Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die

by Chris Santella

  Almost every region in France has its noteworthy contributions to the universe of gastronomy, and Gascony is no different. Indeed, the region has been gaining a great deal of attention as one of France’s recently discovered foodie hot spots. Wonderfully rich soil and a warm climate foster abundant fruit orchards that yield plums, peaches, nectarines, kiwis, and apples, as well as a wide variety of vegetables. A number of grape varietals are grown for wine making, including Ugni Blanc. These grapes also find their way into what may be the region’s most celebrated drink, Armagnac, a distinctive brandy. Gascony’s best-known culinary contributions are decidedly earthy and will induce vegetarians (and cardiologists) to cringe. These include confit (duck legs poached in duck fat and stored in duck lard for months or years), blood sausage, magret (duck breast), charcuterie (using all parts of the pig), and foie gras made from both duck and geese. Most of these specialties can be found at public markets and restaurants in the towns of the Gers. If you don’t wish to wander far from your pitch, the restaurant at Le Camp de Florence receives high marks.

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  ROD WHEAT is campsites director for Alan Rogers, which organizes and books camping and caravanning holidays throughout Europe. The company represents more than five thousand locations.

  If You Go

  Getting There: Visitors can fly into Pau, which is served via Paris by Air France (+33 892 702 654; www.airfrance.fr). It’s roughly a ninety-minute drive from the airport to Le Camp de Florence.

  Best Time to Visit: The camping season in the Gers runs from April to mid-October.

  Campgrounds: Le Camp de Florence (+33 562 28 1558; www.lecampdeflorence.com) comes highly recommended. Tent sites during the high season begin at €36 for two adults per night. Booking is available through Alan Rogers (+44 1580 214 000; www.alanrogers.com).

  Activities: Swimming, hiking, biking, and cultural sightseeing.

  A portaledge enables visitors at Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht to take their tent camping to a new level . . . literally.

  Germany

  WALDSEILGARTEN HÖLLSCHLUCHT

  RECOMMENDED BY Markus Depprich

  There’s a certain exhilaration that comes with high-elevation camping. The crisp mountain air and sense of being a bit closer to the sky are invigorating, a balm to the senses. Visitors to Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht have the opportunity to take camping to a new, higher level . . . literally. Here, campers eschew the geographic limitations of campgrounds, opting instead to pitch their “tent” among the infinitely airy possibilities of the atmosphere.

  Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht rests near the village of Pfronten, in the southern section of the German state of Bavaria, southwest of Munich. The region, known as the Allgäu, rests in the shadow of the Bavarian Alps, and is celebrated for its bucolic scenery. “We have hills and mountains, but not too high, up to 6,500 feet,” Markus described. “In the early summer, farmers bring their cows up to the mountain meadows of the Alps to feed; they come back down in the early fall. [The traditional descent of the cows from the mountains around the Allgäu—known as the Viehscheid—happens throughout September and is marked by many traditional celebrations, complete with Bavarian beer and music.] People do mountain touring in summer and winter, sometimes staying overnight in huts. There are more than ten lakes within less than fifteen miles of Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht; many of these have campgrounds.” Though none of these campgrounds let you zip up your sleeping bag in the air!

  Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht’s “air tents” utilize portaledges, which (as its name strongly implies) is a portable ledge that was initially designed to allow rock climbers to set up a bed or shelter as they tackled a multiday pitch. Some trace the birth of portaledges to the climbers at Yosemite National Park, who liberated cots from camps in the valley in the sixties and outfitted them with straps (presumably quite strong) that required only a single anchor point. Before the creation of these early portaledges, climbers relied on hammocks, which required two anchor points . . . and since they were affixed to the rock wall in question, would become soaked if it happened to rain and were uncomfortable (at best) for sleeping. By the 1980s, several portaledges had been developed for the marketplace. Today’s portaledge still needs only one anchor point and is supported by four- or six-point suspensions; it resembles a hanging tent.

