Lonely Planet Tokyo

by Lonely Planet

  A thicket of bamboo marks the entrance to the traditional-meets-modern Kuma Kengō building that houses the excellent 9Nezu Museum.

  Prada Aoyama Building | ANDRES GARCIA MARTIN / GETTY IMAGES ©

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Little Nap Coffee StandCAFE

  (リトルナップコーヒースタンド MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.littlenap.jp; 5-65-4 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; bChiyoda line to Yoyogi-kōen, exit 3)

  Few people enter Yoyogi-kōen from the entrance near the subway stop of the same name, except those who live nearby. Odds are, on their way, they've stopped by Little Nap for a well-crafted latte (¥400). On Sundays, there's always a crowd loitering out front.

  OathBAR

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://bar-oath.com; 4-5-9 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h9pm-5am Mon-Thu, to 8am Fri & Sat, 5-11pm Sun; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B1)

  A tiny space along a somewhat forlorn strip of highway, Oath is a favourite after-hours destination for clubbers – helped no doubt by the ¥500 drinks and lack of cover charge. Underground DJs spin here sometimes, too.

  Two RoomsBAR

  (トゥールームス MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3498-0002; www.tworooms.jp; 5th fl, AO bldg, 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11.30am-2am Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B2)

  Expect a crowd dressed like they don’t care that wine by the glass starts at ¥1600. You can eat here too, but the real scene is at night by the bar. Call ahead (staff speak English) on Friday or Saturday night to reserve a table on the terrace, which has sweeping views towards the Shinjuku skyline.

  MontoakCAFE

  (モントーク MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6-1-9 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-3am; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

  This stylish, tinted-glass cube is a calm, dimly lit retreat from the busy streets. It’s perfect for holing up with a pot of tea or carafe of wine and watching the crowds go by. Or, if the weather is nice, score a seat on the terrace. Drinks from ¥700.

  Harajuku TaproomPUB

  (原宿タップルーム MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://bairdbeer.com/en/taproom; 2nd fl, 1-20-13 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat & Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit)

  Baird’s Brewery is one of Japan’s most successful and consistently good craft breweries. This is one of its two Tokyo outposts, where you can sample more than a dozen of its beers on tap; try the top-selling Rising Sun Pale Ale (pints ¥1000). Japanese pub-style food is served as well.

  A to Z CafeCAFE

  (エートゥーゼットカフェ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5th fl, 5-8-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11.30am-11.30pm; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B3)

  Artist Yoshitomo Nara (known for his portraits of punkish tots) teamed up with design firm Graf to create this spacious and only slightly off-kilter cafe. Along with wooden schoolhouse chairs, whitewashed walls and a small cottage, you can find a few scattered examples of Nara’s work. Drinks from ¥600.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  MEIJI-JINGū GAIEN BEER GARDENS

  Summer beer gardens are a Tokyo tradition (typically running late May to early September). Two of the city's best are within Meiji-jingū Gaien (the 'Outer Garden' of Meiji-jingū). Mori-no Beer Garden (森のビアガーデン MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rkfs.co.jp/brand/beer_garden_detail.html; 1-7-5 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h5-10pm Mon-Fri, 3-10pm Sat & Sun; dJR Sōbu line to Shinanomachi) hosts up to 1000 revellers for all-you-can-eat-and-drink spreads of beer and barbecue under a century-old tree.

  At the more patrician Sekirei (鶺鴒 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3746-7723; www.meijikinenkan.gr.jp/restaurant/company/sekirei; Meiji Kinenkan, 2-2-23 Moto-Akasaka, Minato-ku; cover charge ¥500; h5-10.30pm; dJR Sōbu line to Shinanomachi), you can quaff beer on the neatly clipped lawn of the stately Meiji Kinenkan (a hall used for weddings); traditional Japanese dance is performed nightly around 8pm.

