With Ionic columns on the bottom level and Corinthian on the top, Celsus Library is known for its well-preserved façade.
WHERE: 42 miles/67 km south of Izmir. EPHESUS MUSEUM AND HOUSE OF THE VIRGIN MARY: Tel 90/232-892-6010; www.ephesus.us. TAŞ OTEL: Tel 90/232-716-7772; www.tasotel.com. Cost: from $130 (off-peak), from $240 (peak). BEST TIMES: Apr–Jun and Oct–Dec offer cooler weather for sightseeing; early May for Ephesus Festival of Culture and Art.
“If the earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital.”—NAPOLEON BONAPARTE
ISTANBUL
Turkey
Straddling Europe and Asia, the pulsating metropolis of Istanbul has captured visitors’ imaginations for centuries with its dazzling legacy of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. Today’s Istanbul offers the traveler a rich array of contemporary and historical museums, world-class restaurants, and glamorous hotels—a sensory overload where East meets West at every turn. Set against the backdrop of hills, water, and the delicate spires of minarets, this enchanting and complicated place radiates a unique energy.
TOP ATTRACTIONS
HAGIA SOPHIA—The massive dome and four elegant minarets of the Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya, Church of Holy Wisdom) elegantly rise above the chaos of downtown Istanbul. Constantinople was nearing its zenith as the religious, commercial, and artistic center of the Holy Roman Empire when, in the 6th century, Emperor Justinian began work on the greatest church in ancient Byzantium. Hagia Sophia was later converted to a mosque by the Ottoman Turks and then was stripped of all religious significance under the Turkish Republic. But it will always be a spiritual oasis and remains the single finest structure to have survived late antiquity. A decade-long restoration project has been completed, leaving Hagia Sophia’s 30 million mosaic tiles to dazzle yet again. Step inside, into the mystical and haunting beauty of its dimly lit interior, one of the largest enclosed spaces in the world. INFO: Tel 90/212-522-0989; www.hagiasophia.com.
Completed in A.D. 537, Hagia Sophia was once the largest Christian church in the world.
TOPKAPI PALACE—Over a period of nearly four centuries, 25 sultans ruled the vast Ottoman Empire from the sprawling 175-acre Topkapi Palace complex, built on a formidable bluff overlooking the Bosporus, with tiled rooms and exhibits that still impress. The Treasury’s highlight is the famous Topkapi dagger, encrusted with enormous emeralds, but you’ll also see the 6,666 cut diamonds that adorn two 105-pound gold candelabra and the 86-karat Spoonmaker’s Diamond used in the coronation turban of Mehmet IV in 1648. For many visitors, the most exotic stop on the palace grounds is the 400-room Harem. The number of odalisques (female slaves) increased steadily with the decline of the Ottoman Empire, reaching more than 800 in the mid-19th century. INFO: Tel 90/212-512-0480; www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr.
THE GRAND BAZAAR—Everything imaginable can be purchased at Istanbul’s great Kapali Çarşi (literally, “covered bazaar”), a warren sprawling across 65 streets that houses some 4,000 shops, tiny cafés, and restaurants. Originally constructed by Mehmet the Conqueror in the 1450s, it has been substantially rebuilt over the years due to fires, though its original style of arched passageways and tiled fountains remains. One of the largest and oldest shopping malls in the world, it offers a sea of local curios and souvenirs: carpets, textiles, gold and jewelry, icons, leather, bronze, and copperware. Follow the locals to the less touristy outer corners. INFO: www.grandbazaaristanbul.org.
SPICE MARKET—Also called the Egyptian Market because many of its goods were once imported from there, this 17th-century sprawling complex is the place to buy lokum (Turkish delight), figs, spices, coffee, apricots stuffed with almonds, pistachios, and honey. The aroma will work up your appetite, so take lunch or tea at the century-old Pandeli restaurant, located upstairs just inside the main entrance to the bazaar. PANDELI RESTAURANT: Tel 90/212-527-3909; www.pandeli.com.tr. Cost: lunch $30.
CAĞALOĞLU HAMAM—To relax in this chaotic city, indulge in a traditional Turkish bath at Cağaloğlu Hamam. Close to the Hagia Sophia (see previous page), the Cağaloğlu was a gift to the city in 1741 from Sultan Mehmet I, and Kaiser Wilhelm II, Florence Nightingale, and Tony Curtis are all said to have visited its magnificent white marble–domed steam room. Public baths were founded by the Romans, who passed the tradition on to the Byzantines and they to the Turks. While the penalty for a man discovered in the women’s section used to be death, these days, you can escape with your life . . . but expect to find the men’s and women’s baths still separately housed. INFO: Tel 90/212-522-2424; www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr.
