A great deal of cocoa-nut oil is also obtained in various places. Someof the uninhabited islands are covered with dense groves; and theungathered nuts which have fallen year after year, lie upon theground in incredible quantities. Two or three men, provided with thenecessary apparatus for trying out the oil, will, in the course of aweek or two, obtain enough to load one of the large sea-canoes.
Cocoa-nut oil is now manufactured in different parts of the SouthSeas, and forms no small part of the traffic carried on with tradingvessels. A considerable quantity is annually exported from theSociety Islands to Sydney. It is used in lamps and for machinery,being much cheaper than the sperm, and, for both purposes, betterthan the right-whale oil. They bottle it up in large bamboos, six oreight feet long; and these form part of the circulating medium ofTahiti.
To return to the ship. The wind dying away, evening came on before wedrew near the island. But we had it in view during the wholeafternoon.
It was small and round, presenting one enamelled level, free fromtrees, and did not seem four feet above the water. Beyond it wasanother and larger island, about which a tropical sunset was throwingits glories; flushing all that part of the heavens, and making itflame like a vast dyed oriel illuminated.
The Trades scarce filled our swooning sails; the air was languid withthe aroma of a thousand strange, flowering shrubs. Upon inhaling it,one of the sick, who had recently shown symptoms of scurvy, cried outin pain, and was carried below. This is no unusual effect in suchinstances.
On we glided, within less than a cable's length of the shore which wasmargined with foam that sparkled all round. Within, nestled thestill, blue lagoon. No living thing was seen, and, for aught weknew, we might have been the first mortals who had ever beheld thespot. The thought was quickening to the fancy; nor could I helpdreaming of the endless grottoes and galleries, far below the reach ofthe mariner's lead.
And what strange shapes were lurking there! Think of those archcreatures, the mermaids, chasing each other in and out of the coralcells, and catching their long hair in the coral twigs!
CHAPTER XVIII.
TAHITI
AT early dawn of the following morning we saw the Peaks of Tahiti. Inclear weather they may be seen at the distance of ninety miles.
"Hivarhoo!" shouted Wymontoo, overjoyed, and running out upon thebowsprit when the land was first faintly descried in the distance.But when the clouds floated away, and showed the three peaks standinglike obelisks against the sky; and the bold shore undulating alongthe horizon, the tears gushed from his eyes. Poor fellow! It was notHivarhoo. Green Hivarhoo was many a long league off.
Tahiti is by far the most famous island in the South Seas; indeed, avariety of causes has made it almost classic. Its natural featuresalone distinguish it from the surrounding groups. Two round and loftypromontories, whose mountains rise nine thousand feet above the levelof the ocean, are connected by a low, narrow isthmus; the whole beingsome one hundred miles in circuit. From the great central peaks ofthe larger peninsula--Orohena, Aorai, and Pirohitee--the land radiateson all sides to the sea in sloping green ridges. Between these arebroad and shadowy valleys--in aspect, each a Tempe--watered with finestreams, and thickly wooded. Unlike many of the other islands, thereextends nearly all round Tahiti a belt of low, alluvial soil, teemingwith the richest vegetation. Here, chiefly, the natives dwell.
Seen from the sea, the prospect is magnificent. It is one mass ofshaded tints of green, from beach to mountain top; endlesslydiversified with valleys, ridges, glens, and cascades. Over theridges, here and there, the loftier peaks fling their shadows, andfar down the valleys. At the head of these, the waterfalls flash outinto the sunlight, as if pouring through vertical bowers of verdure.Such enchantment, too, breathes over the whole, that it seems a fairyworld, all fresh and blooming from the hand of the Creator.
Upon a near approach, the picture loses not its attractions. It is noexaggeration to say that, to a European of any sensibility, who, forthe first time, wanders back into these valleys--away from the hauntsof the natives--the ineffable repose and beauty of the landscape issuch, that every object strikes him like something seen in a dream;and for a time he almost refuses to believe that scenes like theseshould have a commonplace existence. No wonder that the Frenchbestowed upon the island the appellation of the New Cytherea."Often," says De Bourgainville, "I thought I was walking in theGarden of Eden."
