Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1
Page 59
A handful of black olives, quartered lengthwise
½ cup ham, diced
½ cup each cooked carrots and beans, diced
1 small head shredded romaine
1 bunch broccoli spears, cooked
Toss the rice in a bowl with droplets of oil, lemon or vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. (Be sure to use a wooden spoon and fork, and toss gently so as not to break the grains.) Toss in the rest of the ingredients except for the romaine and broccoli. Season carefully. Arrange the shredded romaine on plates or a serving dish, mound the rice salad on top, and decorate with the cooked broccoli, which you have seasoned nicely beforehand with salt, pepper, lemon, and oil. (Fresh herbs, such as basil, chives, chervil, and tarragon, are always welcome.)
RISOTTO-PILAF-PILAU
[Risotto—Braised Rice]
This is the standard French method for braised rice, meaning rice sautéed in fat and onions, then cooked in seasoned liquid. Whether the final dish is labeled risotto, pilaf, or pilau it is usually done in this manner regardless of the traditional techniques of other rice-eating nations. A good risotto is simple to make if you bear the following points in mind that apply to a plain risotto as well as to one which includes vegetables, chicken, or sea foods.
SAUTÉING
The rice must first be sautéed slowly in butter for 2 to 3 minutes until it turns a milky color. This cooks the rice-flour coating and prevents the rice from becoming sticky.
PROPORTIONS
Use the correct amount of liquid: 2 cups for each cup of raw rice.
HEAT
Regulate your heat so the liquid is entirely absorbed in 18 to 20 minutes. If the liquid is absorbed too quickly, the rice will not be tender. If it is absorbed too slowly, the rice becomes gummy, the grains disintegrate, and the flavor of the rice is impaired.
STIRRING
Do not stir the rice until all the liquid has been absorbed.
For 6 people
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
¼ cup finely minced onions
4 Tb butter
A 6-cup fireproof casserole about 8 inches in diameter with a tight-fitting cover
Cook the onions and butter slowly in the casserole for about 5 minutes until tender but not browned.
1½ cups clean, unwashed, raw rice
Blend the rice into the onions and butter and stir over moderate heat for several minutes, not letting the rice brown. The grains will at first become translucent, then will gradually turn a milky color.
3 cups boiling liquid, depending on what your risotto is to be served with:
Chicken stock or canned chicken broth
Brown stock or canned beef bouillon and water
Mushroom broth and water
White wine fish stock
White wine or white vermouth, and water
OR, water only
Salt and pepper
A small herb bouquet: 2 parsley sprigs, ⅓ bay leaf, and ⅛ tsp thyme tied in cheesecloth
As soon as the rice looks milky, pour in the boiling liquid. Add the herb bouquet, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to the simmer, stir once, cover the casserole, and set in lower third of preheated oven. As soon as the liquid maintains itself at a very slow boil, in 4 to 5 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees; the boil should be regulated so the liquid has been absorbed by the rice in 14 to 15 minutes. Do not touch the rice during this time. Then uncover the casserole; tilt it and lift rice with a fork to see if all liquid at bottom of casserole has evaporated. If not, return to oven for 2 to 3 minutes more. Then remove the casserole from the oven. If you wish the rice to be slightly al dente, uncover it. If you wish it to become a little more tender, leave it covered for 10 minutes. Discard herb bouquet. Fluff the rice with a fork and correct seasoning.
(*) If not to be used immediately, keep warm over barely simmering water. Or set aside, and reheat casserole over boiling water when needed.
VARIATION
Riz en Couronne
[Rice Ring]
This is how to make a ring of rice which is to be filled with creamed shellfish, sautéed chicken livers with ham and mushrooms, buttered peas, or whatever luscious sauced tidbits you wish.
For 6 people
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
A 6-cup ring mold, smeared with ½ Tb butter
The preceding risotto
A round of waxed paper
A lid to cover the mold
A pan of boiling water to hold the mold
Turn the risotto into the buttered mold, patting down the rice lightly; it should fill the mold exactly. Lay the waxed paper over the risotto. Cover with the lid, and set the mold in the pan of boiling water. Place in lower third of preheated oven for 10 minutes.
A round serving platter, heated and lightly buttered
Just before serving, turn platter upside down over mold and reverse the two, to unmold the rice ring onto the platter.
(*) If risotto is not to be served immediately, leave it in its mold, covered, and over barely simmering water.
PATENTED PARBOILED RICE
This is treated by a special steam process designed to harden the grains so that they will not stick together when cooked. Use it like regular rice, but it may call for a little more liquid and the timing may be a little longer than for regular rice. It is a great invention, and the rice has excellent flavor.
PACKAGED PRECOOKED RICE
This is the type of rice which, according to the printed directions, you mix with salt and boiling water, then cover and let stand for 5 minutes. It can be made much more interesting if you add to it onions or shallots cooked in butter, and use a well seasoned boiling stock rather than boiling salted water.
WILD RICE
Wild rice has hardly been heard of in France, but you can cook it deliriously in the French manner by using a modified risotto technique.
