Alternative Baker

by Alanna Taylor-Tobin

  Pour the batter into the buttered pan. Arrange the pears over the batter and sprinkle with half of the pomegranate arils and half of the pistachios, reserving the rest for garnish, then sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar.

  Bake the clafoutis until puffed and golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, 25–35 minutes. Remove and let cool for at least 20 minutes. Garnish with the remaining pomegranate arils and pistachios and serve warm or at room temperature. Leftovers can be refrigerated airtight for up to several days; reheat prior to serving if you like.

  NOCINO TIRAMISÙ

  {SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}

  In Italy, caffè corretto, espresso fortified with a shot of booze, is a classic hangover cure. My favorite spirit with which to correct my coffee (and occasionally myself) is nocino, a fortified brandy or grappa made by steeping unripe green summer walnuts with spices and sugar. After several months, the tannins in the walnuts turn the spirit a deep chestnut brown, and the spices create a fall-flavored beverage perfect for holiday imbibing. Nocino della Cristina, made in the Napa Valley of California, is a favorite brand, with notes of sweet, bitter and spice melded together into one heavenly digestivo.

  Here, I’ve added nocino to the classic Italian treat tiramisù (literally, “pick me up”) usually made with ladyfingers soaked in boozy coffee and smothered in zabaglione and whipped mascarpone. Chiffon cake stands in for the ladyfingers here, and its richer taste makes it fine to omit the zabaglione for a less fussy, and still very boozy, dessert. The result is a spoonable mouthful of moistened cake, a bit of salty tang from the mascarpone and lots of deep, dark nocino and coffee. This is a snap to put together once the cake is made, which, along with the other components, can be done up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated airtight. Additionally, the whole tiramisù can also be assembled up to 1 day ahead; it just gets better as it sits.

  MAKES 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALLER SERVINGS

  1 Vanilla Chiffon Cake, cooled

  COFFEE SYRUP

  1¼ cups (300 ml) strong-brewed coffee, hot or warm

  ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) nocino liqueur

  2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  WHIPPED MASCARPONE

  8 oz (225 g) mascarpone

  1¼ cups (300 ml) heavy cream

  Seeds from ½ vanilla bean (or ½ tsp vanilla extract)

  ¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  ⅛ tsp fine sea salt

  2- or 3-oz (56- or 85-g) bar semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, for grating

  Prepare the cake as directed and let cool completely.

  To make the coffee syrup, stir together the coffee, nocino and sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

  To make the whipped mascarpone, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a large bowl with a balloon whisk or hand beater), whip together the mascarpone, cream, vanilla seeds, sugar and salt until the mixture holds firm peaks. Cover and chill until needed.

  Cut the cake in half, then cut crosswise into ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick slices. Lay 1 layer of cake slices cut side up in an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) square pan or the equivalent, cutting the pieces as needed to make them fit. Drizzle with half of the coffee syrup; it should be enough to moisten the cake through, but not so much that it pools in the bottom. Spread the soaked cake with half of the whipped mascarpone and grate a good layer of chocolate directly over the cream, about 1 ounce (28 g); a small handheld grater works well. Repeat the layering process once more, ending with the grated chocolate. Serve right away with a spoon if you just can’t wait; otherwise, chill the tiramisù for 1–2 hours until set, or up to 1 day, and cut into slices to serve. Tiramisù keeps well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.

  VARIATION: RUM TIRAMISU

  Omit the nocino. Make the coffee syrup with dark or spiced rum (such as The Kraken) and 3 tablespoons (40 g) sugar. Proceed with the recipe.

  NOTE: Nocino is traditionally made with grappa or brandy and is usually free from trace amounts of gluten. If you or your tiramisù eaters are highly sensitive, check with individual retailers before imbibing. Alternatively, try the rum variation, above.

