separate, exquisitely decorated private cottages are worth the splurge, and if there’s no room at the inn, at least stay for their rightly praised 10-course dinner.
WHERE: 537 miles/864 km southwest of Tokyo on the Seto Inland Sea. VISITOR INFO: www.hcvb.city.hiroshima.jp. IWASO RYOKAN: Tel 81/829-44-2233; www.iwaso.com. Cost: from $425, inclusive; dinner $80. BEST TIMES: Aug 6 for bombing anniversary, when white doves are released; late Mar–Apr for cherry blossoms; Oct–early Nov for autumn foliage on Miyajima island.
Gorgeous Gardens, Geisha, and the Arts in a Castle Town
KANAZAWA
Ishikawa, Honshu, Japan
Facing the Sea of Japan coast, with the lofty peaks of the Japanese Alps behind it, Kanazawa was once a great castle town, the heart of a prime rice-growing area ruled by the powerful Maeda family. One of the few major Japanese cities that escaped the World War II air raids, its historic center is rich with the culture and architecture of Old Japan.
Kanazawa’s unchallenged main attraction is Kenroku-en, Japan’s largest garden, considered to be one of its three most beautiful: 25 acres of trees, ponds, footpaths, waterfalls, and flowers, plus a teahouse and a 19th-century villa. The gardens were begun in 1676 by the feudal lord living in the adjacent Kanazawa Palace (you can visit a replica of the earlier castle destroyed by fire). Pick up a bento (box lunch) at the 100-year-old Miyoshian or stay for tea and sweets.
The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art catapults you back into the present. Designed by SANAA, the Tokyo-based architectural firm that also designed the New Museum of Contemporary Art in New York City, the low-slung circular building of glass walls showcases permanent exhibits, including James Turrell’s Blue Planet Sky and Leandro Erlich’s Swimming Pool.
The Higashi-Chaya district of wooden-latticed teahouses is one of several areas in the city where geisha are trained in the performing arts; the city’s tourist offices will tell you when public performances are scheduled. The former samurai quarter of Nagamachi reveals flowing canals, twisted cobblestone lanes, and old houses of mud walls and tiled roofs.
Kanazawa means “Marsh of Gold,” and the town produces about 90 percent of Japan’s gold leaf (it supplied the gold leaf that covers Kyoto’s Golden Pavilion; see p. 510)—it is found on local crafts and even as flakes in the local tea (said to help rheumatism). The Yasue Gold Leaf Museum houses fine examples of Buddhist altars, ceramics, and screens. Other local arts and crafts, perfected over the last 500 years, include handmade silks, potteries, and lacquerware: These are showcased in the Museum for Traditional Products and Crafts and fill gift stores across the city.
Food is a key part of the Kanazawa experience. The principal component of the local cuisine, kaga ryori, is fresh fish, found in small sushi bars in and around the lively fish market, Omicho Ichiba, a mini-version of the one you’ll find in Tokyo.
Kenroku-en garden has been open to the public since 1871.
WHERE: 268 miles/431 km north of Kyoto. VISITOR INFO: www.kanazawa-tourism.com. WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Nikko Kanazawa is a modern high-rise that still manages to feel personal. Tel 81/76-234-1111; in the U.S., 800-645-5687; www.jalhotels.com. Cost: from $150. BEST TIMES: Apr for cherry blossoms; Aug–Sep for clearest weather.
“Tokyo may be the capital of Japan but Kyoto is its heart and soul.”—JULIET WINTERS CARPENTER
KYOTO
Honshu, Japan
To stroll through Kyoto is to travel through 11 centuries of Japan’s history. Once the home of the imperial court, the city was also a center of Japanese religion, aesthetics, music, theater, and dance, reaching its height as a center for crafts during the Muromachi Period (1334–1568). Spared by Allied bombing during World War II, the city is said to hold 20 percent of all Japan’s national treasures, including more than 1,700 Buddhist temples and 300 Shinto shrines, all dispersed (often hidden) amid its modern cityscape. Kyoto’s beauty can sometimes be elusive, but thoughtful visitors can still glimpse the Japan of the past in its temples and gardens, while its modern side offers a sophisticated mix of tradition and contemporary innovation.
