1Sights
The most appealing of Salavan's meagre attractions is its market, but anyone with an interest in Buddhist art will also enjoy a quick jaunt around town. The folks at the tourism office told us that a provincial museum is planned, but had no clue as to when.
Better than anything in town, and reason enough to come up here, are the ruined Prince Souphanouvong's Bridge and the weaving villages around Toumlan.
Salavan MarketMARKET
(ຕະຫຼາດສາລະວັນ GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-6.30pm)
Many women come in to this market from the surrounding villages to sell foods they've collected or caught in the forest, such as mushrooms, bamboo shoots, ant eggs and monitor lizards.
Wat Kang SalavanBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ວັດກາງສາລະວັນ, Wat Simongkhoun GOOGLE MAP )
Salavan's most important temple, founded over two centuries ago, has a very large hŏr đąi – monastery building dedicated to the storage of the Tripitaka (Buddhist scriptures) – in a pond, to prevent termites from eating the holy manuscripts stored inside. It is supported by 57 pillars and is slowly being renovated. Much of the temple was destroyed in 1972 and brick remains of the former ubosot and stupa are hidden by brush across the road. It is 700m northeast of the market.
VISITING PROTECTED AREAS
Though much of the province is still covered by natural forest, visiting the protected areas is really tough since they have nearly no tourist infrastructure. The tourism office in Salavan had recently organised a survey of an overnight trek to a sunrise viewpoint (16km round trip) in the Se Xap National Protected Area (NPA) in the far east; guides will be available through the office when this is up and running. Truthfully, though, you'd probably have better luck arranging it through the Tat Lo Tourism Information Centre.
4Sleeping & Eating
Most lodging is on Rte 15 west of the centre and there are some more choices on the way into town from the south. The owners of Phoufa Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5370799; Rte 20; r 60,000-150,000K; a) have a new hotel in the works and it should be the best in town when finished.
Jindavone GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %034-211065; r with fan/air-con 70,000/100,000K; a)
This eye-catching blue building just off the southeast corner of the market is cheap and central. Rooms on the second floor can catch a bit of a breeze. The friendly family who run it speak a little English.
Phonexay HotelHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %034-211093; Rte 15; r with fan 70,000-80,000K, air-con 120,000-200,000K; aW)
By virtue of the fact that the main building is fairly youngish and that the rooms have wi-fi, this mostly clean place 1.5km west of the market is the best lodging choice in town. But that's not a tough competition to win.
Sabaidee SalavanLAOTIAN, THAI$
( GOOGLE MAP ; mains 15,000-50,000K; h7am-9pm)
One of the few dining options in town with an English menu, Sabaidee has all the standard Lao and Thai dishes, but also offers sukiyaki.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
UXO remain a serious problem in rural areas, so exercise caution if you go out exploring the province beyond main roads: stick to established tracks and trails.
Money
There are several banks and ATMs in town, including some around the market.
Tourist Information
Salavan Tourism Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; 034-211528; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Staff are eager to help and some are knowledgable about tourism in the area. It's south of the market, next to the large, glass-fronted Phongsavanh Bank building.
8Getting There & Away
Salavan's bus terminal is 2km west of the town centre, where Rte 20 meets Rte 15. There are nine daily buses to Pakse (fan/air-con 30,000/40,000K, three hours), with three (8.30am, 4pm, 4.30pm) continuing on to Vientiane (regular/sleeper 130,000/190,000K, 12 to 14 hours), and one bus to Attapeu (50,000K, 4½ hours).
No buses to Vietnam originate here, but you can hope one passing through from Pakse has empty seats.
GETTING TO VIETNAM: LA LAY TO LALAY
Getting to the border Most people travelling from Pakse to Hué and Danang use sleeper buses, which go through the Lao Bao border crossing east of Savannakhet. The faster, but more dangerous, minibuses, on the other hand, go via Salavan and cross at La Lay (Laos)/Lalay (Vietnam), as do the slow and thoroughly uncomfortable cargo buses, which only save a few seats for passengers. If you're in Salavan, you don't need to backtrack to Pakse. There are usually seats available when the buses from Pakse pass through. There isn't much traffic on this route, so doing the trip in stages is not recommended, but if you're set on it, start with the 7.30am minibus to Samouy (35,000K, 3½ hours) which is very near the border.
