TOP ATTRACTIONS
MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS—The MFA’s holdings are so vast—more than 450,000 pieces, from objects produced from around 6000 B.C. to works by contemporary artists—that you’ll find treasures no matter where you wander. A major renovation and expansion culminated in 2010 with the opening of the new airy American Wing, which displays 5,000 treasures from across the New World. INFO: Tel 617-267-9300; www.mfa.org.
ISABELLA STEWART GARDNER MUSEUM—Venture inside beyond the austere façade of this 1901 mansion to discover a romantic four-story re-creation of a 15th-century Venetian palazzo, with a central courtyard. Once the home of Isabella Gardner, a turn-of-the-20th-century bohemian and art collector, the building now houses her idiosyncratic collection of European, Asian, and American fine and decorative art. The museum hosts chamber music concert series most Sunday afternoons from September through May. A Renzo Piano–designed wing is scheduled to open in 2012. INFO: 617-566-1401; www.gardnermuseum.org.
INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART/BOSTON—This light-filled structure of glass and steel built in 2006, and cantilevered over the South Boston waterfront, showcases contemporary and avant-garde art in all media, not just visual art and installations, but music, film, video, and performance. There’s always something intriguing to experience here. INFO: Tel 617-478-3100; www.icaboston.org.
FENWAY PARK—Fenway Park is the oldest major league ballpark in America. Its appeal derives mostly from its quirky architecture and the history that oozes from every brick and board—a history that, to the despair of Red Sox fans, included only two World Series titles between 1918 and 2004. (They scooped up another trophy in 2007.) If you can’t make a game, at least take a tour. INFO: Tel 877-733-7699 (tickets) or 617-226-6666 (tour); www.redsox.com. When: games Apr–early Oct; tours year-round.
THE FREEDOM TRAIL—The 2.5-mile self-guided Freedom Trail connects 16 of Boston’s most important colonial and Revolutionary War landmarks. It begins at Boston Common, the nation’s first park (created in 1634), and runs past the circa 1680 Paul Revere House and the “one if by land, two if by sea” Old North Church (1723). Also on the trail is Faneuil Hall, Boston’s original market building and meeting hall. Today it’s the centerpiece of a five-building complex of shops, bars, and eateries. The restaurants include Durgin-Park, open since 1827 and known throughout the years for hearty Yankee fare—including its Boston cream pie. INFO: Tel 617-357-8300; www.thefreedomtrail.org. DURGIN-PARK: Tel 617-227-2038; www.durgin-park.com. Cost: lunch $25.
THE PUBLIC GARDEN—This is America’s first public botanical garden, with plantings dating back to 1837. At its verdant center is a small lagoon that’s filled in the summer with Swan Boats pedaled by college students. In winter, ice-skaters pirouette on the pond’s glassy surface. Near the corner of Beacon and Charles streets, Make Way for Ducklings is a string of tiny bronze statuettes of waterfowl eternally following their mother toward the pond, as they did in Robert McCloskey’s children’s book of the same name. Close to the exit onto Commonwealth Avenue, a landmark statue of George Washington gazes down from his horse. SWAN BOATS: Tel 617-522-1966; www.swanboats.com. When: late Apr–mid-Sep.
The city’s 24-acre green heart was once a marsh.
BEACON HILL—One of Boston’s oldest neighborhoods, Beacon Hill is a time capsule of elegant, early-19th-century architecture, with white-trimmed redbrick town houses, well-tended window boxes overflowing with flowers, and gas lamps lighting the cobbled streets. The steep streets lead up to the golden dome of the 1797 Massachusetts State House. The south slope of the hill is known as Boston Common, and the “flat of the hill,” between Charles Street and the Charles River, adjoins the Public Garden. Or follow the Black Heritage Trail, which links 15 historically significant sites, including a stop on the Underground Railroad and the Museum of African American History. VISITOR INFO: www.bostonusa.com. BOSTON AFRICAN AMERICAN NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE: Tel 617-742-5415; www.nps.gov/boaf. MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY: Tel 617-725-0022; www.maah.org.
Narrow, row house–lined Acorn Street epitomizes elite, historic Beacon Hill.
