Visitors who stroll the cobblestone streets of Brazil’s famous gold towns quickly discover why Minas Gerais (General Mines) is home to more UNESCO World Heritage sites than any state in Brazil. Treks into the surrounding hills can be followed by meals at atmospheric restaurants serving tasty cuisine and some of the nation’s best cachaça, a sugarcane-based liquor.
A beautifully preserved 18th-century town tucked into the mountains 2 hours east of Belo Horizonte, the state capital, Ouro Preto (“black gold”) is one of Brazil’s greatest enclaves of Baroque architecture. Like a stage set of decorative wrought-iron balconies, pastel-colored mansions, and steep cobblestone streets, the town is home to 13 Baroque churches harking back to Brazil’s gold boom.
The name and work of native son Antônio Francisco Lisboa, the architect and sculptor known as Aleijadinho, aka the “Little Cripple,” is synonymous with Ouro Preto. Deformed and so debilitated at the age of 40 that his assistants had to tie his chisels to his hands, he went on to become Brazil’s premier Baroque sculptor, and Ouro Preto was his showcase. The church of São Francisco de Assis, begun in 1766, is his most masterful solo project. Almost all the sculptures in the church are his, including those carved directly onto the ceiling. Next door is one of the town’s best places to stay, the finely furnished 18th-century Pousada do Mondego, some of whose 24 rooms have views of the church and city rooftops. Continue your tour of the city’s churches at the lavish Nossa Senhora de Pilar, with more than 1,000 pounds of locally mined gold used in homage to the Madonna.
While Ouro Preto was the affluent 19th-century provincial capital, Tiradentes, 140 miles to the south, remained remote and rustic, much as it is today. Situated between the picturesque Rio das Mortes and the Atlantic forest at the foot of the mighty Serra São José mountain, this town of 6,000 residents and nine winding streets has seven impressive Baroque churches and a lost-in-time charm. A smattering of contemporary art studios, galleries, and small but top-notch restaurants have made the town a favored weekend getaway for visitors from Rio and Belo Horizonte.
Mineira cuisine is among the most popular in the nation, a rich blend of Portuguese, African, and indigenous flavors. Traditional dishes like frango ao molho pardo (chicken with a brown gravy-like sauce) are served at Viradas do Largo—also called Restaurante da Beth, after the owner and chef. Aficionados of cachaça head to Confidências Mineiras, a candlelit restaurant and bar that carries some 500 artisanal brands. The charming Solar da Ponte is a rustic but elegant country inn with an airy dining room that overlooks landscaped gardens.
WHERE: Ouro Preto is 250 miles/400 km north of Rio de Janiero. POUSADA DO MONDEGO: Tel 55/31-3551-2040; www.mondego.com.br. Cost: from $135. VIRADAS DO LARGO: Tel 55/32-3355-111. Cost: dinner $25. CONFIDÊNCIAS MINEIRAS: 55/32-3355-2770. Cost: dinner $40. SOLAR DA PONTE: Tel 55/32-355-1255; www.solardaponte.com.br. Cost: from $315. HOW: U.S.-based Borello Travel & Tours offers a 5-day trip to Belo Horizonte and Ouro Preto. Tel 800-405-3072 or 212-686-4911; www.borellotravel.com. Cost: from $2,000. BEST TIMES: Nov–Apr for good weather. In Tiradentes: Apr 21 for Tiradentes Day; Aug for a culinary festival.
Color and Culture at the Mouth of the Amazon
BELÉM’S OLD CITY
Belém, Pará, Brazil
Founded by the Portuguese in 1616, Belém benefited greatly from its strategic location at the meeting of the Amazon River and the Atlantic Ocean. It was here that locals first showed colonials the Amazon’s bounty, resulting in the rubber boom of the late 1800s that brought fabulous wealth to the city. You’ll see vestiges of those days in Cidade Velha (Old City), Belém’s oldest neighborhood, a mélange of faded elegance and revitalization.
Belém—Portuguese for Bethlehem—is the Amazon’s most historic city. For centuries the boats sailing down from the depths of the Amazon have unloaded their goods at the noisy and chaotic daily market known as Vero-Peso, for the colonial-era sales pitch “See the weight!” The main attraction of the market—one of the country’s largest—is its cornucopia of the Amazon’s most unusual kinds of fish (piranha!), meat (armadillo), vegetables, and ice cream, which is made from exotic rain-forest fruits like cupuaçu and açaí. Next to the market, a group of 19th-century warehouses have in recent years been reborn as Estação das Docas, a complex of modern boutiques, galleries, and restaurants.