Operational since 1741, Caǧalǧlu Hamam preserves the Turkish bath experience of the Ottoman Empire.
KARIYE MUSEUM—This müzesi (museum), commonly known as the Chora Church, awes visitors with its dazzling 14th-century mosaics and frescoes depicting biblical scenes as well as with some of the most extensive holdings of Byzantine paintings in the world. Also known as the Holy Savior Church, it is tucked away near the city walls, where it was erected in the 5th century (most of the present structure dates from the 11th). Virtually all the magnificent interior decoration was completed in 1321 by Theodore Metochites, leader of the artistic and intellectual renaissance that transformed late Byzantium. It served as a mosque for four centuries before being converted into a museum. A number of historic Ottoman houses nearby form an evocative pocket of “Old Stamboul” in the shadow of the city’s ancient walls, which are several stories high and up to 20 feet thick. Continue to explore the past at airy Asitane, just steps away, whose unusual menu of ancient Ottoman dishes, once served at Topkapi Palace, reflects Greek, Persian, and North African influences. INFO: Tel 90/212-631-9241; www.choramuseum.com. ASITANE: Tel 90/212-635-7997; www.asitanerestaurant.com. Cost: lunch $30.
MOSQUE OF SULEIMAN THE MAGNIFICENT—Known for its graceful minarets and stained-glass windows, the Kanuni Sultan Süleymaniye Camii (Mosque of Sultan Suleiman the Lawgiver; Süleymaniye for short) is the largest and arguably most beautiful of all of the mosques in Istanbul. Crowning a hill with its looming, unmistakable silhouette, it is the city’s most identifiable landmark. Süleyman I, the greatest, richest, and most powerful of the Ottoman sultans, created this monument to himself between 1550 and 1557 and was buried here with his favorite wife, known in the West as Roxelana, “the Russian.” INFO: Tel 90/212-513-0093.
A CRUISE UP THE BOSPORUS STRAIT—There are several options for boating along the 20-mile Bosporus, or Bogaziçi, the narrow divide linking the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara and separating Europe from Asia. Special public ferries operate for locals and tourists, making fewer stops than the ordinary service; they depart from the Eminönü pier and take up to 6 hours for a round-trip. Frequent excursion boats run by the TurYol cooperative give a more limited glimpse of the shoreline and go only as far as Rumeli Hisari, a 15th-century fortress, with the round-trip lasting 1.5 hours. Private tour companies also offer boat trips, which often include lunch or snacks. Once aboard, sit back and enjoy the view; along the way you’ll pass grand palaces (watch for the Çirağan—now a hotel; see next page), upscale communities where graceful wooden Ottoman houses called yalis still line the water, castles, modern bridges, and forests. HOW: Turista Tourism Travel Agency offers Bosporus cruises. Tel 90/212-527-7085; www.turistatravel.com.
OTHER MUST-DOS
ISTIKLAL CADDESI—To visit the heart of modern Istanbul head to this pedestrian-only thoroughfare in the buzzy Beyoğlu neighborhood. Jostle your way around shoppers, a vintage tram, and nightclubbers to enjoy the atmosphere of 19th-century European-style architecture, trendy shops, period arcades full of restaurants, and the ornate Çiçek Pasaji (Flower Passage), on the corner of Istiklal Caddesi and Galatasaray Square. Follow the young and beautiful to 360, an 8th-floor aerie with intoxicating city views; it is the city’s most famous watering hole, open well into the wee hours. Skip the food and stick to the drinks and unmatched people-watching. 360: Tel 90/212-251-1042; www.360istanbul.com.
THE BLUE MOSQUE—The 17th-century Mosque
of Sultan Ahmet I is more commonly called the Blue Mosque, for the 20,000 shimmering handmade blue Iznik tiles creating intricate patterns across the upper reaches of the interior. When viewed from the outside, its six slender minarets (more than any other mosque in Istanbul) and cascading layers of domes and half domes vie with nearby Hagia Sophia (see p. 578) for architectural splendor. Unlike its neighbor, the building is a functioning mosque, so visiting hours are restricted during the five daily prayer times, particularly on Fridays.
THE PRINCES’ ISLANDS—For a trip back in time, take a 90-minute ferry ride to the Princes’ Islands, some 13 miles from Istanbul in the Sea of Marmara. The 19th-century getaway for the city’s wealthy Jews, Armenians, and Greeks provides a welcome break for today’s Istanbul residents from the bustle of their packed metropolis. Cars are banned, the wooden Ottoman and Victorian homes are genteel, and the air is clean. Heybeliada and Büyükada are the most rewarding of the four inhabited islands in the group. Stroll up the hilly lanes to admire the preserved architecture or hire a fayton, a horse-drawn carriage, before enjoying a leisurely lunch along the water. HOW: Frequent ferries depart daily from the Adalar Iskelesi, the “Islands Ferry Pier” at Kabataş.
