Lonely Planet Tokyo
Page 23
Something is almost always in bloom at Rikugi-en, though the garden is most famous for its maple leaves, which turn bright red usually around late November or early December. During this time, the park stays open until 9pm and the trees are illuminated after sunset.
In early spring you can catch plum blossoms, followed by the flowering of the magnificent weeping cherry tree near the entrance.
Don't Miss
ATeahouses
ATogetsukyō
AView from Fujishiro-tōge
AMaples in late autumn
Practicalities
A六義園
A GOOGLE MAP
A%03-3941-2222
Ahttp://teien.tokyo-park.or.jp/en/rikugien
A6-16-3 Hon-Komagome, Bunkyō-ku
Aadult/child ¥300/free
Ah9am-5pm
AdJR Yamanote line to Komagome, south exit
1Sights
Tokyo National Museum Top Sight
MAP GOOGLE MAP
Rikugi-en Top Sight
GOOGLE MAP
1Ueno
Ueno-kōenPARK
(上野公園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://ueno-bunka.jp; Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen & Shinobazu exits)
Best known for its profusion of cherry trees that burst into blossom in spring (making this one of Tokyo's top hanami – blossom-viewing – spots), sprawling Ueno-kōen is also the location of the city's highest concentration of museums. At the southern tip is the large scenic pond, Shinobazu-ike (不忍池 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; bJR lines to Ueno, Shinobazu exit), choked with lotus flowers.
Ueno ZooZOO
(上野動物園; Ueno Dōbutsu-en MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3828-5171; www.tokyo-zoo.net; 9-83 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥600/free; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit)
Japan’s oldest zoo, established in 1882, is home to animals from around the globe, but the biggest attractions are two giant pandas that arrived from China in 2011 – Rī Rī and Shin Shin. There's also a whole area devoted to lemurs, which makes sense given Tokyoites' love of all things cute.
Ueno Tōshō-gūSHINTO SHRINE
(上野東照宮 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3822-3455; www.uenotoshogu.com; 9-88 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; ¥500; h9am-5.30pm Mar-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Feb; dJR lines to Ueno, Shinobazu exit)
This shrine inside Ueno-kōen was built in honour of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the warlord who unified Japan. Resplendent in gold leaf and ornate details, it dates from 1651 (though it has had recent touch-ups). You can get a pretty good look from outside the gate, if you want to skip the admission fee.
In January and February there is a spectacular peony garden; from mid-September to 30 October the same garden blooms with dahlias. Entry to either is an additional ¥500.
Kiyōmizu Kannon-dōBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(清水観音堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3821-4749; 1-29 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; h9am-4pm; dJR lines to Ueno, Shinobazu exit)
Ueno-kōen's Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō is one of Tokyo's oldest structures: established in 1631 and in its present position since 1698, it has survived every disaster that has come its way. It's a miniature of the famous Kiyomizu-dera in Kyoto and is a pilgrimage site for women hoping to conceive as it enshrines Kosodate Kannon, the protector of childbearing and child-raising.
Kuroda Memorial HallGALLERY
(黒田記念室 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5777-8600; www.tobunken.go.jp/kuroda/index_e.html; 13-9 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit)F
Kuroda Seiki (1866–1924) is considered the father of modern Western-style painting in Japan. In this 1928-vintage hall, an annexe to Tokyo National Museum, some of his works are displayed, including key pieces such as Maiko Girl and Wisdom, Impression and Sentiment, a striking triptych of three nude women on canvases coated with ground gold.
National Museum of Nature & ScienceMUSEUM
(国立科学博物館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5777-8600; www.kahaku.go.jp/english; 7-20 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥600/free; h9am-5pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 8pm Fri; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit)
The Japan Gallery here showcases the rich and varied wildlife of the Japanese archipelago, from the bears of Hokkaidō to the giant beetles of Okinawa. Elsewhere in the museum: a rocket launcher, a giant squid, an Edo-era mummy, and a digital seismograph that charts earthquakes in real time. There’s English signage throughout, plus an English-language audio guide (¥300).
