Kibo ( Brimming With Hope ): Recipes and Stories From Japan's Tohoku

by Elizabeth Andoh

  The Japanese seed oyster business clustered along the shores of Matsushima Bay and in and around the port of Kesennuma in Miyagi Prefecture had been dependent upon natural settings rather than element-protected hatcheries. The entire industry was all but wiped out in the triple disaster.

  Anyone who has done business with Japan or lived in Japanese society knows the custom of okaeshi, returning a gift or favor. The practice can, on occasion, become onerous, with costs creeping up with every exchange as burdensome obligations escalate. But the summer of 2011 saw a very different attitude toward okaeshi: It became a wonderful opportunity to repay kindness and concern. The outpouring of assistance from former domestic rivals (Hiroshima and Kumamoto) and international competitors in (North America and Europe) was impressive and heartwarming.

  In the 1970s (and again in the 1990s) when disease outbreaks wrecked French oyster farms, the Japanese growers provided larvae to help jump-start the French industry. The French returned the favor in the summer of 2011, naming their generous Japan disaster relief and assistance package of oyster-farming equipment and seed, France O-kaeshi. Most befitting … and deeply appreciated.

  Interesting trivia: Pacific oysters are protandrous hermaphrodites. That means they mature as males and then change to females later in life. Stranger still, some revert back to being male, especially when food supplies become scarce (when they are overcrowded, for example). Spawning is triggered by a rise in water temperature; temperatures above 65°F (18°C) (which in the Northern hemisphere is usually during July and August) initiates the process.

  PREPPING SHUCKED OYSTERS FOR HOT POT COOKERY

  If you have purchased shucked oysters in a glass jar, carefully strain the liquid (a flavorful essence) and add it to the pot. Shucked oysters can have bits of shell and grit clinging to them, so examine carefully. If need be, briefly swish the plump meats in salted water (1 teaspoon salt for 2 cups water), gently rubbing with your fingers to clean the surface. Rinse the meats in fresh water and drain immediately on paper towels (you don’t want the shucked meats to absorb the rinse water). Place the cleaned oysters on your platter, ready to add to the casserole.

  Rice Flours

  Japanese confectionary makes use of several kinds of rice flours. Mochi ko (sometimes called shiratama ko), looks like crushed chalk and is made from mochi-gomé (sticky rice); jōshin ko resembles a silky powder and is made from uruchi mai (ordinary table rice). In addition, dango ko, a fine powder, is a mixture that combines these two (50 percent each mochi ko and jōshin ko).

  Store as you would any flour in a dry canister on a dark shelf at room temperature.

  Saké

  In most recipes that call for saké, it is used in two ways: to deglaze the skillet in which other foods are sautéed and/or to balance sugar and soy sauce in a slow-simmered dish. If you will be purchasing saké for such cooking purposes, check the label to be sure that sugar has not been added since it will produce unwanted scorching and adversely affect the balance of seasonings. Alcohol is often listed as an additive, but this relates to the grading of saké and is not a problem when cooking. To understand the grading system of saké and learn more about the beverage, read The Language of Saké by my colleague, Yukari Sakamoto.

  Saké should be stored as you would any bottle of wine.

  Scallops (Hotaté)

  In Japan, scallops are sold in several forms: whole in shells, fresh meats, and dried. Having an affinity for cold water, nearly all are cultivated in the Tohoku (Iwate, Miyagi, also Aomori) and in Hokkaido. Check with your local market for information on scallops sold near you.

  If you purchase scallops whole and will be shucking them yourself, note that the “meat” of the scallop is the adductor muscle (kaibashira, in Japanese). It is white and circular. The black area above it is the digestive gland (uro), and should not be eaten.

  Although the recipe for Miso-Seared Scallops calls for cooking the scallops, they will be “rare.” You should use sashimi-quality scallops, what in Japan is called nama shoku yō (to be consumed raw).