TEMPLES AND TOP ATTRACTIONS
FUSHIMI INARI—One of Kyoto’s greatest sights is the 10,000 reddish orange torii (gates) of the taisha (shrine) of Inari, in the Fushimi area of Kyoto. Forming a 2.5-mile tunnel up the wooded mountainside, the lacquered torii are donated by Japanese businesses, their names written in black lettering on each gate, asking Inari—the god of rice, sake, and prosperity—for a blessing. This is the largest and most famous shrine dedicated to Inari and the head shrine of more than 40,000 found nationwide. A 2- to 3-hour walk up to Mount Inari rewards you with magnificent views of Kyoto, and there are plenty of stops along the way for inarizushi (sushi rice in a pocket of fried tofu) and a cup of tea. INFO: Tel 81/75-6417-331; www.inari.jp.
KINKAKU-JI AND GINKAKU-JI—Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa commissioned the 14th-century Kinkaku-ji (Temple of the Golden Pavilion) as his retirement home, intending its two top floors to be sheathed in gold leaf, though he got no farther than the ceiling of the third floor in his lifetime. After his death, his son converted the building into a Zen temple in accordance with his father’s wishes. The temple was torched by a disgruntled monk in 1950 and rebuilt to its original specifications by 1955; by 1987, the gold-leaf coating finally extended to the top two floors. Kinkaku-ji is highly revered as a shariden, a site housing relics of the Buddha, and is probably the most photographed structure in Kyoto.
On the opposite side of town, the shogun’s grandson, also named Ashikaga Yoshimasa, commissioned the two-story, pagoda-roofed Ginkaku-ji (Temple of the Silver Pavilion) in the 1470s in homage to his grandfather’s Kinkaku-ji, with plans to cover it in silver leaf. He too died before his plan could be realized, and Ginkaku-ji took over 30 years to complete. Formerly part of a much larger villa, it stands surrounded by a reflecting pool and gardens designed by a master landscape architect for meditative strolling. The mile-long Philosopher’s Path outside its gate follows a narrow canal that is particularly beautiful when the cherry trees that line its banks are in full bloom. KINKAKU-JI: Tel 81/75-461-0013; www.shokoku-ji.or.jp/english/. GINKAKU-JI: Tel 81/75-771-5725; www.shokoku-ji.or.jp/english/.
Torii (gates) line the Fushimi Inari shrine, which dates to the 8th century, when worshippers were more likely to pray for a good rice harvest than business prosperity.
KIYOMIZU-DERA—One of the most celebrated temples of Japan, Kiyomizu-dera, the Pure Water Temple, was founded in 780 and was associated with the Hosso sect of Buddhism, one of the oldest in Japan. Its present buildings were constructed in 1633 without a single nail; the main hall’s large, wooden terrace juts out over the valley, offering beautiful views of the city. Below, three streams tumble into a pond, creating the Otowa (Sound of Feathers) waterfall, where you can drink the springwater, said to have wish-granting powers. The complex houses several shrines; the Jishu Shrine is dedicated to the deity of love and attracts young men and women who make offerings and buy lucky charms to help find their life partners. INFO: Tel 81/75-551-1234; www.kiyomizudera.or.jp.
NIJO-JO—Completed in 1626 by Ieyasu, the first Tokugawa shogun of a united Japan, Nijo Castle is a perfect example of the paranoia of the era. The castle is surro
unded by a moat and stone walls, and has secret rooms and corridors where hidden samurai guards could keep watch. The castle, built almost entirely of Japanese cypress, was built with ingenious “nightingale” floors that “sing” when walked upon. Extensive gardens designed by the renowned gardener Kobori Enshu originally had no trees, as falling leaves symbolized the transience of life to the shogun and his samurai. INFO: Tel 81/75-841-0096.
RYOAN-JI—A lovely half-hour walk from Kinkaku-ji leads to the Ryoan Temple, whose small, simple, 500-year-old garden of raked white gravel and 15 rocks arranged in three groupings has become a world-recognized symbol of Zen wisdom. In Buddhism, the number 15 denotes “completeness” or “enlightenment.” At Ryoan-ji, regardless of where you stand, only 14 of the 15 rocks can be seen at any given time—interpreted by some to mean that true completion is never possible. The garden’s designer remains a mystery, the rock arrangement’s meaning a riddle. It is one of Japan’s most famous gardens, attracting large crowds daily; best to visit very early in the morning for a moment of quiet contemplation. INFO: Tel 81/75-463-2216; www.ryoanji.jp.
