Quiet and unassuming Chama (with a population just above 1,000) is chock-full of souvenir shops and B&Bs. For luxury lodgings, head out of town to the 21-room Lodge and Ranch at Chama, with its rustic but sophisticated décor and dining, and 36,000 acres that are nirvana to anglers. Southwest of town, paddle on the pristine Rio Chama, a National Wild and Scenic River and a popular whitewater run, as it flows through a 1,500-foot-deep canyon lined with red cliffs and sage-covered grasslands.
WHERE: Chama is 168 miles north of Albuquerque. CUMBRES & TOLTEC: Tel 888-286-2737 or 719-376-5483; www.cumbrestoltec.com. Cost: $88 round-trip, includes lunch. When: mid-May–mid-Oct. THE LODGE AND RANCH AT CHAMA: Tel 575-756-2133; www.lodgeatchama.com. Cost: from $275 per person per day, inclusive. BEST TIMES: mid-May–Sep for wildlife ranch tours at the Lodge; late May–early Jun for high-water rafting; Jun–Sep for fishing; Jul–Aug for lower-water rafting and warmer weather.
Out of This World
ROSWELL
New Mexico, U.S.A.
Who knows what actually crashed to earth near sleepy Roswell on a July night in 1947? Local ranchers described finding pieces of purple metal inscribed with strange hieroglyphics; newspapers reported the recovery of “flying discs”; and the U.S. Army announced that a spaceship had crashed, then said it was a weather balloon and stonewalled further discussion.
Nevertheless, in the decades since “the incident,” this city in southeastern New Mexico has become synonymous with unidentified flying objects. Roswell’s notoriety has spawned movies, TV shows, conferences, and the International UFO Museum and Research Center downtown, where conspiracy theorists can peruse celestial paintings, models of alien spacecraft, and some of the thousands of books written about the subject.
Every July Fourth weekend, the annual Roswell UFO Festival features lectures, workshops, and abduction panels, plus light-hearted costume contests, fireworks, and a parade down Main Street. The infamous Hangar 84, where the government stored the debris from the mysterious crash, is open for tours during the festival.
The Roswell Museum and Art Center displays a small but world-class collection of New Mexico modernism, including works by Georgia O’Keeffe (see p. 832) and the budding artists of the Roswell Artist-in-Residence Program. Also on exhibit is a special collection of early rockets and engines created and developed by the “Father of Modern Rocket Science” Robert Goddard, who lived and worked here for 12 years beginning in the 1930s. The attached Robert H. Goddard Planetarium is the largest in the state, featuring a NASA-derived link to the Hubble Telescope called Viewspace.
WHERE: 200 miles southeast of Albuquerque. INTERNATIONAL UFO MUSEUM: Tel 800-822-3545 or 575-625-9495; www.roswellufomuseum.com. ROSWELL UFO FESTIVAL: Tel 575-625-9495; www.roswellufofestival.com. When: July 4 weekend. ROSWELL MUSEUM: Tel 575-624-6744; www.roswellmuseum.org.
Get Your Kicks on America’s Mother Road
ROUTE 66
New Mexico and beyond, U.S.A.
There’s no road more embedded in the psyche of America than Route 66. Commissioned in 1926, the 2,448-mile “Mother Road” epitomized the American dream and led Dust Bowl refugees and beatniks alike to California, spawning an unparalleled profusion of neon and drive-in Americana in eight states from Chicago to Los Angeles. Steinbeck and Kerouac wrote about it, Nat King Cole sang about it, and there were even a TV series (Route 66 premiered in 1960) and an animated film (Pixar’s Cars) inspired by it.
Although it was officially decommissioned in 1985, “America’s Main Street” retains its hold on the nation’s imagination. From the birthplace of the corn dog (Springfield, Illinois) to the Grand Canyon (see p. 706), this National Scenic Byway encompasses kitsch, natural wonders, and much else that defines America.
Portions of the two-lane black-topped route are gone, but 85 percent of it remains, with many long stretches drivable, particularly in the Southwest. Explore the roadside culture that cropped up on New Mexico’s flatter eastern portion, starting at Glenrio. Half an hour east is Tucumcari and the Mesalands Dinosaur Museum, home of the world’s largest collection of fossils, as well as bronze skeletons and other replicas of prehistoric creatures. Spend the night at the friendly Blue Swallow Motel, built in 1939, and don’t miss Tom Coffin’s huge tail-fin sculpture, Roadside Attraction, at the town’s west end.
In Santa Rosa, 60 miles west, take a dip in the cool, clear waters of the Blue Hole and stop to ogle the classic cars at the Route 66 Auto Museum. The road once curved north to Santa Fe before heading south again to Albuquerque, where 18 miles are still lined with classic billboards and ’50s architecture.
