by Daniel Defoe
up in stormy weather from the sea; others say it is by sands washed
from the lead-mines in the hills; the last of which, by the way, I
take to be a mistake, the sand from the hills being not of quantity
sufficient to fill up the channel of a navigable river, and, if it
had, might easily have been stopped by the townspeople from falling
into the river. But that the sea has choked up the river with sand
is not only probable, but true; and there are other rivers which
suffer in the like manner in this same country.
This town of Lostwithiel retains, however, several advantages which
support its figure--as, first, that it is one of the Coinage Towns,
as I call them; or Stannary Towns, as others call them; (2) the
common gaol for the whole Stannary is here, as are also the County
Courts for the whole county of Cornwall.
There is a mock cavalcade kept up at this town, which is very
remarkable. The particulars, as they are related by Mr. Carew in
his "Survey of Cornwall," take as follows:-
"Upon Little Easter Sunday the freeholders of this town and manor,
by themselves or their deputies, did there assemble; amongst whom
one (as it fell to his lot by turn), bravely apparelled, gallantly
mounted, with a crown on his head, a sceptre in his hand, and a
sword borne before him, and dutifully attended by all the rest
(also on horseback), rode through the principal street to the
church. The curate in his best beseen solemnly received him at the
churchyard stile, and conducted him to hear divine service. After
which he repaired, with the same pomp, to a house provided for that
purpose, made a feast to his attendants, kept the table's-end
himself, and was served with kneeling assay and all other rights
due to the estate of a prince; with which dinner the ceremony
ended, and every man returned home again. The pedigree of this
usage is derived from so many descents of ages that the cause and
author outreach the remembrance. Howbeit, these circumstances
afford a conjecture that it should betoken royalties appertaining
to the honour of Cornwall."
Behind Foy and nearer to the coast, at the mouth of a small river
which some call Lowe, though without any authority, there stand two
towns opposite to one another bearing the name of the River Looe--
that is to say, distinguished by the addition of East Looe and West
Looe. These are both good trading towns, and especially fishing
towns; and, which is very particular, are (like Weymouth and
Melcombe, in Dorsetshire) separated only by the creek or river, and
yet each of them sends members to Parliament. These towns are
joined together by a very beautiful and stately stone bridge having
fifteen arches.
East Looe was the ancienter corporation of the two, and for some
ages ago the greater and more considerable town; but now they tell
us West Looe is the richest, and has the most ships belonging to
it. Were they put together, they would make a very handsome
seaport town. They have a great fishing trade here, as well for
supply of the country as for merchandise, and the towns are not
despisable. But as to sending four members to the British
Parliament (which is as many as the City of London chooses), that,
I confess, seems a little scandalous; but to whom, is none of my
business to inquire.
Passing from hence, and ferrying over Foy River or the River Foweth
(call it as you please), we come into a large country without many
towns in it of note, but very well furnished with gentlemen's
seats, and a little higher up with tin-works.
The sea making several deep bays here, they who travel by land are
obliged to go higher into the country to pass above the water,
especially at Trewardreth Bay, which lies very broad, above ten
miles within the country, which passing at Trewardreth (a town of
no great note, though the bay takes its name from it), the next
inlet of the sea is the famous firth or inlet called Falmouth
Haven. It is certainly, next to Milford Haven in South Wales, the
fairest and best road for shipping that is in the whole isle of
Britain, whether be considered the depth of water for above twenty
miles within land; the safety of riding, sheltered from all kind of
winds or storms; the good anchorage; and the many creeks, all
navigable, where ships may run in and be safe; so that the like is
nowhere to be found.
There are six or seven very considerable places upon this haven and
the rivers from it--viz., Grampound, Tregony, Truro, Penryn,
Falmouth, St. Maws, and Pendennis. The three first of these send
members to Parliament. The town of Falmouth, as big as all the
three, and richer than ten of them, sends none; which imports no
more than this--that Falmouth itself is not of so great antiquity
as to its rising as those other towns are; and yet the whole haven
takes its name from Falmouth, too, unless, as some think, the town
took its name from the haven, which, however, they give no
authority to suggest.
St. Maws and Pendennis are two fortifications placed at the points
or entrance of this haven, opposite to one another, though not with
a communication or view; they are very strong--the first
principally by sea, having a good platform of guns pointing athwart
the Channel, and planted on a level with the water. But Pendennis
Castle is strong by land as well as by water, is regularly
fortified, has good out-works, and generally a strong garrison.
St. Maws, otherwise called St. Mary's, has a town annexed to the
castle, and is a borough sending members to the Parliament.
Pendennis is a mere fortress, though there are some habitations in
it, too, and some at a small distance near the seaside, but not of
any great consideration.