  PUMPKIN ICE CREAM SANDWICHES WITH MESQUITE GINGER MOLASSES COOKIES

  {SWEET RICE, MESQUITE}

  San Francisco is known for its wonky seasons, as noted by Mark Twain one summer long ago. We get our summer in the fall, when the rest of the country is cozied up in scarves and mittens sipping hot cider and baking pumpkin spice everything. Meanwhile, I can usually be found sweltering in our apartment, drinking icy cocktails and trying to concoct desserts full of warming spices that still manage to refresh. Enter these ice cream sandwiches. The chewy version of the mesquite gingersnaps on makes a spicy vessel for ice cream that tastes like frozen pumpkin pie, delivering a fall flavor fix inside even when it’s still Indian summer out there.

  MAKES ABOUT FOURTEEN 3-INCH (7-CM) SANDWICHES

  PUMPKIN ICE CREAM

  1 cup (235 ml) whole milk

  ¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  4 cinnamon sticks (3 inches [7.5 cm] each), crushed

  1 generous tbsp (8 g) coarsely chopped fresh ginger

  ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

  ⅛ tsp salt

  4 large egg yolks

  1¼ cups (300 ml) heavy cream

  1 cup (235 ml) roasted squash puree (see Note on or unsweetened canned pumpkin puree

  ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) packed organic light brown sugar

  ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

  1 recipe Chewy Double-Ginger Molasses Cookies baked and cooled

  NOTE: Save the egg whites for making Chestnut Plum Financiers or Vanilla Chiffon Cake.

  To make the ice cream, in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the milk with the sugar, crushed cinnamon sticks, ginger, vanilla pod and seeds and salt, swirling occasionally until the mixture begins to steam and small bubbles appear around the sides of the pot. Turn off the heat, cover and let steep for 30 minutes.

  When the milk mixture has steeped, place the egg yolks in a medium bowl and place the bowl on a damp towel to stabilize it. Rewarm the milk mixture to steaming, and drizzle the hot dairy into the egg yolks, whisking constantly. This is called “tempering,” and it prevents the yolks from scrambling.

  Return the custard to the pot, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof silicone spatula, scraping the bottom and sides of the pot, just until the mixture begins to “stick” (forms a thin film) to the bottom of the pot, and/or registers 170°F (77°C) on an instant-read thermometer. Immediately remove the pot from the heat, and whisk in the cream, squash puree, brown sugar and nutmeg.

  Pour the ice cream base through a fine-mesh strainer, working the mixture through with a silicone spatula. Cover the mixture and chill until very cold, at least 4 hours and up to 2 days.

  Process the ice cream in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Scrape the ice cream into a container, cover and freeze until firm enough to scoop, at least 2 hours and up to several weeks.

  To make the sandwiches, let the ice cream soften slightly, 5 minutes or so. Place a small baking sheet in the freezer. Working quickly, place a ¼ cup (60 ml) scoop of ice cream on the flat side of a cookie, and top with a second cookie, flat side down, pressing the cookie to flatten the ice cream slightly. Transfer the sandwich to the pan in the freezer. Continue until you’ve used up all the cookies or all the ice cream. For long-term storage, place the sandwiches in a large storage container or wrap individually. They will keep for up to 1 month. For best results, let soften at room temperature for 5 minutes before devouring.

  BANANA BUTTERSCOTCH PUDDING WITH MESQUITE GINGERSNAPS

  {SWEET RICE, MESQUITE}

  My friend Michelle, who was a rock star recipe tester for this book, turned me on to banana pudding when we baked together one summer at a music camp in Mendocino, California. She made the famous pudding from Magnolia Bak
ery in New York, which, despite being comprised of boxed cookies, instant vanilla pudding mix and sweetened condensed milk, all layered together with bananas and whipped cream and allowed to chill for several hours until melded, tasted like it had descended from heaven. After a few (hundred) mouthfuls, I developed a Pavlovian response to Michelle, dreaming of pudding each time I saw her.

  Here is a marginally healthier version, gussied up with mesquite gingersnaps, homemade butterscotch pudding and a whiff of bourbon. Eat it fresh and the cookies will be crisp, or let it chill for up to 24 hours and the pudding will meld into one deliciously spoonable dessert. The pudding portion is adapted lightly from a Gourmet recipe that’s a snap to make and gets the ratios just right.

