Musée Des DinosauresMUSEUM
(ຫໍພິພິດທະພັນໄດໂນເສົາ, Dinosaur Museum MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212597; Th Khanthabuli; 10,000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm)
In 1930 a major dig in a nearby village unearthed 200-million-year-old dinosaur fossils. The enthusiastically run Dinosaur Museum is an interesting place to see three different dinosaurs. Savannakhet Province is home to five dinosaur sites.
Wat SainyaphumBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ວັດໄຊຍະພູມ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Tha He)F
The oldest and largest monastery in southern Laos. The large grounds include some centuries-old trees and a workshop near the river entrance that's a veritable golden Buddha production line.
Wat RattanalangsiBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ວັດລັດຕະນະລັງສີ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Phagnapui)F
Wat Rattanalangsi was built in 1951 and houses a monks' primary school. The sĭm (ordination hall) is unique in that it has glass windows (most windows in Lao temples are unglazed). Other structures include a rather gaudy Brahma shrine, a modern săhláh lóng tám (sermon hall) and a shelter containing a 15m reclining Buddha backed by Jataka paintings.
Savannakhet Provincial MuseumMUSEUM
(ພິພິດທະພັນແຂວງຊະຫວັນນະເຂດ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Khanthabuli; admission 10,000K; h8-11.30am & 1-4pm Mon-Sat)
The Savannakhet Provincial Museum is a good place to see war relics, artillery pieces and inactive examples of the deadly unexploded ordnance (UXO) that has claimed the lives of more than 20,000 Lao since the end of the Secret War.
4Sleeping
Pilgrim's InnB&B$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22133733; www.facebook.com/pilgrimskitchenandinn; 106 Th Lhatphanith; r US$20-25; aW)
Pilgrim's Inn is a small B&B-style place attached to the popular Pilgrim's Kitchen. Guacamole-green rooms feature ample beds, air-con and attached bathrooms with hot water. The current five rooms are set to expand to seven rooms and include some larger family-friendly options.
Fundee GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-4841873; Th Santisouk; r 120,000K; naW)
A new guesthouse tucked down a side soi (lane) off Th Santisouk, Fundee offers great value for money thanks to its smart new rooms with all the trimmings. Ten rooms are already open and another 10 rooms are being added to ensure it can cater to its growing reputation.
Souannavong Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212600; Th Saenna; r with/without air-con 120,000/70,000K; naW)
This little guesthouse down a quiet street abloom in bougainvillea has clean en suite rooms and is unfailingly fresh. A welcoming place to stay thanks to the English-speaking owners. Bicycles and motorbikes are available to rent.
oVivanouk HomestayHOMESTAY$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-91606030; www.vivanouk.com; Th Khantabouly; r without bathroom US$30-45; naW)
This funky little place is akin to a boutique homestay and is a great new addition to the Savan scene. There are just three rooms sharing two bathrooms – one with an alfresco outdoor shower – and are delightfully decorated in a contemporary-colonial-era fusion style. Breakfast is available downstairs in an artsy venue that doubles as a bar by night.
Avalon ResidenceHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-252770; www.hotel.avalonbooking.com; Th Sisavangvong; r US$20-32; naiW)
Avalon Residence offers smart midrange rooms at an affordable price and is pretty convenient for a stroll to the bus station. The rooms are spacious and have glistening bathrooms, Lao silks and flat-screen TVs. Downstairs is a small air-conditioned cafe.
Phonepaseud HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212158; Th Santisouk; r 200,000-280,000K; naWs)
Phonepaseud has a friendly English-speaking owner, a clean lobby and imaginatively tile-floored, French-wallpapered rooms with air-con, TV, fridge and en suite plus much larger VIP rooms. Outside there's a fountain guarded by a naga (river serpent), mature trees, plenty of plants and a tennis court.
Daosavanh Resort & Spa HotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-252188; www.dansavanh.com; Th Tha He; r incl breakfast US$51-107; naiWs)
This ostentatious hotel overlooking the Mekong offers a slice of international comfort, and its kidney-shaped pool is very welcome on sweltering days, of which there are many in Savan. Rooms are large and immaculate, and prices include free airport transfers.