Fill up your tank and keep heading west to Gallup, commercial hub of the nearby Navajo Nation (see p. 708). Route 66 still serves as a neon-lined Main Street here, with the largest concentration of trading posts and galleries selling Native American crafts in the state. Stay at the tacky but cool, history-steeped El Rancho, a popular location for Western film shoots from 1929 through 1964.
ROUTE 66 FEDERATION: Tel 909-336-6131; www.national66.com. MESALANDS DINOSAUR MUSEUM: Tel 575-461-3466. BLUE SWALLOW MOTEL: Tel 575-461-9849; www.blueswallow motel.com. Cost: from $50. ROUTE 66 AUTO MUSEUM: Tel 505-472-1966; www.route66automuseum.com. EL RANCHO: Tel 505-863-9311; www.elranchohotel.com. Cost: from $95.
An Artist’s Love Affair with New Mexico’s Beauty
GEORGIA O’KEEFFE TRAIL
Santa Fe and Abiquiu, New Mexico, U.S.A.
“The colors are different up there,” Georgia O’Keeffe wrote of the Land of Enchantment, a place she not only loved but became identified with. Although a Midwesterner who initially found inspiration in New York City, she has long been considered New Mexico’s most celebrated artist. To see what moved her, start by spending time in Santa Fe’s Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, which houses the world’s largest permanent collection of the artist’s work; a number of her paintings are also on display at the nearby New Mexico Museum of Art.
But to really get a sense of O’Keeffe’s world, travel to the little town of Abiquiu, 37 miles to the north, where she moved permanently in 1949, 3 years after the death of her husband, the acclaimed photographer Alfred Stieglitz. It’s here that she developed her iconic style: colorful, almost surreal canvases that portray her adopted land, with sensual images that often include two of her favorite subjects—animal skulls and bones and large-scale flowers.
Despite the attention O’Keeffe’s work has brought, Abiquiu remains a small village, with only about 1,000 residents. Today it is home to a number of artists, who make Abiquiu a quiet enclave of creativity. If you’re spending the night, stay at the unpretentious Abiquiu Inn. Its Southwest-themed rooms and casitas sit next to the meeting place for tours of the Georgia O’Keeffe Home and Studio, both owned by the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, which arranges a limited number of visits annually.
O’Keeffe divided her time between Abiquiu and nearby Ghost Ranch, an existence that provided her with what she called “the wideness and wonder of the world as I live in it.” The ranch is now a retreat and an education center that offers seminars on topics ranging from spirituality to science to art. Accommodations are comfortable and basic, with no phones or TVs, but the views are those that gave birth to great art.
Abiquiu’s adobe St. Thomas Church is in keeping with the southwestern style that inspired O’Keeffe.
GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM: Tel 505-946-1000; www.okeeffemuseum.org. NEW MEXICO MUSEUM OF ART: Tel 505-476-5072; www.nmartmuseum.org. GEORGIA O’KEEFFE TOURS: Tel 505-685-4539. When: by appointment, mid-Mar–late Nov. ABIQUIU INN: Tel 888-735-2902 or 505-685-4378; www.abiquiuinn.com. Cost: from $90. GHOST RANCH: Tel 877-804-4678 or 505-685-4333; www.ghostranch.org. Cost: seminars from $220 per week; lodging from $90 per person.
Taking the Waters Under the Desert Sky
HOT SPRINGS AND SPAS
Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico, U.S.A.
New Mexico is brimming with places to indulge in a heavenly hot-water soak, from sandy-bottomed pools deep in the woods to a Zen-like desti
nation spa that recalls Kyoto. The latter is Ten Thousand Waves, a favorite hideaway in a forested mountain setting just outside Santa Fe. Its low-key ambience, serene accommodations, and wooden outdoor pools, modeled after those found at Japanese onsen (hot-spring baths) promise to mend both body and mind. Treatments include everything from the signature “Four Hands, One Heart” massage to the centuries-old Japanese Nightingale facial.
An hour north of Santa Fe lies the 1,100-acre Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa, one of the oldest health resorts in North America. The Mission Revival-style adobe hotel, built in 1916, houses the Artesian Restaurant along with 48 rooms and suites, found both in the main house and in several cottages. The private outdoor pools are filled with water from a number of mineral hot springs, all with the same restorative blend of minerals enjoyed by Native Americans centuries ago.
