The parallel Th Setthathirath (which is home to several famous temples) and Th Samsènethai are the main streets in central Vientiane. Heading northwest they both eventually lead to Th Luang Prabang and Rte 13 north. In the other direction they run perpendicular to and eventually cross Th Lan Xang, a major boulevard leading from the presidential palace past Talat Sao (Morning Market) to Patuxai (Victory Gate) and, after turning into Th Phon Kheng, to Rte 13 south and the Southern Bus Station.
The meuang of Vientiane are broken up into bâan (Ban), which are neighbourhoods or villages associated with local wats. Wattay International Airport, for example, is in Ban Wat Tai, the area in which Wat Tai is located.
8Information
Courses
The Institut Français ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-215764; www.if-laos.org; Th Lan Xang; h8.15am-6.15pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat; W) has French and Lao language classes (as well as a busy schedule of movies, musical and theatrical performances).
Dangers & Annoyances
By international standards Vientiane has a very low crime rate, but there's a small risk of getting mugged. Be especially careful around the BCEL Bank on the riverfront where bag-snatchers, usually a two-man team with a motorbike, have been known to strike; common sense should be an adequate defence. Violent crime against visitors is extremely rare, but watch out for commando ladyboys on Th Setthathirath close to midnight, as locals suggest they are very experienced at helping drunks part with their wallets.
Also stay off the city's roads during festivals, particularly Pi Mai, when drunk-driving-related accidents skyrocket. Pickpocketing also occurs more frequently then.
Call the Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-251128; Th Lan Xang) if you need to talk to an English-speaking police officer.
Emergency & Important Numbers
Ambulance 1195
Fire 1190
Police 1191
Tourist Police 021-251128
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
While Lao culture is very tolerant of homosexuality, it’s a pretty low-key scene compared to neighbouring Thailand. Vientiane is the most liberal city in the country, but it’s also the political capital, and there are only a handful of gay venues in the city. Visit www.utopia-asia.com/laosvien.htm for Vientiane services and venues.
Internet Access
Wi-fi is now available at most of Vientiane's guesthouses, hotels, cafes and restaurants.
There's a row of internet cafes ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per hour 6000K; h9am-11pm) on the north side of Th Setthathirath between Nam Phu (the fountain) and Th Manthatourath, open from 9am to 11pm and charging about 6000K an hour. The Oriental Bookshop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-215352; 121 Th Chao Anou; per hour 5000K; h10am-8pm) offers several computers with internet access.
Maps
AHobo Maps (www.hobomaps.com) has probably the best generally available map of the city. Pick up a copy at bookshops or Phimphone Market.
Midnight MapperTOURIST INFORMATION
(%020-58656994; [email protected])
It might sound like an old Stones song but the Midnight Mapper, aka Don Duvall, has tirelessly mapped Laos over the last 10 years to produce the most in-depth, accurate GPS map available. This is a blessing for motorcyclists and cyclists alike who might otherwise get lost if heading off the beaten track.
Hire one of his handheld Garmin GPS devices for US$7 per day or buy his Laos GPS map to load on your own gadget for US$50.
Media
Laos' only English-language newspaper is the government-run Vientiane Times. Hopelessly state censored, it does, however, feature stories on Laos' commercial relations with China and other foreign countries, detailing mining and hydroelectric-power developments. French-speakers should look for Le Rénovateur.
Medical Services
Vientiane's medical facilities can leave a lot to be desired, so for anything serious make a break for the border and the much more sophisticated hospitals in Thailand. Aek Udon International Hospital in Thailand can dispatch an ambulance to take you to Udon Thani. Less serious ailments can be dealt with in Vientiane.
Alliance International Medical Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-513095; www.aimclao.com; Th Luang Prabang) This hospital is fresh and clean, and treats basic ailments like broken bones and dispenses antibiotics.
Australian Embassy Clinic ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-353840; Th Tha Deua; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) For nationals of Australia, Britain, Canada, Papua New Guinea and New Zealand only. This clinic's Australian doctor treats minor problems by appointment; it doesn't have emergency facilities. Accepts cash or credit cards.
Centre Médical de L'Ambassade de France (French Embassy Medical Center; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214150; cnr Th Khu Vieng & Th Simeuang; h8.30am-noon & 4.30-7pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 1.30-5pm Wed, 9am-noon Sat) Open to all, but visits outside regular hours by appointment only.
