A Pinch of Culinary Science
Page 19
17 Can You Cut Down on the Salt Without Affecting the Taste?
Cho, H., Kim, S. M., Jeong, S. S. & Kim, S. B. (2016). Comparison of salt taste thresholds and salt usage behaviors between adults in Myanmar and Korea. Asia Pacific Journal of Clinical Nutrition 25(4), 879–884. http://doi.org/10.6133/apjcn.092015.32.
Elmer, P. J. (1988). The effect of dietary sodium reduction and potassium chloride supplementation on sodium chloride taste perceptions in mild hypertensives. Unpublished doctoral thesis. University of Minnesota. Referenced in: IOM (Institute of Medicine), Henney, J. E., Taylor C. L. & Boon C. S., (Eds.) (2010). Strategies to Reduce Sodium Intake in the United States. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK50958.
European Commission (s.a.). Salt campaign. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://ec.europa.eu/health/nutrition_physical_activity/high_level_group/nutrition_salt_en.
Gillette, M. (1985). Flavor effects of sodium chloride. Food Technology, 39, 47–56. Referenced in Liem, D. Gie., Miremadi F. & Keast R. S. J. (2011). Reducing Sodium in Foods: The Effect on Flavor. Nutrients, 3(6), 694–711. http://doi.org/10.3390/nu3060694.
Henney, J. E., Taylor, C.L. & Boon, C. S. (Eds.) (2010). Strategies to Reduce Sodium Intake in the United States. Institute of Medicine (US) Committee on Strategies to Reduce Sodium Intake. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK50956.
Lawrence, G., Salles, C., Septier, C., Busch, J. & Thomas-Danguin, T. (2009). Odour–taste interactions: A way to enhance saltiness in low-salt content solutions. Food Quality and Preference, 20(3), 241–248. http://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodqual.2008.10.004.
Lersch, M. (2007, May 1). Practical molecular gastronomy, part 5. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://blog.khymos.org/2007/05/01/practical-molecular-gastronomy-part-5.
Nasri, N., Septier, C., Beno, N., Salles, C. & Thomas-Danguin, T. (2013). Enhancing salty taste through odour–taste–taste interactions: Influence of odour intensity and salty tastants’ nature. Food Quality and Preference, 28(1), 134–140. http://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodqual.2012.07.004.
The Norwegian Directorate of eHealth (2017, June 21). Hvordan spise mindre salt? (How to Eat Less Salt?) Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://helsenorge.no/kosthold-og-ernaring/kostrad/salt/hvordan-spise-mindre-salt.
Umami Information Center (2017). Umami Rich Ingredients. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://www.umamiinfo.com/richfood.
US Food and Drug Administration (2018, August 2). Sodium Reduction. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://www.fda.gov/food/ingredientspackaginglabeling/foodadditivesingredients/ucm253316.htm.
World Health Organization (2016, June 30). Salt reduction. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from http://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/salt-reduction.
World Health Organization Europe (2014, September 26). Reducing salt consumption. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from http://www.euro.who.int/en/health-topics/disease-prevention/nutrition/news/news/2014/09/reducing-salt-consumption.
18 Physics Takes the Cake
Barham, P. (2001). The science of cooking. Berlin: Springer, 151–157.
19 The Great Norwegian Porridge Feud
Brekke, L., Fet, M. & Fet, J. (2015). Personal communications, and mail correspondence August 2015.
Brown, C. (2010). Broths to Bannocks: A History of Cooking in Scotland from 1690 to the Present Day. Lanark: Waverley Books Ltd.
Haggrén, G., Halinen, P., Lavento, M., Raninen, S. & Wessman, A. (2015). Muinaisuutemme jäljet. Helsinki: Gaudeamus.
Kolmonen, J. & Sommar, H. (2017). Cooking potato casserole (video). YLE – Finnish Broadcasting Company. https://yle.fi/aihe/artikkeli/2009/12/17/imelletyn-perunalaatikon-valmistus.
Riddervold, A. & Ropeid, A. (1984). Popular diet in Norway and natural science during the 19th century. The porridge feud 1864–66. Ethnologia Scandinavica, 48–65.
Ropeid, A. (1972). Fornuftigt madstel. Oslo: By og bygd – Yearbook of the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History 1971–72, 77–112.
