Kibo ( Brimming With Hope ): Recipes and Stories From Japan's Tohoku

by Elizabeth Andoh

  Let the covered mixture stand at a cool room temperature for at least 8 hours to develop flavor and texture, or refrigerate for a minimum of 2 days. The marinated squid and carrots will be ready to enjoy anytime thereafter. The mixture can be stored (covered with the stained paper towel or cheesecloth), refrigerated for up to 10 days; the flavors will intensify considerably with time.

  When you are ready to serve, lift the squid and carrot strips from their marinade. If you will not be using all of the mixture and wish to refrigerate some for the next day, keep the marinade and any towel, cloth, or kombu cover in your container. If you will be serving all, drain the marinade and discard it. Mound the jerky and carrot mixture in small haystack-like portions, or serve izakaya or pub-style in a communal bowl.

  AN AMERICANIZED TASTE OF THE TOHOKU

  Substitute beef jerky for the dried squid to make an American version of this Tohoku classic. Look for jerky products that are made naturally and organically. Other considerations when buying beef jerky include whether the meat has been smoked or just salt-and-sugar cured, and whether or not other spices or seasonings have been introduced. All of these factors will affect the final flavor and texture. Ideally, you will use simply cured, unseasoned, jerky.

  If the jerky you buy has been chemically preserved (typically with sodium nitrate) do not use the blanching liquid in the marinade. If you need additional liquid, add plain water instead.

  A VEGAN TASTE OF THE TOHOKU

  Substitute ½ cup (about 1 ounce) thinly shredded burdock root (gobō), salsify, or parsnip for the dried squid to make a vegan version of this Tohoku classic.

  Chrysanthemum and Enoki Mushroom Salad

  KIKU-BANA TO ÉNOKIDAKÉ NO NIHAI-ZU

  Edible flowers, especially chrysanthemums, are a fine example of how the food of the Tohoku showcases the flora and fauna of the region. Petals, plucked from fresh chrysanthemum flowers (both yellow and purple) are trimmed, then blanched or steamed to keep their vivid color and to make them more digestible. Floated in broths or tossed into rice and salads, the colorful petals enliven many early autumn dishes. Just before the first frost, fresh flowers are gathered, steamed, pressed, and dried into thin, flat sheets, called hoshi-giku. Most of these are circular, some are rectangular. These bright yellow sheets call to mind the nori (laver) you see at the sushi bar. Indeed, in Aomori Prefecture’s Hachinohe, hoshi-giku sheets are wound around thick logs of mackerel-topped sushi to make a local delicacy called saba jin. In most of the Tohoku, however, sheets of hoshi-giku are softened or torn, and the petals are then scattered or mixed with other foods. Such is the case in this salad.

  SERVES 4 TO 6 AS AN APPETIZER

  3 ounces enokidaké (enoki) mushrooms, trimmed

  1 cup Dashi (Basic Sea Stock)

  ½ sheet dried chrysanthemum petals (hoshi-giku) (about ¼ ounce) or about 1½ to 2 ounces edible fresh flowers, such as squash blossoms or nasturtiums

  1½ teaspoons mirin

  1½ teaspoons usukuchi shōyu (light-colored soy sauce)

  2 tablespoons brown rice vinegar (kuro-zu)

  3 or more ounces mizuna salad greens torn into bite-sized pieces or microgreens, or a combination of microgreens and sprouts (optional)

  Put the mushroom pieces in a small pot with the dashi. Slowly bring the liquid to barely a boil. Add the dried chrysanthemums, tearing or shredding the sheet a bit to aid in even distribution. Stir to be sure the flower petals are completely moistened by the warm broth. Season with mirin and light-colored soy sauce and remove the pot from the heat. Set aside until the broth is cool, about 20 minutes. It is in this cooling down period that flavors meld, and the flower petals become tender.

  Add the vinegar to the pot, stir, and let sit for 5 minutes. The dish is ready to serve, though if you prefer, it can be made to this point in advance and refrigerated for several hours. When you are ready to serve, drain, setting aside the liquid. Coax the flower petal and mushroom mixture into individual mounds. If you want to add volume and crunch to the salad, serve over a bed of mizuna lettuce or toss with the microgreens. Drizzle the reserved liquid over the greens just to moisten.

  SQUASH BLOSSOM AND ENOKI MUSHROOM SALAD

  Food stylist Karen Shinto experimented with (great success) using squash blossoms. I share her suggestions with you.

