Boats are chartered (70,000K, maximum four people) from the old French landing pier in Ban Hang Khon. Where you go depends on where the dolphins are. In the hot season they stay close to village, but when the river runs high they can travel further away. You may be able to see them from your boat, or you may need to disembark in Cambodia and walk to a spot that overlooks the conservation zone. This will require a 20,000K payment to the officials there. Try to go in the early morning or early evening to avoid the heat.
The boat trips from Bang Hang Khon can combine dolphin-watching with Khon Phapheng Falls (250,000K) or little Nook Xume (100,000K) waterfalls.
2Activities
Kayaking around the islands is very popular, and for good reason considering the sublime beauty of the Mekong in these parts. Full-day trips (180,000K per person) paddle to Khon Pa Soi Falls and then down to the dolphin pool – unlike the regular dolphin-watching trips, seeing them while on a kayak tour is hit or miss – before you visit Khon Phapheng Falls by vehicle. Prices are sometimes negotiable – mostly in the low season – or in lieu of a discount, some guesthouses will give you free breakfast the morning of the tour if you book it through them.
Due to the potential dangers, businesses are unwilling to just rent out kayaks. Tubing (10,000K), however, is a big thing here. But don't float past the French bridge or you'll hit the fast currents that feed into the lethal falls. You could also have a boat take you upstream so you float back to Don Det. December to July is the best season, but you can go any time.
A relaxing alternative to the kayak tours are the afternoon BBQ boat tours (55,000K per person or 30,000K just for transport), such as that offered by Souksan Guesthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22337722; Don Khon; r with fan/air-con 50,000/100,000K; iW). All guesthouses can also arrange other sorts of boat tours: sunset cruises, full-day island hops, morning bird-watching trips, fishing – you name it.
CYCLING THE DON KHON LOOP
A bike trip around Don Khon is a pure delight. Begin in Ban Khon (Khon Village) and take the paved path to Ban Don Khon Neua temple, then follow the twisting little paths through the rice paddies until you reach the riverbank.
Head south and you'll soon see large portions of the concrete diversion walls the French built to direct logs. Usually sent down from forests in Sainyabuli Province, west of Vientiane, the logs were lashed together into rafts of three. To prevent them going off course, a Lao 'pilot' would board the raft and steer it through the maze of islands. When they reached the critical area at the north end of Don Khon, the pilots were required to guide the raft onto a reinforced concrete wedge, thus splitting the binds and sending the logs into the correct channel. The pilot would jump for his life moments before impact.
Turn at the sign for Khon Pa Soi Falls, which is reached by a big wooden suspension bridge that would be worth a visit even if there was no waterfall here. South of the falls the path enters a thick forest full of birds, crosses three wonky bridges made of old railroad track, passes a tiny village and deposits you at the ruins of the large French port in the dolphin-watching Ban Hang Khon (Hang Khon Village), at the southern tip of the island.
The village also has a hilltop viewpoint ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ban Hang Khon, Don Khon), a decrepit old French colonial-era steam locomotive ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Don Khon), several restaurants and a real village homestay.
The road taking you back north follows the old rail bed 5km across the island. Next to the photogenic French Bridge sits another, better-preserved French steam locomotive ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Don Khon). From there, head southwest, taking either the road around or through historic Wat Khon Tai to finish your trip at the impressive Tat Somphamit waterfall.
4Sleeping
The common wisdom is to stay on Don Det to party, and Don Khon to get away from it all. But this is not how things really work. The party is confined to the northern tip of Don Det, at the busy village where the ferry from Ban Nakasang alights. In fact, the quietest and most isolated guesthouses in all of Si Phan Don are actually on the southern portion of Don Det.
Many places offer low-season discounts; sometimes it's automatic and sometimes you need to ask.