  3Entertainment

  Jingū Baseball StadiumBASEBALL

  (神宮球場; Jingū Kyūjo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0180-993-589; www.jingu-stadium.com; 3-1 Kasumigaoka-machi, Shinjuku-ku; tickets ¥1600-4600; bGinza line to Gaienmae, exit 3)

  Jingū Baseball Stadium, built in 1926, is home to the Yakult Swallows, Tokyo’s number-two team (but number-one when it comes to fan loyalty). Night games start at 6pm; weekend games start around 2pm. Pick up tickets from the booth next to Gate 9, which is open 11am to 5pm (or until 20 minutes after the game starts).

  Same-day outfield tickets cost just ¥1600 to ¥1900 (¥500 for children) and are usually available – unless the Swallows are playing crosstown rivals, the Yomiuri Giants.

  National Nō TheatreTHEATRE

  (国立能楽堂; Kokuritsu Nō-gakudō GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3230-3000; www.ntj.jac.go.jp/english; 4-18-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; adult ¥2600-4900, student ¥1900-2200; dJR Sōbu line to Sendagaya)

  The traditional music, poetry and dances that nō is famous for unfold here on an elegant cypress stage. Each seat has a small screen displaying an English translation of the dialogue. Shows take place only a few times a month and can sell out fast; purchase tickets one month in advance through the Japan Arts Council website.

  The theatre is 400m from Sendagaya Station; from the exit, walk right along the main road and turn left at the traffic light.

  CrocodileLIVE MUSIC, COMEDY

  (クロコダイル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.crocodile-live.jp; basement fl, 6-18-8 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h6pm-1am; bChiyoda line to Meiji-jingūmae, exit 1)

  Decked out in neon, mirrors and chrome, Crocodile is a classic dive. Live music of all sorts plays here nightly, but the most popular event is the English comedy night put on by Tokyo Comedy Store on the last Friday of the month (admission ¥1500, plus drink order). Advanced bookings are recommended; see www.tokyocomedy.com/improvazilla_main_stage_show.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  URA-HARA

  The recent arrival of fast-fashion megachains (such as H&M) hasn’t pushed Harajuku fashion off the map; it’s just pushed it further into the backstreets. Ura-Hara (literally ‘behind Harajuku’) is the nickname for the maze of backstreets behind Omote-sandō. Here you’ll find the tiny, eccentric shops and secondhand stores from which Harajuku hipsters cobble together their head-turning looks. Whether your aim is acquisitive or more of the anthropological sort, it’s worth spending some time exploring these streets. Some places to start include club-kid favourite Dog and cutesy pioneer 6% Doki Doki.

  7Shopping

  oDogFASHION, VINTAGE

  (ドッグ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dog-hjk.com/index.html; basement fl, 3-23-3 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit)

  Club kids and stylists love the showpiece items at legendary Ura-Hara boutique Dog. The store itself, which is decorated to look like a derelict carnival funhouse, is much of the appeal: it looks like an art installation.

  It's a tiny place, though, and it has taken to charging admission for tour groups, but ordinary browsers are welcome. Look for graffiti over the entrance and head down the stairs.

  oSou-SouFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  (そうそう MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3407-7877; http://sousounetshop.jp; 5-3-10 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-8pm; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)

  Kyoto brand Sou-Sou gives traditional Japanese clothing items – such as split-toed tabi socks and haori (coats with kimono-like sleeves) – a contemporary spin. It is best known for producing the steel-toed, rubber-soled tabi shoes worn by Japanese construction workers in fun, playful designs, but it also carries bags, tees and super-adorable children's clothing.

  oMusubiARTS & CRAFTS

  (むす美 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://kyoto-musubi.com; 2-31-8 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-7pm Thu-Tue; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit)

  Furoshiki are versatile squares of cloth that can be folded and knotted to make shopping bags and gift wrap. This shop sells pretty ones in both traditional and contemporary patterns. There is usually an English-speaking clerk who can show you how to tie them,
or pick up one of the English-language books sold here.

  oLaforetFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  (ラフォーレ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.laforet.ne.jp; 1-11-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

  Laforet has been a beacon of cutting-edge Harajuku style for decades and lots of quirky, cult favourite brands still cut their teeth here (you'll find some examples at the ground-floor boutique, Wall). A range of looks are represented here from ame-kaji (American casual) to gothic (in the basement).