  At Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht, there are three options for aerial camping. The first takes place on the grounds of the resort’s High Ropes Course, where a platform is suspended from trees roughly twenty-five feet above the ground. Campers use ropes to climb up to the platform and can descend when necessary to answer nature’s call at nearby restrooms; a nearby waterfall provides a most invigorating morning shower. Option two takes you into the forest, where you’ll take your rest in a portaledge tent hanging from a sturdy tree branch. This is Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht’s most popular air-camping experience. Markus described how the day unfolds.

  “Guests usually arrive around lunchtime. That gives them time to explore the High Ropes Course and to warm up in general. The course has a number of different levels of varying difficulty, so people unaccustomed to climbing can get used to it slowly. For climbing up to the tent, we use a device called an ascender (which attaches to a rope to facilitate climbing), and you have a chance to practice using it with a guide. Using the ascender requires some strength, though people of average physical ability can certainly do it. Before leaving for the camping spot, we’ll either cook dinner over a barbecue or visit a traditional Bavarian restaurant. Then we pack up the portaledge, your sleeping bags, and clothing and head into the woods. Your guide will work with you to hang the tent in the trees. Then you’ll climb up—anywhere from ten to twenty feet—hopefully in time to enjoy the sunset. (It’s a good idea to do your toilet before you reach your tent!) Though the portaledge is safe, it’s not completely stable; you’ll sway a bit, especially if there’s any wind. But you’re firmly belayed, so you needn’t worry if you turn in your sleep. Your guide stays fairly nearby in case you need any help or wish to come down, but not so close as to impede on your privacy. You have a feeling of being very close to nature.” When you wake up the next morning, you climb down, pack up the tent/portaledge and head back to the High Ropes Course for breakfast. Campers have the option of sticking around to do more climbing on the ropes course, or to take advantage of Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht’s archery range.

  If you enjoy bivouacking from a tree and have a taste for adventure, the guides at Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht can help you experience a bit of big wall camping with option three, Bavarian style. Your guide will rappel with a tent, and then you’ll make your way down the cliff face to your portaledge—up to one thousand feet above the valley floor—for a most unique night’s sleep. (As you might expect, this option is not recommended for acrophobes.)

  Once you’ve returned to terra firma, consider exploring some of the Allgäu’s more earthbound attractions. “Many people tour Neuschwanstein Castle,” Markus explained. “This is the most famous of the castles that King Ludwig II commissioned and is said to have inspired the castle in the Disney logo.” Tours highlight the influence the operas of Richard Wagner had on Neuschwanstein’s construction, including its finely detailed murals. You’ll also want a chance to savor some of Bavaria’s hearty cuisine. “There are tasty cheeses, like the Allgäuer Bergkäse mountain cheese,” Markus added. “People also associate Bavaria with Weisswurst, or ‘white sausage,’ which is famous throughout Bavaria. [Legend says it was invented by accident in Munich.] A dish that’s very traditional in the Allgäu is Allgäuer Kässpätzle, which combines spätzle, cheeses, and onions. Of course, Kässpätzle is best when washed down with a mug of beer brewed by a local brewery like Kössel Bräu or Zötler.”

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  MARKUS DEPPRICH has lived in Bavaria for all of his life and works as a freelance trainer for outdoor education and team building in the summer and a ski instructor in the winter. His passions include skiing, hiking, and mountain climbing
. He is currently a guide at Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht. His travels have taken him to New Zealand, Australia, and Nepal.

  If You Go

  Getting There: Waldseilgarten is roughly two hours southwest of Munich, which is served by most major carriers.

  Best Time to Visit: Portaledge camping is available May through September.

  Campgrounds: Waldseilgarten (+49 83 63 9 25 98 96; www.waldseilgartenhoellschlucht.de) offers portaledge camping by previous arrangement. Tree camping begins at €250 per person. While platform camping can be enjoyed by families with younger children, portaledge camping is reserved for campers sixteen years or older.

  Activities: Rope climbing, hiking, archery, sightseeing.

  A stand up paddleboarder takes in the Sawtooths from beautiful Redfish Lake.

  Idaho

  REDFISH LAKE

  RECOMMENDED BY Terry Clark

  A pristine alpine lake backed by soaring mountains. A sprawling wilderness area where the same ecosystems and animals that thrived here before Lewis and Clark’s expedition remain extant. A homey, family-style resort that harkens back to summer vacations of a bygone era.

