Shadow Country

by Peter Matthiessen

  Eventually the folded packet of lined yellow paper, damp from the salt air and humid climate, had gone so transparent at the creases from sweat and coffee spills and cooking grease and fish oil, so specked by rust, so flecked with bread crumbs and tobacco, that his neat small script all but disappeared and the list had to be replaced. The painstaking writing-out of a fresh copy was no chore; on the contrary, he welcomed it as a ceremony of renewal and a source of inspiration. As vital research for the suspended biography that might redeem his father’s name, the creation of the list somehow justified his return to the Islands; at the very least, it helped compensate for a wasted decade of inaction. So long as it continued to evolve, he saw no reason to give it up; so long as critical details were missing, so long as minor corrections might be made, it would never be finished. Not until much later would he face the fact that he had dreaded finishing the list because he questioned his ability to act on it, although he had known almost from the start that this was so. Any capacity he might have had for taking human life had ended in those days of mud and carnage on the Western Front.

  And so, once again, he was overtaken by the dread that he had failed his father in some way, that he had betrayed the hickory breed of old-time Carolina Watsons who, according to Papa, would have risen in the very teeth of Christian morality and consequences to avenge their Celtic blood. His own vague alternative was confrontation—a succinct damnation (as he imagined it) uttered while staring deep into the eyes of each listed man, a stare long enough and cold enough to dispel the smallest doubt that Watson’s son knew the precise degree of his involvement. Each man would have to deal with the enigma of what this son might do in retribution; each man’s suspense and fear would be his punishment.

  Though Lucius kept his list concealed, the time would come when he was shunned on Chokoloskee Bay. Toward the end of his first year in the Islands, rough warnings changed to threats. One twilight up in Lost Man’s River he heard the echo of a rifle shot that followed a bullet’s hornet whine across his bow. A stupid joke? Harassment? Something else? Glimpsing a skiff ’s worn blue paint through the mangrove branches on the point, he had suspected Crockett Daniels, known as Speck, a poacher and moonshiner who as a youth had been present in the dusk at Chokoloskee and was already a suspect on his list.

  Lucius received word of Walter Langford’s death too late to reach Fort Myers for the funeral. When he turned up next day at his sister’s house, Carrie assured him she had understood his absence but it was plain she could not quite forgive him. “Nobody seriously expected you,” Eddie said sourly. With customary spite, he informed his younger brother that the president of the First National Bank had died of drink and liver failure, having neglected to provide properly for their sister.

  Nell Dyer was present. They greeted and chatted painfully, hurried apart.

  While Lucius was absent in Fort Myers, the Warrior was rammed and sunk at Everglade, where she had been tied up at the fish dock. Though shaken, he would not retreat, dreading the lurking danger less than what he saw as a crippled life of cowardice or weakness. The Storter trading post had been enlarged as a new lodge for sportsmen, and Hoad had moved to Naples; it was the Hardens—the last friends he could trust—who finally prevailed on him to leave the Islands; he headed south around Cape Sable to fish out of Flamingo until things cooled down.

  Returning to Lost Man’s some months later, Lucius learned that in his absence, a stranger had come looking for him in a rented skiff, having rowed south twenty miles from Everglade. “Feller with straight black hair and a thin beard, spoke short and crusty,” Owen said. “Knew what he was doin in a boat and seemed to know this coast. Got too much sun and his hands was raw, all blistered up, but he was tough, never complained. I said, ‘You off a ship someplace?’ and he said, ‘No, I rowed from Everglade.’ I reckon that was far enough for a man whose hands ain’t callused up from pullin oars. ‘What can we do for ye?’ I said. From the start, we thought he looked some way familiar.

  “This feller told us his name was John Tucker. Claimed to be Wally Tucker’s nephew, said he wanted to pay respects where his kinfolks was buried. I took him over to the Key, showed him where we buried ’em that day in 1901. He went all pale and sweaty, could not hide it. When he asked the whereabouts of Lucius Watson, we guessed he had a feud to settle, so I told him that the last we heard, Lucius Watson had left for parts unknown. That stranger give me a hard eye, very dissatisfied and cross. He said, ‘That’s what they told me in Chokoloskee, too.’ And I said, ‘Well, for once they told some truth.’ ”

  “From his questions we figured he knew more than he should about the Tuckers, considering there weren’t no witnesses that could have told him,” Sarah said. “Finally it come to us why he looked familiar, beard or no beard. ‘John Tucker’ weren’t nobody else but E. J. Watson’s oldest, that wild Rob that run off to Key West, taking his schooner.”