  MAKES 6 SERVINGS

  PUDDING

  2 tbsp (28 g) unsalted butter, in several pieces

  2 tbsp plus 2 tsp (18 g) cornstarch

  ¼ tsp fine sea salt

  ½ cup (110 g) packed organic dark brown sugar

  1½ cups (355 ml) whole milk

  ½ cup (120 ml) heavy whipping cream

  ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped (or ½ tsp vanilla extract)

  WHIPPED CREAM

  ¾ cup (175 ml) heavy whipping cream

  2 tsp (8 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  1 tbsp (15 ml) bourbon or GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie)

  ½ tsp vanilla extract

  FOR FINISHING

  2 cups (110 g) Mesquite Gingersnaps crumbled

  3–4 large ripe but firm bananas

  To make the pudding, have the butter measured out and close at hand. Place a strainer over a medium heatproof bowl or large measuring pitcher and set aside.

  In a medium saucepan, whisk together the cornstarch, salt and brown sugar. Add the milk, cream and vanilla bean and scrapings and bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking frequently (you will have to stop whisking to verify that it is boiling; there will be fat bubbles that pop gloopily). While you whisk, be sure to scrape the entire bottom of the pot, including the corners. When you see the gloopy bubbles, reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a simmer and continue cooking and whisking for an additional 1–2 minutes; the pudding should be the texture of a loose yogurt. Turn off the heat and whisk in the butter.

  Scrape the pudding through the strainer and into the bowl. Let cool to room temperature, then cover and chill until cool but still spoonable, 30–60 minutes.

  To make the whipped cream, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a large bowl with a sturdy wire whisk or hand mixer), whip the cream with the sugar until soft peaks form. Beat in the bourbon and vanilla. Cover and chill until needed.

  In six 6- to 8-ounce (175- to 235-ml) glasses, ramekins or jars, crumble in a shallow layer of gingersnaps. Top with a layer of butterscotch pudding. Peel the bananas and cut them into ¼-inch (6-mm) slices. Fan a layer of bananas over the pudding, and top with a layer of whipped cream. Repeat with a second layer of each component, ending with a dollop of whipped cream. Garnish with a crumble of gingersnaps. Serve immediately, or cover the puddings and chill for up to 2 days. The cookies will be crisp at first but will soften up after an hour or two.

  NOTE: If you or your dessert eaters are highly sensitive to gluten, be sure to use a GF whiskey here, such as Queen Jennie. Otherwise, I like Bulleit’s bitey bourbon.

  CITRUS TRIFLE WITH LILLET SABAYON

  {SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}

  Sabayon is a workout. Ten minutes of vigorous whisking is required to produce the frothy custard, a mixture of eggs, sugar and booze cooked over a hot water bath until light and airy. You’ll feel the burn, but hey, no pain no gain, right? Here, the sabayon is chilled and folded together with whipped cream to form layer upon layer of spoonable dessert, which beats the heck out of a recovery shake. Lillet Blanc, a GF wine–based aperitif, has notes of floral honey, ripe apricots and bittersweet citrus. Here, I use it in place of the usual vermouth to make a fluffy sabayon, which captures its beautiful flavors. More Lillet soaks slices of citrus-kissed chiffon cake, and the whole thing gets layered in a glass vessel for a sunny presentation that will gussy up any winter soirée. Spoon trifle into individual dessert glasses or bowls, or construct individual portions in glass mason jars. You’ll likely have a bit of cake left over to enjoy with a cup of tea (or glass of Lillet) while you wait for guests to arrive. You’ll need some of the leftover egg whites from the sabayon for the chiffon cake; save the rest for making financiers. In the summer, try this trifle with berries in place of the citrus.

  MAKES 10–12 SERVINGS

  SABAYON

  8 large egg yolks

  ½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  ⅛ tsp fine sea salt

  ¾ cup (180 ml) Lillet Blanc (or other sweet, white wine–based aperitif)