Sanden, J. (2006). Tradisjonsmat i Romsdal. Med oppskrifter. In J. Sanden (Ed.), Yearbook of Romsdal Museum (Vol. 2006, 11–57). Molde: Romsdal Museum. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://www.romsdalsmuseet.no/no/kunnskap/arboker.
20 Doing the Dishes
No references.
Index
2,3-dihydroxysuccinic acid, 18, 19
2-hydroxybutanedioic acid, 18, 19
A
Acidity, 46, 156, 175
Acids in cooking, 48–49; see also individual acids
Al dente (“for the teeth”) structure, 159, 165
America’s Test Kitchen, 124
Amino acids, 24, 67, 69, 114
Amylase, 67, 206, 208, 216
Anthocyanins, 170
Antioxidant, 69
Apples, 15, 17
“Aquafaba,” 43
Argentinian Malbec, 156, 157
Aroma compounds, 181
Aromas, 17, 41, 42, 114, 144, 154, 156–157, 168, 170, 173, 175, 181, 184, 185, 186
Aromatic foods and drinks, 169
Asbjørnsen, Peter Christen, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 208
Asceticism, 179, 180, 181
Ascorbic acid, 69
Astringency, 154, 173, 175
B
Bacteria, 89
Bailey, Pia Snitkjær, 151, 154, 155, 156
Baldwin, Douglas, 106
Barbecuing/grilling, 97, 99, 103
Barbeque sausage, 54
Barham, Peter, 189, 196
Basic risotto, 143–144, 146; see also White wine
ingredients, 146
procedure, 146
Beaujolais, 156
Beef bouillon, 185, 186, 187
Beer, 171,
vs. wine, 45
Bitterness, 142, 143, 144, 145, 156, 157, 169, 177, 179
Blanched potatoes, 81
Blind tasting, 17, 48, 60, 94, 120, 144, 157, 163, 164, 185
Blót, 130
Boiling zone, 113, 115
“Boneless tombs,” 128
Bonifacius, Clemens, 199–200
Bordeaux Chateau de Sequin, 173
Botulinum bacteria, 89
Bouillons, 149, 151, 185
Bouquet garni, 150
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 30
British crisps, 180
Bronze Age, 127, 128, 131, 136
Broth, 149–157
brown meat stock, 149–150
red wine stock, 154–155
blind tasting, 157
components, 155
experiment, 155–157
stock cooking, 152–153
Brown, Catherine, 205
Brown cheese, 203
Brown meat stock, 149–150
Burnt residues, 216
C
Cabernet Sauvignon, 154
Cake, 189–196
drop, 196
experiment, 191
foamy structure, 191–193
oven baking process, 194–195
recipe, 190
Calcium, 80, 84
Caramelization reactions, 142
Carbohydrates, 215
Carbonate ions, 217
Carbon dating, 128
Carbon dioxide, 41
Carbonic acid, 41
Carlsberg beer, 171
Chemical burning sensation, 169
Chickpea foaming, 40–43
Coagulation, 24, 46
Coal barbecue, 106
Coffee, 169
Cold meat experiment, 120
Cold skillet, 109–110, 115–116
Cold-skillet salmon, 116
ingredients, 116
procedure, 116
Collagen, 59, 113
Condensation, 98, 103–104, 134
Conduction, 97, 98–99, 101, 104, 105, 114, 134
Conduction zone, 114
Continuous phase, 55, 56, 59, 192
Convection, 98, 101–103, 104, 105, 114, 134
Convection ovens, 103
Co
oked potato, 77–85; see also Red bacalao hotpot
blind tasting, 81, 85
experiment, 81
firm potatoes, 79–81
pectin methylesterase (PME), 82, 84–85
turning soft, 77, 79
Cooking eggs, 23–33
around 100°C, 25–26
in cooling water, 26–27
DIY for, 32–33
equipment and materials, 32
procedure, 32
serving suggestions, 33
tips, 33
in lab, 24–25
temperature development, 31
time and temperature effect on yolk structure, 28
at 6X°C, 27–28
Cooking loss, 62, 120–121
Cooking pits, 128
Cooking with heat, 104–107
“Cook my meat calculator,” 122
Cooling sensation, 169