  Owen said, “He never believed our story that you went away. He seemed convinced that Island people, maybe us, might of killed his brother, hid the body in the mangroves. That’s why he left here angry and dissatisfied.”

  “I wrapped his blisters in greasy rags before he rowed away, headed back north,” Sarah told Lucius. “Didn’t hardly say thanks.”

  While in Flamingo, Lucius had decided to rid himself of his incriminating list. He cursed the hours had he wasted revising and refining it, down to the smallest detail, in his hunger to get closer to some “truth” that might free him from the past. Far from easing the old pain in his heart, its existence had become a burden and reproach, reminding him of the great folly of years wasted in self-exile—years that might have been spent in the company of Nell, raising pretty children, finishing his education and his books.

  Though he knew the thing by heart and was sick of looking at it, he could not bring himself to burn so many years of work in a few moments—work that might eventually be used in the biography. To eliminate the risk of loss or discovery, he sent the list to Nell Dyer for safekeeping; in the same packet he included a note for Rob in the hope that his brother might turn up again. But in the course of changing households, Nell would misplace the packet, as she confessed in the same letter that brought word of her impending marriage to the senior Mr. Summerlin. So stunned was Lucius by her abandonment that he scarcely reacted to the news of the lost list.

  At Lost Man’s, he resumed a hard sparse life as a commercial fisherman, and over time, the Island men got used to him, as talk died down and the list that nobody had ever seen reverted to vague rumor. Without hope of Nell, however, he had lost heart for Island life, yet had no other. Only an idiot would have assumed, he mourned, that despite his years of folly and neglect, his first love would wait in limbo while he solved his life so that they could travel on together into a golden future, having never aged.

  OWEN AND SARAH

  Despite his sorrow over the loss of Nell, Lucius was plagued in this time of loneliness—plagued disgracefully, in his opinion—by a desperate attraction to Owen Harden’s wife. Sarah loved her husband, he felt sure: she was mainly upset because Owen had been eking out poor fishing seasons by working part-time with Crockett Daniels, who had now acquired a local reputation as “the last of the plume hunters”; Speck Daniels shot egrets wherever he could find the scarce and scattered birds and smuggled the plumes to foreign markets by way of Cuba.

  Because Lucius had prevailed on Owen to give up plume hunting, Sarah made him her confidante in her campaign to return her husband to a lawful life. Almost daily, she sought his counsel, wandering barefoot down the beach to his bachelor’s shack with fresh fish or spare greens and once a week a small basket of his laundry. She also provided endless anecdotal information on the Island families, all the more useful now that he had resumed bad-weather work on his two books.

  By her own account, Sarah had married Owen in rebellion against the prejudice in her own family, in particular those kinsmen on Chokoloskee Bay who made life disagreeable for the Hardens. Sarah’s out
spoken disdain of redneck ignorance—“They ain’t just redneck, they are no-neck!”—had stirred a lot of old-time meanness back to the surface, until finally his own family chided Owen for not bridling his wife’s sharp tongue. This had led to quarrels with her husband, confessed Sarah, unrepentant, even gleeful.

  Though Sarah made no secret of her admiration for Owen’s educated friend—and certainly no effort to hide her visits—the fact that she turned up mostly in the daytime when her husband was off somewhere in his boat made Lucius uncomfortable: Lucius, not Sarah, was the guilty one because he, not she, hid an impure heart that leapt every time he saw her coming, this slim small-breasted girlish woman, in her thirties now, flaxen hair bound up in braids with deerhide thongs, small brown feet skipping light as fishes in the tide shine at the water’s edge.