  Arts & ScienceFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://arts-science.com/; 101, 103, 105 & 109 Palace Aoyama, 6-1-6 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; hnoon-8pm; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)

  Strung along the 1st floor of a mid-century apartment (across from the Nezu Museum) is a collection of small boutiques from celebrity stylist Sonya Park. Park's signature style is a vintage-inspired minimalism in luxurious, natural fabrics. Homewares, too.

  Comme des GarçonsFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  (コム・デ・ギャルソン MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.comme-des-garcons.com; 5-2-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-8pm; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A5)

  Designer Kawakubo Rei threw a wrench in the fashion machine in the early '80s with her dark, asymmetrical designs. That her work doesn’t appear as shocking today as it once did speaks volumes for her far-reaching success. This eccentric, vaguely disorienting architectural creation is her brand’s flagship store.

  Gallery KawanoCLOTHING

  (ギャラリー川野 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gallery-kawano.com; 4-4-9 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-6pm; dGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A2)

  Gallery Kawano has a good selection of vintage kimonos in decent shape, priced reasonably (about ¥5000 to ¥15,000). The knowledgeable staff will help you try them on and pick out a matching obi (sash); they're less excited about helping customers who try things on but don't intend to buy.

  BedrockFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  (ベッドロック MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4-12-10 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-9pm, to 8pm Sun; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A2)

  Walking into Bedrock is like stepping into Keith Richards' boudoir, or the costume closet for Pirates of the Caribbean – all leather, feathers and lace. Enter through a secret staircase in the back of the Forbidden Fruit juice bar.

  6% Doki DokiFASHION & ACCESSORIES

  (ロクパーセントドキドキ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dokidoki6.com; 2nd fl, 4-28-16 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

  Tucked away on an Ura-Hara backstreet, this bubblegum-pink store sells acid-bright accessories that are part raver, part schoolgirl and, according to the shop's name, 'six percent exciting'. We wonder what more excitement would look like! Anyway, it's 100% Harajuku.

  KiddyLandTOYS

  (キデイランド MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kiddyland.co.jp/en/index.html; 6-1-9 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

  This multistorey toy emporium is packed to the rafters with character goods, including all your Studio Ghibli, Sanrio and Disney faves. It’s not just for kids either; you’ll spot plenty of adults on a nostalgia trip down the Hello Kitty aisle.

  Chicago Thrift StoreVINTAGE

  (シカゴ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6-31-21 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h10am-8pm; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

  Chicago is crammed with all sorts of vintage clothing, but best of all is the extensive collection of used kimonos and yukata, priced very low, in the back.

  2Sports & Activities

  Ohara School of IkebanaIKEBANA

  (小原流いけばな MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5774-5097; www.ohararyu.or.jp; 5-7-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; per class ¥4000; bGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit B1)

  Every Thursday, from 10.30am to 12.30pm, this well-regarded, modern ikebana school teaches introductory flower-arrangement classes in English. Sign up via email by 3pm the Tuesday before.

  Shimizu-yuSENTO

  (清水湯 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3401-4404; http://shimizuyu.jp/; 3-12-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; with/without sauna ¥1000/460; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 11pm Sat & Sun; dGinza line to Omote-sandō, exit A4)

  Not all sentō (public bathhouses) are historical relics: Shimizu-yu has ultramodern tubs of glistening white tile, jet baths and a sauna. It's just as likely to be filled with young shoppers – perhaps transitioning to a night out – as local grandmas. You can rent a towel (¥300) and purchase soap and shampoo (¥310) at the counter.

  West Tokyo

  Sights

  Eating

  Drinking & Nightlife

  Entertainment

  Shopping

  West Tokyo

  Neighbourhood Top Five

  1Ghibli Museum Delighting in the creativity of Japan's legendary animator, Miyazaki Hayao, and savouring the magic and wonder of his films in a museum he designed.

  2Inokashira-kōen Ambling through the woodsy grounds of a beloved park, past buskers and performance artists, and paying your respects to the sea goddess enshrined here.