SAIHO-JI—Also referred to as Kokedera (Moss Temple), the Zen Buddhist Temple of Saiho was re-created in 1339 by priest Muso Soseki on the site of an earlier temple and is now known for its more than 120 varieties of moss. Soseki designed the two-tiered dry gardens around a pond in the shape of the Chinese character for heart or mind; then Mother Nature took over and draped the gardens in a soft moss blanket in hues of gold and green. Visitors must write to the temple in advance to gain admission; once permission is granted, an entrance fee of $37 (the highest in Kyoto) is expected on arrival. Visitors take part in a 2-hour Buddhist ceremony, chanting sutras with the monks and practicing Japanese characters (calligraphy), before enjoying the dark, soothing Zen gardens. INFO: Tel 81/75-391-3631. Mailing address: 56 Matsuo-Jingatani-cho, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto.
SANJUSANGENDO—Behind a simple and austere exterior, Sanjusangendo (known locally as Rengeo-in) is a 400-foot-long hall (the longest wooden structure in Japan), the remarkable repository of 1,001 standing statues of Bodhisattva Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. View row upon row of life-size statues beautifully carved from Japanese cypress and covered in gold leaf: Each statue has 40 arms and the power to save 25 worlds. They surround one seated Kannon, joining the 28 deities who protect the universe. Many of the statues date back to the 12th century, and the structure dates from 1266. INFO: Tel 81/75-525-0033; http://sanjusangendo.jp.
TENRYU-JI—The 14th-century Tenryu-ji (Temple of the Heavenly Dragon) is the first ranked of the Kyoto Gozan or Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto (the others are Shokoku-ji, Kennin-ji, Tofuku-ji, and Manju-ji), dedicated to the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism. Rinzai focuses on riddles that lack a rational answer, forcing the mind to ponder insoluble problems. Nestled in tranquil surroundings on the western edge of the suburb of Arashiyama, Tenryu-ji offers fine Zen gardens, including a strolling garden and Japan’s oldest example of shakkei, or borrowed scenery, which incorporates distant landmarks into the garden’s design. Don’t miss the dragon painting on the ceiling of the lecture hall where monks meditate. A simple but artful lunch of Zen cuisine is served for visitors at Shigetsu, within the temple grounds, but must be reserved in advance. INFO: Tel 81/75-881-1235; www.tenryuji.org.
OTHER MUST-DOS
GION DISTRICT—Traditional Kyoto town houses, with their red-and-white paper lanterns, are iconic within the entertainment quarter of Gion, where the geisha (gei,“art,” plus sha,“person”) live and work. Geisha (or Geiko, as they are called locally) are women who are trained in traditional music and dance and entertain at private, usually all-male, parties. Gion was originally developed to accommodate travelers and visitors to the Yasaka Shrine, then evolved into the most famous geisha district in all Japan; it remains very exclusive but is more welcoming to visitors than in the past. Geisha and young apprentices called maiko dressed in exquisite kimonos can still be seen in the evenings as they travel between their various engagements at exclusive ochaya (teahouses and restaurants), particularly those on Hanami-koji Street. Another integral part of Gion’s entertainment culture is the Minami-za Kabuki Theater, which was established in the 17th century, making it Japan’s oldest theater. The current structure, which dates from 1929, hosts regular performances as well as the yearly December Kaomise festival, a showcase of Kabuki’s most celebrated performers. INFO: Tel 81/75-561-1155.
NISHIKI-KOJI—Steeped in culture and history, Nishiki Market (known as “Kyoto’s kitchen”) is a narrow, covered street lined with more than 100 shops. Some of the fishmongers, fresh-produce grocers, and pickle purveyors have been here for generations (and often live directly over their shops) and are joined by newer tofu doughnut sellers and green-tea ice-cream vendors. You can eat on the run or savor samples along the way, enjoying a wonderful glimpse into Kyoto’s food culture. HOW: For customized Kyoto food tours, contact Michi Travel. Tel 81/352-13-5040; www.michitravel.com.
VISIT WITH A GEISHA—Thanks to the development of international tourism in Kyoto, it is now far easier than it used to be to experience the traditional entertainment of a geisha party in one of Kyoto’s five hanamachi (geisha entertainment districts). Kyoto Sights and Nights organizes private engagements with geisha and maiko, including dinner and musical entertainment. This is an unusual and enlightening chance to speak directly with these traditional entertainers about their daily life and training in the arts. Kyoto Sights and Nights also runs afternoon walking lectures through the hanamachi, where you can learn more about their intriguing history and customs. KYOTO SIGHTS AND NIGHTS: Tel 81/905-169-1654; www.kyotosightsandnights.com.
