Alternative Baker
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To make the filling, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, combine the yogurt, cream, honey and orange blossom water. Whip on medium-high speed until the mixture holds firm peaks. (Alternatively, beat with a sturdy wire whisk or hand beater in a large bowl.) Cover and chill until needed, up to several hours. Re-whip if the mixture has separated.
Divide the whipped yogurt among the baked, cooled tartlet crusts, filling them nearly to the top and spreading the yogurt into an even layer.
Slice the figs lengthwise ⅛-inch (3-mm) thick, discarding the round ends and keeping the slices together. Fan the slices over the yogurt-filled tart crust, curving the slices with the tart sides to form a ring of overlapping slices. Sprinkle the figs on each tart with 1 teaspoon sugar. Use a kitchen torch to burn the sugar, holding it straight down and several inches away from the figs, until the sugar is golden and bubbling. As you work, wave the torch in small circles. If the sugar blackens, hold the torch farther away.
Repeat with the remaining tartlets and serve right away (or chill for up to 30 minutes).
NOTE: If you don’t have a kitchen torch, don’t despair: place the fig slices in an even layer on a baking sheet, sprinkle with the sugar and place under the broiler until the sugar has caramelized, a minute or two. Scrape the figs off the pan and over the tarts for a messier—though still tasty—presentation. Or skip the sugar altogether and top the fresh figs with a drizzle of honey.
APPLE CHESTNUT TART WITH SALTY CARAMEL
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, CHESTNUT}
The classic apple tart is the soul of simplicity, epitomizing French baking at its finest. I learned to make it while working at an organic French-style bakery in San Francisco. Thinly sliced apples are nestled into an unbaked tart shell, topped with a bit of butter and sugar, and given a long bake. The juices from the apples mix with the butter and sugar, and the submerged apples bake into a chunky jamlike texture while the tips caramelize and retain a bit of bite.
Against a crumbly crust warm from earthy chestnut flour and topped with gooey caramel, this updated version makes a sensational dessert for fall and winter months, especially when served warm from the oven with Whipped Crème Fraîche or Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Store leftovers airtight in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. If you’re short on time or crave a more traditional finish, skip the caramel and brush the tart with a few tablespoons of apricot jam loosened with a few drops of water, heated and strained.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8–10 SERVINGS
CRUST
One 9-inch (23-cm) Chestnut Tart Crust, unbaked and frozen
FILLING
5 medium-sized tart, firm baking apples, such as Granny Smith or Belle de Boskoop (1¾ lb [800 g])
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter, in small pieces
½ cup (120 ml) Salty Caramel (any variation, at room temperature or warm enough to drizzle
For the crust, prepare and freeze the tart crust as directed.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Place the frozen, unbaked tart crust on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper for easy cleanup.
To make the filling, use a T-shaped vegetable peeler to peel the apples. Cut the flesh off the core in large chunks, cutting close to the core (alternatively, halve and core the apples). Cut each chunk or half into slices as thin as possible, about ⅛-inch (3-mm) thick, keeping the slices together and discarding the rounded edges. Fan the slices out lengthwise slightly and place them, cut side facing the center of the tart, around the outside of the shell, tucking the last apple under the first to make a continuous loop. Repeat with a second layer just inside the first, reversing the fan if you like, and continue until you’ve filled the tart, tucking in as many of the extra pieces as you can; the apples will reduce a lot as they cook. Sprinkle all over with the sugar and dot with the butter.
Bake the tart until the tips of the apples are bronzed and the fruit is bubbling furiously, 65–75 minutes. There’s a fine line between cooking the apples all the way and burning the crust, so keep an eye on that as well and remove the tart early if the crust becomes too dark.
Let the tart cool most of the way, 1 hour, then drizzle all over with the caramel and serve warm or at room temperature. The tart is best the day of baking and will keep at room temperature for up to 1 day. Store leftovers, refrigerated airtight, for up to 2 days.