The town of Falmouth is by much the richest and best trading town
in this county, though not so ancient as its neighbour town of
Truro; and indeed is in some things obliged to acknowledge the
seigniority--namely, that in the corporation of Truro the person
whom they choose to be their Mayor of Truro is also Mayor of
Falmouth of course. How the jurisdiction is managed is an account
too long for this place. The Truro-men also receive several duties
collected in Falmouth, particularly wharfage for the merchandises
landed or shipped off; but let these advantages be what they will,
the town of Falmouth has gotten the trade--at least, the best part
of it--from the other, which is chiefly owing to the situation.
For that Falmouth lying upon the sea, but within the entrance,
ships of the greatest burthen come up to the very quays, and the
whole Royal Navy might ride safely in the road; whereas the town of
Truro lying far within, and at the mouth of two fresh rivers, is
not navigable for vessels of above 150 tons or thereabouts.
Some have suggested that the original of Falmouth was the having so
large a quay, and so good a depth of water at it. The merchants of
Truro formerly used it for the place of lading and unlading their
> ships, as the merchants of Exeter did at Topsham; and this is the
more probable in that, as above, the wharfage of those landing-
places is still the property of the corporation of Truro.
But let this be as it will, the trade is now in a manner wholly
gone to Falmouth, the trade at Truro being now chiefly (if not
only) for the shipping off of block tin and copper ore, the latter
being lately found in large quantities in some of the mountains
between Truro and St. Michael's, and which is much improved since
the several mills are erected at Bristol and other parts for the
manufactures of battery ware, as it is called (brass), or which is
made out of English copper, most of it duct in these parts--the ore
itself ago being found very rich and good.
Falmouth is well built, has abundance of shipping belonging to it,
is full of rich merchants, and has a flourishing and increasing
trade. I say "increasing," because by the late setting up the
English packets between this port and Lisbon, there is a new
commerce between Portugal and this town carried on to a very great
value.
It is true, part of this trade was founded in a clandestine
commerce carried on by the said packets at Lisbon, where, being the
king's ships, and claiming the privilege of not being searched or
visited by the Custom House officers, they found means to carry off
great quantities of British manufactures, which they sold on board
to the Portuguese merchants, and they conveyed them on shore, as it
is supposed, without paying custom.
But the Government there getting intelligence of it, and complaint
being made in England also, where it was found to be very
prejudicial to the fair merchant, that trade has been effectually
stopped. But the Falmouth merchants, having by this means gotten a
taste of the Portuguese trade, have maintained it ever since in
ships of their own. These packets bring over such vast quantities
of gold in specie, either in MOIDORES (which is the Portugal coin)
or in bars of gold, that I am very credibly informed the carrier
from Falmouth brought by land from thence to London at one time, in
the month of January, 1722, or near it, eighty thousand MOIDORES in
gold, which came from Lisbon in the packet-boats for account of the
merchants at London, and that it was attended with a guard of
twelve horsemen well armed, for which the said carrier had half per
cent. for his hazard.
This is a specimen of the Portugal trade, and how considerable it
is in itself, as well as how advantageous to England; but as that
is not to the present case, I proceed. The Custom House for all
the towns in this port, and the head collector, is established at
this town, where the duties (including the other ports) is very
considerable. Here is also a very great fishing for pilchards; and
the merchants for Falmouth have the chief stroke in that gainful
trade.
Truro is, however, a very considerable town, too. It stands up the
water north and by east from Falmouth, in the utmost extended
branch of the Avon, in the middle between the conflux of two
rivers, which, though not of any long course, have a very good
appearance for a port, and make it large wharf between them in the
front of the town. And the water here makes a good port for small
ships, though it be at the influx, but not for ships of burthen.
This is the particular town where the Lord-Warden of the Stannaries
always holds his famous Parliament of miners, and for stamping of
tin. The town is well built, but shows that it has been much
fuller, both of houses and inhabitants, than it is now; nor will it
probably ever rise while the town of Falmouth stands where it does,
and while the trade is settled in it as it is. There are at least
three churches in it, but no Dissenters' meeting-house that I could
hear of.
Tregony is upon the same water north-east from Falmouth--distance
about fifteen miles from it--but is a town of very little trade;
nor, indeed, have any of the towns, so far within the shore,
notwithstanding the benefit of the water, any considerable trade
but what is carried on under the merchants of Falmouth or Truro.
The chief thing that is to be said of this town is that it sends
members to Parliament, as does also Grampound, a market-town; and
Burro', about four miles farther up the water. This place, indeed,
has a claim to antiquity, and is an appendix to the Duchy of
Cornwall, of which it holds at a fee farm rent and pays to the
Prince of Wales as duke 10 pounds 11s. 1d. per annum. It has no
parish church, but only a chapel-of-ease to an adjacent parish.
Penryn is up the same branch of the Avon as Falmouth, but stands
four miles higher towards the west; yet ships come to it of as
great a size as can come to Truro itself. It is a very pleasant,
agreeable town, and for that reason has many merchants in it, who
would perhaps otherwise live at Falmouth. The chief commerce of
these towns, as to their sea-affairs, is the pilchards and
Newfoundland fishing, which is very profitable to them all. It had
formerly a conventual church, with a chantry and a religious house
(a cell to Kirton); but they are all demolished, and scarce the
ruins of them distinguishable enough to know one part from another.