  All of these elements come together at Redfish Lake in central Idaho.

  “The region around Stanley, Idaho, is well known as an outdoor recreation hub,” Terry Clark began, “and Redfish Lake is the focus of outdoor recreation in greater Stanley. You’re surrounded by the Sawtooth National Recreation Area, more than 750,000 acres of mostly undeveloped country. The lake itself is five miles long and very clear, with the Sawtooth Mountains rising abruptly to the west, including Grand Mogul [elevation 9,733 feet] and Mount Heyburn [elevation 10,239 feet]. On the northern end of the lake, there’s a quaint lodge, a small marina, a boat ramp, and a little store. The rest of the lakeshore (and beyond) is undeveloped. You can take a boat shuttle from the north side of the lake to the south side for twelve dollars. Walk five minutes or so, and you’re in the Sawtooth Wilderness.”

  Redfish Lake takes its name from the vast numbers of sockeye salmon that once migrated here from the Pacific, a voyage of some nine hundred miles (the longest migration of any salmon species). Dams on the Columbia and Snake River systems nearly drove Redfish Lake sockeye to extinction; some might recall “Lonesome Larry,” the single salmon that returned to the lake in 1991. Larry’s story galvanized government efforts to resuscitate the run, and thanks to the Redfish Lake Sockeye Captive Broodstock Program, more than 1,500 fish returned to the lake in 2013. “I wouldn’t say that the sockeye runs have recovered,” Terry continued, “but they are certainly making progress.” Fishing is an attraction for many visitors to Redfish Lake, though the sockeye are not the target. Instead, anglers seek rainbow trout and kokanee (a species of landlocked sockeye) in the lake, and rainbow and cutthroat trout in the nearby Salmon River. The Salmon is also a popular white-water rafting and kayaking venue; a number of guide services stand ready in nearby Stanley to lead guests on full- or half-day paddles.

  “We’ve seen a trend in recent years among visitors, especially baby boomers,” Terry ventured. “They’re not going into the back country as long as they used to. Instead, they come in and set up camp, and then try to get in a number of activities. They might hike for a few days, rent a horse one day from Redfish Lake Corrals and do some trail riding, hire on with a river outfitter for a white-water trip, and rent a stand-up paddleboard or a motorboat to spend some time on the lake.” Whether you’re on the river, the lake, or a trail, the Sawtooths provide a spectacular backdrop. Some fifty-seven peaks top 10,000 feet, and another seventy-seven eclipse 9,000 feet. The proximity in height between the peaks gave the Sawtooth range its name.

  There are eight campgrounds around Redfish Lake: Glacier View, Point, Chinook Bay, Mt. Heyburn, Mountain View, Outlet, Redfish Lake Inlet, and Sockeye. Most sites rest in pockets of lodgepole pine; many have vistas of the lake or mountains. All have easy access to the lake’s beaches. A nice plus at Redfish Lake is the presence of a service area near the lodge, where hot showers, propane, and a small general store are available. (A larger grocery store, a number of restaurants, and several outdoor specialty stores are available in Stanley.) The larger mammals of the Sawtooth are unlikely to visit your camp, though you can rest assured that they’re not far away. “The iconic critter here is the mountain goat, and they’re spied with some regularity on the cliffsides, if you get out on the trail. We also have elk, mule deer, black bears (boxes are provided in camp), cougar, wolverines, and several wolf packs.”

  The presence of Redfish Lake Lodge adds an extra dimension of fun for campers. Built in 1929, the lodge offers visitors a chance to take a break from camp-stove cooking and an opportunity to come in from the weather. “There’s a full-service restaurant inside the lodge that has a full bar and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner,” Terry described, “and there’s a kiosk outside that serves hamburgers and beer—more of a picnic atmosphere. There’s a big lawn in front of the lodge overlooking the boat dock and a small sand beach. During the summer, they have live music on the lawn, local and regional bands, rock, country, blue-grass. People spread out picnic blankets and enjoy.” Near the lodge is the Redfish Center & Gallery. In addition to providing abundant information for planning your activities around the lake, the center hosts a number of naturalist programs for visitors, including guided hikes and evening programs on topics ranging from the natural history of wolverines to the region’s unique geology. Younger campers can participate in a Junior Ranger program.