International Clinic ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214021; Th Fa Ngoum; h24hr) Part of the Mahasot Hospital; probably the best place for not-too-complex emergencies. Some English-speaking doctors. Take ID and cash.
Poppy's Pharmacy & Beauty ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9810108; Th Hengboun; h8am-10pm) Bright and clean, this modern, well-stocked pharmacy is great for toiletries, cosmetics, sun cream, malaria pills (not Larium), and sleeping tablets for long bus journeys.
Setthathirat Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-351156) Thanks to a recent overhaul by the Japanese, this hospital northeast of the city is another option for minor ailments.
Money
There are plenty of banks and licensed moneychangers in the capital.
Banks
Banks listed here change cash and travellers cheques and issue cash advances (mostly in kip, but occasionally in US dollars and Thai baht) against Visa and/or MasterCard. Many now have ATMs that work with foreign cards, but it's often cheaper to get a cash advance manually.
ANZ ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-222700; 33 Th Lan Xang; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Main branch has two ATMs and can provide cash advances on Visa or MasterCard for a flat fee of 45,000K. Additional ATMs can be found on Th Setthathirath and Th Fa Ngoum.
Bank of Ayudhya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214575; 79/6 Th Lan Xang; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Cash advances on Visa cards here carry a 1.5% commission.
Banque pour le Commerce Extérieur Lao (BCEL; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Pangkham & Th Fa Ngoum; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun) Best rates; longest hours. Exchange booth on Th Fa Ngoum and three ATMs attached to the main building.
Joint Development Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 75/1-5 Th Lan Xang; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Usually charges the lowest commission on cash advances. Also has an ATM.
Krung Thai Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-213480; Th Lan Xang; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Also has an exchange booth ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Fa Ngoum) on Th Fa Ngoum.
Lao-Viet Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214377; Th Lan Xang; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM and money exchange.
Siam Commercial Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 117 Th Lan Xang; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) ATM and cash advances on Visa.
Thai Military Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-216486; cnr Th Samsènethai & Th Khounboulom; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Cash advance on Visa only for 200B.
Changing Money
Licensed money-changing booths can be found in much of central Vientiane, particularly along Th Setthathirath between Th François Ngin and Th Pangkham. You can also change cash at various shops, hotels or markets for no commission but at poor rates.
Opening Hours
AGovernment offices 8am–noon and 1pm–5pm weekdays
AShops 9am–6pm
ARestaurants 10am–10pm
ANoodle shops 7am–5pm
ABars and clubs 5pm–1am
Post
Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22206362; Th Saylom; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat & Sun) Come here for post restante, stamps, wiring money and courier service.
Telephone
International calls can be made from most internet cafes, although it's better to use Skype or WhatsApp via a wi-fi link if you have yo
ur own mobile device. Local calls can be made from any hotel lobby, often for free.
For cheaper local calls have your mobile unlocked and buy a pay-as-you-go SIM card. Tigo and M-Phone top-up cards are widely available.
Lao Telecom Namphu Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirath; h9am-7pm) has international faxing, and domestic and international calls.
Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre (NTAL; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-212248; www.ecotourismlaos.com; Th Lan Xang; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-4pm) A worthwhile tourist information centre with easy-to-use descriptions of each province, helpful staff who speak decent English, as well as brochures and regional maps.
Travel Agencies
Central Vientiane has plenty of agencies that can book air and Thai train tickets and organise visas for Myanmar and Vietnam.
Green Discovery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-264528; www.greendiscoverylaos.com; Th Setthathirath; h9am-9pm)
Lin Travel Service ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-218707; 239 Th Hanoi/Phnom Penh; h8.30am-9pm)
Travel with Children
Small by the standards of Asian megacities, Vientiane is not such a daunting prospect for families. Many midrange hotels now have swimming pools and there is even the Ocean Park water park in town. Vientiane's sights are not particularly noteworthy for children, but they should appreciate the surreal sculptures of Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park) and clambering around the larger monuments.
Travellers with Disabilities
While Vientiane is the most disabled-friendly city in Laos, rarely do hotels, restaurants and other public buildings feature ramps or other access points for wheelchairs. For wheelchair users, any trip to Vientiane will require a good deal of advance planning.