Crunching sounds, 171
“Culinary Biophysics: on the Nature of the 6X°C Egg,” 27
D
Denaturation, 24, 35, 37, 48, 49, 51, 62, 66, 81, 114
Diffusion rate, 93
Digital cooking thermometer, see Kitchen thermometer
Dishwasher detergents, 214, 215, 217
Dishwashers, 213
Dishwashing, 214, 217
Dispersed phase, 56, 57, 58, 59, 192
Dispersion, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 191, 214
DIY for cooking 6X°C eggs, 32–33
equipment and materials, 32
procedure, 32
serving suggestions, 33
tips, 33
Doing dishes, 213–217
Dry codfish, 75
Dry cooking, 129, 131, 135, 138
Dry pasta, 159, 162
Durum wheat pasta, 163–164, 165
“Duvet porridge,” 139
E
Earth ovens, see Cooking pits
Egg white, 23, 24, 25, 35, 38, 41, 43
chemistry, 37
proteins, 35, 40, 41, 49, 66
Egg yolk, 23, 25, 29
cooking time and temperature effect on, 28
Electrostatic attraction, 91
Elmer, Patricia, 179
Emulsifiers, 54
Emulsifying agents, 54, 55
Emulsion, 35, 42, 54, 55, 56, 58, 59, 60, 62, 214
“Emulsion sauce,” 56
Enzymatic reaction, 65, 66–68, 70
Enzymes, 65, 67–68, 73
Enzyme theory, 71
Esters, 17
Ethanol, 49
Evaporation, 79, 105
Evaporation–condensation energy, 104
F
FAO, see Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO)
Farm wives’ cooking practice, 200, 202, 203, 204, 209
Fat and grease, 213
Faye, Frans Christian, 203, 204, 208
Fermentation, 87–88, 89
Finland, 67, 68, 84, 128, 132, 183, 206
Finnish Christmas potato casserole, 206, 207, 209, 216
ingredients, 207
procedure, 207
Firm potatoes, 79–81
Fish
bouillon, 185, 186, 187
salting and drying, 75
Fish frying, 109–116
cold-skillet salmon, 116
ingredients, 116
procedure, 116
experiment, 111
Flavor, 17, 18, 42, 43, 49, 65, 94, 106, 114, 123, 131, 142–143, 149, 150, 154, 156, 165, 169, 177, 179, 181–182, 184, 185, 186–187, 203, 206, 208–209
Foams, 35, 36, 37–38, 40–43, 50, 51, 56, 59, 150, 191, 193, 214
Food additives, 18, 19
Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), 59
Food and Drug Administration, 184
Food science, 151
Food Technology, 177
Frøst, Michael Bom, 20
Fruit acids, 15, 17
G
Garlic, 65, 66
Garum, 87
Gas barbecue, 106
Gel, 35, 42, 56, 58, 59, 60, 62, 161
Gelatinization, 161, 162, 205
Gillette, Marianne, 177
Gliadins, 160
Glucose, 144
Glucosinolates, 69, 70
Gluten, 43, 160, 161, 162, 181
Glutenins, 160
“Graving” process, 94
Gravity, 93
Gravlax, 87–94
pinch of salt chemistry, 90–91
salmon fillets with salt, 92
salt dissolves in water, 91, 93–94
H
Hákarl, 88
Haybox/straw box, 139
Heat capacity, 134
Heat conductivity, 114
Heating, 97–107
condensation, 103–104
conduction, 98–99
convection, 101–103
cooking, 104–107
radiation, 99–101
sugar, 142
Heat transfer, 105–106, 107, 134–135
Hemicellulose, 79
Hodge, John E., 114
Hollandaise sauce, 143
Holt-Hansen, Kristian, 171
Hopia, Anu, 33, 90, 167
Horse meat, 130
Hot dogs, 53, 103
Hot pan technique, 114, 115
Hot skillet, 115
Hydrogen peroxide, 217
Hydrophilic part, 213
I
Ig Nobel Prize, 171
Imelletty perunalaatikko, see Finnish Christmas potato casserole
Industrially prepared foods, 183–185
Infrared radiation, 99, 100
Inhibitors, 67–68, 71
Ions, 80, 90–91, 92, 93, 217
Ippes, Jappe, 75
Iron Age, 128
Italian recipes, 159
J
Juicy fish, 109; see also Fish frying
K
KitchenAid machine, 40