  There’s no shortage of fine day hikes in the vicinity of Redfish Lake. One hike—really a walk—that’s special to Terry is the Fishhook Creek Nature Trail, which begins right at the Redfish Center. “The trail is really a boardwalk that goes along and, in places, over Fishhook Creek,” Terry explained. “There are interpretive signs that cover the plant life and great views of the mountains. There’s some good birding along the walk, as osprey, kingfishers, and even bald eagles are drawn to the creek, looking for fish. In the early fall I love to walk down the boardwalk and watch the sockeye spawn. To me, it epitomizes one of the miracles of nature, both the salmon’s long journey and all the wildlife that congregates around the creek. It’s mystical. It shows what’s right in the world.”

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  TERRY CLARK is the executive director of the Sawtooth Interpretive and Historical Association. In 2010, Terry retired from the U.S. Forest Service after a thirty-four-year career that took him to National Forests in six states. He spent almost half his career in the Sawtooth National Forest. In 1989, when he first laid eyes on the Sawtooth Mountains from Galena Summit, he knew he had found his place in space. He has been dedicated to preserving, protecting, and enjoying it ever since.

  If You Go

  Getting There: Visitors can fly into Boise, which is served by many carriers; from there it’s a roughly three-hour (130-mile) drive to Redfish Lake.

  Best Time to Visit: Campgrounds are open late May through mid-September. July and August see the most visitors. The region is open for cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and snowshoeing in the winter.

  Campgrounds: There are nine campgrounds around/near Redfish Lake. Reservations can be made for some of the campgrounds (including Glacier View, Point, and Outlet) at recreation.gov (877-444-6777). Sites begin at $16.

  Activities: Boating, fishing, swimming, hiking, biking, white-water rafting, horseback riding, interpretive activities.

  Isola del Garda was once visited by St. Francis of Assisi, and is a short boat ride from Fornella Camping.

  Italy

  LAKE GARDA

  RECOMMENDED BY Russell Wheldon

  Lake Garda sits in northern Italy, just west of the town of Verona, which was popularized by Shakespeare’s Two Gentlemen of Verona. It’s Italy’s largest lake, stretching over thirty miles in length and reaching a maximum width of ten miles and a depth of more than one thousand feet. In the north, the lake is encircled by mountains, the southern reach of the Italian Alps; in the south, by h
ills scoured by receding glaciers. Garda’s waters are exceptionally clear and pleasantly cool, and have attracted holiday seekers from the north and south for many generations; in fact, 7 percent of all tourists to Italy visit Lake Garda.

  There are a number of camping options around Lake Garda. Russell Wheldon prefers Fornella Camping for clients who are seeking an Italian lake experience. “Fornella is one of the few campsites on Lake Garda still surrounded by olive plantations,” he offered. “It’s still retained a true country atmosphere. Many sites look out over the lake. Those that don’t have fine views of the surrounding hills and the orchards. The lake is of course a main attraction, and Fornella has excellent facilities for water-sports enthusiasts, whether you’re a boater or a windsurfer.”

  There are a host of different accommodation options at Fornella. Simple cabins (with all the amenities of home) are available in two- and three-bedroom configurations, both on the lake and set back in the olive orchards. “Safari tents” (which resemble yurts) also provide a more glamping-oriented experience. There are also more than 250 sites for tents or recreational vehicles. All come equipped with electricity, and many have water as well. As is the case in many campgrounds in Europe, Wi-Fi is available throughout Fornella. If you don’t feel like cooking, there’s both a full-service restaurant and a pizzeria. If you do, there’s a store on premises to secure provisions. There are a number of pool options available around the campground and two beaches—the “morning beach” (which faces the southeast) and the “evening beach” (which faces the southwest and has the advantage of proximity to the bar). The beaches are composed of smallish pebbles, so consider water shoes if your feet are sensitive.