Taste the region’s blend of European and African influences at Lá Em Casa, a good place to try the city’s premier dish, pato no tucupi, duck in an aromatic herb sauce. Market-fresh fish is on the menu at the Manjar da Garças, scenically set in a thatch-roofed bungalow at the river’s edge, inside the Mangal das Garças ecological park.
Belém is especially known for October’s unique Cirio de Nazaré, the largest and most important religious festival in the North. More than one million people join the 5-hour procession honoring the Virgem de Nazaré (Virgin of Nazareth), who is said to be responsible for many miracles here.
Get away on a 3-hour boat ride that takes you to Ilha de Marajó, the world’s largest river island and home to dense vegetation, water buffaloes, caimans, monkeys, and seemingly endless flocks of colorful birds. Fazenda Sanjo, a 50-minute boat ride from the ferry dock in the delightful small town of Soure, is a family-run buffalo ranch that provides a comfortably rustic experience: Guests ride water buffaloes and horses and take guided trail walks.
WHERE: 1,227 miles/1,974 km north of Rio. LÁ EM CASA: Tel 55/91-223-1212; www.laemcasa.com. Cost: dinner $25. MANJAR DA GARÇAS: Tel 55/91-3242-1056; www.manjardasgarcas.com.br. Cost: dinner $25. WHERE TO STAY: Crowne Plaza Belém is the city’s newest and best choice. Tel 55/91-3202-2000; in the U.S., 877-227-6963; www.crownebelem.com.br. Cost: from $310. FAZENDA SANJO: Tel 55/91-3228-1385; www.sanjo.tur.br. Cost: $225 per person for 2 nights, all-inclusive. BEST TIME: Jun–Nov is less rainy.
Island Paradise of Dolphin Ballets and Spectacular Beaches
FERNANDO DE NORONHA
Pernambuco, Brazil
One of the last great, little-visited ecotourist destinations, the impossibly beautiful archipelago of Fernando de Noronha promises an unusual, Galápagos-like experience with Brazilian flair. With about 75 percent of its territory designated a national marine park (Brazil’s first), its waters provide an ecological sanctuary to hundreds of species of wildlife.
This 21-island paradise also offers some of the world’s best diving and snorkeling, with year-round visibility that can surpass 100 feet, and miles of pristine beaches (praias). Colorful coral, manta rays, and 14 species of sharks can be found here, as well as a community of more than 600 whitebelly spinner dolphins which has made the Baía dos Golfinhos (Dolphin Bay) its home since the 1700s. The dolphins’ famous acrobatics can be glimpsed during boat excursions or from the bay’s escarpments.
A rented dune buggy is the best way to tour the hilly, 10-square-mile main (and only inhabited) island, Ilha Fernando de Noronha. Bumping along the beautiful coastline, you’ll come upon the beach at Baía do Sueste, where the shallow, calm waters are ideal for families and snorkelers, who might find sea turtles swimming alongside them at high tide. If you prefer to surf, head to Cacimba do Padre, a beach that hosts surf championships and boasts waves up to 12 feet between December and March. And for gorgeous seclusion, brave the iron ladders scaling sheer, 100-foot red-rock cliffs to Baía do Sancho. Tidal pools at Praia do Atalaia are perfect for snorkeling.
Celebrity sightings, limited accommodations, and restrictions on the number of visitors have only added to the islands’ allure, keeping prices high and requiring reservations far in advance. The top lodging is Pousada Maravilha, a minimalist eco-chic hideaway; guests sway in hammocks outside their private bungalows or gaze at the horseshoe-shaped Baía do Sueste from the infinity pool at the main lodge. Close by, the somewhat more modest Solar dos Ventos is within walking distance of the beach and claims some of the most spectacular views on the island. The best of the limited dining options are Palhoça da Colina and Restaurante Ekologiku, the latter known for its delicious moquecas (coconut
-based seafood stews).
The island’s highest point, Morro do Pico, can be seen from anywhere on Fernando de Noronha.
WHERE: 223 miles/360 km northeast of Natal. HOW: Atlantis Divers offers a variety of diving packages. Tel 55/84-3206-8840; www.atlantisdivers.com.br. In the U.S., Marnella Tours offers a variety of tour options. Tel 866-993-0033 or 919-782-1664; www.marnellatours.com. POUSADA MARAVILHA: Tel 55/81-3619-0028; www.pousadamaravilha.com.br. Cost: from $715, inclusive. POUSADA SOLAR DOS VENTOS: Tel 55/81-3619-1347; www.pousadasolardosventos.com.br. Cost: from $535 (off-peak), from $625 (peak). BEST TIMES: Oct–Apr for best weather; Dec–Mar for surfing and championships; Sep for International Regatta Recife; Oct for best underwater visibility.
