River Ferries (Slowboats) & River Taxis
The slowboat between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang is the most popular river trip in Laos. It is still a daily event and relatively cheap at about 200,000K or US$25 per person for the two-day journey. From Huay Xai, these basic boats are often packed, while travelling in the other direction from Luang Prabang there seems to be more room. Passengers sit, eat and sleep on the wooden decks. The toilet (if there is one) is an enclosed hole in the deck at the back of the boat.
For shorter river trips, such as Luang Prabang to the Pak Ou Caves, it's usually best to hire a river taxi. The héua hang nyáo (longtail boats) are the most common and cost around US$10 an hour.
Along the upper Mekong River between Huay Xai and Vientiane, Thai-built héua wái (speedboats) are common. They can cover a distance in six hours that might take a ferry two days or more. Charters cost at least US$30 per hour, but some ply regular routes so the cost can be shared among passengers. They are, however, rather dangerous and we recommend taking one only if absolutely necessary.
Tours
With public boat routes becoming increasingly hard to find, tour companies are offering kayaking and rafting trips on some of the more scenic stretches of river. The best places to organise these are Luang Namtha, Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw, Vang Vieng, Tha Khaek and Pakse.
For something a bit more luxurious, Mekong Cruises (www.mekong-cruises.com) and Mekong River Cruises both offer multiday cruises along the Mekong on refurbished river barges.
TYPES OF BOAT
Following are some of the héua (boats) that you may encounter in your adventures along Laos' many waterways:
Héua sáh (double-deck slowboats) Big, old boats; almost extinct.
Héua dooan (express boat) Roofed cargo boats, common on the Huay Xai–Luang Prabang route. Still slow, but faster than double-deck boats.
Héua wái (speedboat) These resemble a surfboard with a car engine strapped to the back: very fast, exhilarating, deafeningly loud, uncomfortable and rather dangerous. Not recommended.
Héua hăhng nyáo (longtail boat) Boats with the engine gimbal-mounted on the stern; found all over Laos.
Héua pái (row boat) Essentially a dugout; common in Si Phan Don.
Bus & Sŏrngtăaou
Long-distance public transport in Laos is either by bus or sŏrngtăaou (literally 'two rows'), which are converted pick-ups or trucks with benches down either side. Private operators have established VIP buses on some busier routes, offering faster and more luxurious air-con services that cost a little more than normal buses. Many guesthouses can book tickets for a small fee.
Sŏrngtăaou usually service shorter routes within a given province. Most decent-sized villages have at least one sŏrngtăaou, which will run to the provincial capital and back most days.
Car & Motorcycle
Driving in Laos is easier than it looks. Sure, the road infrastructure is pretty basic, but outside of the large centres there are so few vehicles that it's a doddle compared to Vietnam, China or Thailand.
Motorcyclists planning to ride through Laos should check out the wealth of information at Golden Triangle Rider (www.gt-rider.com). Doing some sort of motorbike loop out of Vientiane is becoming increasingly popular among travellers.
Bring Your Own Vehicle
Bringing a vehicle into Laos is easy enough if you have proof of ownership and a carnet. Simply get the carnet stamped at any international border and there is no extra charge or permit required.
Coming from Thailand, which doesn't recognise the carnet system, an International Transport Permit, known in Thailand as the lêm sĕe môoang (purple book), is required. This is available at Nong Khai's Land Transport Office (%042-411591, ext 103; h8.30am-4.30pm). You'll need your vehicle's official registration book and tax receipts, your passport and an international driving permit or Thai driver's licence.
On the Lao side you'll need all the documents mentioned above and will also need to arrange Lao vehicle insurance (about 300B for a week).
Exiting into Thailand or Cambodia is fairly hassle-free if your papers are in order. Vietnam is a different story and it is probably best not to even consider a crossing. Heading to China it's virtually impossible to drive a vehicle larger than a bicycle across the border.
Driving Licences
Officially at least, to drive in Laos a valid international driving permit is required. If you're only renting motorbikes you'll never be asked for any sort of licence.
Fuel & Spare Parts
At the time of research fuel cost about US$1 a litre for petrol, slightly less for diesel. Fuel for motorcycles is available from drums or Beerlao bottles in villages across the country, although prices are almost always higher than at service stations. Diesel is available in most towns. It's best to fuel up in bigger towns at big-brand service stations because the quality of fuel can be poor in remote areas.
Spare parts for four-wheeled vehicles are expensive and difficult to find, even in Vientiane.
Hire
Chinese- and Japanese-made 100cc and 110cc step-through motorbikes can be hired for approximately 40,000K to 100,000K per day in most large centres and some smaller towns, although the state of the bikes can vary greatly. No licence is required. Try to get a Japanese bike if travelling any distance out of town. In Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, Tha Khaek and Pakse, 250cc dirt bikes are available from around US$25 to US$50 per day.
It's possible to hire a self-drive vehicle, but when you consider that a driver usually costs no more, takes responsibility for damage and knows where he's going, it looks risky. Costs run from US$40 to US$100 per day, depending on the route.
Vientiane-based Avis is a reliable option for car hire. When it comes to motorbikes, try Drivenbyadventure or Fuark Motorcycle Hire in Vientiane.
Insurance
Car-hire companies will provide insurance, but be sure to check exactly what is covered. Note that most travel-insurance policies don't cover use of motorcycles.
Road Conditions
While the overall condition of roads is poor, work over the last decade has left most of the main roads in reasonable shape.
Elsewhere, unsurfaced roads are the rule. Laos has about 23,000km of classified roads and less than a quarter are sealed. Unsurfaced roads are particularly tricky in the wet season when many routes are impassable to all but 4WD vehicles and motorbikes, while in the dry season the clouds of dust kicked up by passing traffic makes travel highly uncomfortable, especially in a sŏrngtăaou or by motorbike. Bring a face mask. Wet or dry, Laos is so mountainous that relatively short road trips can take forever.
Road Hazards
Try to avoid driving at dusk and after dark: cows, buffaloes, chickens and dogs, not to mention thousands of people, head for home on the unlit roads, turning them into a dangerous obstacle course.
Road Rules
The single most important rule to driving in Laos is to expect the unexpected. Driving is on the right side, but it's not unusual to see Lao drivers go the wrong way down the left lane before crossing over to the right, a potentially dangerous situation if you're not ready for it. At intersections it's normal to turn right without looking left.
Motorcycle Tips
There are few more liberating travel experiences than renting a motorbike and setting off; stopping where you want, when you want. The lack of traffic and stunningly beautiful roads make Laos one of the best places in the region to do it. There are, however, a few things worth knowing before you hand over your passport as collateral to rent a bike.
The bike Price and availability mean that the vast majority of travellers rent Chinese 110cc bikes. No 110cc bike was designed to be used like a dirt bike, but Japanese bikes deal with it better and are worth the extra few dollars a day.
The odometer Given that many roads have no kilometre stones and turn-offs are often unmarked, it's worth getting a bike with a working odometer. Most bike shops can fix an odometer in about 10 minutes for a few dollars
. Money well spent, as long as you remember to note the distance when you start.
The gear Don't leave home without sunscreen, a hat, a plastic raincoat or poncho, a bandanna and sunglasses. Even the sealed roads in Laos get annoyingly dusty, so these last two are vital. A helmet is essential (ask for one if they don't offer), as is wearing trousers and shoes, lest you wind up with the ubiquitous leg burn.
The problems Unless you're very lucky, something will go wrong. Budget some time for it.
The responsibility In general, you can ride a motorbike in Laos without a licence, a helmet or any safety gear whatsoever, but for all this freedom you must take all the responsibility. If you have a crash, there won't be an ambulance to pick you up, and when you get to the hospital, facilities will be basic. Carrying a basic medical kit and phone numbers for hospitals in Thailand and your travel insurance provider is a good idea. The same goes for the bike. If it really dies you can't just call the company and get a replacement. You'll need to load it onto the next pick-up or sŏrngtăaou and take it somewhere they can fix it. Don't abandon it by the road, or you'll have to pay for another one.
Local Transport
Although most town centres are small enough to walk around, even relatively small settlements often place their bus stations several kilometres out of town.
Bus
Vientiane is the only city with a network of local buses, though, with the exception of a few key recommended routes, they're not much use to travellers.
Sŏrngtăaou, Jumbo, Săhm-Lór & Tuk-tuk
The various pick-ups and three-wheeled taxis found in Vientiane and provincial capitals have different names depending on where you are. Largest are the sŏrngtăaou, which double as buses in some areas and as local buses around bigger towns. Larger three-wheelers are called jąmbǫh (jumbo) and can hold four to six passengers on two facing seats. In Vientiane they are sometimes called tuk-tuks as in Thailand (though traditionally in Laos this refers to a slightly larger vehicle than the jumbo). These three-wheeled conveyances are also labelled simply taak-see (taxi) or, usually for motorcycle sidecar-style vehicles, săhm-lór (three-wheels). The old-style bicycle săhm-lór (pedicab), known as a cyclo elsewhere in Indochina, is an endangered species in Laos.
Taxi
Vientiane has a handful of taxis that are used by foreign business people and the occasional tourist, while in other cities a taxi of sorts can be arranged. They can be hired by the trip, by the hour or by the day. Typical all-day hire within a town or city costs between US$35 and US$50, subject to negotiations.