NOTE: A T-shaped vegetable peeler is my favorite tool for peeling apples. And rather than halving the apples and cutting out their core, I like to simply hold the apple stem side up on a cutting board and cut off large chunks, cutting as close to the core as possible, cutting around the apple until all the flesh is removed.
CHOCOLATE CRANBERRY PECAN TART
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE}
Pecan pie is a tricky dessert. The filling, a custard made from eggs, butter, sugar and corn syrup, can be toothachingly sweet and unhealthy to boot. I trade out the refined sugars for muscovado and maple syrup, both of which, in addition to containing trace minerals that refined sugars lack, add depth of flavor that kicks corn syrup to the curb. Shards of dark chocolate work with a salt-kissed cocoa crust to deliver a punch of flavor, and cranberries provide the perfect bright counterpoint to the richness of chocolate and nuts, bursting brightly like fresh raspberries. (In fact, raspberries make a fine stand-in when cranberries aren’t around.) This tart gained cult status among my followers, which included people who “find chocolate desserts boring” and others who “don’t have a sweet tooth.” These people fought over slices. When you try a wedge of buttery crust, gooey pecans and tart cranberries topped with a plume of Maple Bourbon Whipped Cream, you’ll see why.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND TART, 10–12 SERVINGS
CRUST
One 9-inch (23-cm) Cocoa Almond Tart Crust parbaked and hot
FILLING
1 cup (100 g) raw pecan halves
2 tbsp (15 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) packed dark muscovado sugar or packed organic dark brown sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
2 large eggs
¼ cup (60 ml) maple syrup
1 tsp vanilla extract
4 tbsp (56 g) unsalted butter, melted
½ cup (85 g) roughly chopped bittersweet chocolate (preferably 70% cacao mass)
1 cup (90 g) fresh or frozen cranberries, halved
Maple Bourbon Whipped Cream for serving
For the crust, prepare and parbake the tart crust as directed.
To make the filling, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C).
Spread the pecans on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast until darkened slightly and fragrant, 10–12 minutes. Cool completely, then use your fingers to break the pecan halves into quarters and eighths.
In a large bowl, whisk together the sweet rice flour, muscovado sugar and salt. Whisk in the eggs, whisking until smooth, then add the maple syrup and vanilla, taking care not to incorporate too much air into the custard. Whisk in the melted butter, then fold in the toasted, cooled pecans.
Sprinkle the chopped chocolate over the bottom of the crust, then the cranberries, and carefully pour in the filling, distributing the nuts evenly.
Bake the tart until the sides are gently puffed and center is wobbly like Jell-O under the nuts and fruit (which will float to the top), 20–30 minutes.
Let cool completely, then cut into slender wedges and serve. Alternatively, chill the tart before cutting into wedges for the cleanest slices, dipping the knife in hot water and wiping it clean between cuts. Serve the tart at room temperature, with a dollop of the whipped cream. The tart is best the day of baking when the crust is crisp, but extras keep well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 4 days.
NOTE: Breaking up the pecans with your fingers rather than chopping creates less dust and keeps the filling pretty and clear.
SALTY CARAMEL BANANA CREAM TA
RT WITH MESQUITE CRUST
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, MESQUITE}
Muscovado sugar and mesquite flour create an earthy base against which creamy custard, ripe bananas and a deep, dark caramel sauce flecked with vanilla bean play. Painting the tart shell with a thin layer of chocolate creates a barrier between the custard and keeps the crust crisp for a day or two. Top slices with an extra pinch or two of flaky salt.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8–10 SERVINGS
CRUST
One 9-inch (23-cm) fully baked Muscovado Mesquite Tart Crust, hot
¼ cup (45 g) finely chopped bittersweet chocolate
FILLING
⅓ cup (65 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3½ tbsp (30 g) cornstarch
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
1½ cups (350 ml) whole milk
½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
4 tbsp (56 g) unsalted butter, in several pieces
3 large ripe but firm bananas (about 1 lb [450 g])
1 recipe Salty Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce, at room temperature
Flaky salt (such as Maldon), for serving
TOPPING
1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 tbsp (10 g) organic granulated cane sugar (to taste)
1 tsp vanilla extract
NOTE: Chocophiles can make this in the Cocoa Almond Tart Crust if preferred.