The Rich Musical Traditions of the Northeast
RECIFE AND OLINDA
Pernambuco, Brazil
The developed waterfront city of Recife and its more tranquil colonial neighbor, Olinda, are home to some of Brazil’s most fascinating music and dance traditions, best seen during festivals that are held throughout the year. Recife, which still bears signs of its early Dutch roots, is the cultural and gastronomic hub of Brazil’s northeast, and home to the 4-mile-long, palm-lined Boa Viagem, an attractive beach by urban standards and the location of some of the city’s best eating and drinking spots. Indulge in freshly caught seafood while enjoying ocean views at Bargaço. After dark, you’ll find some great settings to hear live bands here as well as in Recife Antigo, a historic neighborhood whose narrow streets and cobblestoned squares are lined with shops, bars, nightclubs, and restaurants set in centuries-old town houses.
Make time to admire the fanciful work of Brazil’s most famous ceramic artist at the workshop/museum called Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand just outside the city center.
Only 10 minutes from Recife (and perched on a series of hilltops overlooking it) sits this city’s historic and artsy counterpart, the charming enclave of Olinda. It was founded in 1537 by Portuguese nobleman Duarte Coelho, who supposedly uttered “O, linda . . . !” (“Oh, beautiful . . . !”) upon first sight. And the city’s collection of Baroque architecture ensures that its reputation continues as one of the prettiest colonial cities in Brazil. The Igreja da Sé (Church of the See), built in 1537, offers excellent views, but the greatest architectural treasure is the Mosteiro (Monastery) de São Bento, which dates to 1582 and has a 46-foot Baroque altar gilded to its last square inch. A walk down Rua do Amparo leads past colorful former homes that now serve as ateliers for artists and artisans. Nestled among them is the Pousada do Amparo, set in two Colonial buildings. Antique furniture, a gorgeous garden with views over the town, and the romantic Flor de Coco, one of Olinda’s best restaurants, are among its highlights.
The pre-Lenten Carnaval celebrations in Recife and Olinda are among the most exuberant—and longest—in the nation. This is the time to experience a multiplicity of music and dance styles that blend European, African, and indigenous elements. Among them are forró (featuring accordion, triangle, and a drum called the zabumba), the fast-paced, brassy frevo (its name comes from the Portuguese word ferver, to boil, which makes instant sense upon seeing whirling dancers), and dazzlingly costumed maracatu nação groups (which hark back to an 18th-century slave tradition). Olinda’s Carnaval is still free of the commercialized feel of Rio’s celebration, and people of all ages, colors, and inclinations fill the streets and plazas to celebrate it, joining in parades behind the enormous trademark bonecos (papier-mâché dolls) and dancing to afoxé (an Afro-Brazilian musical genre) and the Brazilian samba.
For post-Carnaval recuperation, head an hour south to the former fishing village of Porto de Galinhas, renowned for its white sand beaches. In the town’s charming pedestrian center you’ll find a cluster of shops and good restaurants, such as Beijupira. Don’t let its funky ambience fool you: The kitchen is serious about such creative fare as camarulu—shrimp brushed with a sugarcane glaze in a passion-fruit sauce. For lodgings, head a few miles out to either of two beachfront inns, Tabapitanga or its less expensive sister property, Tabajuba. Rooms at both are spacious and colorful, and the vibe is friendly, relaxed, and romantic.
WHERE: 1,165 miles/1,874 km northeast of Rio. RESTAURANTE BARGAÇO: Tel 55/81-3465-1847; www.restaurantebargaco.com.br. Cost: dinner $40. OFICINA CERMICA: www.brennand.com.br. POUSADA DO AMPARO: Tel 55/81-3439-1749. Cost: from $125 (off-peak), from $195 (peak). BEIJUPIRA: Tel 55/81-3552-2354; www.beijupira.com.br. Cost: dinner $35. TABAPITANGA and TABAJUBA: Tel 55/81-3352-1037; www.tabapitanga.com.br and www.tabajuba.com. Cost: from $85 (off-peak), from $135 (peak). BEST TIMES: Sep–Apr are driest; Feb or Mar for Carnaval; late Oct–Nov for Recifolia, an off-season Carnaval in Recife; late Nov–early Dec for Arte em Toda Parte, an art festival in Olinda.
The World’s Most Decadent Party
CARNAVAL!
