Food will be simple fare, usually two dishes and sticky rice. In our experience it's almost always been delicious, but prepare yourself for a sticky-rice extravaganza. Even if the food doesn't appeal, you should eat something or your host will lose face. Dinner is usually served on mats on the floor, so prepare to sit lotus-style or with legs tucked under. Don't sit on pillows as that's bad form, and always take off your shoes before entering the house.
Your meal will most likely be followed by a communal drinking session. If you're lucky this will mean cold bottles of Beerlao, but more likely it will revolve around homemade rice alcohol served from a communal cup. The stuff can be pretty harsh, but if you can stomach it, it's a great icebreaker, and some of our best nights in Laos have been spent this way.
Sleeping will probably be under a mosquito net on a mattress on the floor, and might change to 'waking' once the cocks start crowing outside your window.
It might not be luxurious, but a homestay is very much the 'real Laos' and is a thoroughly worthwhile and enjoyable experience. Just remember that for most villagers, dealing with falang tourists is pretty new and they are sensitive to your reactions. Their enthusiasm will remain as long as their guests engage with them and accept them, and their lifestyle, without undue criticism. To get the most out of it, take a phrasebook and photos of your family, and, most importantly, a torch, flip-flops, a sarong and toilet paper.
Hotels
Hotel rooms in Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, Savannakhet and Pakse offer private bathrooms and fans as standard features for between about US$10 and US$20 per night.
Small and medium-size hotels oriented towards Asian business and leisure travellers and tour groups exist in the larger cities. Prices at these hotels run from about US$40 to US$100 for rooms with air-con, hot water, TVs and refrigerators.
Then there are the few top-end hotels with better decor, more facilities and personalised service. These typically cost between US$80 and US$200, occasionally more in Luang Prabang.
While the price is undoubtedly right, the trade-off, however, is in the service. Few hotels in Laos have managed to hone their service to Western standards, and English levels are often quite weak, even in the more expensive hotels.
Resorts
The term 'resort' in the Lao context may be used for any accommodation situated outside towns or cities. It does not imply, as it usually does in many other countries, the availability of sports activities, a spa and other similar features.
Lao resorts typically cost about the same as a midrange hotel, from about US$25 to US$75 a night. A few, such as those outside Luang Prabang, come closer to the international idea of a resort, with prices to match.
Bargaining
Bargaining in most places in Laos is not nearly as tough as in other parts of Southeast Asia. Lao-style bargaining is generally a friendly transaction where two people try to agree on a price that is fair to both of them. Good bargaining, which takes practice, is one way to cut costs.
Most things bought in a market can be bargained for, but in shops prices are mostly fixed. The first rule to bargaining is to have a general idea of the price. Ask around at a few vendors to get a ballpark figure. Once you're ready to buy, it's generally a good strategy to start at 50% of the asking price and work up from there. In general, keeping a friendly, flexible demeanour throughout the transaction will almost always work in your favour. Don't get angry or upset over a few thousand kip. The locals, who invariably have less money than foreign visitors, never do this.
Climate
The annual monsoon cycles that affect all of mainland Southeast Asia produce a dry and wet monsoon climate, with three basic seasons for most of Laos. The southwest monsoon arrives in Laos between May and July and lasts into November.
The monsoon is followed by a dry period (from November to May), beginning with lower relative temperatures and cool breezes created by Asia's northeast monsoon (which bypasses most of Laos) and lasting until mid-February. Exceptions to this general pattern include Xieng Khuang, Hua Phan and Phongsali Provinces, which may receive rainfall coming from Vietnam and China during the months of April and May.
Temperatures also vary according to altitude. In the humid, low-lying Mekong River valley, temperatures range from 15°C to 38°C, while in the mountains of the far north they can drop to 0°C at night. Particularly cold years see snow falling in the mountains.
