Alternative Baker
Page 20
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with a wooden spoon), beat the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, 2–3 minutes. Add the molasses, then the egg, beating to combine after each. Place a mesh strainer over the bowl and sift in the sweet rice and mesquite flours with the cornstarch, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon and salt. Return to the mixer and beat on low speed until well combined, then give the bowl a final scrape on the bottom and sides with a flexible spatula to make sure the dough is homogenous. (If making Chewy Double-Ginger Molasses Cookies, skip to the directions in the variation, below.)
For gingersnaps, divide the dough in half and place each half on a large piece of plastic wrap. Flatten into disks roughly ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick, and wrap and chill until firm, at least 1–2 hours and up to 3 days.
When ready to bake, position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Line 2–3 cookie sheets with parchment paper. Unwrap 1 portion of dough and place it between 2 pieces of parchment paper dusted lightly with rice flour. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough to ¼-inch (6-mm) thick, dusting with flour as needed to keep the dough from sticking, turning and flipping the dough and parchment paper as you work and dusting off excess flour with a pastry brush. Slide the whole thing onto a baking sheet and chill again until firm, 15–30 minutes. Repeat with the other half of the dough.
Peel away the top piece of parchment, make sure the dough isn’t sticking to the bottom piece and use cookie cutters to cut out shapes as close together as possible, placing the cookies on the prepared cookie sheets spaced 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. If the cookies are soft after cutting, chill them again until firm; this will help them hold their shape. Press dough scraps together and repeat the rolling/chilling/cutting process until you’ve used up all the dough.
Bake the cookies one sheet at a time until fairly set and beginning to color around the edges, 8–12 minutes. They will still be soft and slightly puffed, but will settle down and crisp up when cool. Watch closely, as these go from baked to burnt in no time. If your cookies are still soft after cooling, return them to the oven for a few more minutes to crisp them up. Let cool, then store airtight at room temperature for up to 3 days.
VARIATION: BUCKWHEAT GINGERSNAPS
Omit the mesquite flour, using ½ cup (70 g) buckwheat flour and ¼ cup (25 g) oat flour. Follow directions for either the gingersnaps or the Chewy Double-Ginger Molasses Cookies.
PISTACHIO LIME AND MATCHA SNOWBALLS
{ALMOND, OAT}
I have my sweetie’s mother, Mary, to thank for showing me the way to perfect snowballs. Also known as polvorones or Russian tea cakes, these orbs of nutty dough encased in powdered sugar are some of my favorite cookies both to make and to eat. There’s something meditative about shaping the dough into balls and rolling them—twice—in powdered sugar. As the sugar absorbs moisture from the baked cookies, it transforms into an icing of sorts, giving way to a sandy shortbread full of nuts and gently sweetened.
These snowballs get a verdant update from green pistachios, lime zest and matcha green tea powder, which, along with a generous dose of salt, create layers of flavor. A trio of flours—almond, oat and tapioca—create a neutral backdrop and a melt-in-the-mouth texture that will leave you hungry for more. These cookies store well, making them ideal for holiday gift-giving, but good luck making them last that long …
MAKES ABOUT THIRTY-TWO 1½-INCH (3.8-CM) COOKIES
½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar Zest from 3 large limes (about 4 packed tsp [8 g])
1 cup (125 g) blanched almond flour
½ cup (55 g) oat flour
¼ cup (30 g) tapioca flour/starch
1 tbsp (4 g) culinary-grade matcha, plus extra for sprinkling
½ tsp fine sea salt (not table salt)
1 cup (125 g) raw pistachios, chopped semi-fine into ⅛–¼-inch (3–6-mm) pieces
8 tbsp (113 g) cold, unsalted butter, diced
¾ cup (90 g) powdered sugar
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and add the lime zest. Mix on low speed until the sugar is moistened, 1–2 minutes. Add the almond, oat and tapioca flours, matcha powder, salt and chopped pistachios and mix on low speed to combine, 30 seconds. Scatter the butter pieces over the top and mix on medium-low speed until the butter is completely incorporated and the dough comes together in large clumps, 3–5 minutes.
Sift the powdered sugar into a shallow bowl. Form tablespoon-sized 1-inch (2.5-cm) balls of dough and roll them in the powdered sugar, knocking off any large clumps. Place the balls on the baking sheet, spacing them at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Bake the cookies until puffed, cracked and slightly golden, 15–20 minutes. The cookies will be soft at first but will crisp up when cool.
Let the cookies cool completely on the pan, then roll each one a second time in the powdered sugar. Dust the tops with a bit of matcha pushed through a small strainer. They will keep, airtight at room temperature, for up to 1 week.
TANGERINE VANILLA BEAN MADELEINES
{ALMOND, MILLET, SWEET RICE}
Madeleines intimidated me for many years, and the madeleine pan I impulse-bought once at a cookware store sat neglected at the bottom of the cupboard for years. I may have made one batch in the beginning and, finding them bland and high-maintenance, gave up. Then one day in my food readings, I learned that madeleines can be flavored with brown butter and ground almonds, similar to financiers—which are neither bland nor high-maintenance—and my curiosity was piqued. Using a gluten-free recipe from one of my favorite sites, London Bakes, as a springboard, thus began my Proustian love affair with the elusive cookies.