Kitchen thermometer, 109, 110, 136
Klippfisk, 75
L
Lambs legs cooking, 133, 137
Larousse Gastronomique, 141
Late Iron Age, 130
Legume-derived proteins, 42
Lehtovaara, Tatu, 46, 68, 71, 90, 93, 109, 116, 119, 163, 190
Lemon/Lime juice, 18, 48–49, 56, 69, 143, 168, 170, 181
Lersch, Martin, 179
Lingonberries, 51
Lipophilic, 213
Liquid foam, 191, 192, 193
Loimulohi, 100, 103, 104
London Symphony Orchestra, 172
M
Maillard, Louis Camille, 114, 150
Maillard browning reactions, 113, 114, 124, 135, 142–143, 203
Maillard zone, 113
Malic acid, see 2-hydroxybutanedioic acid
Mayonnaise, 29, 56
Meat tempering, 119–124
blind tasting, 120–122
cold meat experiment, 120
cooking rule, 122–124
heating at 100°C, 123
Mercadé-Prieto, Ruben, 27
Meringue, 36–43
chickpeas’ foaming, 40–43
egg white chemistry, 37
from egg white/pea, 35–36
ingredients, 36
procedure, 36
Micelles, 213
Microorganisms, 87, 122
Microwave cooking, 100, 104, 106
Mielby, Line Holler, 20
Mirepoix, 150
Mixture suppression effect, 143
Mock apple pie, 16–20
authentic, 18
ingredients, 16
procedure, 16–17
psychology of eating, 18–20
Modernist Cuisine, 106, 111, 113, 141
Molecular gastronomy, 151
Molecular Gastronomy, 23
Monosodium glutamate (MSG), 182, 185
Morot, Gil, 170
Mouthfeel, 42, 59, 77, 142, 144, 154–155, 156
MSG, see Monosodium glutamate (MSG)
Multisensory experience, 168, 170
Mussels, 45–49, 141, 182
acids in cooking, 48–49
blind tasting, 48
ingredients, 47
procedure, 47
steamed, 47–49
Mustard, 65–73
and enzyme theory, 71
experiment, 72
homemade, 68
ingredients, 68, 72
myrosinase enzyme liberating pungent compounds, 70
procedure, 72
pungency, 69–70, 71, 73
Mustard powders, 71
Myanmar, 180
Myhrvold, Nathan, 113
Myosin, 62
Myrosinase, 68, 70, 73
N
Narmo, Lars Erik, 131, 132
National Hot Dog and Sausage Council, 53
Nordic countries, 127–128, 129
Norway, 75, 77, 88, 139, 199, 202, 204, 205, 208
Norwegian porridge, 199–210
“brown cheese,” 203
experiment, 203–204
farm wives’ cooking practice, 200, 202, 203, 204
flavor hypothesis, 206, 208–209
nutrition hypothesis, 204–205
procedure, 200–203
proving hypothesis, 209–210
texture hypothesis, 205
O
Onion, 65, 66
Oven baking process, 194–195
Oxford English Dictionary, 43
Oxidation process, 69
P
Paleolithic Era, 128
Pancake, 191
Pasta, 159–165
chemical substances in, 160
experiment, 163–165
gelatinization of wheat starch, 161
role of salt, 162
Pectin, 77, 78, 79–80, 82
Pectin methylesterase (PME), 67, 80, 81, 82, 84–85
pH, 24, 41, 45, 46, 70, 71, 89
PME, see Pectin methylesterase (PME)
Polarity, 181
Pollan, Michael, 19
Polyphenol oxidase (PPO), 68
Popper, Karl, 129, 209
Pork sausages, 60
Porridge cooking experiments, 181
Potato crisps, 171
PPO, see Polyphenol oxidase (PPO)
Prehistoric cooking, 127–139
cooking pit, 131–135
temperature monitoring, 136–138
tender meat, 135–136
historical perspective, 127–131
Processed food, 18
Protease enzymes, 215
Proteins, 24, 35, 37, 41, 42, 46, 48–49, 51, 55, 66, 67, 192, 214–215
Pungency, 65–66, 68, 69–70, 71, 73
R
Radiation, 97, 99–101, 134
Rakfisk, 88
Rastas, Arto, 33
“Ready salted” crisps, 180
Red bacalao hotpot, 76–77; see also Cooked potato
ingredients, 76
procedure, 76
1–2 days before serving, 76
on day of serving, 76