  Shichimi Tōgarashi (7-Spice Blend)

  All Asian groceries will sell various bottles, pouches, and tins of preblended, mildly hot spices called shichimi tōgarashi. Some products will have just shichimi on the label; others, on occasion, will be labeled nanami instead. The Japanese language has two words for the number 7: shichi and nana. Mi, by the way, means “flavor” or “taste.” Store as you would any other spice or dried herb: in a tightly sealed container placed on a dark, dry, cool shelf. Although there is some variation among brands, most 7-spice blends consist of these ingredients:

  1. togarashi (red chili)

  2. aonori (green sea herb)

  3. chinpi (dried citrus peel)

  4. sanshō (aromatic pepper)

  5. keshi no mi (poppy seed)

  6. asa no mi (rapeseed)

  7. kuro goma (black sesame) and shiro goma (white sesame)

  Shiso Leaves

  The green shiso leaf is also called ooba, literally “large leaf.” Sold in may Asian grocery stores outside Japan, usually in packages of ten leaves, it is an easy-to-grow herb from seed that does well in a pot on a sunny window ledge. Harvest when leaves are about 1½ inches long. Store leaves, stacked flat against each other, wrapped in a moist paper towel in a plastic bag. Refrigerated they will keep for 4 or 5 days.

  Soy Sauce

  Soy sauce is used extensively in Japanese cooking as a seasoning. Throughout the Tohoku region, recipes calling for soy sauce presume it will be koikuchi shōyu, a deep amber-colored, salty-but-mellow liquid that boasts a pleasantly fermented aroma. In most English-language texts, this is referred to as “regular” soy sauce and I follow suit in Kibō. On occasion, however, light-colored (but rather salty) usukuchi shōyu is preferred. This is especially true when regular soy sauce might “stain” the appearance of the final dish. Although soy sauce does not spoil easily, its aroma does fade quickly after opening. I recommend you refrigerate bottles after they have been opened.

  Sugar and Sugar Substitutes

  Ordinary white granulated sugar, available in markets everywhere, is what is called for in the recipes in Kibō. The kind of sugar that is for sale in Japan, however, is moist and when scooped out with a measuring spoon the sugar will retain the shape of the spoon. Japanese sugar readily dissolves at room temperature when stirred into liquids and does not need to be heated (melted) to remove a gritty texture.

  If you wish to limit or avoid white (refined) sugar, you can substitute raw or brown sugar instead. I would recommend reducing overall amounts slightly, though, because brown sugar tends to clump and become more concentrated. If you are making syrup from the sugar, you can substitute, by volume, mizu amé (barley malt) or brown rice syrup for the white sugar.

  Surumé Ika (Squid Jerky)

  Squid jerky is available in Asian groceries stores everywhere, but it will be a challenge to find unseasoned products. Most have been doctored with chemicals and some (Korean and Vietnamese products especially) have been spiced. If you are making Squid Jerky and Carrot Strips, you need to start with a product that is free of chemicals or flavoring. Either whole flat squid or already shredded squid can be used. If you do not use the entire package, place any remainders in a resealable bag, pressing out excess air as you close it. Store in the refrigerator. When you are ready to shred and use, cut the dried squid across the grain to avoid unattractive curling.

  Tōfu

  Tōfu is made by first soaking, then crushing and boiling dried soybeans. The snowy liquid—tōnyu or soy milk—that results is then solidified into pudding-like loaves with the aid of nigari (calcium chloride, extracted from sea water). These are sometimes referred to as “bean curd” cakes or blocks in English, though the Japanese word tōfu has become commonplace in recent years. Depending upon such variables as coagulating agent, lining and type of shaping containers, time, and pressure, a number of rather different-looking soy products result. Recipes in this book call for the followi
ng kinds of tōfu: firm tōfu, soft or silken tōfu, fried tōfu sheets, and grilled tōfu. The size of a loaf or block of tōfu (in the case of firm, soft, or grilled tōfu) varies widely from mini 3-ounce packets to jumbo 14-ounce packages.

  All types of tōfu are highly perishable and should be kept refrigerated. Open and use by the sell-by date. If a product (such as fried tōfu) has been previously frozen and defrosts in transit to your home kitchen, do not refreeze. If you will not be using the entire block of tōfu after opening the package, submerge any unused portion in fresh cold water and refrigerate. Use within 2 days of opening. Cloudy water or a thin sticky film on the surface indicates spoilage; so does an off odor. Freezing firm or silken tōfu will change its texture; it becomes spongy—an unsuitable texture for the dishes included in Kibō.