For the crust, prepare and bake the crust as directed. While still hot, scatter the chocolate pieces over the bottom and let sit for 1 minute to melt the chocolate. Use a small offset spatula or the back of a spoon to spread the chocolate into an even layer all over the bottom and sides of the crust. Let cool until set. The crust can be made up to 1 day ahead and stored airtight at room temperature. When ready to assemble, remove the sides from the pan and place the tart shell on a large plate or serving platter.
To make the filling, in a small saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, salt and vanilla pod and seeds. Whisk in the milk and cream. Bring the mixture to a slow boil over medium-high heat, whisking constantly, making sure to scrape the bottom and corners of the pan with the whisk. Once the mixture comes to a boil, continue cooking and whisking for 1–2 minutes. You’ll have to stop whisking for a few seconds to verify that the pudding is boiling, which you’ll know by the big bubbles that pop gloopily. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter; it should be the consistency of creamy yogurt.
Strain the pudding through a mesh sieve and into a bowl. Press plastic wrap right onto the surface of the pudding, and let cool at room temperature until warm, 30–45 minutes.
When the pudding has cooled, spread half of it into the chocolate-lined tart shell. Slice the bananas ¼-inch (6-mm) thick and layer them evenly over the top, drizzle with 6 tablespoons (90 ml) of the caramel sauce and cover with the remaining pudding. Cover with plastic wrap pressed to the surface of the pudding. Chill until set, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.
To make the topping, use a handheld or stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment to whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla until it holds firm peaks; the whipped cream should be on the firmer side to make the tart easier to slice. If you take the cream too far and it becomes lumpy, you can rescue it by folding in additional heavy cream until it loosens up again.
Remove the plastic wrap from the tart and spread the cream evenly over the top. Chill the tart for 30 more minutes to set the cream. Place the tart on a cutting board, and use a sharp chef’s knife to slice the tart into wedges, wiping the knife clean between each cut. Drizzle slices generously with more caramel and sprinkle with a pinch or two of flaky salt.
The tart is best on the day of baking, but it will keep, refrigerated airtight, for 2 or 3 days.
CHOCOLATE BERGAMOT TRUFFLE TART WITH OLIVE OIL AND FLAKY SALT
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE}
I don’t like to play favorites, but this tart was a clear winner around our place. My sweetie, who doesn’t have much in the way of a sweet tooth, forbade me from giving any away, and he hoarded the last slice in the fridge for a week before finally polishing it off. I couldn’t really blame him—this tart is pretty one-of-a-kind. A buttery cocoa shortbread crust contrasts the silkiest chocolate truffle filling, and fresh bergamot zest makes the whole thing sing with citrusy floral notes. If you want to gild the lily, top the tart with a drizzle of flavorful olive oil and a few pinches of flaky salt, and serve slender wedges with a billow of softly whipped cream. The complexity of the olive oil plays up the bergamot, the salt adds an addicting crunch and the cream smooths out any rough edges. This tart is all about the chocolate, so use a high-quality brand that you like the taste of on its own. It’s best to buy bars of chocolate and chop them up rather than using chocolate chips, which generally have less flavor and more lecithin to keep them from melting in cookies—not what we want here. If fresh bergamot eludes you, leave it out altogether or try the Earl Grey variation, below.
MAKES ONE 12 BY 4-INCH (30 BY 10-CM) RECTANGULAR TART OR ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND TART, 10–12 SERVINGS
CRUST
1 parbaked 12 by 4-inch (30 by 10-cm) OR 9-inch (23-cm) round Cocoa Almond Tart Crust
FILLING
1¼ cups (295 ml) heavy cream
3 tbsp (45 ml) honey
Finely grated zest from 1 medium bergamot (1 packed tsp)
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
6 oz (170 g) bittersweet chocolate (60–70% cacao mass), roughly chopped (1¼ cups)
1 large egg
FOR FINISHING
¾ cup (180 ml) heavy whipping cream
Really good olive oil
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
For the crust, prepare and parbake the crust as directed. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300°F (150°C).
