Guided rides on trail-savvy mules take you down to Plateau Point and back in a day. Or you can hike the Bright Angel Trail, which runs 9 miles to Phantom Ranch, the only accommodations below the rim. Other scenic options are South Kaibab Trail and the easy and mostly paved Rim Trail.
The more remote (and therefore less visited) but equally inspiring North Rim is a 210-mile drive or a 21-mile hike from the South Rim. Enjoy the views from the flagstone porches of the stone-and-log Grand Canyon Lodge, built in 1937, before striking off on the 14-mile North Kaibab trail to Phantom Ranch.
The area’s newest attraction is the exhilarating 70-foot-long glass-bottomed Grand Canyon Skywalk, which juts 4,000 feet above the canyon floor. Located in Grand Canyon West, on the Hualapai Indian Reservation, it’s a popular stop on most day trips leaving from Las Vegas (see p. 823), 120 miles away.
Adventurers looking for an insider glimpse of the masterpiece of nature should raft the swift-moving Colorado River—just be sure to book well in advance. Options include motorized or oar-powered boats and rafts, and trips take from a few hours up to 2 weeks through rapids ranging from Class I through V. Shore excursions let you explore side canyons, swimming holes, and waterfalls; nights are spent camping on sandy river beaches beneath a panoply of stars.
Many canyon visitors use Sedona (see p. 710) or Flagstaff as their base. If you set off from the latter, consider the Inn at 410, a nine-bedroom 1894 Craftsman bungalow–turned-B&B, two blocks from Flagstaff’s renovated historic quarter. Be sure to check out the country dancing at Flagstaff’s Museum Club (the Zoo Club to locals) and the stars at Lowell Observatory.
Two billion years of geological history are visible in the Grand Canyon’s rock layers.
WHERE: South Rim is 80 miles north of Flagstaff; North Rim is 270 miles east of Las Vegas. Tel 928-638-7888; www.nps.gov/grca. EL TOVAR: Tel 888-297-2757 or 303-297-2757; www.grandcanyonlodges.com. Cost: from $180. MULE RIDES: Tel 888-297-2757 or 303-297-2757; www.grandcanyonlodges.com. Cost: from $137. When: year-round on the South Rim; mid-May–mid-Oct on the North Rim. GRAND CANYON LODGE: Tel 877-386-4383 or 480-337-1320; www.grandcanyonforever.com. Cost: from $115. When: mid-May–mid-Oct. SKYWALK: Tel 877-716-9378 or 702-878-9378; www.grandcanyonskywalk.com Cost: $70 (includes admission to Grand Canyon West). RIVER RAFTING: O.A.R.S. Tel 800-346-6277 or 209-736-4677; www.oars.com/grand canyon. Cost: 4 days from $1,758. When: Apr–Oct. THE INN AT 410: Tel 800-774-2008 or 928-774-0088; www.inn410.com. Cost: from $160. MUSEUM CLUB: Tel 928-526-9434; www.museumclub.com. LOWELL OBSERVATORY: Tel 928-774-3358; www.lowell.edu. BEST TIMES: Mar–early May and Sep–Oct to avoid summer heat and crowds.
Man-Made Sea of the Southwest
LAKE POWELL
Arizona and Utah, U.S.A.
Imagine the Grand Canyon and then fill it with water. That is Lake Powell—the nation’s second largest man-made lake, whose turquoise waters shimmer like a mirage in the red rock country of northern Arizona and southern Utah. The 710-foot-high Glen Canyon Dam was first proposed in the 1920s and completed in the 1960s, but the lake wasn’t completely filled by the Colorado River until 1980. Free tours from Carl Hayden Visitor Center take you inside the dam to see the gigantic turbines that generate power for states across the West.
Measuring 185 miles long and creating some 2,000 miles of more or less road-free shoreline, Lake Powell has become the “houseboat capital of America.” The red cliffs let onto more than 90 canyons (from mere slots to nearly 10 miles wide). Countless sandy coves and beaches can be explored by day, while nighttime means spectacular stargazing. Houseboats (from bare bones to deluxe) and sea kayaks are for rent at Wahweap Marina, in the busy gateway town of Page, Arizona, where accommodations on terra firma are also available. Small powerboats can be rented—anglers come for the lake’s year-round fishing—and cruises depart in the late afternoon for a scenic dinner on the water.
On the southern edge of the lake, Rainbow Bridge is a site of deep spiritual significance to the Navajo, who call it “the rainbow turned to stone.” At 290 feet high and 275 feet across, it is the longest natural arch in the world. The little-known Antelope Canyon, located within the Navajo Nation (see below), is a popular day trip from Page. A “slot canyon” measuring 120 feet deep and only yards wide in spots, it undulates with rust- and pink-colored curves that glow when lit by narrow shafts of light.