HARVARD SQUARE—No visit to Boston is complete without a side trip to “The People’s Republic of Cambridge,” the lively and unabashedly intellectual city across the Charles River that’s home to two heavyweight seats of learning, the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (M.I.T) and Harvard University (founded in 1636). Life here revolves around Harvard Square, bustling with the tides of students, professors, and visitors, and crowded with trendy boutiques, restaurants, and bistros. Just adjacent lies Harvard Yard, where you’ll see nearly three centuries’ worth of architecture, including the university’s oldest building, Massachusetts Hall (1720). The nearby Fogg, with its Italian Renaissance–style stone courtyard, is the best known of the university’s three museums, which together hold more than 250,000 objects. (The Fogg and Busch-Reisinger Museums are closed for renovation through 2013; in the interim, selected pieces from these collections are on view at the nearby Arthur M. Sackler Museum.) VISITOR INFO: www.cambridge-usa.org. HARVARD UNIVERSITY: www.harvard.edu. HARVARD ART MUSEUMS: Tel 617-495-9400; www.artmuseums.harvard.edu.
BOSTON’S NORTH END—Its narrow streets crammed with redbrick tenements, the North End is where many newly arrived immigrants made their first homes. Beginning in the mid-1800s, the area teemed with Irish families, followed by new arrivals from Eastern Europe, Portugal, and finally Italy. Today it remains one of the nation’s most famous Italian-American communities, with a wealth of great restaurants, from Pizzeria Regina, with its thin-crust pies, to Caffè Vittoria, the oldest café in Boston, to the more formal Mamma Maria, known for northern Italian cuisine and romance. In summer, the North End fills with street fairs, peaking with the Fisherman’s Feast in mid-August, which kicks off with a procession of the Madonna and continues with entertainment and lots of good food. PIZZERIA REGINA: Tel 617-227-0765; www.pizzeriaregina.com. Cost: large pie from $13. CAFFÈ VITTORIA: Tel 617-227-7606; www.vittoriacaffe.com. MAMMA MARIA: Tel 617-523-0077; www.mammamaria.com. Cost: dinner $55.
EVENTS & FESTIVALS
BOSTON HARBORFEST—Boston enjoys the Fourth of July far too much to confine its celebration to one day or one place: Its Harborfest lasts a full week and happens at various venues downtown and along the waterfront. Harborfest’s 200-plus events—concerts, cruises, tours, performances, and more—include Children’s Day and Chowderfest, where crowds vote on the region’s signature soup. The climax of the festivities is the free concert by the Boston Pops (see next page) on the night of the Fourth, complete with church bells, cannon fire (during the finale of the 1812 Overture), and a thunderous display of fireworks set to music. INFO: Tel 617-227-1528; www.bostonharborfest.com. POPS CONCERT: Tel 888-484-7677 or 617-267-2400; www.july4th.org.
THE BOSTON MARATHON—The Boston Marathon is the world’s oldest such race held annually, and the centerpiece of the city’s celebration of Patriots Day, a state holiday that falls on the third Monday in April and commemorates the start of the Revolutionary War. Upwards of 20,000 official runners set out from the starting line in suburban Hopkinton and make their way along the 26.2-mile course, cheered on by a half million spectators lining nearly the entire route. Almost everyone eventually makes it to Boylston Street in the Back Bay, crossing the finish line near Copley Square. INFO: Tel 617-236-1652; www.bostonmarathon.org.
HEAD OF THE CHARLES REGATTA—The world’s largest two-day rowing event, with 300,000-plus spectators, the Head of the Charles draws more than 8,000 athletes from colleges, high schools, and clubs in the U.S. and abroad to compete in 59 races. The curving 3.2-mile course stretches from Boston University’s DeWolfe Boathouse to the finish just past the Eliot Bridge. Although the Regatta is not directly affiliated with any of the area’s universities, there’s an undeniable collegiate energy, with youthful supporters screaming themselves hoarse as the boats whiz by. INFO: Tel 617-868-6200; www.hocr.org. WHEN: 3rd weekend in Oct.
THE BOSTON SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND THE BOSTON
POPS—The Boston Symphony Orchestra is one of the world’s very best, and if you’re in the city from late September through April, you should plan to take in a concert in the acoustically perfect Symphony Hall. The Boston Pops Orchestra also performs here, most frequently during the holiday season and from May through early July. INFO: Tel 888-266-1200 or 617-266-1200 (tickets), 617-266-1492 (info); www.bso.org.
WHERE TO STAY
BOSTON HARBOR HOTEL—Location, location, location: Perched above Boston Harbor, this hotel has the city’s best views, along with top-notch facilities (including a full-service spa). There’s nothing demure about the façade, featuring an 80-foot arch topped by a rotunda, but in contrast, the 230 guest rooms have a relaxed elegance that’s chic rather than stuffy. The Meritage dining room pairs its exquisite, full-flavored cuisine with wines from its 12,000-bottle collection. INFO: Tel 617-439-7000; www.bhh.com. Cost: from $290; dinner at the Meritage $80.