To make the filling, in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan set over a medium flame, heat the cream with the honey, bergamot zest and salt, swirling occasionally, until hot and steamy. Remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 10 minutes.
Place the chocolate in a medium-sized bowl. When the cream has steeped, heat it again until hot and steamy and pour over the chocolate. Let sit for 1 minute, then whisk gently until very smooth. Whisk in the egg, then strain the mixture through a sieve and into a large measuring pitcher. Pour the filling into the hot crust and carefully transfer to the oven. Bake the tart until the filling quivers gently in the center when you give it a jostle and the edges are just set, 10–20 minutes. Let the tart cool completely, then chill until firm, 1–2 hours and up to 1 day.
To serve, use a large, sharp chef’s knife to cut the tart into slender slices, dipping the knife in hot water and wiping it clean between slices for the cleanest cuts. To finish, whip the cream to soft peaks and serve slices of tart with a dollop of cream, a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of flaky salt. The tart is best on the day of baking when the crust is crisp, but extras keep well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 5 days.
VARIATION: EARL GREY CHOCOLATE TART
Black tea adds its malty flavor here while conveying the floral notes of bergamot.
Omit the bergamot, steeping 2 tablespoons (6 g) top-quality Earl Grey tea leaves with the hot cream and honey for 10–20 minutes, or until the cream turns beige. Strain the cream into the chocolate, pressing on the tea to extract all of the flavor, and proceed with the recipe.
FROMAGE BLANC TARTLETS WITH HONEYED KUMQUATS
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
These sunny tartlets make a bright treat for late winter when other citrus and pomes have petered out and rhubarb and berries haven’t yet emerged. Thick honey-kumquat syrup sweetens a cheesecake-like filling and rounds of kumquat flecked with vanilla bean crown the tops. Fromage blanc, also called farmer cheese, tastes a bit like goat cheese without the funk, and it keeps the filling airy and not-too-rich. That said, mascarpone will work in its place. Packaged in buttery almond-flour crusts, these will make you the star of any dinner party. To ease the day-of
prep, make the kumquats and prepare and freeze the tartlet crusts up to 1 week ahead. Feel free to bake this in a single 9-inch (23-cm) round tart or pie pan, increasing the bake time as needed.
MAKES EIGHT 4-INCH (10-CM) TARTLETS OR ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8–10 SERVINGS
CRUST
Eight 4-inch (10-cm) or one 9-inch (23-cm) Vanilla Almond Tart Crusts, parbaked
FILLING
1 recipe Honey Candied Kumquats
1 cup (8 oz [225 g]) fromage blanc or mascarpone
Finely grated zest from 1 medium lemon (preferably Meyer)
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
2 tbsp (30 ml) candied kumquat syrup
2 tbsp (30 ml) honey
¾ cup (180 ml) heavy cream
For the crust, prepare and parbake the tart crusts as directed. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment for easy cleanup.
For the filling, prepare the Honey Candied Kumquats and chill until ready to use.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C).
In a large bowl, whisk together the fromage blanc, lemon zest, egg and egg yolk. Whisk in the kumquat syrup and honey, then the cream, whisking until smooth. Divide the filling among the tart crusts, filling them to the top and giving them a gentle shake to even out the custard. (Extra custard can be baked in a small ramekin alongside the tarts.)
Bake the tarts until the filling puffs slightly around the edges and is mostly set when you give the pan a shake, 18–25 minutes (30–35 minutes for a large tart). Remove the tarts from the oven and let cool to room temperature. Carefully remove the rings and bottoms, place the tarts on a small baking sheet and chill until cold, 1 hour.
To serve, place the tarts on plates, spoon over some of the chilled, honeyed kumquats and devour immediately.