  Sarah Harden was inquisitive and indiscreet, thin-skinned, scrappy, blunt, yet easily hurt or angered. Her unhappiness about Owen’s associates led her to nag her quiet husband, comparing his prospects as an “outlaw” with those of his educated neighbor down the beach. Owen’s resentment had already seeded vague suspicions and having foreseen this, Lucius tried hard to avoid those moments when through door or window of their cabin he’d glimpse Sarah naked or half-dressed—a crisis that was ever pending, since the unself-conscious Sarah wore little in the humid heat except soft faded overalls gone slack in the front or light cotton smocks with nothing underneath, at least so far as he was able to determine from his unwilling and unstinting study of her curves and shadows. In Sarah’s mind, she had no neighbors, therefore no peepers, only the harmless bachelor a hundred yards away, who in fact had longed to peep on her from the first day she had leaned into his window to ask how his work was going and he saw nestled between the loose blue straps of her overalls those untethered and confiding small brown breasts as warm as fresh-laid eggs.

  One day coming and going they collided clumsily in his doorway, and his hand, bearing a paper, brushed an erect nipple. Like a demon’s wand, the touch unleashed them; they embraced and kissed with a common moan of joy and consternation. Sarah gasped, “Oh my God!” and fled. Without thought, he rushed after her, calling her name not once but twice before seeing Owen, who was just docking his boat. Lucius halted abruptly and abruptly waved; Owen paused a moment, staring after the disappearing Sarah before waving back.

  Called Owen, “She forget her drawers? Or ain’t she wearin any?”

  He was joking, of course. Owen enjoyed wryly outrageous jokes. But also he was not joking, and Lucius’s laugh, to his own ears, rang hollow and deceitful. It was time to leave Lost Man’s Beach. His disloyalty to Owen was no longer to be borne and his Island life was no longer enough and he missed his studies and library research. Excited by fresh ideas about how to shape the unfinished history and the roughed-out biography, he had lawman started a new set of notes.

  CAXAMBAS

  Months before, his common-law kinfolk of the Daniels-Jenkins clan had offered him the use of a small shack built on the deck of an old cane barge run aground at high water in a tidal creek under the high dunes of Marco Island. Rising behind the prehistoric site known to the old-time Indians as Caxambas, “Place of Wells,” these elevations overlooked the white ribbons of surf where the Gulf Coast curved back toward the southeast at Cape Romaine. The great dunes seemed to him a monument, mysterious and moving, to those seagoing Calusa fatally dispersed by the conquistadores. The Spaniards, too, had come and gone away, and the smugglers and pirates and runaway African slaves, and finally the ancestral farmer-fishermen, the pioneers—precisely the atmosphere he wanted for his work.

  Like Everglade, eight miles to the southeast through winding island channels, the small settlement on Caxambas Creek was isolated at the far end of a rough track only suitable for large-wheeled oxcarts and all but unnavigable in most seasons by the tin-can autos honking south like geese in the great Florida Land Boom of the Twenties. Acquiring most of Marco Is-land, developers had moved or destroyed the small cabins at Caxambas and burned down the clam cannery while they were at it, leaving the concrete floor to crack in the hot sun, sprouting hard weeds. Even the old store had been boarded up, the better to speed the last inhabitants on their way. The master plan—to level the dunes and clear the scrubby sabal palm and gumbo-limbo to make way for hotels, winter homes, and artificial lawns—would be shelved for decades by the Great Depression, already on the wind.

  Lucius struggled to support himself as a fishing and hunting guide for sportsmen lodged in a new resort at Marco, working on his manuscripts in stormy weather. The following year, dead broke and in debt, he sold his boat and accepted an assistant teacher’s post in the history department at the university. There he resumed his graduate studies and completed his doctoral thesis, A History of Southwest Florida and the Everglades Frontier. To his surprise, it was very well received and the university press selected it for publication. For the time being, he kept secret his greater ambition to complete and publish The Undiscovered Country, his objective biography of the pioneer sugarcane planter E. J. Watson.