National Museum of Western ArtMUSEUM
(国立西洋美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5777-8600; www.nmwa.go.jp; 7-7 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/student ¥430/130, 2nd & 4th Sat free; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 8pm Fri; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit)
The permanent collection here runs from medieval Madonna-and-child images to 20th-century abstract expressionism, but is strongest in French impressionism, including a whole gallery of Monet. The main building, completed in 1959, was designed by Le Corbusier, and is Unesco World Heritage listed. Ask at the information desk for the Discover Architecture map (in English), which notes key aspects of the building.
Shitamachi MuseumMUSEUM
(下町風俗資料館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3823-7451; www.taitocity.net/taito/shitamachi; 2-1 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥300/100; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; dJR lines to Ueno, Shinobazu exit)
This small museum recreates life in the plebeian quarters of Tokyo during the Meiji and Taishō periods (1868–1926), before the city was twice destroyed by the Great Kantō Earthquake and WWII. There are old tenement houses and shops that you can enter.
Kyū Iwasaki-teienHISTORIC BUILDING
(旧岩崎邸庭園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3823-8340; http://teien.tokyo-park.or.jp/en/kyu-iwasaki/index.html; 1-3-45 Ike-no-hata, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥400/free; h9am-5pm; bChiyoda line to Yushima, exit 1)
This grand residence combines a Western-style mansion designed by Josiah Conder in 1896, a Japanese house built by Ōkawa Kijuro at the same time, and gardens. It was once the villa of Hisaya Iwasaki, son of the founder of Mitsubishi, and is a fascinating example of how the cultural elite of the early Meiji period tried to straddle east and west.
Yushima TenjinSHINTO SHRINE
(湯島天神; Yushima Tenmangu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3836-0753; www.yushimatenjin.or.jp; 3-30-1 Yushima, Bunkyō-ku; h6am-8pm; bChiyoda line to Yushima, exit 1)
In the 14th century, the spirit of a renowned scholar was enshrined here, leading to the shrine's current popularity: it receives countless students who come to pray for academic success, especially during school-entrance-exam season. It's an attractive shrine that's famous for its display of ume (plum) blossoms in February and March.
1Yanesen
oNezu-jinjaSHINTO SHRINE
(根津神社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3822-0753; www.nedujinja.or.jp; 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyō-ku; h24hr; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)
Not only is this one of Japan's oldest shrines, it is also easily the most beautiful in a district packed with attractive religious buildings. The opulently decorated structure, which dates from the early 18th century, is one of the city's miraculous survivors and is offset by a long corridor of small red torii (gates) that makes for great photos.
Yanaka GinzaAREA
(谷中銀座 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dJR Yamanote line to Nippori, north exit)
Yanaka Ginza is pure, vintage mid-20th-century Tokyo, a pedestrian street lined with butcher shops, vegetable vendors and the like. Most Tokyo neighbourhoods once had stretches like these (until supermarkets took over). It's popular with Tokyoites from all over the city, who come to soak up the nostalgic atmosphere, plus the locals who shop here.
Yanaka-reienCEMETERY
(谷中霊園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7-5-24 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; dJR Yamanote line to Nippori, west exit)
One of Tokyo’s largest graveyards, Yanaka-reien is the final resting place of more than 7000 souls, many of whom were quite well known in their day. It’s also where you’ll find the tomb of Yoshinobu Tokugawa (徳川慶喜
の墓), the last shogun. Come spring it is also one of Tokyo's main cherry-blossom-viewing spots.
oAsakura Museum of Sculpture, TaitōMUSEUM
(朝倉彫塑館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.taitocity.net/taito/asakura; 7-16-10 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; adult/student ¥500/250; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Nippori, north exit)
Sculptor Asakura Fumio (artist name Chōso; 1883–1964) designed this atmospheric house himself. It combined his original Japanese home and garden with a large studio that incorporated vaulted ceilings, a 'sunrise room' and a rooftop garden with wonderful neighbourhood views. It's now a reverential museum with many of the artist's signature realist works, mostly of people and cats, on display.
SCAI the BathhouseGALLERY
(スカイザバスハウス MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3821-1144; www.scaithebathhouse.com; 6-1-23 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; hnoon-6pm Tue-Sat; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)F
This 200-year-old bathhouse has for several decades been an avant-garde gallery space, showcasing Japanese and international artists in its austere vaulted space.