ELIOT HOTEL—The Eliot is a refined and elegant boutique hotel, with personalized service and European-style luxury. The classically furnished one- and two-bedroom suites quickly become a home away from home. The sophistication extends to the hotel’s restaurant Clio, where award-winning chef Ken Oringer interweaves the vivid, distinctive flavors of the freshest local produce with classic French techniques. INFO: Tel 800-443-5468 or 617-267-1607; www.eliothotel.com. Cost: from $225 (off-peak), from $395 (peak); dinner $75.
FAIRMONT COPLEY PLAZA—Boston’s most romantic hotel is filled with all the grace and opulence you’d expect of its 1912 pedigree (it was designed by the same architect as New York’s Plaza Hotel). Guest rooms are sinfully comfortable, but it’s the gilded lobby and the Oak Bar (a clubby hideaway of leather furniture and excellent martinis) that make you feel like royalty. INFO: Tel 800-257-7544 or 617-267-5300; www.fairmont.com/copleyplaza. Cost: from $270 (off-peak), from $380 (peak).
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BOSTON—Four Seasons Hotel Boston combines discreet luxury with a gorgeous setting and award-winning dining. The Public Garden is a constant presence: It’s visible through huge windows from the lobby, restaurant, guest rooms, and swimming pool. Accommodations are large, with marble-tiled bathrooms and a soothing modern décor. The convivial Bristol Lounge is where locals and guests alike gather to enjoy cocktails, live music, and memorable cuisine, including the famous Bristol Burger with truffle fries. INFO: Tel 617-338-4400; www.fourseasons.com/boston. Cost: from $450 (off-peak), from $650 (peak); dinner $60.
LENOX HOTEL—Blending vintage elegance with modern comforts, the Lenox offers great value, plus a superb location in the Back Bay. The 1901 hotel maintains its historic charms—many of the suites have working fireplaces—while receiving accolades as one of the “greenest” hotels in the nation. INFO: Tel 800-225-7676 or 617-536-5300; www.lenoxhotel.com. Cost: from $185 (off-peak), from $345 (peak).
TAJ BOSTON—Opened in 1927 as the Ritz-Carlton Hotel and purchased by Taj Hotels Resorts in 2007, the Taj Boston continues to occupy a special niche befitting its venerable pedigreed opulence. Decorated in classic style and outfitted with all the latest perks (call the front desk for the “Fireplace Butler”), it’s the one truly legendary Boston hotel. Two of its longstanding draws are its traditional afternoon tea, accompanied by live harp music, and its location on Newbury Street, known for the city’s best shopping. INFO: Tel 877-482-5267 or 617-536-5700; www.tajhotels.com/boston. Cost: from $250 (off-peak), from $395 (peak); afternoon tea $32.
EATING & DRINKING
HAMERSLEY’S BISTRO—At this South Bay storefront, Gordon Hamersley helped pioneer the chef-owned restaurant scene. The menu changes seasonally, but a handful of stalwarts, including perfectly roasted chicken with garlic, lemon, and parsley, are standouts all year long. INFO: Tel 617-423-2700; www.hamersleysbistro.com. Cost: dinner $50.
LEGAL SEA FOODS—This beloved chain of seafood restaurants originated in the 1950s as a fish market (Julia Child was an early customer). Today Legal Sea Foods is a venerable institution, internationally renowned for the quality and freshness of its fish. There are more than a dozen locations in greater Boston, but the one most convenient to the Freedom Trail is the waterfront dining room on Long Wharf. Legal’s chunky clam chowder is a must-sample, but so is the steamed or baked lobster, and a perfect rendition of Boston cream pie for dessert. INFO: Tel 617-742-5300; www.leagalseafoods.com. Cost: dinner $40.
Downtown Boston’s Faneuil Hall (center) has long been a gathering site for debate and commerce.
LOCKE-OBER—The ornate dining room at Locke-Ober, with its vintage carved mahogany paneling, Art Nouveau stained glass, and crystal chandeliers, evokes its 1860s roots. This well-loved landmark received a menu update from Lydia Shire, who revised the French menu and added lighter, more contemporary fare. Still, it’s the classics like lobster Savannah (lobster stuffed with mushrooms and seafood) that keep the let’s-dress-up-for-dinner crowd coming back for more. INFO: Tel 617-542-1340; www.lockeober.com. Cost: dinner $75.
NO. 9 PARK—Sitting high on Beacon Hill, No. 9 Park sets the standard for contemporary fine dining. Chef-owner Barbara Lynch has won a James Beard Award for her refined cooking, which takes its cues from French and Italian cuisines but is the essence of New England in its flavors. The dining room, designed to evoke a 1940s supper club, looks out on the Common. Lynch also operates B&G Oysters, with fantastically fresh seafood, and Sportello, an American diner seen through an Italian lens. NO. 9 PARK: Tel 617-742-9991; www.no9park.com. Cost: tasting menu $96. B&G OYSTERS: Tel 617-423-0550; www.bandgoysters.com. Cost: dinner $40. SPORTELLO: Tel 617-737-1234; www.sportelloboston.com. Cost: dinner: $40.