TEN THOUSAND WAVES: Tel 505-982-9304; www.tenthousandwaves.com. Cost: shared tubs $19; rooms from $200 (off-peak), from $240 (peak). OJO CALIENTE: Tel 800-222-9162 or 505-583-2233; www.ojospa.com. Cost: mineral springs from $16; rooms from $140 (off-peak), from $170 (peak).
A Fiesta for All Seasons
MARKETS AND FESTIVALS OF SANTA FE
Santa Fe, New Mexico, U.S.A.
On the north side of Santa Fe’s historic central plaza stands the Palace of the Governors. The oldest continuously occupied public building in the U.S., it was built in 1610 by Spanish settlers who founded the nation’s first capital. Learn about its history at the on-site New Mexico History Museum. Outside, Native Americans from throughout the state sit in the shade of the portico and sell handmade pottery, jewelry, and textiles.
The leafy plaza is the heart of Old Town Santa Fe and the site of some of the city’s most popular events, including the Santa Fe Indian Market, which draws more than 1,000 Native artists, selling everything from beadwork to baskets. The Traditional Spanish Market offers Hispanic crafts from more than 200 local artisans, as well as food and music. July brings the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market, with outstanding work by artisans from Armenia to Zimbabwe.
September’s Fiesta de Santa Fe, the oldest continuously held celebration in the country, is an exuberant, music-filled festival that overflows with crafts for sale. A highlight is the burning of Zozobra, a 50-foot effigy symbolizing the travails of the past year.
Close to the plaza are two of the city’s best upscale hotels. The Inn of the Anasazi is worth visiting for its décor and its award-winning Anasazi Restaurant. La Posada de Santa Fe Resort & Spa is a former artist colony spread, which, despite its many modern luxuries, retains an old Santa Fe feel.
Santa Fe’s vibrant cultural life is highlighted by the summer season of the Santa Fe Opera. Its striking adobe home is set on a hilltop just north of the city, with nearly 360-degree views of the mountains and desert. Opening night includes a gala celebration and tailgate parties.
PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS: Tel 505-476-5100; www.palaceofthegovernors.org. NEW MEXICO HISTORY MUSEUM: Tel 505-476-5200; www.nmhistorymuseum.org. SANTA FE INDIAN MARKET: Tel 505-983-5220; www.swaia.org. When: 3rd weekend in Aug. SPANISH MARKET: Tel 505-982-2226; www.spanishmarket.org. When: Jul and early Dec. SANTA FE INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART MARKET: Tel 505-476-1197; www.folkartmarket.org. When: mid-Jul. FIESTA DE SANTA FE: Tel 505-988-7575; www.santafefiesta.org. When: early Sep. INN OF THE ANASAZI: Tel 800-688-8100 or 505-988-3030; www.innoftheanasazi.com. Cost: from $220 (off-peak), from $425 (peak); dinner $50. LA POSADA DE SANTA FE: Tel 866-331-7625 or 505-986-0000; www.laposada.rockresorts.com. Cost: from $180 (off-peak), from $345 (peak). SANTA FE OPERA: Tel 800-280-4654 or 505-986-5900; www.santafeopera.org. When: Jul–Aug.
The Unique Flavor of the Southwest
SANTA FE’S SOUTHWEST CUISINE
Santa Fe, New Mexico, U.S.A.
While some might vote for spectacular sunsets or red-rock scenery, many would agree that there’s nothing quite as emblematic of the Southwest as its food. One bite of a blue-corn chicken enchilada covered with a piquant blend of red and green chiles, and you’re hooked.
America’s oldest indigenous cuisine is an intriguing blend of ingredients brought by its many settlers, including beans, tomatoes, rice, and corn. Chiles are a cornerstone, and New Mexico is the country’s largest grower and consumer. The question “red or green?” accompanies nearly every food order. (“Christmas” is local shorthand for both salsas.)
Start with the legendary huevos motuleños and smoked-trout hash at Café Pasqual’s, decorated with hand-painted murals and named after the Mexican patron saint of cooks. Fans come for its fusion of Old Mexican, New Mexican, and Asian flavors.
But it’s world-renowned chef Mark Miller who put the local cuisine on the national radar when he opened the Coyote Café in 1987. Today, chef Eric DiStefano still draws crowds here as well as to the less expensive Rooftop Cantina upstairs.
Come in September for the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, which culminates in the Grand Food & Wine Tasting at the Santa Fe Opera, as fall colors tint the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.
Master some of the secrets and flavors of the region at the Santa Fe School of Cooking, where you’ll make and eat delectable meals with the help of some of the city’s top chefs. And stop by the vibrant Santa Fe Farmers Market, with more than 100 vendors from 15 counties hawking everything from fruit to flowers and offering countless places to snack on Southwestern specialties. The market is a key feature of the new Santa Fe Railyard Park and Plaza, a revitalization project that has created more than 12 acres of public spaces in downtown Santa Fe.