At the border The border is open from 6am to 7pm and though it's little more than a shack you will probably not have any hassles (other than the usual Lao 'overtime fee'), assuming you have your Vietnamese visa already, or don't need one. In the reverse, you can get a Lao visa at the border.
Moving on For those going in stages, most of the traffic here is trucks, so you should be able to buy an onward ride, though be sure you know whether the driver will be taking a right at the junction to Hué and Danang or turning left to Dong Ha.
Around Salavan
ToumlanVILLAGE
(ບ້ານຕຸ້ມລານ )
Toumlan, 50km north of Salavan, is a slapped-together boomtown with some small shops and restaurants and several oversized, out-of-place government buildings. The surrounding Katang villages comprise one of Laos' most important weaving regions. Women here weave a variety of silk and cotton styles, including some mat-mee (ikat or tie-dye), using large wooden floor looms instead of the back-strap looms typical in the Bolaven region.
Although virtually no English or Thai is spoken, if you see someone weaving you will almost certainly be welcome to stop and watch, as long as you're polite and friendly – this includes not turning your visit into a photo shoot. The best place to look is along the highway east of Toumlan proper where seemingly every house has a loom under it. Many of these villages raise their own silkworms.
The famous Lapup buffalo sacrifice festival is usually held in late February.
There's no public transport up here, but Rte 15A is paved and in good condition, or you can take the adventurous way using Rte 23 past Prince Souphanouvong's Bridge.
Prince Souphanouvong's BridgeRUINS
(Ban Dan Bridge)
Named after its builder, the 'Red Prince' Souphanouvong (who was a trained engineer), this 150m-long bridge over the Se Don was blown up by American bombers in 1968 due to its position on a supply branch of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Today most of the massive concrete supports and a part of the steel span remain standing. The contrast between heavy war damage and the peaceful, beautiful setting makes it quite interesting.
You can take a ferry (10,000K) to visit the other side; in dry months you can just walk across the river.
It is along Rte 23, 10km west of Salavan and then 10km north. If you're travelling by motorcycle, you can continue on to Toumlan, though there are lots of missing small bridges, so enquire in Salavan before attempting this route in the rainy season. Other than the bridge issue, the road is in good shape the entire way and it's a remote and beautiful drive following the mountains of the Se Ban Nuan NPA.
Ta-OyVILLAGE
(ບ້ານຕາໂອ້ຍ )
Though it's hard to justify a trip all the way to Ta-Oy on its own, it makes a good add-on if you'd like to turn a half-day trip to Toumlan into a full-day journey. The route here crosses a remote mountainous area with few villages, and – though most of the area has been intensively logged – there are still some beautiful moments. Ta-Oy was once an important marker on the Ho Chi Minh Trail and two major branches split off here.
This is a centre for the Tahoy ethnic group, who number around 30,000 spread across the eastern areas of Salavan and Sekong Provinces. Other g
roups in this region include Katang, Pako, Kado and Kanay. The Tahoy live in forested mountain valleys and, like many Mon-Khmer groups in southern Laos, they practise a combination of animism and shamanism; during village ceremonies, the Tahoy put up diamond patterned bamboo totems to warn outsiders not to enter. Keep your eyes peeled for some of their enormous longhouses in and around town. You'll see some in a village just before crossing the large bridge into Ta-Oy. Down below the town, upstream from the bridge, are beautiful rapids that can be easily reached by a short footpath.
Ta-Oy is 80km from Salavan on a good paved road, and you could double the distance and continue to Samouy near the Vietnamese border. Both are small but developed towns with a few guesthouses as well as places to eat and fuel up.