5Eating
oSavannakhet Plaza Food MarketMARKET, LAOTIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Savannakhet Plaza; meals 10,000-30,000K; h5-10pm)
An excellent new addition to the Savan dining scene, this nightly food market brings 20 or more stalls to the Savannakhet Plaza area in the heart of the old town. This is street-food surfing at its best, with a choice of freshly barbecued skewers, steaming noodle soups, dim-sum-sushi-tapas confusion and more. Plus Beerlao in plentiful supply.
oSala VannLAOTIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55645111; Ban Phonsavan; mains 10,000-90,000K; h10am-10pm; W)
Stunningly set on the Mekong about 500m south of the old hospital, this lovely Laotian restaurant is housed in a traditional wooden sala. The menu is enticingly affordable and draws a mixed crowd come sunset and beyond, when there is sometimes live music. As well as Lao and Thai favourites, there are even steaks and pasta.
oLin's CaféINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5332188; Th Phetsalat; mains 30,000-60,000K; h8am-10pm; aWv)
Savannakhet's original travellers cafe, this delightful spot has outgrown its former home and relocated to a new open-plan house near St Theresa's Cathedral. It's popular for its easy vibe, friendly staff, reservoir of local information, retro eclectic interior and gallery upstairs. But best of all are the cappuccinos, Thai green curry, tasty burgers, fruit salad and fresh pastries.
Pilgrim's KitchenINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22133733; www.facebook.com/pilgrimskitchenandinn; 106 Th Lhatphanith; mains 30,000-60,000K; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat; aW)
This international cafe has an eclectic menu of Tex-Mex, Americana, Indian and more. It's a delightful air-conditioned retreat on a hot day and offers its own concoctions such as an iced espresso bomb, where an iced espresso melts into a glass of fresh milk. Top Indian food, good burgers and some vegetarian options too. Five rooms are available upstairs.
Cafe Chai DeeJAPANESE, INTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5003336; www.cafechaidee.com; Th Ratsavongsouk; mains 20,000-50,000K; h9am-3pm & 5-9.30pm Mon-Sat; aWv)
This spotless Japanese-owned cafe has rattan mats to lounge on, a book exchange and a wide menu of Japanese classics like ramen and tonkatsu (pork coated in breadcrumbs and fried), plus samosas, homemade yoghurt, Thai food and healthy shakes. Great breakfasts, too. Expect super fresh, well-presented food, fast wi-fi and warm service.
Khao Piak Nang NoyLAOTIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-77744248; Th Ratsavongseuk; soups 10,000K; h8am-8pm)
Nang Noy sells what is probably the most popular, and almost certainly the richest, khào pìak sèn (thick noodles served in a slightly viscous broth with crispy deep-fried pork belly or chicken) in Savannakhet. There's no English-language sign, so look for the busy stall under the Pepsi awning.
Riverside Snack & Drink VendorsSTREET FOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h5-10pm)
The riverside snack and drink vendors are a great place for sundowners, serving cheap big bottles of Beerlao (10,000K) and sìn daat (Lao hotpot barbecue) sizzling away on charcoal grills.
Macchiato da CoffeeCAFE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-99111298; 999 Rte 9 West; mains 35,000-200,000K; h7am-11pm; aW)
This cavernous contemporary coffee shop on the road to the Friendship Bridge is a bit bling for Savannakhet. With a London Underground theme and a Savannakhet tube sign, this is all about designer, barista-brewed coffees and jam-jar juices. The food menu is impressive, but a little on the pricey side fo
r Savan – 800,000K for Wagyu beef!
White House RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9775588; Th Udomsin; mains 45,000-245,000K; h7am-9pm; aW)
Brace yourselves, you may not have expected this in Savannakhet. A huge colonial-style compound is home to one of the city's most upscale restaurants and a charming little cafe. The menu is an around-the-world tour, including Lao, Thai and Chinese favourites, plus New Zealand lamb and Australian tenderloin. Steaming noodle soup is an affordable breakfast option.