Travel just over the Utah border to Amangiri (“peaceful mountain”), the exquisite 600-acre property of the famously high-service Amanresorts. Ancient Navajo traditions are incorporated into its spa’s extensive offerings. And the desert suites have astonishing views of dunes and plateaus.
WHERE: Page is 135 miles north of Flagstaff. VISITOR INFO: www.pagelakepowelltourism.com. HOUSEBOATS: Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas, tel 888-896-3829 or 928-645-1111; www.lakepowell.com. Cost: 3 days from $1,315 (off-peak), from $1,800 (peak) for a boat that sleeps 6. HOW: Overland Canyon Tours offers trips to Antelope Canyon. Tel 928-608-4072; www.overlandcanyon.com. AMANGIRI: Tel 877-695-3999 or 435-675-3999; www.amanresorts.com. Cost: from $1,000. BEST TIMES: Jun–Oct for water sports; Apr, Jun, and Oct–Nov for fishing.
The West Written in Stone
MONUMENT VALLEY NAVAJO TRIBAL PARK
Arizona and Utah, U.S.A.
The very embodiment of the old West, Monument Valley is a vast barren plain punctuated by towering red-rock formations straddling the Arizona-Utah border. A spectacularly scenic—and rough—17-mile dirt road runs from the visitor center past mesas and starkly eroded buttes, some reaching 1,000 feet above the valley floor with names like Totem Pole, the Mittens, and Elephant Butte. If you want to wander off the road, you must be in the company of a Navajo guide.
Monument Valley falls within the 27,000-square-mile Navajo Nation, roughly the size of West Virginia, where tribe members still live and farm among the skyscraper-size stone towers. To the Navajo all of Tsébii’ nidzisgai (“The Valley Within the Rocks”) is sacred. It’s special to Hollywood, too. Get an introduction to the area’s celluloid history at Goulding’s Lodge and Trading Post, established in 1924 by rancher Harry Goulding. It was Goulding who convinced director John Ford to use the setting as the location for his famous Westerns, beginning with the 1939 John Wayne classic Stagecoach. This 62-room hotel was the only game in town for the film crew and the legions of visitors who followed, but the recent arrival of the Navajo-owned and run View Hotel introduces a new option within the Navajo Tribal Park. The plate-glass walls of the View’s atrium open onto the inspiring vista shared by the 95 guest rooms and a restaurant run by a talented Navajo chef. Watch how at sunset the entire valley seems to catch fire.
The small town of Window Rock is where you’ll find the Navajo Nation Museum and the Navajo Nation Fair every September. From there it’s not far to Tuba City, on one of the most eye-catching stretches of the Painted Desert. Come in October for the Western Navajo Fair and witness a town transformed by music, dancers, and a parade. Visitors are also welcome in the smaller Hopi Reservation, where 12 ancient villages are spread across three flat-topped mesas. The Hopi Cultural Center, in the heart of Second Mesa, is a combination museum, modest motel, and restaurant serving simple, traditional fare.
Millions of years of erosion shaped Yei Bi Chai and Totem Pole.
WHERE: 170 miles north of Flagstaff. Tel 928-871-6647; www.navajonationparks.org. HOW: Sacred Monument Tours leads horseback, jeep, and hiking tours. Tel 435-727-3218; www.monumentvalley.net. Cost: from $60. GOULDING’S LODGE: Tel 435-727-3231; www.gouldings.com. Cost: from $80 (off-peak), from $195 (peak). VIEW HOTEL: Tel 435-727-5555; www.monumentvalleyview.com. Cost: from $100 (off-peak), from $200 (peak); dinner $25. NAVAJO NATION MUSEUM: Tel 928-871-7941; www.navajonationmuseum.org. NAVAJO NATION FAIR: Tel 928-871-6478; www.navajonationfair.com. When: early Sep. HOPI CULTURAL CENTER: Tel 928-734-2401; www.hopiculturalcenter.com. Cost: from $85; lunch $10. BEST TIMES: late afternoon, sunset, or at night during a full moon; Apr–May and Oct–Nov when weather is cool and crowds are smaller; early Sep f
or Navajo Nation Fair, Oct for Western Navajo Fair.
A Desert Oasis Where Fairways Abound
GOLFING THE VALLEY OF THE SUN
Phoenix and Scottsdale, Arizona, U.S.A.
With over 200 golf courses and an average of 300 days of sun annually, the greater Phoenix area—known more poetically as the Valley of the Sun—has become one of America’s most popular winter destinations.
Much of Scottsdale’s reputation as a golfing mecca is thanks to Troon North and its two top-ranked daily fee courses: the Monument, designed by Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish, and Weiskopf’s Pinnacle. Guests at the adjacent Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North enjoy priority use of the facilities as well as lavish accommodations with terraces overlooking the cacti and après-golf wine tastings.