Gion’s apprentice geisha are known as maiko.
FESTIVALS (MATSURI)
CHERRY BLOSSOMS—From late March until early April, tens of millions of Japanese flock to the parks and temple gardens across the country in pursuit of hanami, or cherry blossom viewing (see p. 517). Maruyama Park, in eastern Kyoto, the Gosho (Imperial Palace), in the center, and Arashiyama, in the west, are three of the city’s main viewing areas, but the perennial favorite is the cherry tree-lined canalside Philosopher’s Path that begins near Ginkaku-ji (see p. 510). Visit early on weekdays for a relatively crowd-free mile-long stroll beneath a gentle flurry of pink and white petals.
JIDAI FESTIVAL—Proud Kyotoites by the thousands participate in the Jidai Matsuri, or Festival of the Ages, one of the city’s newest events (it started just over a century ago and is held annually on October 22), to commemorate the founding of Kyoto. A theatrical procession in costumes from the dynasties of the 8th through the 19th centuries snakes its way through town, beginning at the Imperial Palace and ending at the Heian Shrine.
AOI FESTIVAL—The cherry blossoms are gone when the Aoi Matsuri, or Hollyhock Festival, floats through town on May 15, but spring will still be at its loveliest as hundreds of participants wearing the costumes of imperial courtiers parade to the Shimogamo and Kamigamo shrines to pray for the city’s prosperity. The annual Aoi dates back to the 6th century and is believed to be the world’s oldest surviving festival.
GION FESTIVAL—On July 17, make way for 32 huge wooden floats that are part of the grand parade of the popular Gion Matsuri, a procession that asks for the protection of Kyoto. First held in the 9th century as a ritual purification to ward off plague in the humid summer months, it has grown into one of the most famous festivals in Japan. The three nights leading up to the grand parade are especially exciting; the streets of central Kyoto are lined with food stalls and packed with wandering locals wearing yukata (summer kimonos) and fanning themselves with traditional uchiwa (paper fans).
WHERE TO STAY
GRANVIA—If traveling to and from Kyoto by train, the Granvia is conveniently located—as well as exceptionally comfortable. Its location high above the futuristic JR station means that most of the stylishly equipped 535 rooms offer excellent city views, and despite its size, service is personal and attentive. The spacious rooms and pub
lic areas are all adorned with the work of Kyoto artists. There are over a dozen in-house restaurants and bars to choose from, including a small branch of the highly esteemed Kitcho (see next page). INFO: Tel 81/75-344-8888; www.granvia-kyoto.co.jp. Cost: from $280.
HYATT REGENCY KYOTO—Located in the Higashiyama Shichijo district, just steps away from the Sanjusangendo Temple and the Kyoto National Museum, this is one of the finest of the city’s Western-style modern hotels. The elegant lobby leads to 189 comfortable rooms that are stylishly decorated using natural colors, white oak, and kimono fabrics. The spacious bathrooms offer separate deep soaking bathtubs and excellent Japanese-style showers, and the Riraku Spa has an extensive menu of traditional Japanese and Asian therapies. Touzan Restaurant, modeled after a traditional-style Kyoto house with views of the hotel’s rock garden, is popular with both locals and visitors and serves charcoal-grilled specials as well as a large selection of sushi and sake. INFO: Tel 81/75-541-1234; in the U.S., 800-233-1234; www.kyoto.regency.hyatt.com. Cost: from $450 (off-peak), from $560 (peak); dinner at Touzan, fixed menu $65.
HOTEL MUME—Small and precious, Mume is located behind a big red door on a quiet street lined with antiques galleries in the geisha entertainment district of Gion. Seven rooms are tastefully decorated with antique Asian furniture and accented with Kyoto artifacts and French and Italian fabrics. Mume provides a delightfully tranquil experience, with an exceptional staff who are charmingly attentive and sensitive to guests’ needs. The hotel’s salon faces the Shirakawa canal and has a gorgeous view of cherry blossoms in the spring. Enjoy the view with a complimentary cappuccino or over cocktails during the nightly happy hour. INFO: Tel 81/75-525-8787; www.hotelmume.jp. Cost: from $240.
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