  Between terms at the university, Lucius returned to his barge shack at Caxambas. His friend Hoad Storter, who now lived not far away at Naples and had turned up in Caxambas on a visit, had been delighted by his friend’s decision to leave Lost Man’s and return to his unfinished books, including the Watson biography, which Hoad thought would fulfill his responsibilities to his father and set his heart at rest in a way that darned old posse list could never do. Hoad also thought that E. J. Watson was destined to become famous. Some ten years earlier, he’d been seining mullet with his brother-in-law in the little bays inside the mouth of Chatham River. One day, short of water, they went upriver to the Bend. “The cane fields were all overgrown, looked rough and shaggy, but new sprouts were volunteering through the tangle. We grubbed ’em out, stacked ’em on deck, ran ’em north to the Calusa Hatchee and on up east to Lake Okeechobee at Moore Haven, the only camp on Okeechobee at that time. Those cuttings were the start of this whole new sugar industry, did you know that, Lucius?” Hoad shook his head. “After all his hard years, your dad’s fine cane will make fortunes for other men. ‘Great waste and a pity’ as Cap’n Bembery used to say,”

  Lucius nodded. Oh, God, how he wished poor Papa could have stood on those high dikes and enjoyed that view.

  • • •

  On the wings of his published history, Lucius submitted his biography proposal to the university press; his vantage point as Mr. Watson’s son, he said, would not blind him to the true nature of his subject’s character.

  This bold energetic man of rare intelligence and enterprise must also be understood as a man undone by his own deep flaws. He was known to drink to grievous excess, for example, which often turned him volatile and violent. On the other hand, his evil repute has been wildly exaggerated by careless journalists and their local informants, who seek to embellish their limited acquaintance with a “desperado”; with the result that the real man has been virtually entombed by tale and legend which since his death has petrified as myth.

  The most lurid view of Mr. Watson is the one perpetuated by the Islanders themselves, for as Dickens observed after his visit to this country, “These Americans do love a scoundrel.” Because his informants tend to imagine that the darkest interpretation is the one the writer wishes to hear, the popular accounts (until now, there have been no others) are invariably sensational as well as speculative: the hard facts, not to speak of “truth,” are missing. Also, this “Bloody Watson” material relates only to his final years in southwest Florida; one rarely encounters any reference to South Carolina, where Edgar Artemas Watson passed his boyhood, nor to the years in the Indian Country (always excepting his alleged role in the slaying of Belle Starr), nor even to the Fort White district of Columbia County in north Florida where he farmed in early manhood, married all three of his wives, and spent almost half of the fifty-five years of his life.

  In Watson’s youth, the Piedmont hinterlands of South Car
olina were little more than frontier wilderness, and to judge from my limited correspondence with the last Watsons in that region, our subject’s branch of a strong Carolina clan is all but forgotten now in Edgefield County. As for Fort White, his sister’s family maintains a stern vow of silence about “Uncle Edgar,” and locating the scattered elders who might relinquish scraps of problematic information would probably not repay the journey. Even here in southwest Florida, much local lore has disappeared under the earth of cemeteries.

  The biographer’s difficulties are inevitably compounded by the immense false record—“the Watson myth”—as well as by the failure to correct that record on the part of Mr. Watson’s family, whose reluctance to come to his defense by testifying to the positive aspects of his character is surely one reason why a dangerous reputation has expanded so grotesquely since his death. In the absence of family affirmation of that humor and generosity for which Edgar Watson was noted even among those who killed him, he has become a kind of mythic monster. The biographer’s aim is to discover the hard truths and reconstitute E. J. Watson and restore him to humankind as a paleontologist might reconstruct some primordial being known only from a few scattered shards of bone. As his second wife, the former Jane Susan Dyal of Deland, observed to her son Lucius not long before her death in 1901, “Your father frightens them not because he is a monster but because he is a man.”

  To honor her wisdom and redeem my subject’s essential humanity is the task before me.

  THE INDIAN

  Lucius Watson rose onto one elbow, ransacking torn dreams for the hard noise that had awakened him—that rattling bang of an old auto striking a pothole in the sandy track through the slash pine wood north of the salt creek. Who could that be? He had no neighbor on Caxambas Creek nor even a mailbox on the old road to Marco, a half mile away, that might betray his whereabouts.