Unlike my first madeleine trial of yore, these get a kick of flavor from tangerine zest and butter browned with vanilla, and the batter comes together easily with one bowl and a whisk. Madeleines are undeniably adorable to look at and, when coated in a thin glaze kissed with vanilla bean and tangerine juice, they take on the appearance of pretty shells found by the sea. I keep the cookies on the less-sweet side to complement the glaze, but you can also finish them with a light dusting of powdered sugar if you prefer. Unlike most madeleines, these keep well for up to several days, the glaze and almond flour locking in moisture. Do let the batter rest in the fridge for at least an hour to firm up the melted butter, and be sure to use a pastry brush dipped in room-temperature butter to paint the crevices of the madeleine molds. My madeleine pan has 12 molds, so I make these in two rounds. If you lack madeleine molds, give these a try in mini muffin pans for tiny fairy cakelets.
MAKES 18 MADELEINES
MADELEINES
7 tbsp (100 g) unsalted butter, plus 1–2 tbsp (14–28 g) very soft (not melted) unsalted butter, for the pan
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) organic granulated cane sugar
2 tsp (10 g) finely grated tangerine zest (from 3–4 tangerines)
2 large eggs
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ cup (60 g) almond flour
¼ cup plus 3 tbsp (60 g) millet flour
¼ cup plus 1 tbsp (50 g) sweet white rice flour
1 tsp (5 g) baking powder
GLAZE
1 cup (110 g) powdered sugar Seeds from ½ vanilla bean
2–3 tbsp (30–45 ml) strained fresh tangerine juice (as needed to make a runny glaze)
To make the madeleines, in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the 7 tablespoons (100 g) butter with the vanilla pod and scrapings over medium heat, swirling occasionally. After 3–5 minutes, the butter will foam up, then turn golden and smell nutty. Watch it closely at this point so it doesn’t burn. When the butter has browned, remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Remove the vanilla pod and discard.
Place the sugar and tangerine zest in a large bowl and use your fingertips to r
ub the zest into the sugar until moistened; this helps draw out the citrus oils. Whisk in the eggs and salt. Place a strainer over the top of the bowl and add the almond, millet and sweet rice flours and baking powder. Sift in the dry ingredients, adding back any bits left in the strainer. Stir the flour into the egg mixture until well combined, then whisk in the slightly cooled brown butter and any good stuff hanging out on the bottom of the pan. Cover the dough and chill until firm, 1 hour or up to overnight.
When ready to bake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C). Use a pastry brush to coat the molds of a madeleine pan generously with some of the remaining 1–2 tablespoons (14–28 g) softened butter. Fill the molds three-quarters full with the batter; it will be rather firm. I find it easiest to place a scant scoop of batter from a spring-loaded #40 ice cream scoop in the molds and flatten the batter out with my fingers; a small spoon or a piping bag fitted with a large, plain tip are other good options.
Bake the madeleines until they spring back to the touch, 8–12 minutes. Let cool slightly, then carefully loosen from their molds (a small offset spatula can help) and place, pretty side up, on a rack to cool. Wipe the madeleine pan clean and repeat the buttering/battering/baking process to make the rest of the cookies.
To make the glaze, in a small bowl, whisk together the powdered sugar, vanilla seeds and enough tangerine juice to make a glaze that’s the consistency of heavy cream. While the madeleines are still slightly warm, dip the shell-shaped side in the glaze, coating it completely and letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Place glaze side up on the rack and let set until firm, 20 minutes. The madeleines are best the day of baking but will keep, airtight at room temperature, for up to 3 days.
CHESTNUT BROWNIES
{CHESTNUT}
It’s always a win when an alternative flour doesn’t just match its glutinous counterpart but actually bests it. Such is the case with these brownies, which are adapted from a favorite Alice Medrich recipe. Chestnut flour gives the middles a velvety texture that wheat-based brownies only dream of, and it adds its own earthy sweetness, blending seamlessly with copious amounts of butter and chocolate. If you make these, I warn you that you may be hard-pressed to ever use a more mundane flour in brownies again. That said, buckwheat and teff flours both complement chocolate and can likely take the place of the harder to find chestnut flour here. Like the double chocolate cookies whipping the eggs with sugar adds lightness to the batter, making leavening unnecessary. The trick to the pretty tops is to have the chocolate-butter mixture fairly warm when you add it to the eggs. These keep well for up to several days. Turn them into a grown-up ice cream sundae topped with port-roasted strawberries and ice cream.
MAKES 16 SMALL BUT RICH BROWNIES
6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter
8 oz (230 g) bittersweet chocolate (60–70% cacao mass), chopped (about 1½ cups)
½ cup (50 g) chestnut flour
2 tbsp (15 g) tapioca flour
3 large eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan with 2 crisscrossed pieces of parchment paper cut to fit widthwise, leaving an overhang on each side. This will make the brownies easy to remove from the pan.