Customs Regulations
Customs inspections at ports of entry are lax, as long as you're not bringing in more than a moderate amount of luggage. You're not supposed to enter the country with more than 500 cigarettes or 1L of distilled spirits. All the usual prohibitions on drugs, weapons and pornography apply.
Electricity
Embassies & Consulates
There are about 25 embassies and consulates in Vientiane. Many nationalities are served by their embassies in Bangkok, Hanoi or Beijing.
Australian Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-353800; www.laos.embassy.gov.au; Th Tha Deua, Ban Wat Nak, Vientiane; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Also represents nationals of Canada and New Zealand.
Cambodian Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314952; Th Tha Deua, Km 3, Ban That Khao, Vientiane; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Issues visas for US$30.
Chinese Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-315105; http://la.china-embassy.org/eng; Th Wat Nak Nyai, Ban Wat Nak, Vientiane; h8-11.30am Mon-Fri) Issues visas in four working days.
French Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-215258; www.ambafrance-laos.org; Th Setthathirath, Ban Si Saket, Vientiane; h9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
German Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-312110; www.vientiane.diplo.de; Th Sok Pa Luang, Vientiane; h9am-noon Mon-Fri)
Myanmar Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314910; Th Sok Pa Luang, Vientiane; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Issues tourist visas in three days for US$20.
Thai Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214581; www.thaiembassy.org/vientiane; Th Kaysone Phomvihane, Vientiane; h8.30am-noon & 1-3.30pm Mon-Fri) For visa renewals and extensions, head to the consulates in Vientiane ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214581; 15 Th Bourichane, Vientiane; h8am-noon & 1-4.30pm) or Savannakhet ( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212373; Rte 9 West, Savannakhet; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri), which issues same-day tourist and non-immigrant visas (1000B).
UK Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-7700000; www.gov.uk; Th J Nehru, Ban Saysettha, Vientiane; h8.30-11.30am Mon-Fri)
US Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-487000; http://laos.usembassy.gov; Th Tha Deua, Ban Somvang Thai, Km 9, Hatsayfong District, Vientiane; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Based in a new building to the south of the city.
Vietnamese Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-413400; www.mofa.gov.vn/vnemb.la; Th That Luang, Vientiane; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Issues tourist visas in three working days for US$45, or in one day for US$60. The Luang Prabang consulate issues tourist visas for US$60 in a few minutes, or US$45 if you wait a few days. At the consulates in Pakse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214199; www.vietnamconsulate-pakse.org; Th 21; h7.30-11.30am & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri) and Savannakhet, visas cost US$60.
Etiquette
The Lao people are generally very gracious hosts, but there are some important spiritual and social conventions to observe.
ABuddhism When visiting temples, cover up to the knees and elbows, and remove your shoes and any head covering when entering temple buildings. Sit with your feet tucked behind you to avoid pointing them at Buddha images. Women should never touch a monk or his belongings; step out of the way and don't sit next to them on public transport.
ALocal greeting Called the nop, the local greeting in Laos involves putting your hands together in a prayer-like manner. Use this when being introduced to new Lao friends.
AModesty Avoid wearing swimsuits or scanty clothing when walking around towns in Laos, particularly after tubing in Vang Vieng. Wear a sarong or similar to cover up.
ASaving face Never get into an argument with a Lao person. It's better to smile through any conflict.
Food & Drink
While Lao food may not have the variety and depth of the more famous
cuisines of neighbouring China, Thailand and Vietnam, you can still have a culinary adventure in Laos if you take the time to learn a little about the cuisine. Experimentation goes a long way to appreciating the cuisine and can be very rewarding.
It's little surprise that Lao food is similar to Thai cuisine given the long interwoven history of the two countries, but there are some dishes in the cuisine that are unmistakably Lao.
The Basics
Laos has a great range of dining options in the cities, but the choice dries up quickly in remote areas. Booking ahead may occasionally be necessary at popular places in Luang Prabang or Vientiane during peak season or at weekends.