Sekong ເຊກອງ
Pop 15,000 / %038
This sleepy city on its namesake river was built from scratch in 1984, the year Sekong Province was created. It's not a destination as much as a place intrepid travellers visit just because it's there.
This may change in the next few years when a new bridge shortens the route from Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand, to the Vietnamese port of Danang, facilitating access to gold and other mines on the Dak Cheung Plateau. A border crossing open to foreigners should also be part of the equation.
By population Sekong (ເຊກອງ) is the smallest of Laos' provinces and also the most ethnically diverse: almost all of its 90,000 inhabitants are from one of 14 different Mon-Khmer tribal groups, with the Alak, Katu, Talieng, Yai and Nge the largest. These diverse groups are not Buddhists, so you won't see temples. Rather, their belief systems mix animism and ancestor worship. Sekong is also one of the country's poorest provinces.
1Sights
Sekong Provincial Historical MuseumMUSEUM
(ຫໍພິພິດທະພັນປະຫວັດສາດແຂວງເຊກອງ Rte 16; h8-11.30am & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri)F
The first floor has just a few old stones, UXO and photos from the war years. But the tribal displays of textiles and household tools (don't miss the bamboo forge for making knives) upstairs are well presented with labels in English. The focus is Katu, but Alak, Yai, Talieng, Suay and many more are covered too. It's up the road north from the tourism office.
Sekong MarketMARKET
(ຕະຫຼາດເຊກອງ h5am-6pm)
Fresh food offerings in this market include mushrooms, squirrels, herbs and other forest products. It's best in the late afternoon.
4Sleeping
Sakda GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%030-9921992; r 80,000K; aW)
Sakda's small but fairly modern rooms are both better value and quality than many of the pricier places in town. It's 100m north of the market's west side, past the UXO office. There is no English sign, so look for a white building with a green roof.
Tat Faek Waterfall GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%030-5238353; r 50,000K)
There are some very simple thatch huts up above Tat Faek waterfall. After 5pm it's just you, a security guard, and a bonfire if you wish. Some people enjoy the all-alone feeling at night, while others find it eerie.
Woman's Union of Sekong GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%020-57930533; r with fan/air-con 40,000/60,000K; a)
Some 650m southwest of the market, next to the Sekong Hotel, the rooms here are simple (all rooms share cold-water bathrooms) but better than you'd expect from looking at the exterior. It's part of a job-training centre for underprivileged women, with sewing, hairdressing and similar classes.
5Eating
Thida Hotel RestaurantLAOTIAN, THAI$
(mains 20,000-50,000K; h6am-10pm; W)
Although its perch high above the river with good mountain views would be enough reason to dine here, the kitchen holds up its end of the bargain with good Thai food including the obligatory tom yam gung and stir-fried holy basil.
Khamting RestaurantLAOTIAN, THAI$
(mains 15,000-50,000K; h7am-9pm)
Ask a local to recommend a place to eat and this is probably the only name you'll hear. It serves good stir-fries, noodle soups and Thai standards. The forest animals on the menu are rarely available, but even if they are you should avoid them as some, like pangolin, are endangered species and others are poached illegally. Note that the menu has English but no prices.
It's 600m southwest of the market on the road closest to the river, opposite the Sekong Hotel.
8Information
Money
Banks and ATMs are spread around town. The Lao Development Bank (h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri), 200m southwest of the market on the central road, changes Thai baht, euros, US dollars and more, and has a Western Union branch.
Post
The post office (h8-11.30am & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri) is 350m southwest of Lao Development Bank.
Tourist Information
The Sekong Provincial Tourism Office (%038-211361; 2nd fl; h8-11.30am &1-4.30pm Mon-Fri) is 700m west of the market on the central road. Don't expect much help here. Requests for guides are supposed to be submitted in writing two days before you wish to travel, though if you just show up they should be able to sort things out.
Around Sekong
South of Sekong, Rte 16 morphs into Rte 11 and the waterfalls along this road have more appeal than anything actually in the town.