The crown jewel of the valley’s top-ranked resorts is The Phoenician, with three nine-hole courses over 150 lush acres, the Centre for Well-Being spa, and a resident astronomer to interpret those clear desert skies. Not to be outdone, the oasislike Boulders Resort in nearby Carefree comes with breathtaking views of the Sonoran Desert, two 18-hole Jay Moorish–designed courses, and a Golden Door Spa.
Palms and tiled fountains give the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess the air of a Moorish-Spanish palacio. One of its two acclaimed courses, the TPC of Scottsdale, is host to the Waste Management Phoenix (originally Phoenix) Open.
The Arizona Biltmore, with its tricycle-borne room service, is luxurious but cheerier than many of its competitors. Designed by an apprentice of Frank Lloyd Wright, with the master’s assistance, it is the stylish centerpiece to two 18-hole golf courses and a spa that knows few rivals. The Wigwam is the only resort in the area that claims three championship golf courses, including the classic Gold Course, designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr.
The state’s largest infinity pool and an Asian-inspired spa are the stars at the chic Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain. Its panoramic views across Paradise Valley may make you consider ditching the clubs for a day.
VISITOR INFO: www.golfarizona.com. TROON NORTH: Tel 888-876-6687 or 480-585-5300; www.troonnorthgolf.com. Cost: greens fees from $45 (off-peak), from $145 (peak). FOUR SEASONS RESORT: Tel 888-207-9696 or 480-515-5700; www.fourseasons.com. Cost: from $195 (off-peak), from $525 (peak). PHOENICIAN: Tel 800-888-8234 or 480-941-8200; www.thephoenician.com. Cost: from $180 (off-peak), from $325 (peak); greens fees from $30 (off-peak), from $200 (peak). BOULDERS RESORT: Tel 888-579-2631 or 480-488-9009; www.theboulders.com. Cost: from $129 (off-peak), from $399 (peak); greens fees $200. FAIRMONT SCOTTSDALE PRINCESS: Tel 877-733-7485 or 480-585-4848; www.fairmont.com. Cost: from $149 (off-peak), from $279 (peak); greens fees from $100 (off-peak), from $140 (peak). ARIZONA BILTMORE: Tel 800-950-0086 or 602-955-6600; www.arizonabiltmore.com. Cost: from $129 (off-peak), from $299 (peak); greens fees from $39 (off-peak), from $99 (peak). WIGWAM GOLF RESORT & SPA: Tel 800-327-0396 or 623-935-3811; www.wigwamresort.com. Cost: from $110 (off-peak), from $260 (peak); Gold greens fees from $35 (off-peak), from $75 (peak). SANCTUARY ON CAMELBACK MOUNTAIN: Tel 800-245-2051 or 480-948-2100; www.sanctuaryaz.com. Cost: from $180 (off-peak), from $520 (peak). BEST TIMES: Dec–Apr; Jan–Feb for the WM Phoenix Open.
“Layer Cake” Terrain and Sandstone Skyscrapers
SEDONA AND RED ROCK COUNTRY
Arizona, U.S.A.
As if sculpted in crimson stone, the city of Sedona and its red rock towers stand tall against pine green hillsides and a cerulean sky. Getting there from Flagstaff is half the fun: Highway 89A takes you through Oak Creek Canyon and past eroded monoliths, and frequent pull-overs invite you to stop for photo ops or to splash about in the creek’s refreshing swimming holes.
The Yavapai Apache tribe consider this area sacred, and seven supposed energy vortexes, known for their healing and cleansing properties, draw spiritualists and would-be shamans. Hiking and mountain biking opportunities abound, or you can gaze at the scenery from a hot-air balloon or one of the distinctive pink jeeps available for tours. The summer heat (moderated somewhat by the city’s 4,500-foot altitude) drives many to swim in Slide Rock Canyon State Park or to take refuge in the air-conditioned galleries that line uptown’s Main Street district and gave rise to Sedona’s vibrant art scene.
Tlaquepaque Arts & Crafts Village, a re-created Mexican hamlet with leafy trees, fountains, and alfresco dining, has dozens of shops to explore. (It’s across the street from the Center for the New Age, which offers guided tours of the vortexes.) The Chapel of the Holy Cross, another spiritual must-see, was built into the rock 200 feet above the valley. It features lovely views and a façade distinguished by a huge cross.
Sedona is also known for its luxurious lodgings, with first prize going to the 70-acre Enchantment Resort on the outskirts of town. Most come for the hotel’s Mii amo Spa, and its Boynton Canyon setting. End your day at the resort’s acclaimed Yavapai Restaurant, and watch the moon rise over rust-colored cliffs.