  1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream

  CITRUS

  1 large Cara Cara or navel orange

  2 medium pink or ruby grapefruits

  2 medium blood oranges

  3 medium tangerines

  CAKE

  One 8-inch (20-cm) round Citrus Chiffon Cake

  ½ cup (120 ml) Lillet Blanc

  Honey, for drizzling

  To make the sabayon, prepare an ice bath by combining ice cubes and cool water in a large bowl. Set aside. In a large, stainless steel or copper bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, salt and ¾ cup (180 ml) Lillet. Place the bowl over a pot of barely simmering water and whisk the dickens out of it constantly for 5–10 minutes. The mixture will froth up, then begin to thicken and eventually form a ribbon when you lift the whisk and let the sabayon drip back into the bowl. As you whisk, be sure to swipe every inch of the bowl’s walls to prevent the eggs from scrambling, and adjust the heat under the pot as needed to maintain a gentle simmer. You may want to hold the bowl with one oven-mitted hand and use the other to whisk. When the sabayon reaches the ribbon stage, quickly remove the bowl from the pot, taking care not to burn yourself on the steam, and place the bowl in the ice bath. Stir occasionally to chill the sabayon.

  Meanwhile, in a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment or in a large bowl with a hand blender, whip the cream until it just holds firm peaks. When the sabayon is chilled, gently fold in the whipped cream until no streaks remain. Cover and chill the sabayon until needed; it will hold for a couple of hours.

  To prepare the citrus, cut the outer ends off of the fruits to reveal the flesh. Squeeze the ends into a pitcher to save any precious juice; you’ll use it to moisten the cake. With a cut side down, use a sharp paring knife to cut away the skin and pith, following the curve of the fruit. Slice the fruit crosswise into ¼-inch (6-mm) thick rounds, removing any seeds. Reserve any juices from the citrus and add it to the pitcher with the juice. You should have ¼–½ cup (60–120 ml).

  To assemble the trifle, cut the cake into ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick slices, and cut each slice into a 2-inch (5-cm) rectangle. Stir together the ½ cup (120 ml) Lillet and reserved citrus juice. In a large glass bowl or other vessel, make a layer of cake pieces, overlapping them slightly. Drizzle with a few tablespoons of the Lillet/juice mixture to moisten the cake slightly. Make a layer of overlapping citrus rounds atop the cake, and top with generous dollops of the sabayon. Repeat the layering process until you’ve filled your vessel, or used up your ingredients, ending with a layer of citrus.

  Cover and chill the trifle until ready to serve, preferably 1–6 hours to meld the flavors. When ready to serve, drizzle a little honey over the top of the citrus to give it a pretty shine, and scoop portions into serving bowls. Leftover trifle keeps well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.

  TRIPLE COCONUT “TRES LECHES” CAKE WITH MANGO AND LIME (DAIRY-FREE)

  {SWEET RICE, COCONUT, MILLET}

  If you find regular cakes overly dry, tres leches is the cake for you. A sponge cake traditionally soaked with a mixture of sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk and heavy cream, the luscious Mexican sweet falls somewhere between cake and custard.
This dairy-free version is made with gently sweetened coconut milk kissed with rum and vanilla bean. With coconut flour in the cake and toasted coconut shreds on top, it’s more of a tres cocos cake (but who’s counting?). Ripe chunks of mango threaded with lime zest provide a bright counterpoint, though I’ve found this equally lovely when topped with fresh raspberries or sliced strawberries tossed with a bit of sugar. A splash of dark rum adds an extra layer of flavor to the milks, but you can leave it off if need be. Be sure to source one that is gluten-free if you or your cake eaters are extra-sensitive.

  MAKES 9 SERVINGS

  1 recipe Coconut Flour Chiffon Cake, warm

  MILK MIXTURE

  3 tbsp (30 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

  2½ cups (590 ml) full-fat, well-shaken canned coconut milk

  Big pinch of fine sea salt

  3 tbsp (45 ml) dark or spiced rum (gluten-free such as The Kraken)

  FOR FINISHING

  1 cup (30 g) unsweetened coconut flakes (chips)

  2 medium mangos, ripe and fragrant but firm (1½ lb [680 g])

  1 lime

  NOTE: To make individual round cakes as pictured, bake the cake in an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) square pan and use a plain biscuit cutter to cut 9 equal rounds out of the cake. Bonus: You’ll have plenty of scraps to nibble on while you wait for the cakes to chill. Alternatively, cut the cake into 9 squares, or bake a round cake and cut it into wedges.

  Prepare the cake in an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) square pan as directed (see Note).