For 6 to 8 people
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
1½ cups wild rice
3 quarts boiling water
1½ Tb salt
Drop the rice in the boiling salted water and boil uncovered for 5 minutes. Drain thoroughly.
3 Tb each: finely minced carrots, onions, and celery
4 Tb butter
A 2½-quart fireproof casserole with cover
1½ cups brown stock or canned beef bouillon
1 bay leaf
¼ tsp thyme
Salt and pepper
While the rice is boiling, cook the minced vegetables slowly in the butter in the casserole for 5 to 6 minutes until tender but not browned. Then add the drained rice and stir over moderate heat for 2 minutes to impregnate it with the butter. Add the stock or bouillon, bay leaf, thyme, and seasonings to taste. Bring to the boil. Cover the casserole and set in lower third of preheated oven for 30 to 35 minutes or until the rice is tender and has absorbed all the liquid. Add a few drops more liquid if all has been absorbed before the rice is tender. The rice grains should emerge separate and lightly filmed with butter. Discard bay leaf. Fluff rice with a fork and correct seasoning.
(*) May be cooked in advance and reheated when needed.
CHAPTER NINE
COLD BUFFET
Préparations Froides
COLD VEGETABLES, composed salads, aspics, molded mousses, pâtés, and terrines, any of these may be served as a first course for a dinner, or be the mainstay of a summer meal. And a collection of such dishes on a buffet table can be most inviting. Recipes for various salad dressings are in the Sauce chapter under vinaigrettes and mayonnaise starting.
COLD VEGETABLES
Légumes Servis Froids
LÉGUMES À LA GRECQUE
[Vegetables Cooked in Aromatic Broth]
Vegetables à la Grecque, a refreshing idea for any time of the year, are simmered in an aromatic court bouillon of water, oil, herbs, and seasonings. After the vegetables have been removed to a serving dish, the court bouillon is boiled down to concentrate its flavor, and is poured over the vegetables. When the v
egetables are cold, serve as hors d’oeuvre, or combine them with other vegetables for a composed salad.
Court Bouillon
[The Aromatic Broth]
For 1 pound (about 4 cups) of vegetables
2 cups water
6 Tb olive oil
⅓ cup lemon juice
½ tsp salt
2 Tb minced shallot or green onions
The following (tied in cheesecloth if you wish):
6 sprigs parsley including roots if available
1 small celery stalk with leaves or ⅛ tsp celery seeds
1 sprig fresh fennel or ⅛ tsp fennel seeds
1 sprig fresh thyme or ⅛ tsp dried thyme
12 peppercorns
6 coriander seeds
A 2½-quart enameled or stainless steel saucepan with cover
Place all the ingredients to the left in the covered saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes.
Champignons à la Grecque
[Mushrooms à la Grecque]
1 lb. fresh mushrooms, button size if possible
1 cup of the preceding court bouillon, strained if you wish
Trim and wash the mushrooms. Leave whole if small, quarter if large. Add them to the simmering court bouillon, tossing them to cover with the liquid. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes.
A slotted spoon
A serving dish
Salt and pepper
Remove the mushrooms from the saucepan with the slotted spoon, and arrange them in a serving dish. Rapidly boil down the court bouillon until it has reduced almost to a syrup. Correct seasoning; strain it over the mushrooms.
(*) When cold, the mushrooms may be covered and refrigerated, and will keep for 2 to 3 days.
2 to 3 Tb minced parsley or mixed green herbs
Sprinkle with herbs just before serving.
VARIATIONS: OTHER VEGETABLES À LA GRECQUE
Any of the following vegetables may be prepared à la Grecque. In each case, make a court bouillon as directed in the preceding recipe, prepare and simmer the vegetables as indicated for each kind in the list, then drain and arrange on a serving dish. Boil down court bouillon until it has reduced almost to a syrup (less than ¼ cup usually). Pour over the vegetables and chill. Sprinkle on minced, fresh green herbs just before serving.
Fonds d’Artichauts à la Grecque
[Artichoke Bottoms à la Grecque]
Fresh artichoke bottoms
Before cooking, trim the artichoke bottoms as described on this page. The choke is removed after cooking. Simmering time is from 30 to 40 minutes.
Frozen artichoke hearts
Before cooking, defrost the artichoke hearts enough so that they can be separated from each other. As they have been acidulated before freezing, use only 1 teaspoon of lemon juice in the court bouillon. Simmering time is about 10 minutes.
Céleri à la Grecque
[Celery à la Grecque]
Buy bunches labeled “celery hearts.” Remove any tough outside stalks. Cut off the tops of the bunches to just below the main body of leaves. Halve or quarter the bunches lengthwise, wash thoroughly under running water, and arrange them in a baking dish. Pour on the simmering court bouillon, adding more water if necessary to cover the celery. Cover the dish, bring to the simmer, and bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until tender.
Concombres à la Grecque
[Cucumbers à la Grecque]
Peel, cut in half lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Cut the halves into ½-inch strips, then into 2-inch pieces. Toss with ½ teaspoon of salt for each 4 cups of cucumber pieces, and let stand in a bowl for 20 minutes. Drain thoroughly, and proceed with the recipe. Simmering time is about 10 minutes.