Nor, when first discovered, did the inhabitants of this charmingcountry at all diminish the wonder and admiration of the voyager.Their physical beauty and amiable dispositions harmonized completelywith the softness of their clime. In truth, everything about them wascalculated to awaken the liveliest interest. Glance at their civiland religious institutions. To their king, divine rights were paid;while for poetry, their mythology rivalled that of ancient Greece.
Of Tahiti, earlier and more full accounts were given, than of anyother island in Polynesia; and this is the reason why it stillretains so strong a hold on the sympathies of all readers of SouthSea voyages. The journals of its first visitors, containing, as theydid, such romantic descriptions of a country and people beforeunheard of, produced a marked sensation throughout Europe; and whenthe first Tahitiana were carried thither, Omai in London, andAotooroo in Paris, were caressed by nobles, scholars, and ladies.
In addition to all this, several eventful occurrences, more or lessconnected with Tahiti, have tended to increase its celebrity. Overtwo centuries ago, Quiros, the Spaniard, is supposed to have touchedat the island; and at intervals, Wallis, Byron, Cook, DeBourgainville, Vancouver, Le Perouse, and other illustriousnavigators refitted their vessels in its harbours. Here the famousTransit of Venus was observed, in 1769. Here the memorable mutiny ofthe Bounty afterwards had its origin. It was to the pagans of Tahitithat the first regularly constituted Protestant missionaries weresent; and from their shores also, have sailed successive missions tothe neighbouring islands.
These, with other events which might be mentioned, have united inkeeping up the first interest which the place awakened; and therecent proceedings of the French have more than ever called forth thesympathies of the public.
CHAPTER XIX.
A SURPRISE--MORE ABOUT BEMBO
THE sight of the island was right welcome. Going into harbour after acruise is always joyous enough, and the sailor is apt to indulge inall sorts of pleasant anticipations. But to us, the occasion washeightened by many things peculiar to our situation.
Since steering for the land, our prospects had been much talked over.By many it was supposed that, should the captain leave the ship, thecrew were no longer bound by her articles. This was the opinion ofour forecastle Cokes; though, probably, it would not have beensanctioned by the Marine Courts of Law. At any rate, such was thestate of both vessel and crew that, whatever might be the event, along stay, and many holidays in Tahiti, were confidently predicted.
Everybody was in high spirits. The sick, who had been improving day byday since the change in our destination, were on deck, and leaningover the bulwarks; some all animation, and others silently admiringan object unrivalled for its stately beauty--Tahiti from the sea.
The quarter-deck, however, furnished a marked contrast to what wasgoing on at the other end of the ship. The Mowree was there, asusual, scowling by himself; and Jermin walked to and fro in deepthought, every now and then looking to windward, or darting into thecabin and quickly returning.
With all our light sails wooingly spread, we held on our way, until,with the doctor's glass, Papeetee, the village metropolis of Tahiti,came into view. Several ships were descried lying in the harbour, andamong them, one which loomed up black and large; her two rows ofteeth proclaiming a frigate. This was the Reine Blanche, last fromthe Marquesas, and carrying at the fore the flag of Rear-Admiral DuPetit Thouars. Hardly had we made her out, when the booming of herguns came over the water. She was firing a salute, which afterwardsturned out to be in honour of a treaty; or rather--as far as thenatives were concerned--a forced cession of Tahit
i to the French,that morning concluded.
The cannonading had hardly died away, when Jermin's voice was heardgiving an order so unexpected that everyone started. "Stand by tohaul back the main-yard!"
"What's that mean?" shouted the men, "are we not going into port?"
"Tumble after here, and no words!" cried the mate; and in a moment themain-yard swung round, when, with her jib-boom pointing out to sea,the Julia lay as quiet as a duck. We all looked blank--what was tocome next?
Presently the steward made his appearance, carrying a mattress, whichhe spread out in the stern-sheets of the captain's boat; two or threechests, and other things belonging to his master, were similarlydisposed of.
This was enough. A slight hint suffices for a sailor.