THREE FINE ART MUSEUMS—In recent years Istanbul has made great strides in establishing world-class privately funded art museums—complete with trendy eateries—among the scores of more established specialist institutions. You’ll find the Istanbul Modern housed in a stylishly renovated warehouse overlooking the Bosporus. Its collection features mainly contemporary Turkish paintings, which are displayed in a vast, stark room. A few miles upriver, in the Emirgan district (also on the Bosporus), is the Sakip Sabanci Museum. Situated in a 1927 villa, the Sabanci houses the collection of one of Turkey’s leading industrialists, who once lived here. A new wing displays its top-rate collection of Ottoman calligraphy and paintings from Turkish and foreign artists working in Turkey in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Recharge at the popular Müzedechanga restaurant, within the garden. The Pera Museum is housed in the 19th-century Bristol Hotel, just a stone’s throw from the venerable Pera Palace Hotel (see p. 582). Its five floors include more than 300 Orientalist paintings, mainly by European artists of the 17th to 19th centuries. ISTANBUL MODERN: Tel 90/212-334-7300; www.istanbulmodern.org. SAKIP SABANCI MUSEUM: Tel 90/212-277-2200; http://muze.sabanciuniv.edu. Cost: lunch at Müzedechanga $30. PERA MUSEUM: Tel 90/212-334-9900; www.peramuzesi.org.tr.
WHERE TO STAY
ÇIRAĞAN PALACE KEMPINKSI—Built right on the Bosporus in the 19th century, the Çirağan Palace was home to some of the last Ottoman sultans and remains the summit of Turkish elegance. Opulent yet understated guest rooms and suites are located in a new wing; all have balconies and many have Bosporus views as does the dramatic pool at water’s edge. The Tuğra restaurant serves fare from bygone Constantinople in an exquisite Ottoman dining room, with French doors opening onto an alfresco terrace for dinner with a view of Asia. INFO: Tel 90/212-326-4646; www.kempinski.com/en/istanbul. Cost: from $485 (off-peak), from $675 (peak); dinner $90.
HOTEL EMPRESS ZOE—An expat American opened the first boutique hotel here in an attractive and charming locale right in the heart of the historic Sultanahmet district. Cobbled from several old Turkish houses, it centers around an enticing garden where breakfast is served, and there are views of the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace from the upper terrace lounge. The 25 rooms and suites are individually decorated with Turkish textiles and original paintings. Some have four-posters, while others feature private terraces and balconies. INFO: Tel 90/212-518-2504; www.emzoe.com. Cost: from $175.
FOUR SEASONS HOTELS—A century-old former prison is now home to one of Istanbul’s most exclusive hotels, the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet. Watchtowers and cells have been remodeled into 65 supremely elegant rooms and suites, set around a tranquil courtyard garden. The buttercup-yellow hotel is situated in the very heart of the historic Sultanahmet district, with Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and the Blue Mosque (see p. 578 and previous page) just steps away. The hotel’s refined Seasons restaurant is a perennial favorite with locals and expats, especially for its sumptuous Sunday brunch. A newer sister property, the Four Seasons Hotel at the Bosphorus, is located about 15 minutes away in a converted Ottoman Empire mansion with two modern wings on the waterfront, in the fashionable suburb of Beşiktaş. The sumptuous spa features a hammam, an outdoor pool close by the water’s edge, and service fit for a pasha (sultan). FOUR SEASONS HOTEL ISTANBUL AT SULTANAHMET: Tel 90/212-402-3000; www.fourseasons.com/istanbul. Cost: from $480 (off-peak), from $695 (peak); dinner at Seasons $60. FOUR SEASONS HOTEL AT THE BOSPHORUS: Tel 90/212-381-4000; www.fourseasons.com/bosphorus. Cost: from $510 (off-peak), from $960 (peak).
Sultans occupied Topkapi Palace for almost 400 years.
THE MARMARA TAKSIM—Rising 20 stories above central Taksim Square in central Beyoğlu, the Marmara is a landmark with expansive views of the Bosporus. A large outdoor pool and spacious sunbathing terrace are rare finds in Istanbul, and the rooftop Panorama restaurant and always popular Tepe Lounge offer breathtaking vistas of the city. The location is perfect for enjoying Istanbul’s busiest shopping street, pedestrianized Istiklal Caddesi (see previous page). INFO: Tel 90/212-334-8300; www.themarmarahotels.com/the-marmara-taksim. Cost: from $220 (off-peak), from $385 (peak); dinner at Panorama $65.