Place the butter in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan set over the lowest possible heat. Add the chocolate and let melt together, stirring frequently to prevent the chocolate from scorching. Continue cooking until the mixture is pleasantly warm, but not super hot, to the touch. Remove from the heat and keep warm. Sift the chestnut and tapioca flours into a small bowl and set aside (chestnut flour tends to clump, so don’t skip this step).
Meanwhile, place the eggs, sugar and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and whip on medium-high speed until the mixture is very light and fluffy, 5 minutes. Turn the mixer to low and stir in the vanilla until just combined, then the warm chocolate-butter mixture. Add the flour mixture and mix on low until combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a flexible silicone spatula to give the batter a final stir by hand, scraping the bottom of the bowl and making sure all the flour is incorporated.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth into an even layer. Bake the brownies until the top is puffed and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs, 24–30 minutes, taking care not to overbake. Let the brownies cool completely, then use the parchment handles to lift them out of the pan and onto a cutting board. Use a sharp chef’s knife dipped in hot water and wiped clean between each cut to slice the brownies into 16 squares.
The brownies keep well, airtight at room temperature, for up to 3 days, or refrigerated for up to 5 days.
CASHEW LIME BLONDIES
{SWEET RICE, COCONUT}
One of my favorite childhood treats was a soft and chewy drop cookie flavored with plenty of brown sugar and packed with white chocolate and macadamia nuts. I have a distinct memory of nomming them on the way home from day camp one summer, purchased from Gelson’s market in Los Angeles by my dad. Now that my taste buds are a bit more grown up, I like hefty doses of flaky salt and lime to cut the sweet richness of white chocolate, and I make sure to get the good stuff made with cacao butter and plenty of vanilla. Green & Black’s is my preferred brand, which is organic and flecked with vanilla bean. Since macadamias can be difficult to find, I trade them out for toasted cashews. Coconut flour is the magic ingredient that makes these extra dense, moist and chewy, adding a tropical note without the bothersome texture of shredded coconut and setting off the brown sugar cookie bars beautifully. Organic dark brown sugar has the extra moisture and molasses that we want here, but light brown sugar should work in a pinch. I like these best the day after baking, when the flavor of the lime zest becomes more pronounced.
MAKES SIXTEEN 2-INCH (5-CM) BLONDIES
¾ cup (105 g) raw cashews
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter
Finely grated zest from 2 medium limes
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (125 g) packed organic dark brown sugar
1 large egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
¼ cup plus 1 tbsp (45 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup (30 g) coconut flour
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp fine sea salt
4 oz (120 g) good-quality white chocolate (such as Green & Black’s), coarsely chopped (1 scant cup)
¼–½ tsp flaky salt (such as Maldon)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom and sides of an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan with parchment paper.
Spread the cashews on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven until golden, 5–7 minutes. Remove and let cool, then chop coarsely.
Meanwhile, place the butter in a small saucepan and set over low heat to melt. Zest the limes directly into the pot and cook for a few minutes to infuse the butter, swirling the pan occasionally. Place the brown sugar in a large bowl and stir in the melted butter mixture. Let the mixture cool to warm, 5 minutes, then stir in the egg and vanilla until combined. Set a strainer over the bowl and sift in the sweet rice and coconut flours along with the baking powder and sea salt. Stir vigorously until well combined, then stir in the chopped cashews and white chocolate.
Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and use a small offset spatula to spread it evenly. Sprinkle the top with the flaky salt. Bake the blondies until puffed, shiny and slightly cracked on top, and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out with a few large, wet crumbs clinging, 18–22 minutes. Let the blondies cool completely, then remove from the pan, peel away the parchment and use a large, sharp chef’s knife to trim away the outer ¼ inch (6 mm) and cut into 16 bars. Store the blondies, airtight at room temperature, for up to 3 days.
BERRY CHÈVRE CHEESECAKE SQUARES WITH PISTACHI
O SHORTBREAD CRUST
{SWEET RICE, MILLET}
I could pretty much live off of goat cheese at every meal, including and especially dessert! Here, fresh chèvre adds a touch of sophistication to a creamy cheesecake base wrapped around fresh summer berries, all perched atop a crumbly pistachio–millet flour crust. Bring these to a party and watch them disappear—they’re a true crowd-pleaser. These bars come together easily, with both components being made in a food processor, and they are less fussy to bake than a large, round cheesecake, as cracking isn’t an issue. They take about 1½ hours total to assemble and bake, plus an additional 4 hours to cool and chill, so plan accordingly. Most of this time is inactive, and the bars can be made a day or two ahead of time, a boon for dinner parties and potlucks. If you’re not a goat cheese fan like I am, feel free to make this with 1 pound (450 g) of cream cheese. These bars also work well with huckleberries or wild blueberries. For thinner bars, bake these in a 9 by 12–inch (23 by 30–cm) pan, adjusting the bake times as needed.
MAKES 16 LARGE OR 24 SMALLER BARS
CRUST
¾ cup (100 g) shelled raw pistachios, plus extra for decorating
½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (75 g) millet flour
3 tbsp (20 g) tapioca flour
⅓ cup (65 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
8 tbsp (113 g) cold, unsalted butter, cubed