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Say “Carnaval” and the world thinks Rio de Janeiro. Each year, in the weeks before Lent, the whole city becomes a stage and throws one of the world’s great free-for-all street parties. What began as a pre-Lenten celebration has grown into a series of street parties, masquerades, and samba parades during the height of Rio’s summer, beginning at least a week before the official event, which runs from the Friday before Ash Wednesday until Shrove (Fat) Tuesday.
Rio’s more than 70 samba “schools” (neighborhood social groups, not educational institutions) spend the entire year preparing for this moment, and many open to visitors beginning in September for those who come outside of Carnaval season. For those who come for the Carnaval itself, though, the centerpiece is the samba parades, made up of lavishly costumed troupes and over-the-top floats from Grupo Especial (the 12 top-tier schools)—each accompanied by a pounding, 150-member-strong drum corps—who perform and compete on the Sunday and Monday before Ash Wednesday. The parades are televised from 9 P.M. to dawn, at the filled-to-capacity, 75,000-seat Sambódromo (a stadium built specifically for this purpose). Here, the flamboyantly—often scantily—dressed teams fill the air with music, passion, and unbridled frenzy as they compete for the year’s coveted championship.
Indoor samba balls (often attended by guests in full costume) are held in nightclubs, bars, and some hotels around town. But the most authentic experience of all is to join the open-air concerts and tag-along bands that snake through the beachside neighborhoods of Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon and the hilltop Bohemian district of Santa Teresa, forming a kind of citywide street party. A glitzy and outrageous bacchanal of flesh and fantasy, Rio’s Carnaval is not for the prudish or crowd-fearing.
For those who want to escape the chaos of Carnaval, there’s the grand Copacabana Palace, which hosts the most exclusive black-tie ball in Rio. Built in 1923, “The Palace” overlooks the famous beach from which it takes its name, and its elegant pool makes a beautiful setting for a dip or an afternoon caipirinha, while its top-rated restaurants serve excellent meals. This was the backdrop for Flying Down to Rio, the 1933 film that first paired Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers; the movie made the Palace a Hollywood favorite. The myth of yesteryear lives on in the ornate Golden Room; its famous glass dance floor, lit from below, is where the famous Magic Ball takes place during Carnaval.
Lavish costumes are a Carnaval tradition.
VISITOR INFO: www.rcvb.com.br. WHEN: Carnaval begins in the weeks before Ash Wednesday (Feb or Mar), culminating the Thurs–Tues before Ash Wednesday. HOW: Some Rio-based travel agencies and high-end hotels can help arrange tickets to the parade or private balls. COPACABANA PALACE: Tel 55/21-2548-7070; www.copacabanapalace.com.br. Cost: $7,805 for 5 nights (minimum) during Carnaval; from $430 the rest of the year. Magic Ball tickets from $1,199.
Surf, Sand, and Samba in the Cidade Maravilhosa
COPACABANA AND IPANEMA
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
With 45 miles of glorious beaches fringing Guanabara Bay, Rio de Janeiro is famed for its magnificent setting, a combination of tropical beauty and big-city excitement. Its beachside nei
ghborhoods are as known for their individual character and energy as for their natural beauty.
Hectic, democratic, and glorious, Copacabana is 2.5 miles long, lined with hotels, apartments, and open-air restaurants. Sun-lovers take to the sands for pickup soccer and volleyball games, jogging and cycling along the beach path, frolicking in the waves, or simply soaking up rays with a cold agua de coco (coconut water) in hand.
Ipanema, immortalized in the 1960s by Antônio Carlos Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes in their famous bossa nova hit, “The Girl from Ipanema,” is Rio’s most sophisticated beach. It’s a showcase for gorgeous bodies, dental-floss swimwear, and hedonistic attitudes to match. The beach is divided into postos, or sections—visit Posto 9 to bask with local bathing beauties, or more sedate Posto 12 in neighboring Leblon for a family outing. Designer boutiques, parks, and outdoor cafés beckon within a few blocks of the sand.
To fully understand why cariocas (Rio residents) call their city the “cidade maravilhosa” (marvelous city), head for the hills. The mesmerizing, 360-degree panorama from atop Corcovado Mountain puts Rio de Janeiro’s heart-stopping beauty at your feet: a unique, overpowering tableau of curving beaches, skyscrapers, and dense rain forest–covered mountains. Corcovado’s summit is crowned by the city’s legendary symbol, a 124-foot-high soapstone figure of Christ, his outstretched arms measuring 98 feet across. The passenger train to the summit makes its steep 2.3-mile ascent through leafy Tijuca National Park, the world’s largest urban park—an 8,151-acre forest with blue morpho butterflies the size of salad plates and dozens of waterfalls.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 159