CAFÉ PASQUAL’S: Tel 800-722-7672 or 505-983-9340; www.pasquals.com. Cost: breakfast $12. COYOTE CAFÉ: Tel 505-983-1615; www.coyotecafe.com. Cost: dinner $45; Rooftop Cantina $25. WINE & CHILE FIESTA: Tel 505-438-8060; www.santafewineandchile.org. When: late Sep. SANTA FE SCHOOL OF COOKING: Tel 800-982-4688 or 505-983-4511; www.santafeschoolofcooking.com. Cost: from $42. FARMERS MARKET: Tel 505-983-4098; www.santafefarmersmarket.com.
Extravagant Isolation, Forever Wild
THE ADIRONDACKS
New York, U.S.A.
The largest park in the continental U.S.—larger than the entire state of Massachusetts—the 6-million-acre Adirondack State Park is legally protected to remain “forever wild,” thanks to the tireless efforts of 19th-century lawyer-turned-surveyor Verplanck Colvin.
Named after mountains that are among the world’s oldest peaks, the park attracted 19th-century men with names like Whitney, Vanderbilt, and Rockefeller, who built themselves backwoods “Great Camps.” Surrounded by primeval forests, abundant wildlife, and more than 3,000 lakes and ponds, their waterfront compounds blended luxury and a rustic charm that relied on rough-hewn logs and decorative twig work, a timeless style of décor known as Adirondack.
The Point, on Upper Saranac Lake, stands on the site of William Avery Rockefeller’s Camp Wonundra and marries the tradition of the “Great Camps” with the creature comforts of today. Campers stay in one of 11 lavish guest rooms and spend idyllic days canoeing, fishing, or hiking, followed by candlelit meals with offerings from an exceptional wine list.
On the western shore of Lake Placid is the equally special (and slightly more affordable) Lake Placid Lodge. Built in 1882, it features 1920s-era lakeside cabins with stone fireplaces and huge soaking tubs. The 125-mile Jackrabbit Trail passes the lodge’s front door, for those inclined to hike.
The picturesque village of Lake Placid, site of the 1932 and 1980 Winter Olympics (and the only U.S. city to host them twice), maintains its role as “Winter Sports Capital of the World.” International athletes still train on its world-class skating rinks, ski jumps, and 30 miles of cross-country trails, all of which are also open to the non-Olympian public. Whiteface Mountain, scene of the 1980 alpine competitions, has the steepest vertical drop in the East (3,430 feet) as well as a trail system popular with families and beginners.
Perfectly tucked away on 7 sylvan acres with a private lakefront beach, Mirror Lake Inn is a 131-room white clapboard resort that is a notch
more refined than its counterparts. It is known for its signature Adirondack flapjacks, spa, the excellent View restaurant, and cozy pub.
Visit the region via the High Peaks Scenic Byway, a 48-mile stretch of Route 73 that climbs the park’s tallest mountains, including Big Slide, in the north. Stop by the Adirondack Museum at Blue Lake to see works by Thomas Cole and Winslow Homer, pretty gardens, and awe-inspiring views a Rockefeller would enjoy.
At 5,344 feet, Mount Marcy is one of the High Peaks of the Adirondacks.
WHERE: 250 miles north of New York City. VISITOR INFO: Adirondacks: www.visitadirondacks.com. Lake Placid: www.lakeplacid.com. THE POINT: Tel 800-255-3530 or 518-891-5674; www.thepointresort.com. Cost: from $1,375, all-inclusive. LAKE PLACID LODGE: Tel 877-523-2700 or 518-523-2700; www.lakeplacidlodge.com. Cost: from $575. WHITEFACE MOUNTAIN: Tel 518-946-2223; www.whiteface.com. Cost: lift tickets $74. MIRROR LAKE INN: Tel 518-523-2544; www.mirrorlakeinn.com. Cost: from $275. THE ADIRONDACK MUSEUM: Tel 518-352-7311; www.adkmuseum.org. When: late May–mid-Oct. BEST TIMES: mid-Sep for Rustic Furniture Fair at the Adirondack Museum; Sep–Oct for foliage.
A Manhattanite’s Nirvana
THE CATSKILLS
New York, U.S.A.
Since their wild beauty first captured the imagination of great painters like Thomas Cole, the Catskills have lured growing numbers of weekenders and second-home hunters from New York City, who have found these gentle mountains an easy and idyllic escape from the oppressive summer heat and workaday life.
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