Still adhering to his resolution to keep the ship at sea in spite ofeverything, the captain, doubtless, intended to set himself ashore,leaving the vessel, under the mate, to resume her voyage at once; butafter a certain period agreed upon, to touch at the island, and takehim off. All this, of course, could easily be done withoutapproaching any nearer the land with the Julia than we now were.Invalid whaling captains often adopt a plan like this; but, in thepresent instance, it was wholly unwarranted; and, everythingconsidered, at war with the commonest principles of prudence andhumanity. And, although, on Guy's part, this resolution showed morehardihood than he had ever been given credit for, it, at the sametime, argued an unaccountable simplicity, in supposing that such acrew would, in any way, submit to the outrage.
It was soon made plain that we were right in our suspicions; and themen became furious. The cooper and carpenter volunteered to head amutiny forthwith; and while Jermin was below, four or five rushed aftto fasten down the cabin scuttle; others, throwing down themain-braces, called out to the rest to lend a hand, and fill away forthe land. All this was done in an instant; and things were lookingcritical, when Doctor Long Ghost and myself prevailed upon them towait a while, and do nothing hastily; there was plenty of time, andthe ship was completely in our power.
While the preparations were still going on in the cabin, we musteredthe men together, and went into counsel upon the forecastle.
It was with much difficulty that we could bring these rash spirits toa calm consideration of the case. But the doctor's influence at lastbegan to tell; and, with a few exceptions, they agreed to be guidedby him; assured that, if they did so, the ship would eventually bebrought to her anchors without anyone getting into trouble. Stillthey told us, up and down, that if peaceable means failed, they wouldseize Little Jule, and carry her into Papeetee, if they all swung forit; but, for the present, the captain should have his own way.
By this time everything was ready; the boat was lowered and brought tothe gangway; and the captain was helped on deck by the mate andsteward. It was the first time we had seen him in more than twoweeks, and he was greatly altered. As if anxious to elude every eye,a broad-brimmed Payata hat was pulled down over his brow; so that hisface was only visible when the brim flapped aside. By a sling, riggedfrom the main-yard, the cook and Bembo now assisted in lowering himinto the boat. As he went moaning over the side, he must have heardthe whispered maledictions of his crew.
While the steward was busy adjusting matters in the boat, the mate,after a private interview with the Mowree, turned round abruptly, andtold us that he was going ashore with the captain, to return as soonas possible. In his absence, Bembo, as next in rank, would command;there being nothing to do but keep the ship at a safe distance fromthe land. He then sprang into the boat, and, with only the cook andsteward as oarsmen, steered for the shore.
Guy's thus leaving the ship in the men's hands, contrary to the mate'sadvice, was another evidence of his simplicity; for at thisparticular juncture, had neither the doctor nor myself been aboard,there is no telling what they might have done.
For the nonce, Bembo was captain; and, so far as mere seamanship wasconcerned, he was as competent to command as anyone. In truth, abetter seaman never swore. This accomplishment, by the bye, togetherwith a surprising familiarity with most nautical names and phrases,comprised about all the English he knew.
Being a harpooner, and, as such, having access to the cabin, this man,though not yet civilized, was, according to sea usages, which know noexceptions, held superior to the sailors; and therefore nothing wassaid against his being left in charge of the ship; nor did itoccasion any surprise.
Some additional account must be given of Bembo. In the first place, hewas far from being liked. A dark, moody savage, everybody but themate more or less distrusted or feared him. Nor were these feelingsunreciprocated. Unless duty called, he seldom went among the crew.Hard stories too were told about him; something, in particular,concerning an hereditary propensity to kill men and eat them. True, hecame from a race of cannibals; but that was all that was known to acertainty.
Whatever unpleasant ideas were connected with the Mowree, hispersonal appearance no way lessened them. Unlike most of hiscountrymen, he was, if anything, below the ordinary height; but then,he was all compact, and under his swart, tattooed skin, the musclesworked like steel rods. Hair, crisp and coal-black, curled overshaggy brows, and ambushed small, intense eyes, always on the glare.In short, he was none of your effeminate barbarians.