  Select 5 to 7 fresh squash blossoms (1½ to 2 ounces total). Separate the petal from the base (stem end) by tearing along the bottom of the blossom; discard the stamin and pistil. Thinly shred the petals lengthwise into strips about ⅓ to ½ inch wide. Add the shredded petals to the seasoned mushroom and dashi mixture after it is taken from the stove. Stir to mix, and let cool.

  CHRYSANTHEMUMS (KIKU)

  Emblematic of Japan and its culture, chrysanthemums appear in many guises: as the exalted Imperial household crest (a special layered 16-petal design), the “official” stamp of the Japanese government (it appears on passport covers), and as an autumnal motif for textiles (brocade and kimono fabrics) and tabletop accessories (bowls, chopstick rests). Even savory carved vegetables become flower look-alikes.

  Walnut-Miso Stuffed Shiso Leaves

  SHISO MAKI

  The Tohoku region is justly famous for its walnuts—large, meaty orbs that produce an incredibly rich, aromatic paste when roasted and crushed—and its miso—a full-bodied red (burnished brown, really) fermented soybean paste. In this dish, the two local champions combine with toasted sesame to make an addictively tasty filling for shiso leaves. Some Tohoku chefs will add a spicy spark to the sweet-and-salty miso mixture by adding a pinch of fiery shichimi tōgarashi (7-spice blend) to the filling.

  In the summertime when herbaceous, fresh shiso grows in abundance, nuggets of the nutty filling are wound in the herb’s aromatic leaves before being lightly seared in sesame oil. If you are unable to source fresh shiso, try using red-leafed lettuce (trimmed to 2-inch squares) as the wrapper, tossing in whatever minced fresh herbs you might have on hand (mint is refreshing, chives are pleasantly spicy). You don’t have to skillet-sear the rolls—the filling is fully cooked and shiso, other herbs, and lettuce are usually eaten raw—but you may be surprised at how mellow the slightly bitter shiso leaves or other herbs become when heat is applied quickly. These stuffed leaves are terrific with an icy beer, chilled saké, or hot green tea.

  MAKES 30 STUFFED LEAVES, 2 TO 3 PER SERVING

  1 ounce fresh (not roasted) walnut meats (about ¼ cup)

  1 tablespoon whole untoasted white sesame seeds

  ¼ cup Neri Miso (Stirred Miso Sauce)

  ⅛ teaspoon shichimi tōgarashi (7-spice blend) or ground chile powder

  30 whole fresh green shiso leaves

  1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

  Heat a small, heavy (preferably cast-iron) skillet over medium heat. Add the walnut meats and dry-roast them while lightly shaking, jiggling, and swirling the skillet to keep the nuts in motion. When the nuts are aromatic and lightly colored, about 1 minute, transfer the walnuts to a suribachi (Japanese grooved mortar) to grind them coarsely in the old-fashioned way. Or, transfer the dry-roasted nuts to the bowl of a mini-sized food processor and pulse to make a coarse paste.

  In the same skillet you used to dry-roast the walnuts, dry-roast the sesame seeds in a similar fashion over medium-low heat (keep the skillet in motion to prevent the seeds from scorching and popping violently). When aromatic and lightly colored, about 1 minute, add the sesame seeds to the walnut paste and briefly grind (in a suribachi) or pulse (in a food processor) to combine.

  Heat the miso sauce in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring until it begins to appear thinner and glossier, about 1 minute. Add the ground seed-and-nut mixture. Stirring over low heat, cook for 30 seconds or so to combine thoroughly and reduce to a very thick, slightly oily paste (the oiliness is natural and comes from the sesame and walnuts). The final mixture will be quite textured with nuts and seeds. If you like spicy dishes, add the 7-spice blend and stir to combine. Remove from the stove.

  To assemble the r
olls, rinse the shiso leaves under fresh cold water and tear off the stems. Shake the leaves to remove excess moisture before laying them out on a flat work surface, shiny side up with the broad bases closest to you and the tapered tip of the leaf facing away. Place ½ teaspoon of the walnut-miso mixture in the center of each leaf. Resist the temptation to overstuff the rolls: they will be too salty and will tear more easily.

  Roll up each leaf away from you.

  Align two or three rolls parallel to each other and hold them together with a single toothpick. Or take a pair and thread onto skewers inserted parallel to each other.