Lao Lao DerLAOTIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212270; mains 30,000-90,000K; h10am-11pm)
This riverside restaurant, 2km north of the old stadium, is one of the only places in town to offer great Mekong views. The hefty menu spans Lao, Thai and Chinese dishes, but Lao Lao Der functions equally well as a bar. It was undergoing a major renovation during our last visit.
Café Chez BouneFRENCH$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafechezboune.com; Th Ratsavongseuk; mains 15,000-150,000K; h7am-10pm; aW)
Glacially cool, orange-walled and hung with Parisian oils, Chez Boune has a French-speaking owner and is deservedly popular with expats. This must have something to do with the decent service and tasty steaks, pasta dishes, lasagne, pork chops and filet mignon, all of which are executed with élan.
Dao SavanhFRENCH$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-260888; Th Si Muang; mains 100,000-150,000K, 3-course cafe lunch 65,000K; h7am-10pm; aW)
With its elegant colonial-era facade, this cool, square-facing restaurant is still one of the city's finest, despite increased competition. Fans whir and wine glasses clink as you tuck into a French-accented menu of soups, grilled entrecôte and lamp chop Provençal. The upstairs restaurant is the classy sister (evenings only), while downstairs the all-day cafe has salads, sandwiches and croque-monsieur (gourmet version of a toasted ham and cheese sandwich).
6Drinking & Nightlife
oSook SavanBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Si Muang; h4pm-midnight; W)
The atmospheric Sook Savan occupies a strategic corner overlooking Savannakhet Sq and draws a lively crowd from about 7pm onwards. Beer is the main ingredient on the menu here, but it also offers traditional Laotian food with a spicy kick to help wash it down. Live music on weekend nights and a bit of a party atmosphere.
Savanlaty NightclubCLUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; h7pm-late)
One of a cluster of out-of-town nightclubs in this area, Savanlaty Nightclub is one of the most rockin' with a live band belting out Thai rock anthems and international tunes. Open late if you have the legs for it.
8Information
Internet Access
There are several internet cafes along the western side of Th Ratsavongseuk, between Th Sutthanu and Th Chaokeen; most are open from about 8am to 10pm and charge 6000K per hour.
Medical Services
Provincial Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212717; Th Khanthabuli) Ask for English-speaking Dr Outhon.
Money
BCEL ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Ratsavongseuk; h8.30am-4pm) and Lao Development Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Udomsin; h8.30-11.30am & 1.30-3.30pm) both have cash exchange, credit-card advances and an ATM. Phongsavanh Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-300888; Th Ratsavongseuk; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat) services are limited to cash exchange and an ATM.
Police
Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-260173)
Post
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212205; Th Khanthabuli) International calls here are overpriced; make calls via an internet connection instead.
Tourist Information
Tourist information in Savannakhet is plentiful and professional.
Eco-Guide Unit The industrious eco-guide unit provides a range of services, from bookings for treks to Dong Natad PPA and Dong Phu Vieng NPA, to bus times, accommodation and tips on where to get a decent massage or hire a motorbike (not both at the same time!).
Savanbanhao Tourism Co ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212944; Savanbanhao Hotel, Th Saenna; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Tours to Sepon and the Ho Chi Minh Trail and Heuan Hin can be arranged here. Bus tickets to Vietnam are also available.
SK Travel & Tour ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-300177; Th Chaimeuang; h8am-4pm) Air tickets can be arranged here.
Tourist Information Centre A useful stop for a selection of well-produced brochures on Savannakhet and its surrounds.
8Getting There & Away
Most travellers arrive and depart Savannakhet by road, with convenient bus links to all points in Laos and international destinations in Thailand and Vietnam. The airport offers limited flight connections to Vientiane, Pakse and Bangkok.
Air
Savannakhet's airport ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212140; Th Kaysone Phomvihane) is served solely by Lao Airlines, with domestic connections to Vientiane (490,000K–895,000K, 55 minutes, four weekly), Pakse (320,000K–520,000K, 30 minutes, four weekly) and Bangkok (US$105–US$150, 80 minutes, four weekly). Tickets can be purchased at the Lao Airlines office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212140; Savannakhet Airport; h8.30am-4.30pm) at the airport or travel agents in town.