  Firm tōfu. Most products labeled “firm tōfu” will be what the Japanese call momen-dōfu. A dense loaf with a somewhat coarse texture, this type absorbs flavors well and stands up to extended cooking. Firm tōfu is the most suitable type when making miso soup or adding to hot pots (see Oysters-on-the-Bank Hot Pot and Celebration Hot Pot). Firm tōfu is occasionally used in making sauces.

  Soft tōfu. Soft tōfu, also called silken tōfu, is what in Japan is called kinugoshi-dōfu. It is a delicate tōfu with a glass-smooth surface and the texture of flan. Because it tends to fall apart and does not mingle well with the broth and other ingredients in hot pots, it is typically eaten on its own, with condiments and a drizzle of soy sauce. Soft or silken tōfu is also used in making sauces.

  Fried tōfu. Abura agé (fried tōfu sheets) are made from loaves of momen-dōfu that are drained, weighted to press out excess liquid, and then cut into thin slices that are deep-fried. A pocket of air forms in the frying process. These pockets can be stuffed with a variety of other ingredients, such as thinly sliced vegetables, sushi rice, ground meat, or poached eggs. Slices of abura agé are also cut in slivers and sautéed with vegetables, and/or floated in soup. Note: Some Asian groceries sell frozen abura agé (usually imported from Japan) in addition to fresh (usually made by a local tōfu vendor). Frozen abura agé is less desirable than fresh because frozen sheets can become spongy, chewy in a not especially desirable manner.

  Grilled tōfu. Yaki-dōfu (literally “grilled bean curd”) is made by draining, compressing, and then grilling momen-dōfu. The resulting loaf displays obvious grill markings on both top and bottom surfaces. The grilling enhances the bean-like flavor and adds visual and textural interest. You can make your own yaki-dōfu with firm tōfu: Drain well, brush with a drop of mirin, and place on a net and grill over a fire or broil under the broiler or a toaster oven. This type of tōfu is best in hot pots or slathered with neri miso and placed under the broiler to grill again until bubbly.

  Wakamé

  Wakamé (Undaria pinnatifida) is a brown algae; its familiar jade-green color is the result of brief blanching after the fronds are harvested and rinsed. Salting and sun-drying dehydrates the wakamé, concentrating minerals and flavor while extending shelf life. Packages of dried wakamé are readily available in Asian groceries throughout the world. Sometimes wakamé will be referred to as “sea tangle.” Store at room temperature; once opened, press out air (most products come in a self-sealing bag) and store on a dark, dry shelf. Wakamé keeps almost indefinitely, though for maximum aroma and nutritional value, its best to consume within 2 months of opening the package.

  SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

  Ichō-Giri Style Cutting

  This style of cutting is used on long, cylindrical vegetables, such as daikon radishes, carrots, eggplants, and cucumbers. The vegetables are cut in quarters, lengthwise, and then across into ½-inch-thick slices. This produces many triangular segments rounded on the outer rim. These slices resemble the shape of a ginko leaf, hence their name ichō-giri, or “ginko-leaf cut.”

  Sasagaki-Style Cutting

  The name means “young bamboo leaf cut” and describes the appearance of foods whittled into slender, tapered shavings. To accomplish this, hold your knife, cutting edge facing away from you, and scrape as though whittling a pencil. Rotate the vegetable as you whittle. To make fine shreds, score the vegetable with long, vertical strokes before whittling.

  Sogi-Giri–Style Cutting

  The broad, even slices made by sogi-giri cutting ensures even cooking time and looks neater than random slicing. To accomplish this, place the item to be sliced, such as filleted fish or a softened dried shiitaké mushroom, on your cutting board. With the fingers of one hand extended, palm down, press gently against the food. With the other hand holding the knife at a 45-degree angle, insert the blade just under your fingertips. Pull the blade through the fish with sweeping strokes toward you, working from left to right (reverse if left-handed) as you repeat to make many thin slices.