Train
Currently Laos has just 3km of railway line connecting Nong Khai to Vientiane Prefecture via the Friendship Bridge. Plans are underway to extend this line to central Vientiane, and eventually connect with a Chinese-funded railway line from Kunming to Vientiane via Luang Prabang, which is currently under construction.
Health
Before You Go
In Laos
Health
Health issues and the quality of medical facilities vary enormously depending on where and how you travel in Laos. Travellers tend to worry about contracting infectious diseases when in the tropics, but infections are a rare cause of serious illness or death in travellers. Pre-existing medical conditions such as heart disease and accidental injury account for most of the life-threatening problems. Falling ill in some way, however, is relatively common. Fortunately, most common illnesses can either be prevented with common-sense behaviour or be treated easily with a well-stocked traveller's medical kit.
Before You Go
Pack medications in their original, clearly labelled, containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including generic names, is also a good idea. If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to have a physician's letter documenting their medical necessity.
If you happen to take any regular medication, bring double your needs in case of loss or theft. In Laos it can be difficult to find some newer drugs, particularly the latest antidepressant drugs, blood-pressure medications and contraceptive pills.
Insurance
Even if you are fit and healthy, don't travel without health insurance, as accidents do happen. Declare any existing medical conditions you have: the insurance company will check if your problem is pre-existing and will not cover you if it is undeclared. You may require extra cover for adventure activities such as rock climbing. If your health insurance doesn't cover you for medical expenses abroad, consider getting extra insurance: check www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings for more information. If you're uninsured, emergency evacuation is extremely expensive.
Find out in advance if your insurance plan will make payments directly to providers or reimburse you later for overseas health expenditures. In Laos, most doctors expect payment in cash. If you have to claim later, keep all the documentation.
Recommended Vaccinations
The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever. Proof of vaccination will only be required if you have visited a country in the yellow-fever zone within the six days prior to entering Southeast Asia.
Specialised travel-medicine clinics are the best source of information on vaccines and will be able to give tailored recommendations.
Most vaccines don't produce immunity until at least two weeks after they're given, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before departure. Ask the doctor for an International Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise known as the yellow booklet), which will list all the vaccinations received.
Medical Checklist
The following are some recommended items for a personal medical kit:
Aantifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole
Aantibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin
Aantibiotics for diarrhoea, eg Norfloxacin or Ciprofloxacin; Azithromycin for bacterial diarrhoea; and Tinidazole for giardiasis or amoebic dysentery
Aantihistamines for allergies, eg Cetrizine for daytime and Promethazine for night
Aanti-inflammatories, eg Ibuprofen
Aantinausea medication, eg Prochlorperazine
Aantiseptic for cuts and scrapes, eg Betadine
Aantispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg Buscopan
Acontraceptives
Adecongestant for colds and flus, eg Pseudoephedrine
ADEET-based insect repellent
Adiarrhoea 'stopper', eg Loperamide
Afirst-aid items such as scissors, plasters (Band Aids), bandages, gauze, thermometer (electronic, not mercury), sterile needles and syringes, and tweezers
Aindigestion medication, eg Quick Eze or Mylanta
Aiodine tablets to purify water
Aoral-rehydration solution for diarrhoea, eg Gastrolyte
Aparacetamol for pain
Apermethrin (to impregnate clothing and mosquito nets) for repelling insects
Asunscreen and hat
Athroat lozenges
Athrush (vaginal yeast infection) treatment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Diflucan tablet
Websites
There is a wealth of travel health advice on the internet.
World Health Organization (WHO; www.who.int/ith) WHO publishes a superb book called International Travel & Health, which is revised annually and is available online for free.
MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com) Provides complete travel-health recommendations for every country and is updated daily.
Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC; www.cdc.gov) Good general information.
Health Advisories
It's usually a good idea to consult your government's travel-health website before departure, if one is available.
Australia (www.smartraveller.gov.au)
Canada (www.travelhealth.gc.ca)
New Zealand (www.safetravel.govt.nz)
UK (www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/staying-safe)
USA (www.cdc.gov/travel)
RECOMMENDED & REQUIRED VACCINATIONS
The World Health Organizati
on (WHO) recommends the following vaccinations for travellers to Southeast Asia, some of which do have side effects:
Adult diphtheria and tetanus Single booster recommended if you've had none in the previous 10 years.
Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another 20 years' protection.
Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is also available, as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A. Lifetime protection occurs in 95% of people.
Measles, mumps and rubella Two doses of MMR required unless you have had the diseases. Many young adults require a booster.
Polio Since 2006, India, Indonesia, Nepal and Bangladesh are the only countries in Asia to have reported cases of polio. Only one booster is required as an adult for lifetime protection.
Typhoid Recommended unless the trip is less than a week and only to developed cities. The vaccine offers around 70% protection, lasts for two to three years and comes as a single shot.
In Laos
Lonely Planet Laos Page 58