ARestaurants These range from local hole-in-the-wall spots and street markets to sophisticated international bistros. Most cuisines are covered in Vientiane and Luang Prabang, but it's mainly Lao, Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese elsewhere.
ACafes A legacy of the French, Laos has a sophisticated coffee culture. The best cafes are found in Luang Prabang and Vientiane, but most larger towns offer some sort of caffeine fix.
ABeer gardens A lot of larger restaurants in provincial Laos double as beer gardens by night, serving copious amounts of Beerlao to a local crowd.
Typical Dishes
The standard Lao breakfast is fĕr (rice noodles), usually served floating in a broth with vegetables and a meat of your choice. The trick is in the seasoning, and Lao people will stir in some fish sauce, lime juice, dried chillies, mint leaves, basil, or one of the wonderful speciality hot chilli sauces that many noodle shops make, testing it along the way.
Láhp is the most distinctively Lao dish, a delicious spicy salad made from minced beef, pork, duck, fish or chicken, mixed with fish sauce, small shallots, mint leaves, lime juice, roasted ground rice and lots and lots of chillies. Another famous Lao speciality is đąm màhk hung (known as som tam in Thailand), a salad of shredded green papaya mixed with garlic, lime juice, fish sauce, sometimes tomatoes, palm sugar, land crab or dried shrimp and, of course, chillies by the handful.
In lowland Lao areas almost every dish is eaten with kòw nĕeo (sticky rice), which is served in a small basket. Take a small amount of rice and, using one hand, work it into a walnut-sized ball before dipping it into the food.
In main centres, delicious French baguettes are a popular breakfast food. Sometimes they're eaten with condensed milk, or with kai (eggs) in a sandwich that also contains Lao-style pâté and vegetables.
Vegetarians & Vegans
Almost all Lao dishes contain some sort of animal product, be it fish sauce, shrimp paste or lard. There are very few dedicated vegetarian or vegan restaurants in Laos, but traveller-oriented restaurants and cafes usually have some vegetarian dishes available. It is important to learn some basic food vocabulary in remote areas. The best all-round phrase to learn is 'I only eat vegetables' or 'kòy gin đaa pak' in Lao.
EATING PRICE RANGES
Virtually all restaurants in Laos are inexpensive by international standards. The following price ranges refer to a main course.
$ less than US$5 (40,000K)
$$ US$5–15 (40,000–120,000K)
$$$ more than US$15 (120,0000K)
Drinks
On the drinks front, Beerlao remains a firm favourite with 90% of the nation, while officially illegal lòw-lów (Lao liquor or rice whisky) is a popular drink among lowland Lao. It's usually taken neat and offered in villages as a welcoming gesture. International wine and spirits are widely available in big cities, though not in smaller towns and villages.
Drinking water is simply called nâm deum, whether it's boiled or filtered. All water offered to customers in restaurants or hotels will be purified, and purified water is sold everywhere. Check that the ice in any drink originated from purified water.
Juice bars proliferate around Vientiane and Luang Prabang, and smoothies are usually on the menu in most international cafes. Lao coffee is usually served strong and sweet. Lattes and cappuccinos are springing up across the country with pasteurised milk coming from Thailand.
Chinese-style green tea is the usual ingredient in nâm sáh or sáh lôw, the weak, refreshing tea traditionally served free in restaurants. For Lipton-style tea, ask for sáh hôrn (hot tea).
Insurance
A good travel-insurance policy, as always, is a wise investment. Laos is generally considered a high-risk area, and with limited medical services it's vital to have a policy that covers being evacuated (medivaced), by air if necessary, to a hospital in Thailand. Read the small print in any policy to see if hazardous activities are covered; rock climbing, rafting and motorcycling are often not.
If you undergo medical treatment in Laos or Thailand, be sure to collect all receipts and copies of the medical report, in English if possible, for insurance purposes.
Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime, even if you’re already on the road.