  SPECIAL TOOLS

  Otoshi-buta

  An ancient piece of equipment in Japanese kitchens (depicted in twelfth-century scrolls), dropped wooden lids called otoshi-buta (see photo) sit directly on food, not on the rim of the pot in which the food simmers. As a result, bubbling liquid recirculates as it hits the underside of the lid making cooking more efficient in a shorter time. The inner dropped lids also keep food moist as it cooks, even in limited liquid. Most otoshi-buta lids are made of wood (usually a type of cedar). They come in various sizes; choose one that is slightly smaller in diameter than the pan or pot with which it will be used.

  If you are having trouble sourcing an otoshi-buta, place a double layer of cheesecloth or cooking parchment directly on the food you are cooking. If it needs heft to keep the food from bobbing up, top the cloth or paper with a regular lid that is smaller than your pot is wide.

  Sudaré

  The sudaré is a slatted bamboo mat used to roll and shape food. It is sometimes called a maki su. Because it is used in rolling sushi, it is widely available in stores that sell Asian food and related products. A deeply ridged version called an oni sudaré, or monster mat, will be more difficult to source—even in Japan it is a specialty item. Monster mats are used to form Daté maki, the sweet egg roll served at New Year’s time and to make a textured variation of tsuto tōfu (see photo).

  Takénokawa (Dried Bamboo Leaves)

  Dried bamboo leaves are used to wrap food, either already cooked food such as onigiri or about-to-be-cooked food, such as tsuto tōfu. Before using, wipe the inner surface (the smooth side without speckles) with a clean, damp sponge or cloth.

  ABOUT SAKÉ

  The events of March 11, 2011, devastated most of the Tohoku’s food industry. Severe damage, serious injury, and loss of life from the quake and tsunami coupled with ongoing concern for contamination to the food chain from the nuclear accident have created monumental challenges for surviving businesses. The saké industry is among those most challenged. I want to support their recovery efforts by providing my global readership with a miniguide to Tohoku saké. Japanese saké that is available for sale today has undergone scrunity at many levels: the rice and water used in production have been checked for possible radiation contamination by Japanese government agencies, and the breweries independently and vigorously monitor their own products. Should a problem arise at a future date (no one is able to predict far ahead, which is why it’s so difficult for these businesses to reestablish themselves), it will, inevitably, attract media attention and readers will know what products to avoid.

  I approached Japanese-American chef, sommelier, shōchū (distilled spirits) adviser Yukari Sakamoto to craft a short explanation of nomenclature for those who may be unfamiliar with the way in which saké is categorized. I further asked her for guidance in pairing Tohoku saké with some of the dishes featured in Kibō to entice you to toast to recovery with Tohoku saké. As the author of Food Sake Tokyo (The Little Bookroom), a guide to Japanese food, beverages, and restaurants, Yukari is the perfect steward for this part of the Tohoku journey. Kampai (cheers!)

  THE LANGUAGE OF SAKÉ, A MINIGUIDE

  by Yukari Sakamoto, Kibō Saké Adv
isor

  Saké nomenclature, always displayed on bottle labels, will help you understand the character of various different types of saké. There are six major classifications used to describe the beverage. The names reflect two factors: the degree to which the rice has been milled (the more milled, the more refined the resulting beverage), and whether or not brewer’s alcohol has been added in the fermentation process.

  When you see the word junmai, literally “pure rice,” on a label it means that only rice, water, yeast and kōji (Aspergillus oryzae) were used to produce the beverage. Rice used to make junmai is milled down to 70 percent.

  Junmai ginjō is saké brewed from rice that has been milled down to 60 percent.

  Junmai daiginjō is saké brewed from rice that has been milled down to 50 percent.

  Honjōzo is saké brewed from rice that has been milled down to 70 percent and brewer’s alcohol was introduced in the fermentation process.

  Ginjō is saké brewed from rice that has been milled down to 60 percent and brewer’s alcohol was introduced in the fermentation process.

  Daiginjō is saké brewed from rice that has been milled down to 50 percent and brewer’s alcohol was introduced in the fermentation process.

  Here are some other words and information you may find on saké labels: