by James Martin
Publishing director: Sarah Lavelle
Commissioning editor: Céline Hughes
Project editor: Samantha Stanley
Design manager: Claire Rochford
Photography: Peter Cassidy
Front cover photography: David Venni
Cover hair and make up: Alice Theobold
Cover fashion stylist: Rachel Gold
Text design: Smith & Gilmour
Food preparation and styling:
James Martin and Sam Head
Props stylist: Polly Webb-Wilson
Home economists: Sam Head and Emma Marsden
Production: Tom Moore and Vincent Smith
First published in 2019 by Quadrille Publishing, an imprint of Hardie Grant Publishing
Quadrille, 52–54 Southwark Street, London SE1 1UN
www.quadrille.com
Text © 2019 James Martin
Photography © 2019 Peter Cassidy
Design and layout © 2019 Quadrille Publishing
The rights of the author have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing of the publisher.
Cataloguing in Publication Data: a catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
eISBN: 978 178713 375 4
CONTENTS
TITLE PAGE
COPYRIGHT PAGE
INTRODUCTION
STARTERS & SNACKS
FISH
SHELLFISH
POULTRY & GAME
MEAT
PUDDINGS & CAKES
INDEX
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INTRODUCTION
Well, where do I even start with writing about the highlights of this trip. Like the French and American books and shows before this one, my Great British Adventure has so much to offer. The country has changed so much over what is a short period of time in terms of its food history. And what a change! The food is so good all over Scotland, Ireland, Wales and England, thanks in part to the amazing people growing, farming, fishing, making, brewing and working in the food and drink industry, making it one of the best in the world.
What is so special is the use of old and new techniques and embracing cultures from around the world that gives us – chefs and cooks – the ingredients to make our job a lot easier. From the tastiest lamb I’ve ever eaten in the far north of the beautiful Orkney Islands, produced the same way it always has been (from sheep grazed on the seaweed behind the longest man-made sheep dyke on the island of North Ronaldsay) to the best langoustines I’ve ever eaten, simply cooked and served with mayonnaise on the banks of Strangford Lough in the south-east of Northern Ireland. There’s the amazing wine and fizz made by the guys at the Camel Valley Vineyard in Cornwall and the fantastic gin – the best I’ve ever tasted, by the way – made in small batches at Forager’s Gin in Snowdonia in Wales. All of this and so, so much more has helped to put Great Britain firmly on the culinary map of the world.
I’ve been involved in food all my life, from when I was a young kid helping out at the pig farm back at home. It was there that I got to understand that great food comes from great ingredients. Not just that, though. By working with food, as I do, I feel you have a much better understanding and respect for it. You realise that producing food – either growing, catching or making it – takes a lot of time, skill and hard work, and without a doubt you respect it and the people who produce it so much more.
There are certain things I would love to go back and see again, like the crab fishermen off the coast of Scotland, who brave the seas to bring us the best-tasting crab you will ever eat, to the small batch of pro-foragers who, as I witnessed, brave the rugged Welsh coastline in a tiny canoe to grab some rock samphire and other bits from the overhanging cliffs.
The TV series, of course, only scratched the surface of the amazing things you can find around Britain and I for one didn’t want to stop.
The same can be said for the places where we can enjoy eating the food we produce. I don’t think there is a country in the world that has managed to change the views that other countries have about their food more than Great Britain, as we found when we had to choose a route around the country. Firstly, I must apologise to the hundreds of food producers and restaurants we didn’t get to see and all the counties we had to just drive through – there was little I could do as we had only a few shows to fit it all in.
That said, what treats we found! Starting with the Waterside Inn at Bray, set up by two French brothers who, I think, epitomise the food scene and what’s changed over the years. Holding their three Michelin stars for 30 years, the Waterside Inn is a very special place and if it housed a family tree of all the people who have worked there, past and present, you would see how much this place has influenced the industry since it began. There are teams of chefs and waiters in kitchens all over the country who will have had a connection with this place somewhere in their food chain.
Then there are the two best meals I’ve eaten in this country so far. A big statement, I know, but well worth it. Gareth Ward at Ynyshir is a top-class cook as is Sat Bains, whose restaurant in Nottingham, which sits under a flyover down a pothole-lined road, is one of the best in the world. So much so that I decided to stay after the crew had gone and work the night’s service with him and his brilliant team.
But there are so many other people I want to thank for their help on this trip, from Michel Roux Snr to the brilliant writer Grace Dent, who I had a great, fun tour of Birmingham’s food scene with. So, there you go – it’s really a massive thank you to them all and to all of you for all your support over what is now 25 years on TV. I hope you enjoy the show and, of course, cooking the recipes in this book as much as I’ve enjoyed making them. Great Britain is a very special place to be and I feel so lucky to live, work and, of course, eat and drink here.