  Any extra paste can be stored in a tightly capped glass jar in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, though the nutty aroma begins to fade after 2 or 3 days.

  Choose a skillet just large enough to hold the skewered stuffed leaves in a single layer. Lightly oil the skillet with the sesame oil (a swab made from paper towel works well). Arrange the stuffed leaves in the oiled skillet before placing it over medium heat. As the skillet heats, you will hear a sizzling noise and begin to smell the mixture of aromatic herbs and miso. Carefully flip the skewered rolls and allow them to sear briefly on the other side. Remove and blot on paper towels before serving, either warm or cooled down to room temperature. Remove the toothpicks before plating, if you wish.

  Salmon-Stuffed Kelp Rolls

  SHAKÉ NO KOBU MAKI

  Kelp, rolled into neat diploma-like scrolls and tied with edible gourd ribbons, are enjoyed throughout Japan, especially during the New Year holidays. The classic Tohoku version stuffs the rolls with migaki nishin, a cured and dried herring. Difficult to source outside Japan, the traditional version is, unfortunately, beyond the scope of this book. Instead, I share with you another popular version of kobu maki made with readily available fresh salmon. My recipe guides you to making a dozen pieces. Serve them as appetizers—that is how they are enjoyed during the holidays in the Tohoku—with celebratory saké. Or, serve several clustered together as a side dish at dinnertime.

  You will need rubber bands and an otoshi-buta (dropped lid) or cheesecloth to make this recipe.

  MAKES 12 BITE-SIZED PIECES, TO SERVE AS APPETIZERS

  3 yards or more uncut ribbons of kampyō (sun-dried gourd ribbons)

  2 cups water

  ½ teaspoon salt

  6 ounces fresh salmon fillet, skin removed and flesh cut into strips to match the size and number of pieces of your kombu (4 longer strips for the wide kombu or 6 shorter strips for the narrower kombu)

  4 pieces kombu, each measuring 6 to 7 inches wide by 5 inches long, or

  6 pieces kombu, each measuring 2½ to 3 inches wide by 5 inches long (leftovers from stock making are perfect) (see Note)

  1 tablespoon vinegar

  SIMMERING SAUCE

  1½ cups any dashi (stock), plus more as needed (optional)

  2 tablespoons sugar

  1 tablespoon saké

  3 tablespoons regular soy sauce

  Set the kampyō (dried gourd) to soak in 2 cups room temperature water for at least 20 minutes (and up to 12 hours at cool room temperature). Remove the kampyō, reserving the soaking liquid; it becomes stock for cooking the rolls. (Note: If your kampyō has been dried with chemicals such as sulfur dioxide, discard the soaking liquid and use water or other stock instead.) Sprinkle the salt over the kampyō and rub. You will feel the kampyō soften, becoming velvety. Rinse off the salt and squeeze out excess liquid. Set aside the kampyō to use later.

  To assemble the rolls, place one of the shorter strips of salmon fillet horizontally across one of the narrower pieces of kombu. Or, place one of the longer strips of salmon fillet horizontally across one each of the broader pieces of kombu.

  Roll the kombu away from you to encase the strip of salmon. Ideally, the roll will be snug but not so tight that the salmon bulges out the ends.

  As an interim measure to hold the shape, secure both ends with rubber bands placed about ¾ inch from each edge.

  Repeat to form additional rolls. Once you have formed all the rolls, you are ready to replace rubber bands with edible ties made of kampyō.

  Start by placing one end of the kampyō ribbon under the midsection of one roll. Make a double knot and snip off the long ribbon end. Repeat this knot-making procedure until each of the narrow rolls is tied twice, while each of the wider rolls is tied three times. Once you have made the knots, slip the outer ones toward the ends of each roll (if you have three knots, one remains in the middle). Remove the rubber bands.

  If you have any kampyō ribbon left, you can cook it in the same pot as the rolls and nibble on it as a special treat. If you find that you have run out of kampyō, you can secure the rolls with toothpicks, though these will be less attractive. Do not cook the rolls with the rubber bands in place.