A host of smaller and more intimate accommodations also invite you to linger. Garland’s Oak Creek Lodge is a comfy 1930s getaway known for its down-home fare. Lush gardens and orchards surround its 16 rustic cabins, some with fireplaces and a few on the creek. In town, El Portal is a casual and pet-friendly hacienda within an easy stroll of Tlaquepaque.
The Chapel of the Holy Cross, completed in 1956, offers views and inspiration.
WHERE: 120 miles north of Phoenix. VISITOR INFO: www.visitsedona.com. PINK JEEP TOURS: Tel 800-873-3662 or 928282-5000; www.pinkjeep.com. SLIDE ROCK CANYON STATE PARK: Tel 928-282-3034; www.azstateparks.com. CENTER FOR THE NEW AGE: Tel 888-881-6651 or 928-282-2085; www.sedonanewagecenter.com. ENCHANTMENT: Tel 800-826-4180 or 928-282-2900; www.enchantmentresort.com. Cost: from $350 (off-peak), from $450 (peak); dinner $60. MII AMO SPA: Tel 888-749-2137 or 928-282-2800; www.miiamo.com. GARLAND’S LODGE: Tel 928-282-3343; www.garlandslodge.com. Cost: from $245, inclusive. When: closed mid-Nov–late Mar. EL PORTAL: Tel 800-313-0017 or 928-203-9405; www.elportalsedona.com. Cost: from $179 (off-peak), from $279 (peak). BEST TIMES: Mar–May and Sep–Oct for nicest weather; late Feb or early Mar for Sedona International Film Festival.
World-Class Wellness Trailblazers
CANYON RANCH AND MIRAVAL
Tucson, Arizona, U.S.A.
The beautiful saguaro-studded Sonoran Desert is home to two of the country’s highest-rated destination spas. Although they may have different approaches to well-being, both Canyon Ranch and Miraval regularly make the best-of lists for treatments, accommodations, and location.
Since it opened in 1979 on 150 acres in the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains (with an equally plush facility in the Berkshires in Massachusetts), Canyon Ranch has become North America’s most famous shrine to health, wellness, and extreme pampering. A seemingly endless roster of activities—from Pilates, guided desert hikes, and art classes to talks focused on medical issues—is presided over by a staff of specialists. Beyond simple relaxation, the goal is to take the lessons and benefits of the Canyon Ranch experience home with you, whether they involve managing stress or learning to prepare some of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Their lemon blackberry pie is a favorite.
At nearby Miraval, you’ll spend as much time on mental, emotional, and spiritual growth as on physical exercise or prickly pear sugar scrubs. Set in nearly 400 acres of serene desert in Catalina, Miraval offers the requisite fitness classes and spa treatments, but here you’ll also participate in “challenge sessions,” such as tightrope walking and soaring from a new 1,000-foot zip-line. Exploring a new way of life is what counts here.
CANYON RANCH: Tel 800-742-9000 or 520-749-9000; www.canyonranch.com. Cost: 4 nights from $2,860 per person (off-peak), from $4,070 (peak), all-inclusive. MIRAVAL RESORT: Tel 800-232-3969 or 520-825-4000; www.miravalresorts.com. Cost: $425 per person, all-inclusive.
Along El Camino Real
CALIFORNIA MISSION TRAIL
California, U.S.A.
On July 16, 1769, Father Junípero Serra, accompanied by a scraggly band of Spanish sol
diers and missionaries, erected a brushwood shelter and founded Mission San Diego de Alcalá. It was the first of 21 Franciscan missions established along the coastal route dubbed El Camino Real (“The Royal Road”), extending from present-day San Diego (see p. 725) to the last and northernmost mission, founded in Sonoma (see p. 714) in 1823. Established for reasons both spiritual and military, these outposts are a cornerstone of California history, culture, and architecture. They are considered among the most beautiful buildings in the state and historically significant in the country.
Each mission serves as a snapshot of the state’s early days, and all of them have their own appeal, but if you have to choose, here are the highlights. Mission San Juan Capistrano, “Jewel of the Missions,” is as famous for its gardens as for its migrating swallows (las golondrinas) that return annually from Argentina around March 19 (St. Joseph’s Day). Mission San Buenaventura, in Ventura, still looks much as it did when it was constructed, between 1792 and 1809. Visit the hilltop “Queen of the Missions” in Santa Barbara, for its distinctive twin bell towers and, on a clear day, its views of the Channel Islands. Finally, don’t miss San Carlos Borroméo, in Carmel (see p. 724), founded in 1771 and once headquarters for the entire mission system in California. Pope John Paul II visited here in 1987 to beatify Father Serra, who died here in 1784 after establishing nine missions. Allowed to fall to ruins in the 19th century, it is now one of the most authentically restored mission churches in all of California.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 111