BUFFALO MOZZARELLA, BLACKBERRY & BEETROOT SALAD
It’s amazing to think there are thousands of buffalo roaming the British countryside and those at Laverstoke Park Farm in Hampshire, run by Formula One World Champion Jody Scheckter, produce some of the best buffalo mozzarella. This is a fresh cheese that needs to be eaten quickly – it’s made by warming and stretching the curd, moulding it into balls and storing it in salted water. This adds flavour but degrades the cheese if kept for too long. (Laverstoke’s ice creams are also mega!)
SERVES 2
25ml elderflower cordial
25ml white wine vinegar
50ml olive oil
½ cucumber, deseeded and diced
50g blackberries
200g pre-cooked (not pickled in vinegar) beetroot, sliced
1 ball buffalo mozzarella
2 pickled onions, halved and layers separated
For the curd
500ml buffalo milk
juice of ½ lemon
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
small handful of bergamot leaves or herb flowers (optional)
You will need
a cook’s thermometer
Line a sieve with muslin and rest it over a bowl.
To make the curd, pour the buffalo milk into a medium saucepan and place over a very low heat. Heat to 70°C (160°F) – use a cook’s thermometer to check – then pour in the lemon juice and whisk well. Spoon into the muslin to strain away the liquid for 2 minutes, then spoon the curd into a separate, clean bowl. Discard the liquid. Season the curd well, mix together and chill.
Whisk the elderflower cordial, v
inegar and olive oil together in a bowl, season and add the cucumber and blackberries. Toss together to coat well.
To serve, arrange the beetroot slices on a large serving plate and spoon some of the curd all around. Shred the mozzarella and dot around the plate, then spoon over the dressed cucumber and blackberries, leaving the rest of the dressing in the bowl. Scatter over the onion layers, then spoon over the dressing and decorate with the bergamot leaves or herb flowers, if using.
WILD MUSHROOMS ON TOAST WITH DUCK EGGS & BRITISH TRUFFLE
Cooking with wild mushrooms when they’re in season is a real delight. There are over 14,000 types in Britain, though, so it’s essential to forage with someone who knows what they’re doing. I was in Scotland with Tom Kitchin and we found masses of chicken-of-the-woods and ceps, which he took back to his restaurant in Edinburgh to cook. Truffles are the king of fungi; I’ve even found some in my local woods. Duck eggs are usually larger then hens’, so need a little more cooking. Keeping them in iced water is a great way to enable you to serve several poached eggs at the same time.
SERVES 2
15g butter
300g wild mushrooms
½ garlic clove, crushed
½ shallot, diced
small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
2 slices of sourdough bread
1 tablespoon olive oil
fresh British black truffle, to serve (optional)
For the sauce
15g butter
½ garlic clove, crushed
½ shallot, diced
100g wild mushrooms, torn
100ml double cream
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the eggs
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
4 duck eggs
Start by making the sauce. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat and sauté the garlic, shallot and torn mushrooms for 2–3 minutes, until just starting to soften. Pour in the cream, season and bring to the boil and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Use a stick blender to whizz the ingredients until smooth to make a sauce, then cover, set aside and keep warm.
Fill a bowl with cold water and ice and put to one side. To poach the eggs, bring a large pan of water to the boil then add the vinegar. Using a whisk, swirl the water around to make a whirlpool in the centre then carefully crack an egg into the centre – you might find it easier to crack it into a ramekin and pour from this. Simmer for 3 minutes then carefully lift the poached egg out using a slotted spoon and gently lower into the bowl of iced water. Cook the remaining eggs and leave them in the iced water. Rinse the pan out, fill with boiling water and keep on a simmer – this is used to reheat the eggs later.
Melt the butter for the mushrooms in a large frying pan over a medium heat. As soon as it’s melted, fry the mushrooms with the garlic and shallot for 2–3 minutes. Season well and stir through the parsley.
Toast the sourdough and drizzle with olive oil. Plunge the eggs into the pan of boiling water for around 30 seconds to reheat them, then drain.
To serve, put a piece of toast on each plate, pile the mushrooms over, top each with 2 eggs, spoon over the sauce and grate over the truffle, if using.
CARAMELISED ONION, COURGETTE & WENSLEYDALE QUICHE
‘Real men eat quiche’ is what the team told me as I made this. I don’t know about that, but I can tell you that Wensleydale cheese is a great addition. It was originally made from ewes’ milk by French monks from the Roquefort region who settled in Yorkshire, but commercial production by large dairies using cows’ milk soon spread throughout Britain. In 2013, Yorkshire Wensleydale was granted PGI (protected geographical indication) status and is now made the proper way in Hawes and is the one to look for.