Visas
Getting an extension on a tourist visa is easy. Go to the Immigration Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-212250; Th Hatsady; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri), in the Ministry of Public Security building opposite Talat Sao, fill out a form, supply your passport, a photo and pay US$2 per day for the extra time you want. The whole process can be completed in one hour.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Departures from Vientiane's Wattay International Airport ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-512165; www.vientianeairport.com) are very straightforward. The domestic terminal is in the older, white building east of the more impressive international terminal. There is an (often unstaffed) information counter in the arrivals hall, and food can be found upstairs in the international terminal.
Air Asia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.airasia.com; Wattay Airport International Terminal) Vientiane to Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur daily.
Bangkok Airways ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bangkokair.com; Lao Plaza Hotel, 63 Th Samsènethai; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Daily flights between Bangkok and both Vientiane and Luang Prabang, plus Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang.
China Eastern Airlines ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ce-air.com; Th Luang Prabang; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Flies daily to Kunming and Nanning.
Korean Air (www.koreanair.com) Daily connections between Vientiane and Seoul.
Lao Airlines ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-512028; Wattay Airport International Terminal; h6am-6pm) Domestic flights to Savannakhet, Pakse, Luang Prabang, Phonsavan (Xieng Khuang) and Luang Namtha; plus international flights to Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, Seoul, Singapore, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh, Kunming and Guangzhou.
Lao Skyway ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-513022; www.laoskyway.com; Domestic Terminal, Wattay International Airport; h8am-8pm) Local airline with flights from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, Luang Namtha, Udomxai and Huay Xai.
Thai Airways International ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thaiairways.com; Th Luang Prabang, Vientiane; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Vientiane to Bangkok twice daily.
Vietnam Airlines ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vietnamairlines.com; Lao Plaza Hotel, 63 Th Samsènethai, Vientiane; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Connects Vientiane with Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh, plus Luang Prabang with Hanoi and Siem Reap.
Boat
Passenger-boat services between Vientiane and Luang Prabang are almost extinct as most people now take the bus, which is both faster and cheaper.
Bus
In Laos roads are poor and buses break down, so times can take longer than advertised. Buses use three different stations in Vientiane, all with some English-speaking staff, and food and drink stands. The Northern Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Asiane), about 2km northwest of the airport, serves all points north of Vang Vieng, including China. Destinations and the latest ticket prices are listed in English.
The Southern Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13 South), commonly known as Dong Dok Bus Station or just khíw lot lák káo (Km 9 Bus Station), is 9km out of town and serves everywhere to the south. Buses to Vietnam depart from here.
The final departure point is the Talat Sao Bus Station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-216507; Th Khu Vieng), from where desperately slow local buses run to destinations within Vientiane Province, including Vang Vieng, and some more distant destinations, though for the latter you're better going to the Northern or Southern Bus Stations. The Thai-Lao International Bus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) also uses this station for its trips to Khon Kaen, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai and Udon Thani.
For sleeper buses to Kunming, China (US$95, 38 hours, departing 2pm), contact the Tong Li Bus Company ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-242657) at the Northern Bus Station. For Vietnam, buses leave the Southern Bus Station daily at 7pm for Hanoi (220,000K, 24 hours) via Vinh (180,000K, 16 hours), and also for Danang (230,000K, 22 hours) via Hue (200,000K, 19 hours), except for Monday, Thursday and Sunday when they leave at 6pm. For Ho Chi Minh City change at Danang; contact SDT ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-720175) for details.