Internet Access
Free wi-fi is pretty standard these days and available in many guesthouses, hotels and cafes in the main tourist destinations around Laos. Internet cafes are still around but are increasingly rare. It's possible to get online in most provincial capitals, with prices ranging from 5000K per hour in popular centres to as much as 10,000K or more per hour in provincial backwaters.
Computers in most internet cafes have instant-messaging software and Skype, although headsets are not always available.
Legal Matters
Although Laos guarantees certain rights, the reality is that you can be fined, detained or deported for any reason, as has been demonstrated repeatedly in cases involving foreigners.
If you stay away from anything you know to be illegal, you should be fine. If not, things might get messy and expensive. Drug possession and using prostitutes are the most common crimes for which travellers are caught, often with the dealer or consort being the one to inform the authorities. Sexual relationships between foreigners and Lao citizens who are not married are illegal; penalties for failing to register a relationship range from fines of US$500 to US$5000, and possibly imprisonment or deportation.
If you are detained, ask to call your embassy or consulate in Laos, if there is one. A meeting or phone call between Lao officers and someone from your embassy/consulate may result in quicker adjudication and release.
Police sometimes ask for bribes for traffic violations and other petty offences.
LGBTI Travellers
For the most part Lao culture is very tolerant of homosexuality, although lesbianism is often either denied completely or misunderstood. The gay and lesbian scene is not nearly as prominent as in neighbouring Thailand, but you might find something happening in Vientiane if you're lucky. Strictly speaking, homosexuality is illegal, though we haven't heard of police busting anyone in recent years. In any case, public displays of affection, whether heterosexual or homosexual, are frowned upon.
Sticky Rice (www.stickyrice.ws) Gay travel guide covering Laos and Asia.
Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com) Gay travel information and contacts, including some local gay terminology.
Money
The official national currency in Laos is the Lao kip (K). Although only kip is legally negotiable in everyday transactions, in reality three currencies are used for commerce: kip, Thai baht (B) and US dollars (US$).
ATMs
ATMs are now found all over Laos. But before you get too excited, ATMs dispense a maximum of 700,000K to 2 million K (about US$85 to US$250) per transaction, depending on the bank, not to mention a variable withdrawal fee. If you also have to pay extortionate charges to your home bank on each overseas withdrawal, this can quickly add up.
Credit Cards
A growing number of hotels, upmarket restaurants and gift shops in Vientiane and Luang Prabang accept Visa and MasterCard, and, to a much lesser extent, Amex and JCB. Outside of these main towns, credit cards are virtually useless.
Banque pour le Commerce Extérieur Lao (BCEL) b
ranches in most major towns offer cash advances/withdrawals on MasterCard and Visa credit/debit cards for a 3% transaction fee. Other banks may have slightly different charges, so it might be worth shopping around in Vientiane.
Currency
Laos relies heavily on the Thai baht and the US dollar for the domestic cash economy. An estimated one-third of all cash circulating in Vientiane, in fact, bears the portrait of the Thai king, while another third celebrates US presidents. Kip is usually preferred for small purchases, while more expensive items and services may be quoted in kip, baht or dollars. Anything costing the equivalent of US$100 or more is likely to be quoted in US dollars.
The majority of transactions will be carried out in kip, however, so it's always worth having a wad in your pocket. Notes come in denominations of 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000 and 100,000 kip. Small vendors, especially in rural areas, will struggle to change 100,000K notes.
Moneychangers
After years of volatility the kip has in recent times remained fairly stable at about 8000K to the US dollar. Don't, however, count on this remaining the same.
Generally exchange rates are virtually the same whether you're changing at a bank or a moneychanger. Both are also likely to offer a marginally better rate for larger bills (US$50 and US$100) than smaller bills (US$20 and less). Banks in Vientiane and Luang Prabang can generally change UK pounds, euros, Canadian, US and Australian dollars, Thai baht and Japanese yen. Elsewhere most provincial banks usually change only US dollars or baht.
Lonely Planet Laos Page 55