Shitamachi Museum AnnexHISTORIC BUILDING
(下町風俗資料館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2-10-6 Ueno-sakuragi, Taitō-ku; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)F
This century-old liquor shop (which operated until 1986) has been returned to its original state, but as a museum of bygone Tokyo, with old sake barrels, weights, measures and posters.
2Neighbourhood Walk
An Afternoon in Yanaka
Start Tokyo National Museum
End Sendagi Station
Length 3km; two hours
If you have time, visit the 1Tokyo National Museum before you start exploring Yanaka, with its temples, galleries and old wooden buildings. If not, simply follow the road northwest out of 2Ueno-kōen until you hit Kototoi-dōri. At the corner is the 3Shitamachi Museum Annex, actually a preserved, century-old liquor store. Across the street is 4Kayaba Coffee, if you need a pick-me-up.
From here, it’s a short walk to 5SCAI the Bathhouse, a classic old public bathhouse turned contemporary art gallery. It’s a worthwhile detour to continue down to 6Edokoro, the studio of painter Allan West, and to see the ancient, thick-trunked 7Himalayan cedar tree on the corner. In and around here, you’ll pass many temples, including 8Enju-ji, where Nichika-sama, the 'god of strong legs' is enshrined; it's popular with runners. Feel free to stop in any of the temples; just be respectful and keep your voice low.
Now double back towards the entrance of 9Yanaka-reien, one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric and prestigious cemeteries (also a favourite sunning spot of the neighborhood’s many stray cats). When you exit the cemetery, continue with the train tracks on your right, climbing until you reach the bridge, which overlooks the tracks (a favourite destination for trainspotters).
Head left and look for the sign pointing towards the aAsakura Museum of Sculpture, Taitō, the home studio of an early-20th-century sculptor and now an attractive museum. Back on the main drag, continue down the bYūyake Dandan – literally the ‘Sunset Stairs’ – to the classic mid-20th-century shopping street cYanaka Ginza. Pick up some snacks from the vendors here, then hunker down on a milk crate on the side of the road with the locals and wash it all down with a beer. Walk west and you can pick up the subway at Sendagi Station.
5Eating
5Ueno
oShinsukeIZAKAYA¥¥
(シンスケ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3832-0469; 3-31-5 Yushima, Bunkyō-ku; h5-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat; bChiyoda line to Yushima, exit 3)
In business since 1925, Shinsuke has honed the concept of an ideal izakaya to perfection: long cedar counter, 'master' in happi (traditional short coat) and hachimaki (traditional headband), and smooth-as-silk dai-ginjo (premium-grade sake). The food – contemporary updates of classics – is fantastic. Don't miss the kitsune raclette – deep-fried tofu stuffed with raclette cheese.
Also, unlike other storied izakaya that can be intimidating to foreigners, the staff here are friendly and go out of their way to explain the menu in English.
oInnsyouteiJAPANESE¥
(韻松亭 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3821-8126; www.innsyoutei.jp; 4-59 Ueno-kōen, Taitō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1680/5500; hrestaurant 11am-3pm & 5-9.30pm, tearoom 11am-5pm; dJR lines to Ueno, Ueno-kōen exit)
In a gorgeous wooden building dating back to 1875, Innsyoutei (pronounced 'inshotei' and meaning 'rhyme of the pine cottage') has long been a favourite spot for fancy kaiseki-style meals while visiting Ueno-kōen. Without a booking (essential for dinner) you'll have a long wait but it's worth it. Lunchtime bentō (boxed meals) offer beautifully presented morsels and are great value.
There's an attached rustic teahouse serving matcha (powdered green tea) and traditional desserts from ¥600.
Sasa-no-YukiTOFU¥¥
(笹乃雪 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3873-1145; 2-15-10 Negishi, Taitō-ku; dishes ¥400-700, lunch/dinner course from ¥2200/5000; h11.30am-8.30pm Tue-Sun; v; dJR Yamanote line to Uguisudani, north exit)S
Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in the Edo period, and continues to serve its signature dishes with tofu made fresh every morning using water from the shop’s own well. Some treats to expect: ankake-dofu (tofu in a thick, sweet sauce) and goma-dofu (sesame tofu). The best seats overlook a tiny garden with a koi (carp) pond.