BUSES FROM VIENTIANE
Destination Departure Point Price (K) Distance (km) Duration (hr) Departures
Attapeu (fan) Southern Bus Station 140,000 812 22-24 9.30am, 5pm
Attapeu (VIP) Southern Bus Station 200,000 812 14-16 8.30pm
Don Khong (fan) Southern Bus Station 150,000 788 16-19 10.30am
Huay Xai Northern Bus Station 230,000-250,000 869 24 10am, 5.30pm
Khon Kaen (air-con) Talat Sao Bus Station 50,000 197 4 8.15am, 2.45pm
Lak Sao (fan) Southern Bus Station 85,000 334 6-8 5am, 6am, 7am, 8.30pm
Luang Namtha Northern Bus Station 200,000 676 24 8.30am, 5pm
Luang Prabang Northern Bus Station 110,000 384 10-11 6.30am, 7.30am, 8.30am, 11am, 1.30pm, 4pm, 6pm, 7.30pm (air-con)
Luang Prabang (VIP) Northern Bus Station 130,000-150,000 384 9-12 8am, 9am, 7.30pm, 8pm
Nakhon Ratchasima (air-con) Talat Sao Bus Station 149,000 387 7 5pm
Nong Khai (air-con) Talat Sao Bus Station 17,000 25 1½ 7.30am, 9.30am, 12.40pm, 2.30pm, 3.30pm, 6pm
Nong Khiang (fan) Southern Bus Station 130,000 818 16-20 11am
Paksan Southern Bus Station 40,000-50,000 143 3-4 7am-3pm (tuk-tuk); take any bus going south
Pakse (fan) Southern Bus Station 140,000 677 16-18 regular from 7am to 8pm
Pakse (VIP) Southern Bus Station 170,000 677 8-10 8.30pm
Phongsali Northern Bus Station 210,000-230,000 811 25-28 7.15am (fan), 6pm (sleeper)
Phonsavan Northern Bus Station 110,000 374 10-11 6.30am, 7.30am, 9.30am, 4pm, 6.40pm
Phonsavan (sleeper) Northern Bus Station 150,000 374 10-11 8pm
Sainyabuli Northern Bus Station 110,000-130,000 485 14-16 9am, 4pm, 6.30pm
Salavan (air-con) Southern Bus Station 160,000 774 16 7.30pm
Salavan (fan) Southern Bus Station 130,000 774 15-20 4.30pm, 7.30pm
Salavan (VIP) Southern Bus Station 190,000 774 13 8.30pm
Sam Neua Northern Bus Station 170,000-190,000 612 22-24 7am, 9.30am, noon (fan), 5pm
Sam Neua (sleeper) Northern Bus Station 210,000 612 22-24 2pm
Savannakhet Southern Bus Station 75,000 457 8-11 half-hourly 5.30-9am, or any bus to Pakse
Savannakhet (VIP) Southern Bus Station 120,000 457 8-10 8.30pm
Tha Khaek Southern Bus Station 60,000 332 6 4am, 5am
, 6am, noon, or any bus to Savannakhet or Pakse
Tha Khaek (VIP) Southern Bus Station 80,000 332 5 noon, 1pm
Udomxai Northern Bus Station 150,000-170,000 578 16-19 6.45am, 1.45pm, 5pm
Udomxai (VIP) Northern Bus Station 190,000 578 15-17 4pm
Udon Thani (air-con) Talat Sao Bus Station 22,000 82 2½ 8am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm
Vang Vieng (fan) Talat Sao Bus Station 30,000 157 3-4 7am, 9.30am, 1pm, 3pm
Train
In 2009 tracks were extended from Nong Khai's train station across the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge to Dongphasy in Laos, effectively forming Laos' first railway line. There are plans to extend the tracks an additional 9km, part of a greater plan that will see the commencement of a national railway grid in the coming years, but for now Laos boasts a grand total of 3.5km of rolling track, making connections with Nong Khai in Thailand very inconvenient when compared with the Thai-Lao International Bus.
GETTING TO THAILAND: THA NE LONG TO NONG KHAI
Getting to the border At the Tha Na Leng (Laos)/Nong Khai (Thailand) border crossing (6am to 10pm), the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge (Saphan Mittaphap Thai-Lao) spans the Mekong River. The Laos border is approximately 20km from Vientiane, and the easiest and cheapest way to the bridge is to cross on the Thai-Lao International Bus. It conducts daily departures for the Thai cities of Khon Kaen, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai and Udon Thani. Alternative means of transport between Vientiane and the bridge include taxi (300B), tuk-tuk (shared/charter 5000K/250B), jumbo (250B to 300B) or the number 14 Tha Deua bus from Talat Sao Bus Station (15,000K) between 6am and 5.30pm.
To cross from Thailand, tuk-tuks are available from Nong Khai's train station (20B) and bus station (55B) to the Thai border post at the bridge. You can also hop on the Thai-Lao International Bus from Nong Khai bus station (55B, 1½ hours) or Udon Thani bus station (80B, two hours), both of which terminate at Vientiane's Talat Sao Bus Station. If flying into Udon Thani, a tuk-tuk from the airport to the city's bus station should cost about 120B.
Lonely Planet Laos Page 28