Aubergines à la Grecque
[Eggplant à la Grecque]
Peel the eggplant, cut into serving pieces, and let stand for 20 minutes in ½ teaspoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice for each 4 cups of eggplant pieces. Drain thoroughly and proceed with the recipe. Simmering time is about 10 minutes.
Endives à la Grecque
[Endive à la Grecque]
Fenouil à la Grecque
[Fennel à la Grecque]
Quarter or halve the endives or fennel lengthwise, wash under cold, running water, then proceed with the recipe. Simmering time is 30 to 40 minutes.
Poireaux à la Grecque
[Leeks à la Grecque]
Trim off the roots, make two lengthwise cuts in green part, remove a portion of the green tops to leave the leeks about 7 inches long. Wash thoroughly under cold, running water, being sure you get off all grit from each leaf. Arrange the leeks in a fireproof dish, pour on the simmering court bouillon, and add boiling water, if necessary, to cover the leeks. Cover the baking dish, bring to the simmer on top of the stove, then bake in a preheated, 350-degree oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until the leeks are tender. Drain off court bouillon, boil it down to ⅓ cup, pour over the leeks, and chill.
Oignons à la Grecque
[Onions à la Grecque]
Buy pearl onions, or small white onions about an inch in diameter. Drop them for 1 minute in boiling water to cover, drain and peel them, then pierce a cross in their root ends to insure even cooking. Proceed with the recipe. Simmering time is 30 to 40 minutes.
Poivrons à la Grecque
[Red or Green Bell Peppers à la Grecque]
Halve the peppers lengthwise, remove seeds and ribs, and slice or quarter the peppers. Proceed with the recipe. Simmering time is about 10 minutes.
CÉLERI-RAVE RÉMOULADE
[Celery Root in Mustard Sauce]
Celeriac or celery root prepared in this manner makes a typically French hors d’oeuvre. But raw celeriac can be tough, and we have suggested a preliminary steeping in salt and lemon before it is dressed. However, if you grate it fine, through a miniature French vegetable mill known as the julienne (available in many import shops, and inexpensive), you can dispense with the steep and move straight on to the dressing.
NOTE: Céleri-rave rémoulade has nothing to do with sauce rémoulade, a mayonnaise with pickles, capers, and other ingredients.
1 lb. celery root (3 to 3½ cups when cut)
A 2-quart mixing bowl
1½ tsp salt
1½ tsp lemon juice
Peel the celery root and cut it into julienne match-sticks as illustrated. Toss in a bowl with the salt and lemon juice, and let steep for 30 minutes. Rinse the pieces in cold water, drain, and dry them in a towel.
4 Tb strong Dijon-type prepared mustard
3 Tb boiling water
A wire whip
⅓ to ½ cup olive oil or salad oil
2 Tb wine vinegar Salt and pepper
Warm the mixing bowl in hot water. Dry it. Add the mustard and beat in the boiling water by droplets with a wire whip. Then beat in the oil by droplets to make a thick creamy sauce. Beat in the vinegar by drops, and season to taste.
2 to 3 Tb chopped mixed green herbs or parsley
Fold the celery root into the sauce, and allow it to marinate for 2 to 3 hours or overnight. Decorate with herbs before serving.
POMMES DE TERRE À L’HUILE
[French Potato Salad—sliced potatoes in oil and vinegar dressing]
French potato salad is prepared while the boiled, sliced potatoes are still warm, so they will absorb the dressing. The salad may be eaten warm with grilled sausage, or cold. Mayonnaise may be folded into the potatoes if you wish. Be sure to use potatoes which may be boiled and sliced without crumbling.
For about 6 cups
2 lbs. “boiling” potatoes (8 to 10 medium potatoes)
A 3-quart mixing bowl
Scrub the potatoes. Drop them in boiling salted water to cover, and boil until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a small knife. Drain. As soon as they are cool enough to handle, peel, and cut them into slices about ⅛ inch thick. Place them in the mixing bowl.
4 Tb dry white wine, or 2 Tb dry white vermouth and 2 Tb stock or canned bouillon
Pour the wine or vermouth and stock or bouillon over the warm potato slices and toss very gently. Set aside for a few minutes until the potatoes have absorbed the liquids.
2 Tb wine vinegar, or 1 Tb vinegar and 1 Tb lemon juice
1 tsp prepared mustard
¼ tsp salt
A small bowl and wire whip
6 Tb olive oil or salad oil
Pepper
Optional: 1 to 2 Tb minced shallots or green onions
Beat the vinegar or vinegar and lemon juice, mustard, and salt in the small bowl until the salt has dissolved. Then beat in the oil by droplets. Season to taste, and stir in the optional shallots or onions. Pour the dressing over the potatoes and toss gently to blend.
2 to 3 Tb chopped mixed green herbs or parsley
Serve them while still warm, or chill. Decorate with herbs before serving.