An alternative option for those wanting to save money on the Bangkok route is to cross the Friendship Bridge and connect with the Fly-Drive services offered with Air Asia or Nok Air via Nakhon Phanom Airport; tickets are available from less than 1000B.
The airport is located at the southeastern edge of town; jumbos make the trip downtown for 30,000K, although they may start higher when fresh off the plane on arrival.
GETTING TO THAILAND: SAVANNAKHET TO MUKDAHAN
Since the construction of the second Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge back in 2006, non-Thai and non-Lao citizens are not allowed to cross between Mukdahan and Savannakhet by boat.
Getting to the border The Thai-Lao International Bus crosses the Savannakhet (Laos)/Mukdahan (Thailand) border crossing (6am to 10pm) in both directions. From Savannakhet's bus terminal, the Thai-Lao International Bus (15,000K, 45 minutes) departs approximately every hour from 8am to 7pm. It leaves Mukdahan's bus station (50B, 45 minutes) roughly every hour from 7.30am to 7pm and also stops at the border crossing to pick up passengers.
At the border Be sure not to board the Savan Vegas Casino staff bus at the border, as this also stops at the international bus stop but heads out of town to the eponymous casino resort.
The Lao border offers 30-day tourist visas on arrival. If you don't have a photo you'll be charged the equivalent of US$1. An additional US$1 'overtime fee' is charged from 6am to 8am and 6pm to 10pm on weekdays, as well as on weekends and holidays. Most nationalities do not require a visa to cross into Thailand; check with the Vietnamese consulate in Savannakhet.
Moving on Onward from Mukdahan, there are at least five daily buses bound for Bangkok. Alternatively, to save time, consider a fly-drive option with Air Asia or Nok Air, including an express minivan to Nakhon Phanom Airport and a budget flight to Bangkok.
Bus
Savannakhet's bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212143), usually called the khíw lot, is near the Talat Savan Xai at the northern edge of town. Buses leave here for Vientiane (75,000K, eight to 11 hours, 457km) roughly every half-hour from 6am to 11.30am. From 1.30pm to 10pm you'll have to hop on a bus passing through from Pakse, which stop at Tha Khaek (30,000K, 2½ to four hours, 125km). Hourly sŏrngtăaou and minivans also head to Tha Khaek (30,000K) from 8am to 4pm. A VIP sleeper bus (120,000K, six to eight hours) to Vientiane leaves at 9.30pm, or you could try to pick up a seat on one of the VIP buses coming through from Pakse.
Ten daily buses to Pakse (45,000K, five to six hours, 230km) originate in Savannakhet; the first is at 7am and the last at 10pm. Otherwise, jump on one of the regular buses passing through from Vientiane. There's also a daily bus to Don Khong (80,000K, six to eight hours, 367km) at 7pm, and two daily buses to Attapeu (80,000K, eight to 10 hours, 410km) at 9am and 7pm.
Buses leave for the Laos–Vietnam border at Dansavanh (60,000K, five to six hours, 236km) at 7am, 8.30am and 11am, stopping at
Sepon (50,000K, four to five hours).
To Vietnam, there's a bus to Dong Ha (80,000K, about seven hours, 350km), departing at 8am on even-numbered dates. For Hué, there's a local bus (90,000K, about 13 hours, 409km) daily at 10pm and a VIP bus (110,000K, about eight hours) at 10.30am from Monday to Friday. There's also a bus to Danang (110,000K, about 10 hours, 508km) at 10pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday; the same bus continues to Hanoi (200,000K, about 24 hours, 650km), but we reckon you'd have to be a masochist to consider this journey.
GETTING TO VIETNAM: SAVANNAKHET TO DONG HA
Getting to the border Crossing the Dansavanh (Laos)/Lao Bao (Vietnam) border (7am to 7.30pm) is a relative pleasure. From Savannakhet's bus terminal, buses leave for Dansavanh (60,000K, five to six hours, 236km) at 7am, 8.30am and 11am. Alternatively, consider breaking the journey for a night in Sepon as a base for seeing the Ho Chi Minh Trail.
The bus station in Dansavanh is about 1km short of the border; Vietnamese teenagers on motorbikes are more than happy to take you the rest of the way for about 10,000K.
Lonely Planet Laos Page 36