Don Det
Don Det's best accommodations – and highest prices – are on the sunrise side, though there are still plenty of good budget beds here too. Flimsy bamboo bungalows predominate on the sunset side. The drawback here is that late in the day rooms become furnace-like after baking in the afternoon sun. On the other hand, there's less boat traffic (ie noise) here.
On both sides of the island, walk far enough (on the sunrise side this means going past the old French Port in Don Det village) and the modest party scene of Ban Hua Det feels light years away. The sunset side gets downright rural after a kilometre.
Sunset Strip
Last ResortGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; [email protected]; sunset side, Don Det; r 60,000K)
This tepee 'resort' in a field about a 20-minute walk south of Ban Hua Det embraces the natural life, with the expat owner growing vegies and baking bread. Made with bamboo and thatch, the tepees are in the shade of mature trees and share a bathroom. There are often communal meals and alfresco movies in the evening.
Seng Thavan 1 GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-56132696; sunset side, Don Det; r 100,000K; W)
Probably the best the sunset side has to offer in the budget range, Seng Thavan's four ensuite rooms are old but fastidiously clean. They're off the river, but you get the great views from its low-key cafe, full of recliner cushions.
Peace Love GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-56763298; sunset side, Don Det; r 50,000K)
These ageing split-bamboo bungalows perched over the river hark back to Don Det's old days of US$1 rooms. Though things are bare bones, and the cold-water facilities are across the road, there are great views, it's in a very local area beyond most tourists, and the family who runs it is very nice. It's got a hard-to-find sign, so look for the 'Take It Easy' restaurant.
Little EdenHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-77739045; www.littleedendondet.com; sunset side, Ban Hua Det; r from US$41-50; naWs)
Don Det's most luxurious complex is set on a large plot on its northern tip. Fragrant rooms tempt with contemporary dark-wood furniture and polished wood floors, plus plenty of mod cons. Also, the hotel has a beautiful free 18m-long swimming pool, a bar and a sunset-perfect restaurant. You will feel like you have escaped Ban Hua Det.
Sunrise Strip
oCrazy GeckoGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-97193565; www.crazygecko.ch; sunrise side, Don Det; r 80,000-100,000K; W)
In a stilted structure made of solid wood, Crazy Gecko's four tidy rooms surround a balcony that's equal parts funky and functional. Festooned with hammocks and random decoration, it's a superior place to relax. There's a pool table and board games down below and across the road is a little restaurant on a deck over the water.
Mama PiangGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-91816479; sunrise side, Don Det; r 50,000K)
If there is a more fun and friendly host in Si Phan Don than Mama Piang – who proudly calls herself 'crazy' – we didn't meet her. There are six newish cold-water fan rooms across the road from her riverfront restaurant. She's rightfully pretty proud of her cooking.
Mama Leuah GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-59078792; www.mamaleuah-dondet.com; sunrise side, Don Det; r with/without bathroom 100,000/80,000K; W)
The rooms are super basic, but it's quiet and beautiful up here and you can hang out at the restaurant, where ambient music plays and excellent Thai cuisine emerges from the kitchen along with Swiss surprises such as Zürcher geschnetzeltes (pork with creamy mushroom sauce).
Mr Tho's BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55928598; [email protected]; sunrise side, Don Det; bungalows 10,000, new r fan/air-con 120,000/160,000K; aW)
Just south
of Don Det village, Mr Tho's has long been popular for the relaxed atmosphere fostered by the helpful, English-speaking family and the location, which is where the sunrise side starts to feel more like a village than a holiday resort. The old cold-water bungalows are right on the water and the new block across the road has taken them into the flashpacker market.
Baba GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-98893943; www.dondet.net; sunrise side, Ban Hua Det; r 350,000K; aW)
This beautiful guesthouse looks out on the Mekong on one side, and emerald paddy fields on the other. The price is well above average for this area, but you really do get more for your money here. Rooms are sleekly white and almost luxurious, with private balcony, tasteful decor, personal safe and spotless bathroom.
