Lonely Planet Morocco
Page 35
AMeknès 1st/2nd class Dh95/69, two hours, hourly
AOujda 1st/2nd class Dh285/190, 9½ hours, two daily
ATangier 1st/2nd class Dh153/101, four hours, eight daily
8Getting Around
Boat
Commuter rowing boats ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) cross the estuary between Rabat and Salé between sunrise and sunset (Dh2.50).
Bus
Buses are horribly crowded and barely roadworthy; tickets can be purchased from conductors on board and cost Dh4.
Car & Motorcycle
Blue lines around street car parks indicate that drivers must buy a ticket from a nearby machine (Dh2 per hour).
City-centre parking restrictions apply from 8am to noon and 2pm to 7pm Monday to Saturday; metered parking costs Dh2 per hour.
When there are no blue lines or machines, unofficial parking attendants will often help you park and expect a tip of Dh5 to Dh10.
Taxi
Rabat’s blue petits taxis are plentiful, cheap and quick. A ride around the centre of town will cost between Dh15 and Dh30 – try to get the driver to use his meter. There’s a petit-taxi rank near the entrance of the medina on Ave Hassan II and another at the train station. Note that petits taxis aren't allowed to drive between Rabat and Salé.
Larbi El Wardi (%0661 71 20 17, 0603 48 43 23) is a friendly English-speaking taxi driver with a new car complete with air-con, wi-fi and functioning seatbelts. Can do short or long trips.
Tram
The smart and efficient Rabat-Salé tramway (www.tram-way.ma) system is an excellent way to get around Rabat.
Line 1 runs along Ave Hassan II next to the medina, detouring past the Hassan Tower to Bab Lamrissa next to the Salé medina and then on to Hassan II.
Line 2 starts at Madinat Al Irfane, stopping at Agdal/Avenue de France, Mohammed V/Gare de Rabat in the ville nouvelle, Bab Lamrissa, Salé Ville trains station and Hay Karima.
Fares are Dh6, bought from ticket machines on the platforms (multiple journey tickets are also available).
Services run every 20 minutes, from 6am to 10pm.
Salé سلا
Pop 980,000
The winds of change are blowing strongly through Salé, with a development boom and population explosion well and truly under way. Now considerably larger than its neighbour (Rabat) on the opposite bank of the Oued Bou Regreg, it is now functioning as an integrated part of the capital rather than the staid satellite town it once was. Assisted by an efficient modern tram link and the newly constructed marina just south of the medina, it is attracting industry, commerce and tourism, and looks set to prosper. That said, it has retained a traditional flavour and is noticeably more conservative than Rabat.
THE SALLEE ROVERS: SALé'S PIRATE GOVERNMENT
In 1619 a group of corsairs (pirates) declared the ancient port of Salé to be an independent republic and gave allegiance to their leader, Dutchman Jan Janszoon van Haarlem (c 1570–1641), rather than to the sultan. Known as the Sallee or Salé Rovers, they named their republic Bou Regreg and set up a government that consisted of 14 pirate leaders, with Janszoon, who was also known as Murat Reis the Younger, as both their president and the admiral of their 18-ship navy. After ordering an unsuccessful siege of the city, the sultan bowed to the inevitable and acknowledged the republic by declaring Janszoon governor in 1624.
Under the rule of the Sallee Rovers, Salé initially prospered. The Rovers patrolled the shipping routes between Atlantic colonial ports and Europe, seizing ships and their gold, and also selling the ships' crews into slavery. Fees from anchorage and other harbour dues also enriched the corsairs' coffers. Soon, though, the political climate worsened and Janszoon and most of his followers departed in 1627.
The exploits of the Rovers were recounted throughout Europe and the Americas, and even made it into fiction when, in 1719, Daniel Defoe's novel Robinson Crusoe was published. In it, Robinson Crusoe spends time being held captive by the Sallee Rovers and eventually sails off to liberty from the mouth of the Salé river.
History
People began to settle in Salé in the 10th century and the town grew in importance as inhabitants of the older settlement at Sala Colonia began to move across the river to the new town. Warring among local tribes was still rampant at this stage and it was the Almohads who took control of the area in the 12th century, establishing neighbouring Rabat as a base for expeditions to Spain.