  To cook the rolls, choose a skillet or pan just large enough to hold the rolls in a single layer. Place the rolls, knots facing down, in the skillet and fill with water to cover. Add the vinegar. Place the skillet on the stove and bring the liquid to a boil over medium heat. Cook for 5 minutes, skimming away any froth as it appears. Parboiling in acidulated water like this tenderizes the kombu and forces out any aku (unwanted “froth”); it will not add tartness to the final dish. Drain, and if froth clings to the rolls or skillet, rinse them briefly. Return the rolls to the skillet, knots facing down.

  Add the dashi or liquid from soaking the kampyō ribbons, sugar, and saké. Use an otoshi-buta, or lay a double layer of cheesecloth or cooking parchment directly on the rolls to keep them moist as they cook. Place the skillet on the stove over high heat until the liquid comes to a boil. Adjust to maintain a steady, though not especially vigorous, simmer. Cook for 5 minutes, checking on liquid in the skillet. Flip the rolls so that the knots face up. Replace your inner lid and cook for another 5 minutes. If at any time the rolls look in danger of scorching, add a bit of boiling water or stock to keep them barely submerged in liquid as they cook.

  Flip the rolls so that the knots face down again. Add the soy sauce, replace the inner lid, and cook for 3 minutes or until slightly glazed (Be careful not to scorch the rolls). Remove the skillet from the heat, keeping the otoshi-buta (inner lid) in place. Set aside until the broth is cool, about 20 minutes. It is in this cooling down period that flavors meld and the kombu become tender.

  Typically, kobu maki rolls are made ahead and served at room temperature—they will keep refrigerated for 4 or 5 days. Just before serving, cut the rolls between the knots to make a dozen knotted mini kombu rolls. Each of the shorter rolls with two knots is cut in half; each of the longer rolls with three knots is cut into three segments.

  Note: If you are using dry kombu that has not been used to make stock previously, soak the kombu pieces in several cups of room temperature water for 20 minutes, reserving this liquid to use in lieu of stock when making this or other dishes. Refrigerated, the kombu stock (a cold water extract, really) will keep for 3 days.

  VARIATION ON A THEME: KELP-ALONE SCROLLS (MINI KOBU MAKI)

  If you find you have small pieces of kelp left after making stock, you can fashion them into bite-sized scrolls by rolling up the pieces snugly without encasing salmon in the process. Indeed, this could be a good way to accommodate vegetarians or vegans at your dinner table. Cook and season as you would the fish-filled rolls in the main recipe.

  Foxy Rolls

  KITSUNÉ MAKI

  The Japanese have consumed kombu (kelp) for thousands of years—enjoying the slightly briny, umami-rich sea vegetable in various ways, among them in a New Year holiday dish called Kobu Maki. A recent, and most unfortunate, ban on the sale of kombu in Australia and New Zealand, has necessitated a creative substitute. Forthwith, my no-kombu, kobu maki recipe … an oxymoron if ever there was one!

  I call my sly invention Kitsuné Maki, or Foxy Rolls. In Japanese legends, foxes are portrayed as being especially fond of abura agé, fried tōfu, the major ingredient in these rolls, and the foxes are known for their tricky ways. Although the punning plea
sure of true kobu maki is gone (kobu is an endearing nickname for kombu, and sounds like yorokobu, the word for happiness), this ersatz version is my attempt to compensate readers until regulatory agencies come to their senses and lift the ban.

  MAKES 12 BITE-SIZED PIECES, TO SERVE AS APPETIZERS

  3 yards or more uncut kampyō ribbons (sun-dried gourd ribbons)

  1½ cups water

  ½ teaspoon salt

  3 slices fried tōfu sheets (abura agé)

  1 small carrot (about 1½ ounces), scraped or peeled and cut in 3-inch strips

  2 tablespoons sugar

  1 tablespoon saké

  3 tablespoons regular soy sauce

  Set the kampyō (dried gourd) to soak in the room temperature water for at least 20 minutes (and up to 12 hours at cool room temperature). Remove the kampyō, reserving the soaking liquid; it becomes stock for cooking the rolls. (Note: If your kampyō has been dried with chemicals such as sulfur dioxide, discard the soaking liquid and use water or and other dashi, instead.) Sprinkle the salt over the kampyō and rub. You will feel the kampyō soften, becoming velvety. Rinse off the salt and squeeze out any excess liquid. Set aside.

  Briefly blanch the fried tōfu sheets in boiling water; 30 seconds should suffice to remove excess oil. Drain and let cool until you can comfortably handle it. Cut in half across the narrow middle to make six pieces, each about 3 inches square.