PARK HYATT MAÇKA PALAS—The Maçka, which occupies an Art Deco palace, is an impeccable fusion of old and new, surrounded by a wealth of upscale shopping and fine-dining options in Istanbul’s fashionable Şişli district. Blessed with a lovely outdoor pool, a full spa, and a fitness center, it has 90 handsomely appointed rooms, many with views across the Bosporus to Asia and 25 of which have their own steam rooms and Turkish baths. The acclaimed restaurant, Prime, is Istanbul’s first authentic steakhouse, specializing in delicious cuts of meat and seafood prepared on a charcoal grill. INFO: Tel 90/212-315-1234; www.istanbul.park.hyatt.com. Cost: from $440 (off-peak), from $655 (peak); dinner at Prime $65.
PERA PALACE—Founded in 1892, the grande dame of Istanbul’s hotels welcomed its first guests—passengers arriving on the Orient Express from Europe—in 1895 and was the choice of Agatha Christie, Greta Garbo, Mata Hari, and Ernest Hemingway. Today’s guests can visit Room 101, the favorite of Mustapha Kemal Atatürk, founder of modern-day Turkey, and now a museum, while Agatha Christie fans can book Room 411, where, it is believed, she wrote Murder on the Orient Express. The year 2010 saw the completion of a massive restoration of the 115 tastefully uncluttered rooms, most with balconies and many with views over the Golden Horn. The surrounding Beyoğlu area (known as Pera to 19th-century Europeans) is packed with shops, restaurants, and bars. INFO: Tel 90/212-377-4000; www.perapalace.com. Cost: from $350 (off-peak), from $575 (peak).
SUMAHAN ON THE WATER—On the Asian side of the Bosporus, in the fishing village of Çengelköy, this 19th-century distillery-turned-hotel takes first prize for its views. Floor-to-ceiling picture windows provide contemporary guest rooms with some of the most memorable panoramas of old Istanbul across the water. A complimentary launch transports guests to the opposite shore in 15 minutes. Diners at Kordon, one of Istanbul’s best fish restaurants, can enjoy the spectacle of the city’s well-heeled docking their private launches at the restaurant’s own jetty as the sun sets over Topkapi Palace across the strait. INFO: Tel 90/216-422-8000; www.sumahan.com. Cost: from $280 (off-peak), from $425 (peak); dinner $45.
EATING & DRINKING
BALIKÇI SABAHATTIN—“Fisherman Sabahattin” has been at the helm of his acclaimed fish restaurant, a 5-minute downhill walk from Sultanahmet, for several decades now. Istanbullus fight over the pavement tables, which are packed to the gills during warm-weather nights, while the old, timbered house itself is divided into several small rooms over three floors. Expect Turkish classics like rice-stuffed steamed mussels, shrimp and octopus güveç (a type of stew) or, of course, the day’s catch. INFO: Tel 90/212-458-1824; www.balikcisaba
hattin.com. Cost: dinner $40.
FERIYE LOKANTASI—A 19th-century civic building has been converted into a stylish waterside haven, where you can enjoy traditional old-Ottoman cuisine. Specialties include spiced pastirma (pastrami) wrapped in vine leaves or fish stuffed with pine nuts and spiced red peppers. The picturesque seaside village of Ortaköy, with its atmospheric streetside cafés and artisan markets, is just a 10-minute walk away. INFO: Tel 90/212-227-2216; www.feriye.com. Cost: dinner $45.
IMROZ—In the never-ending parade of nearly identical fish restaurants on Nevizade Sokak, in bustling Beyoğlu, Imroz stands out for its fresher-than-fresh offerings and its extensive selection of meze. Presided over by the Greek-Turkish owner and named after a formerly Greek island now called Gökçeada, off the coast of Gallipoli, Imroz is one of the few authentic tavernas left in Istanbul. Grab a street-side table, order an anise-flavored raki, and let the evening unfold. INFO: Tel 90/212-249-9073. Cost: dinner $30.
MIKLA—At Mikla, reckoned by many epicurean devotees to be Istanbul’s premier restaurant, American-trained Turkish-Finnish chef Mehmet Gürs has created a marriage of modern Mediterranean and Nordic flavors. Nurse a drink on the open terrace perched on the top two floors of the 18-story Marmara Pera Hotel, with wraparound city views, before proceeding inside to a sleek, Scandinavian-inspired space. It’s a perfect setting for the minimalist menu, where you might find raw grouper with black olives or cherry-wood smoked lamb loin with walnut pistou on the menu. INFO: Tel 90/212-293-5656; www.miklarestaurant.com. Cost: dinner $75.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 92