For a bit of easy adventure, take a relaxed ride on the new highway to Dak Cheung. It's a beautiful and still relatively remote region, especially once you hit the mountains. Until the new bridge is completed, cross the Se Kong on the rickety ferry (5000K) southwest of the market and follow the dirt road for 2.5km to reach the pavement.
1Sights
Tat FaekWATERFALL
(ຕາດແຟກ admission 5000K)
Sixteen kilometres south of Sekong, and well-signed off Rte 11, is this wide, beautiful 5m-high waterfall where you can swim in the pool atop the falls. Do heed the red and white 'Watch Out For Biting Fish' signs around the lower pools as a diabolical puffer fish called pa pao lurks there. Stories of their fondness for attacking men's penises are only legend – told with glee by local women – but they really can take a chunk of flesh out of unlucky swimmers with their razor-sharp teeth.
Tat Hua KhonWATERFALL
(ຕາດຫົວຄົນ 5000K)
Three kilometres south of the Tat Faek turn-off (just past the market), this waterfall is 7m tall and an impressive 100m wide. The name translates as 'Waterfall of the Heads', owing to a WWII episode in which Japanese soldiers decapitated a number of Lao soldiers and tossed their heads into the falls. Facilities, including good trails and boardwalks through the forest, kayaks (80,000K) and a restaurant, are part of the little P&S Garden resort. This is a busy place on holidays and weekends.
4Sleeping
P&S GardenRESORT$
(%020-98836555; 1-/2-person tents 40,000/50,000K; iW)
This lovely and orderly resort near Tat Hua Kon is a welcome surprise. Though it started out with just tents, which are pitched on a stilted and thatched-roof platform, actual guestrooms are in the works. The restaurant serves coffee and juice and a small menu (mains 15,000K to 80,000K) of Lao food including 'bugs' (roasted crickets) and spicy papaya salad.
2Motorcycle Tour
The Southern Swing
Start Pakse
End Pakse
Length 480km; five days
The Southern Swing starts in Pakse and circles up, down and around the Bolaven Plateau. The route we've laid out here will take most people five days, but this is only a guide – you could easily take your time and spend many more days. Head out of 1Pakse on Rte 13 and continue straight to Rte 16 at the traffic circle. You'll pass stretches of roadside basket, fruit, and knife vendors (you can stop and watch the latter make their wares) and then turn north onto Rte 20 just after the huge Dao Coffee Factory.
After 13km you'll see a signed turn-off for the beautiful, U-shaped 2Tat Phasuam, which is 2km from the highway within the Utayan Bajiang Nature Resort. Besides the waterfall, the bus loads o
f Thai tourists flock to the ethnic model village where families from a variety of the region's ethnic minorities wear traditional clothes and sell crafts from their particular style of house. It makes for some great photos, but it's hard to shake the feeling of being in a human zoo.
From here it's about 27km to Ban Houay Houn (Houay Houn Village), known for its Katu weavers and for 3Mr Vieng Coffee & Homestay, both of which warrant a visit. Then get your camera out for some snaps of the vista before you drop down to backpacker-friendly 4Tat Lo, 19km after Ban Houay Houn.
It's easy to spend a few nights in Tat Lo visiting villages and waterfalls. When you're ready to leave, head 5.5km up Rte 20 to Ban Beng and either take a left off the beaten path to 5Salavan or turn right and reascend the Bolaven Plateau to Tha Taeng, passing many Katu and Alak villages. One that is worth stopping at is Ban Khokphung Tai, home to the fantastic 6Captain Hook Coffee Break.
At Tha Taeng you meet Rte 16 again. The 'small loop' takes you south directly to Paksong (37km) while the 'big loop' continues due east to Sekong (47km). Regardless of which loop you choose, it's worth having lunch or a drink in the garden at 7Sinouk Coffee Resort, 6km south of Tha Taeng.
Lonely Planet Laos Page 43