South
oMekong Dream GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55275728; Don Det; r 50,000K; W)
At the south of Don Det, facing the strip on Don Khon, Mekong Dream is one of the homiest, best-value guesthouses on the islands. The 12 rooms, all with private bathrooms and comfortable king-size beds, are the antidote to claustrophobic rooms elsewhere (except for the three inferior concrete rooms downstairs) and share a roomy balcony/hammock lounge.
Don Khon
Ban Hang Khon HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-98893204; Don Khon; per person 36,000K, per meal 20,000K)
The small village of Ban Hang Khon at the southern tip of Don Khon – where the dolphin-watching trips start – offers an unadulterated local experience. Little English is spoken, but the seven families who take in guests are impeccable hosts. It's best to call ahead.
Xaymountry GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-96516513; Don Khon; r with/without bathroom 80,000/50,000K; W)
No place on Don Khon has more character than this giant stilted wood house. It was the first lodging on the island and the massive front porch is a nice place to unwind, despite the lack of a river view. The family's children will keep you entertained.
Pa Kha GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055-847522; Don Khon; r with fan/air-con 80,000/120,000K; aW)
Great-value digs with welcoming, clean rooms, good service and a quiet location. The cheapest rooms are on the river and the newer air-con rooms are across the road, as is the restaurant.
oSala Done KhoneBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-260940; www.salalaoboutique.com; Don Khon; r US$60-80; naWs)S
Five hotels in one, Sala Done Khone has both the classiest and the most original rooms in Si Phan Don. Its signature unit, the French Residence, is a renovated 1921 timber trading headquarters with tiled floors and louvred blinds, while out on the river the Sala Phae wing features floating cottages with bio-safe toilets and private decks.
Seng Ahloune ResortRESORT$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-260934; www.sengahlouneresort.com; Don Khon; r/f incl breakfast 300,000/450,000K; aW)
The busy location next to the bridge doesn't seem ideal until you see the sunsets. The cosy and solidly built bungalows have wicker walls and wooden floors. Its huge riverfront restaurant (mains 20,000K to 100,000K) fills up with tour groups at lunch, but it's more relaxing at dinner.
DOLPHINS ENDANGERED
The Irrawaddy dolphin (Orcaella brevirostris, called pąa khaa in Laos) is one of the Mekong River's most fascinating creatures, and one of its most endangered. The dark blue to grey cetaceans grow to 2.75m long and are recognisable by their bulging foreheads, perpetual grins and small dorsal fins. They are unusually adaptable and can live in freshwater, brackish-water estuaries or semi-enclosed saltwater bodies such as bays.
Among the Lao and Khmer, Irrawaddy dolphins are traditionally considered reincarnated humans and there are many stories of dolphins having saved the lives of fishermen or villagers who have fallen into the river or been attacked by crocodiles. These cultural beliefs mean neither the Lao nor the Khmer intentionally capture dolphins for food or sport.
But gill netting and years of destructive fishing practices such as dynamite fishing in Cambodia have inevitably taken their toll on the dolphins. Education and conservation programs to save the dolphins continue, particularly in Cambodia, but gill netting remains a constant threat – dolphins need to surface and breathe every two to three minutes, and will usually drown before fishermen even know they are in the nets.
From the thousands that populated the Mekong and its tributaries in Cambodia and southern Laos as recently as the 1970s, it's now estimated there are only about 85 remaining. The surviving few live primarily in several deep-water conservation 'pools' along a 190km stretch of the Mekong between the Lao border and the Cambodian town of Kratie. These areas act as a refuge for the dolphins during the dry season, when river levels drop dangerously low.
In Laos, dolphins used to travel up the Se Kong (Kong River), but these days they are largely confined to a 600m-wide, 50m-deep (in the wet season) pool on the Cambodian border known in Laotian as Boong Pa Gooang and in Cambodian as Anlong Cheuteal. Only five dolphins survive in this pool.