Vegetarians should not assume everything is purely vegie – ask before ordering. There is bamboo out front.
KingyozakaJAPANESE¥¥
(金魚坂 GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3815-7088; www.kingyozaka.com; 5-3-15 Hongo, Bunkyō-ku; set lunch from ¥1400, dinner mains from ¥1800; h11.30am-9.30pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun; bŌedo line to Hongō-sanchōme, exit 3)
They've been selling ornamental fish from this spot for some 350 years, so it's only fitting that the attached restaurant and cafe take a goldfish theme (kingyo means goldfish). It's a charming place in a timber-framed building. The star dish is a Japanese-style beef curry with a thick sauce and sizeable chunks of meat. It also serves tea and cakes and kaiseki-style meals.
5Yanesen
oKamachikuUDON¥
(釜竹 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5815-4675; http://kamachiku.com/top_en; 2-14-18 Nezu, Bunkyō-ku; noodles from ¥850, small dishes ¥350-850; h11.30am-2pm Tue-Sun, 5.30-9pm Tue-Sat; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)
Udon (thick wheat noodles) made fresh daily is the speciality at this popular restaurant, in a beautifully restored brick warehouse from 1910 with a view onto a garden. In addition to noodles, the menu includes lots of izakaya-style small dishes (such as grilled fish and vegies). Expect to queue on weekends.
HagisoJAPANESE¥
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5832-9808; http://hanare.hagiso.jp; 3-10-25 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; mains ¥815-1300; h8-10.30am & noon-9pm; bChiyoda line to Sendagi, exit 2)
This attractive new cafe and gallery, run by students from Tokyo University of the Arts (Geidai), is a good all-rounder for meals, drinks and sweets in the heart of Yanaka. Its Japanese-style breakfast is a great deal at ¥325, while lunch set menus may include a hearty vegetable curry or Japanese-style hamburger steak. Expect to wait on weekends as it's popular.
NagomiYAKITORI¥
(和味 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3821-5972; 3-11-11 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; skewers from ¥180; h5pm-midnight; dJR Yamanote line to Nippori, north exit)
On Yanaka Ginza, Nagomi deals in juicy skewers of ji-dori (free-range chicken). There are plenty of grilled vegie options, too. Wash it all down with a bowl of chicken-soup ramen. Look for the sake bottles in the window.
Nezu no TaiyakiSWEETS¥
(根津のたいやき MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-23-9-104 Nezu, Bunkyō-ku; taiyaki ¥170; h10.30am until sold out, closed irregularly; v; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)
This street stall, beloved of locals for half a century, sells just one thing: taiyaki – hot, sweet, bean-jam buns shaped like tai (sea bream), a fish considered to be lucky. Come early before they sell out (always by 2pm, and sometimes by noon).
oHanteiJAPANESE¥¥
(はん亭 MAP GO
OGLE MAP ; %03-3828-1440; http://hantei.co.jp; 2-12-15 Nezu, Bunkyō-ku; meals from ¥3000; hnoon-3pm & 5-10pm Tue-Sun; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 2)
Housed in a beautifully maintained, century-old traditional wooden building, Hantei is a local landmark. Delectable skewers of seasonal kushiage (fried meat, fish and vegetables) are served with small, refreshing side dishes. Lunch includes eight or 12 sticks and dinner starts with six, after which you’ll continue to receive additional rounds (¥210 per skewer) until you say stop.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oYanaka Beer HallCRAFT BEER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5834-2381; www.facebook.com/yanakabeerhall; 2-15-6 Ueno-sakuragi, Taitō-ku; hnoon-8.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-8.30pm Sat & Sun; W; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)
Exploring Yanesen can be thirsty work so thank heavens for this craft-beer bar, a cosy place with some outdoor seating. It's part of a charming complex of old wooden buildings that also house a bakery-cafe, bistro and events space. It has several brews on tap, including a Yanaka lager that's only available here.
TorindōTEAHOUSE
(桃林堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-5-7 Ueno-Sakuragi, Taitō-ku; tea ¥450; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; bChiyoda line to Nezu, exit 1)