  3Nakano Broadway Wandering the halls of this vintage 1960s shopping mall, a collectors' paradise and favourite of otaku (fans of anime and manga).

  4Kita-Kore Building Getting a glimpse of Tokyo's raw, unpolished side at Kōenji's colourful (counter) cultural centre.

  5Reversible Destiny Lofts Experiencing the topsy-turvy tactile world of one of Tokyo's more eccentric contemporary buildings.

  Explore West Tokyo

  West Tokyo here is defined by the largely residential neighbourhoods along the Chūō line, Tokyo's central rail line, west of Shinjuku. Over the decades, each node on the line has developed its own local culture and atmosphere: Nakano is a draw for otaku (fans of anime and manga); Kōenji attracts punks and social activists; many who work in the anime industry live in Asagaya; students love Kichijōji. These are generalisations, of course, but spending an hour or two (or more!) in each gives you a picture of the many possible lives of Tokyoites.

  The area's top sight is the enchanting Ghibli Museum, in far-west Mitaka. We recommend booking your visit at 10am or 2pm so that your visit can coincide with a leisurely detour through Inokashira-kōen and lunch in Kichijōji. Spend the rest of the afternoon wandering around Nakano, with its stubbornly mid-20th-century shopping arcades and collectors' shops, or Kōenji, with its colourful (and sometimes a little crumbly) counter-culture spaces. Most of the neighbourhoods here have nomiyagai, strips crammed with tiny bars and restaurants that come alive in the evenings – proof that these suburbs are anything but sleepy.

  Local Life

  AHang-outs On weekends Inokashira-kōen fills with performance artists and craft vendors, drawing families and students.

  AMusic Kōenji is the locus of Tokyo's punk scene and has several underground music venues.

  ALiving Kichijōji, with its park, department stores and commuting convenience, is routinely voted one of the best places to live in Tokyo.

  Getting There & Away

  ATrain The JR Sōbu (local) and Chūō (rapid) lines run on the same lines west from Shinjuku to Nakano, Kōenji (local trains only on weekdays), Ogikubo, Kichijōji and Mitaka. Beware of the 'special' rapid and 'Ome liner' trains, which go nonstop from Shinjuku to Mitaka. The Keiō Inokashira line runs from Shibuya to Kichijōji, stopping at Inokashira-kōen-mae (for the park).

  ASubway The Tōzai line continues west from Takadanobaba to Nakano. The Marunouchi line runs from Shinjuku to Ogikubo, south of (but parallel to) the Sōbu-Chūō line.

  Lonely Planet's Top Tip

  Two of the highlights here, the Ghibli Museum and the Reversible Destiny Lofts, require advanced reservations. We recommend booking Ghibli tickets as early as possible (up to three months in advance) with a travel agent in your home country – otherwise you may find yourself out of luck. If there are no tours of the Reversible Destiny Lofts taking place during your visit, you can always stay there.

  Best
Places to Eat

  A Tensuke

  A Okajōki

  A Harukiya

  Best Places to Drink

  A Cocktail Shobō

  A Nantoka Bar

  A Uni Stand

  Best Places to Shop

  A Mandarake

  A PukuPuku

  A Sokkyō

  TOP SIGHT

  Studio Ghibli

  MAODOLLTEE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  From 1986 until his retirement in 2014, master animator Miyazaki Hayao and his Studio Ghibli (pronounced 'jiburi') were responsible for some of the best-loved films in Japan – and the world. Miyazaki designed this museum himself, and it's redolent of the dreamy, vaguely steampunk atmosphere that makes his animations so enchanting.

  The building itself looks like an illustration from a European fairy tale. Inside there is an imagined workshop filled with the kinds of books and artworks that inspired the creator, as well as vintage machines from animation's history. It rewards curiosity and exploration; peer through a small window, for example, and you'll see little soot sprites (as seen in Spirited Away; 2001). A spiral staircase leads to a purposefully overgrown rooftop terrace with a 5m tall statue of the Robot Soldier from Laputa (Castle in the Sky; 1986).