Previous to this, he had been two or three voyages in Sydney whalemen;always, however, as in the present instance, shipping at the Bay ofIslands, and receiving his discharge there on the homeward-boundpassage. In this way, his countrymen frequently enter on board thecolonial whaling vessels.
There was a man among us who had sailed with the Mowree on his firstvoyage, and he told me that he had not changed a particle since then.
Some queer things this fellow told me. The following is one of hisstories. I give it for what it is worth; premising, however, thatfrom what I know of Bembo, and the foolhardy, dare-devil featssometimes performed in the sperm-whale fishery, I believe in itssubstantial truth.
As may be believed, Bembo was a wild one after a fish; indeed, all NewZealanders engaged in this business are; it seems to harmonizesweetly with their blood-thirsty propensities. At sea, the bestEnglish they speak is the South Seaman's slogan in lowering away, "Adead whale, or a stove boat!" Game to the marrow, these fellows aregenerally selected for harpooners; a post in which a nervous, timidman would be rather out of his element.
In darting, the harpooner, of course, stands erect in the head of theboat, one knee braced against a support. But Bembo disdained this;and was always pulled up to his fish, balancing himself right on thegunwale.
But to my story. One morning, at daybreak, they brought him up to alarge, long whale. He darted his harpoon, and missed; and the fishsounded. After a while, the monster rose again, about a mile off, andthey made after him. But he was frightened, or "gallied," as theycall it; and noon came, and the boat was still chasing him. Inwhaling, as long as the fish is in sight, and no matter what may havebeen previously undergone, there is no giving up, except when nightcomes; and nowadays, when whales are so hard to be got, frequentlynot even then. At last, Bembo's whale was alongside for the secondtime. He darted both harpoons; but, as sometimes happens to the bestmen, by some unaccountable chance, once more missed. Though it iswell known that such failures will happen at times, they,nevertheless, occasion the bitterest disappointment to a boat's crew,generally expressed in curses both loud and deep. And no wonder. Letany man pull with might and main for hours and hours together, undera burning sun; and if it do not make him a little peevish, he is nosailor.
The taunts of the seamen may have maddened the Mowree; however it was,no sooner was he brought up again, than, harpoon in hand, he boundedupon the whale's back, and for one dizzy second was seen there. Thenext, all was foam and fury, and both were out of sight. The mensheered off, flinging overboard the line as fast as they could; whileahead, nothing was seen but a red whirlpool of blood and brine.
Presently, a dark object swam out; the line began to straighten; thensmoked round the loggerhead, and, quick as thought, th
e boat spedlike an arrow through the water. They were "fast," and the whale wasrunning.
Where was the Mowree? His brown hand was on the boat's gunwale; and hewas hauled aboard in the very midst of the mad bubbles that burstunder the bows.
Such a man, or devil, if you will, was Bembo.
CHAPTER XX.
THE ROUND ROBIN--VISITORS FROM SHORE
AFTER the captain left, the land-breeze died away; and, as is usualabout these islands, toward noon it fell a dead calm. There wasnothing to do but haul up the courses, run down the jib, and lay androll upon the swells. The repose of the elements seemed tocommunicate itself to the men; and for a time there was a lull.
Early in the afternoon, the mate, having left the captain at Papeetee,returned to the ship. According to the steward, they were to goashore again right after dinner with the remainder of Guy's effects.
On gaining the deck, Jermin purposely avoided us and went belowwithout saying a word. Meanwhile, Long Ghost and I laboured hard todiffuse the right spirit among the crew; impressing upon them that alittle patience and management would, in the end, accomplish all thattheir violence could; and that, too, without making a serious matterof it.
For my own part, I felt that I was under a foreign flag; that anEnglish consul was close at hand, and that sailors seldom obtainjustice. It was best to be prudent. Still, so much did I sympathizewith the men, so far, at least, as their real grievances wereconcerned; and so convinced was I of the cruelty and injustice of whatCaptain Guy seemed bent upon, that if need were, I stood ready toraise a hand.
Omoo: Adventures in the South Seas Page 7