SERVES 8
1 tbsp olive oil
15g butter
2 red onions, sliced
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
300ml double cream
100ml full-fat milk
2 small courgettes, around 225g, thinly sliced, lengthways
3 courgette flowers, sliced lengthways
175g crumbled Wensleydale cheese
For the pastry
300g plain flour, plus a little extra for dusting
150g butter, chilled and diced
a pinch of sea salt
a few thyme sprigs, leaves picked (optional)
1 egg, beaten
Start by caramelising the onions for the filling. Heat the oil and butter in a medium pan over a medium heat. Once the butter has melted, stir in the onions and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook over a low heat for 20–25 minutes, stirring every now and then until the onions have softened and caramelised. If they look as though they’re burning, add a tablespoon of water and stir in. Spread onto a plate and set aside to cool.
Make the pastry. Put the flour into a bowl, add the butter, salt and thyme (if using) and rub together with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the egg and mix with a knife until the mixture forms clumps, then bring together lightly with your hands. Add a couple of teaspoons of water if the dough feels dry. Dust a clean work surface with flour and knead lightly and quickly until smooth. Wrap in clingfilm and chill for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan)/350°F/gas 4.
Lightly flour your work surface and roll out the pastry to a rough circle measuring about 32cm in diameter. Carefully lift the pastry into a 27-cm fluted tart tin and gently press into the corners.
To make the filling, put the eggs and egg yolks, cream and milk into a jug and whisk together. Season well and whisk again. Spread the onions over the base of the pastry, arrange the courgettes and courgette flowers on top (see overleaf) and scatter over the cheese. Pour the egg mixture into the tart tin and give it a little shake so that it spreads evenly. Carefully slide the tart tin onto a baking sheet and bake in the preheated oven for 45–50 minutes, until the filling is set.
Once cooked, take the quiche out of the oven, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then trim the pastry edges. Serve hot, warm or cold with a green salad. Leftovers keep very well for the next day but the filling will be a little firmer after a night in the fridge.
ONION & STOUT SOUP WITH HOMEMADE BUTTER & SODA BREAD
I love this soup. It’s so simple to make and the result you get from just a few ingredients is amazing. Stout, of course, is the key, giving it a real depth of flavour, but make sure you cook the onions until golden brown to get more flavour, too. Soda bread is a great one to start with on your bread-making journey as it’s so easy.
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 medium onions, sliced
250ml stout
500ml beef stock
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
300ml double cream
200g Irish cheddar cheese
For the soda bread
170g self-raising flour
170g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
300ml buttermilk
For the homemade butter
750ml double cream
pinch of sea salt
To serve
25ml double cream
25ml olive oil
50g Irish cheddar cheese, crumbled
Preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan)/400°F/gas 6.
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and stir in the onions. Cook over a low to medium heat for 10–12 minutes until the onions start to soften and turn golden. Pour in the stout and stock, then season and stir everything together. Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 10–15 minutes.
To make the soda bread, sift both types of flour, the salt and bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in the buttermilk. Use a round-bladed table knife to mix everything together to make a rough dough, taking care not to ove
rwork it or the finished bread won’t be as light.
Divide the dough in half and lift onto a clean work surface and shape each one into a round about 15cm in diameter and 3cm thick. Dust with a little flour and cut a cross on top using a sharp knife. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake for 15–20 minutes until golden. To check the bread is baked all the way through, tap each base – they should sound hollow. If not quite there, return to the oven to continue baking and check after 5 minutes.
To make the butter, put the double cream into the bowl of a freestanding mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk on high speed until the cream separates. Strain the mixture through a sieve lined with muslin into a bowl and lift the solids left in the muslin into a clean tea towel. Wrap the tea towel around them and squeeze out the liquid. (This liquid is buttermilk; you could use it to make more soda bread.) Unwrap the tea towel and place the butter onto greaseproof paper. Sprinkle with a little salt, mix together and shape the butter into a log.
Pour the cream into the soup, then crumble the cheese in. Season and blitz with a stick blender or transfer to a liquidiser and blitz until smooth. Reheat the soup in the pan until heated through.
Ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle with cream and oil, then scatter over the cheese. Serve with the soda bread and homemade butter.
ISLE OF WIGHT DOUBLE-BAKED CHEESE SOUFFLÉS
I used to drive past Briddlesford Lodge Farm on my trips to the Isle of Wight but it’s become my first stop when I arrive on the island. The milk from their Guernsey cow herd produces the most fantastic cheese, cream and butter. You can also buy amazing veal from the butcher’s shop on site and they make a mean breakfast in the café! Any cheddar cheese will do for this recipe, though, so give it a try.
SERVES 4
40g butter, plus extra, softened, to grease
40g plain flour, plus extra to dust
250ml milk
200g grated cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon chopped rosemary
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