Quitting Falmouth Haven from Penryn West, we came to Helston, about
seven miles, and stands upon the little River Cober, which,
however, admits the sea so into its bosom as to make a tolerable
good harbour for ships a little below the town. It is the fifth
town allowed for the coining tin, and several of the ships called
tin-ships are laden here.
This town is large and populous, and has four spacious streets, a
handsome church, and a good trade. This town also sends members to
Parliament. Beyond this is a market-town, though of no resort for
trade, called Market Jew. It lies, indeed, on the seaside, but has
no harbour or safe road for shipping.
At Helford is a small but good harbour between Falmouth and this
port, where many times the tin-ships go in to load for London; also
here are a good number of fishing vessels for the pilchard trade,
and abundance of skilful fishermen. It was from this town that in
the great storm which happened November 27, 1703, a ship laden with
tin was blown out to sea and driven to the Isle of Wight in seven
hours, having on board only one man and two boys. The story is as
follows:-
"The beginning of the storm there lay a ship laden with tin in
Helford Haven, about two leagues and a half west of Falmouth. The
tin was taken on board at a place called Guague Wharf, five or six
miles up the river, and the vessel was come down to Helford in
order to pursue her voyage to London.
"About eight o'clock in the evening the commander, whose name was
Anthony Jenkins, went on board with his mate to see that everything
was safe, and to give orders, but went both on shore again, leaving
only a man and two boys on board
, not apprehending any danger, they
being in safe harbour. However, he ordered them that if it should
blow hard they should carry out the small bower anchor, and so to
moor the ship by two anchors, and then giving what other orders he
thought to be needful, he went ashore, as above.
"About nine o'clock, the wind beginning to blow harder, they
carried out the anchor, according to the master's order; but the
wind increasing about ten, the ship began to drive, so they carried
out their best bower, which, having a good new cable, brought the
ship up. The storm still increasing, they let go the kedge anchor;
so that they then rode by four anchors ahead, which were all they
had.
"But between eleven and twelve o'clock the wind came about west and
by south, and blew in so violent and terrible a manner that, though
they rode under the lee of a high shore, yet the ship was driven
from all her anchors, and about midnight drove quite out of the
harbour (the opening of the harbour lying due east and west) into
the open sea, the men having neither anchor or cable or boat to
help themselves.
"In this dreadful condition (they driving, I say, out of the
harbour) their first and chief care was to go clear of the rocks
which lie on either side the harbour's mouth, and which they
performed pretty well. Then, seeing no remedy, they consulted what
to do next. They could carry no sail at first--no, not a knot; nor
do anything but run away afore it. The only thing they had to
think on was to keep her out at sea as far as they could, for fear
of a point of land called the Dead Man's Head, which lies to the
eastward of Falmouth Haven; and then, if they could escape the
land, thought to run in for Plymouth next morning, so, if possible,
to save their lives.
"In this frighted condition they drove away at a prodigious rate,
having sometimes the bonnet of their foresail a little out, but the
yard lowered almost to the deck--sometimes the ship almost under
water, and sometimes above, keeping still in the offing, for fear
of the land, till they might see daylight. But when the day broke
they found they were to think no more of Plymouth, for they were
far enough beyond it; and the first land they made was Peverel
Point, being the southernmost land of the Isle of Purbeck, in
Dorsetshire, and a little to the westward of the Isle of Wight; so
that now they were in a terrible consternation, and driving still
at a prodigious rate. By seven o'clock they found themselves
broadside of the Isle of Wight.
"Here they consulted again what to do to save their lives. One of
the boys was for running her into the Downs; but the man objected
that, having no anchor or cable nor boat to go on shore with, and
the storm blowing off shore in the Downs, they should be inevitably
blown off and lost upon the unfortunate Goodwin--which, it seems,
the man had been on once before and narrowly escaped.
"Now came the last consultation for their lives. The other of the
boys said he had been in a certain creek in the Isle of Wight,
where, between the rocks, he knew there was room to run the ship
in, and at least to save their lives, and that he saw the place
just that moment; so he desired the man to let him have the helm,
and he would do his best and venture it. The man gave him the
helm, and he stood directly in among the rocks, the people standing
on the shore thinking they were mad, and that they would in a few
minutes be dashed in a thousand pieces.
"But when they came nearer, and the people found they steered as if
they knew the place, they made signals to them to direct them as
well as they could, and the young bold fellow run her into a small
cove, where she stuck fast, as it were, between the rocks on both
sides, there being but just room enough for the breadth of the
ship. The ship indeed, giving two or three knocks, staved and
sunk, but the man and the two youths jumped ashore and were safe;