OLEANA—The sunny flavors of the eastern Mediterranean reign at this cozy Cambridge restaurant operated by chef-owner Ana Sortun. Complex blends of spices infuse her tamarind-glazed beef and grilled octopus with fennel conserve. Oleana’s shady courtyard is perfect for alfresco dining. INFO: Tel 617-661-0505; www.oleanarestaurant.com. Cost: dinner $55.
YE OLDE UNION OYSTER HOUSE—Established in 1826 near Faneuil Hall, in an atmospheric corner known as the Blackstone Block, Ye Olde Union Oyster House is the country’s oldest restaurant in continuous service. Stop by its famous raw bar for oysters—and a full serving of old-time atmosphere. The path to your table, across sloping wooden floors, may take you past Booth 18, once favored by John F. Kennedy. INFO: Tel 617-227-2750; www.unionoysterhouse.com. Cost: dinner $35.
Oldies but Goodies
BRIMFIELD AND STURBRIDGE
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
The country’s largest and best-known antiques and collectibles market teems with more than 6,000 dealers and some 1 million visitors who come from all over the country and beyond. Materializing in central Massachusetts three times a year, the Brimfield Outdoor Antiques Show occupies a 1-mile stretch of former farmland along Route 20, blanketing the fields in tents and makeshift display areas. The air may be jovial, but the dealers aren’t fooling around, and neither are the legions of buyers, who arrive as early as 4:30 A.M. on opening day (Tuesday), loaded for bear.
Each field keeps its own schedule; many are open between dawn and dusk throughout the show’s six days. By the weekend, the prime merchandise has been snapped up, but latecomers to “the Brimfield fleas” can sometimes take advantage of slashed prices on items sellers don’t want to haul home. Wear your most comfortable shoes, and be warned that it frequently rains during the May show.
It’s just 6 miles from the hubbub to another remarkable collection of antiques—Old Sturbridge Village, the largest living history museum in the Northeast. This re-creation of a rural 1830s New England community is thoughtfully arranged across 200 acres; its 40 period buildings were transported from all over the region beginning in the mid-1940s. There are authentically furnished homes, a working farm, a small school, and water-powered mills, as well as a stagecoach to ride and costumed “residents” demonstrating their trades and crafts, and celebrating holidays and the seasons in traditional ways.
WHERE: 64 miles west of Boston. BRIMFIELD O
UTDOOR ANTIQUES SHOW: Tel 413-283-2418; www.quaboag.com. When: 3 shows (Tues–Sun) yearly: 2nd Tues in May, 2nd Tues after July 4, 1st Tues after Labor Day. OLD STURBRIDGE VILLAGE: Tel 800-733-1830 or 508-347-3362; www.osv.org. BEST TIMES: in Sturbridge: Apr for Barnyard Babies; early Jul for Independence Day events; Sep–Nov for harvest and Thanksgiving celebrations; Dec for Christmas festivities.
The Bay State’s “Other Cape”
CAPE ANN
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Massachusetts’s “Other Cape” juts out into the Atlantic just north of Boston. In 1623, European settlers of Cape Anne declared the waters around Gloucester the best fishing grounds in the New World, and descendants of early Portuguese and Italian fishermen still gather today for St. Peter’s Fiesta, an enormous summer street fair that includes a blessing of the fleet.
Gloucester remains a scrappy seafaring town (it was the setting for the book The Perfect Storm and its film adaption), and today specializes in whale-watching cruises. Cape Ann’s proximity to the National Marine Sanctuary at Stellwagen Bank, running from Gloucester to Provincetown (see next page) and a veritable banquet for migrating whales, led to its self-anointed role as “Whale-Watching Capital of the World.” It’s also home to the Rocky Neck Art Colony, the nation’s oldest such colony. Nearby Rockport attracts visitors with its own vibrant artist community and a downtown that—even with its overflow of gift shops and B&Bs—retains its charm. The gracious 19th-century Emerson Inn by the Sea, named for the famous philosopher and onetime guest, sits north of town, with a columned back veranda and lovely restaurant that both enjoy water views. Nearby Essex’s legacy is proudly preserved in the small Essex Shipbuilding Museum, which traces its story from the first shipyard in 1668 to the mid-19th century, when as many as 15 manufacturers worked around the clock to produce 50 or more vessels a year.
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