5Eating
Most guesthouses serve a range of Lao, Thai and Western favourites from virtually identical menus. Stand-alone restaurants are usually a step above the guesthouses and the extra 5,000 to 10,000K per dish that they charge is worth it. Generally the best dining is on Don Khon and the southeast shore of Don Det.
Don Det
oKing Kong ResortINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Don Det; mains 25,000-120,000K; h6am-11pm; W)
This Brit-run establishment on a peaceful slice of the Mekong in south Don Det is a cut above the competition with a range of pastas, pizzas, burgers, fish and chips, Thai curries, Sunday roasts (60,000K) and – we hear – the tastiest and happiest shakes on the island. The guitars and chess sets scattered around fit the vibe. Has added a few new bungalows (40,000K) across the road.
Street View RestaurantPIZZA$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; sunrise side, Don Det; mains from 25,000-65,000K; h8am-11pm; W)
This attractive wooden riverside haunt has decks for chilling on; a long, well-stocked bar; and a good reputation. Tuck into mouth-watering wood-fired pizza, barbecued chicken, Mekong fish, beef chops, burgers, salads and healthy breakfasts. Prices are high, but worth it.
BoathouseSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Don Det; mains 20,000-65,000K; h7am-11pm)
Run by a German former fisherman married to a local gal, the emphasis here is on freshly made fish dishes. Try the catfish mók (steamed in banana leaf) or the fish barbecue, which needs to be ordered in advance. It's in a sturdy raised structure off the river in the south of Don Det.
Little Eden RestaurantLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; sunset side, Ban Hua Det; mains 30,000-140,000K; aW)
Catching the breeze from the tip of the island, Little Eden's perfectly placed new restaurant is one of the best spots to eat upmarket Lao and Western cuisine. Think tender duck à l'orange, spaghetti bolognese and fish láhp using Mekong catfish.
Don Khon
GardenLAOTIAN, THAI$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Don Khon; mains 20,000-65,000K; h7am-10pm; v)
Taking freshness seriously, this thatched-roof, open-kitchen restaurant is a good place for the uninitiated to sample Laotian foods, such as spicy papaya salad and grilled Mekong River fish. It also serves all the usual traveller comfort foods and the cook's personal version of lemongrass chicken.
Chanthoumma's RestaurantLAOTIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Don Khon; mains 20,000-70,000K; h6.30am-9pm)
This friendly family has been serving good food, including spring rolls, papaya salads and vegie options, from in front of their tumbledown home for many years.
Pizza Don KhonLAOTIOAN, INTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Don Khon; small pizzas 40,000K; h7.30am-10pm)
A focus on quality, fresh ingredients results in a top-notch pizza. There's a full menu including English bre
akfasts and daily specials such as mók (fish and egg steamed inside banana leaves).
oFour Thousand SunsetsFUSION$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Don Khon; mains 25,000-80,000K; h7am-11pm; Wv)
Aptly named, this high-class floating restaurant lowers your pulse with the metronomic flow. The menu is a big break from the usual with many dishes you won't find elsewhere in the islands such as northern Thai hinlay curry and a chicken láhp burger. There's also steamed and grilled fresh river fish, Lao 'smoking' herbal sausages and many stir-fries.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Ban Hua Det is where the action is. There's a semi-solid midnight curfew when the bars wind down and the action moves to the 'beach' (under water in the rainy season), where bonfires and midnight dips are not unheard of.
Adam's BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; sunrise side, Ban Hua Det)
Staff are upfront about their special 'secret' ingredients, so if that's your kind of scene then this is your kind of place. Has a full menu of Lao and Western food and helpful advice about the islands, too.
8Information
Internet Access
Computers for public internet access have largely vanished, but Mr Khieo Internet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; sunrise side, Ban Hua Det; per min 200K; h7am-10pm) on Don Det is still in the game. Wi-fi is now available in just about all guesthouses and hotels.
Lonely Planet Laos Page 46