Spanish freebooters attacked in 1260; in response the Merenids fortified the town, building defensive walls and a canal to Bab Mrisa to allow safe access for shipping. The town began to flourish and established valuable trade links with Venice, Genoa, London and the Netherlands.
As trade thrived so too did piracy, and by the 16th century the twin towns prospered from the activities of the infamous Sallee Rovers pirates.
By the 19th century the pirates had been brought under control, Rabat had been made capital and Salé had sunk into an obscurity from which it is only now emerging.
Salé
1Sights
1Grand MosqueB1
2Koubba of Sidi Ben Ashir at-TalebA1
3Medersa Abou al-HassanB1
4Salé MedinaC2
5Slave PrisonA1
6Souq el-GhezelB2
7Souq el-KebirC2
8Souq el-MerzoukB2
9Zawiya of Sidi Abdallah Ben HassounB1
10Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed TijaniB1
4Sleeping
11ReposeB1
1Sights
The main entrance to the medina is Bab Bou Haja, near the Bab Lamrissa tram stop on the southwestern wall. From here walk left (north) to the souqs and the Great Mosque, 500m further northwest along Rue Ras ash-Shajara (also known as Rue de la Grande Mosquée). Alternatively, enter at Bab Lekhmiss (aka Khmiss), between the Bab Lamrissa and Gare de Salé tram stops, and walk straight ahead to find the souqs and mosque.
Salé MedinaAREA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; jBab Lamrissa)
Retaining an almost medieval flavour, this 13th-century walled medina is visited on a regular basis by the city's pious, who come to worship in the Grand Mosque and three important shrines. Local housewives are also regulars, lured by its various souqs selling fresh produce, clothing, household goods, jewellery and spices.
Medersa Abou al-HassanHISTORIC BUILDING
(Médersa des Mérinide; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salé Medina; Dh10; h8.30am-5pm; jBab Lamrissa)
Attached to the magnificent Grand Mosque, this medersa, next to the mosque's monumental entrance gate, is a showcase of superb Merenid architecture and decorative arts. Both it and the mosque date from the first half of the 14th century and were commissioned by Almohad Sultan Abou al-Hassan. The medersa takes the form of a narrow courtyard surrounded by a gallery, and every available surface is encrusted in intricate zellij, carved stucco or elegant cedar woodwork.
Small student cells surround the gallery on the upper floor, from where you can climb through an aperture to the flat roof, which has excellent views of Salé and across to Rabat. The guardian who shows you around will expect a small tip.
Grand MosqueMOSQUE
(Grand Mosqée; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salé Medina; jBab Lamrissa)
Dating from the beginning of the 11th century, this is the third-largest mosque in Morocco. An architectural mix of the Almoravid and Almohad styles, it has been rebuilt many times over the centuries. It is closed to non-Muslims.
Zawiya of Sidi Abdallah Ben HassounISLAMIC SHRINE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Sidi Abdallah Ben Hassoun, Salé Medina; jBab Lamrissa)
Salé's patron saint, Sidi Abdallah ibn Hassoun, was a 16th-century Sufi cleric and teacher. He is revered by Moroccan Muslims as a patron of travellers in much the same way as St Christopher is revered among Catholics. An annual candlelit pilgrimage and procession in his honour makes its way through the streets of Salé on the evening of Mouloud (the Prophet's birthday), ending at this zawiya (religious shrine) behind the Grand Mosque, which only Muslims may enter.
&nbs
p; Slave PrisonNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Sidi Ben Achir; jBab Lamrissa)
Built by the dastardly Sallee Rovers pirates and recently restored, this slave prison next to the Muslim cemetery hadn't officially opened during our most recent visit, but the caretaker was happy to show visitors around for a Dh20 tip.
Koubba of Sidi Ben Ashir at-TalebISLAMIC SHRINE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Aves Sidi Ben Achir & Abdelkader Al Harrati, Salé Medina; jBab Lamrissa)
This white koubba (shrine of a saint) at the edge of the medina was built to honour a 14th-century Spanish adherent and teacher of Sufism. The faithful come here to pray for cures to blindness and other ailments. Non-Muslims may not enter.
Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed TijaniISLAMIC SHRINE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salé Medina; jBab Lamrissa)
Shrine of the 18th-century founder of the Tijaniyya Sufi order. Non-Muslims may not enter.
DON'T MISS
SALé SOUQ ACTION
Join in the bustle of local medina life in Salé's traditional souqs.
Souq el-GhezelSOUQ
(Wool Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salé Medina)
Shaded by trees and unchanged for centuries, the atmospheric Souq el-Ghezel makes an interesting stop on Tuesday and Thursday mornings, when men and women haggle over the price and quality of rough white wool as it hangs from ancient scales suspended from a large tripod.
Souq el-MerzoukSOUQ
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salé Medina; jBab Lamrissa)
Textiles, basketwork and jewellery are crafted and sold in this souq. Also on sale are the woven grass mats used in mosques, for which Salé is famous.
Souq el-KebirSOUQ
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salé Medina; jBab Lamrissa)
The medina's main souq, selling household goods, leather and wood. The spice souq is nearby.
4Sleeping & Eating
Now that the tram has made Salé more accessible, and encouraged by the success of the popular Repose, guesthouses are starting to open in the medina.
There are plenty of hole-in-the-wall cafes in the souqs, as well as a popular juice bar and bakery just inside Bab Bou Haja.
Salé is an almost totally alcohol-free area; you'll need to go to one of the restaurants at the new marina or into Rabat if you want to drink alcohol.
oReposeGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 88 29 58; www.therepose.com; 17 Zankat Talaa, Ras Chejra, Salé Medina; ste incl breakfast Dh450-700; aiW; jBab Lamrissa)S
Husband-and-wife team Jan and Rachid have restored this traditional medina house with great style, creating a delightful retreat. All four guest rooms have vibrant decor, sitting areas and excellent bathrooms. There's a sun-drenched roof terrace where breakfast is served, and three-course vegetarian or vegan dinners (Dh200) are also available. Other offerings include cooking classes (Dh400) and argan-oil massage (Dh200).
8Information
There are banks with ATMs on Ave 2 Mars near Bab Bou Haja.
Pharmacy ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Bab Khebaz)
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Bab Khmiss; h8am-4.15pm Mon-Fri, to 11.45am Sat)
8Getting There & Away
ABoat From the marina boats ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) to Rabat leave when full and operate between sunrise and sunset (Dh2.50).
ABus Salé’s main bus station is 2km east of the medina, but buses from Rabat also stop outside Bab Lamrissa.
ATram The easiest way to travel between Rabat and Salé is by tram (Dh6).
ATaxi Pick up a grand taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ) in Rabat on Ave Hassan II opposite Bab Chellah; ask for the Bab Bou Haja or Bab Lamrissa. From Salé there are departures from Bab Lekhmiss and Bab Mrisa (D4 one way). Note that petits taxis are not permitted to travel between Rabat and Salé.
ATrain Trains run to/from Rabat, but the tram or grands taxis are probably the simplest options. Trains north to Kenitra run every 30 minutes (Dh16, 25 minutes).
Around Rabat & Salé
Jardins ExotiquesGARDENS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 82 27 56; www.jardinsexotiques.com; Bouknadel; adult/child/family of 4 Dh20/15/50; h9am-6.30pm autumn & winter, to 7.30pm spring & summer)
Created by French horticulturist Marcel François in 1951, these gardens were declared a Natural Heritage site in 2003. Though neither attractive nor particularly well maintained, they are a popular day trip for residents of Rabat and Salé. The gardens are 13km north of Rabat on the road to Kenitra. Take bus 9 from Bab Chellah in Rabat or from Bab Lekhmiss at the Salé medina.
Areas include the Jardin Nature, plantations that evoke the exotic vegetation the horticulturist encountered on his many travels; and the Jardin Culture, referring more to the philosophy of the garden in different cultures. There's also a vivarium for reptiles.
Musées BelghaziMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 82 21 78; http://museebelghazi.marocoriental.com; main collection Dh40, private rooms Dh100; hwhen staff available 9am-5pm; g9 from Rabat & Salé)
This forlorn ethnographic museum certainly isn't worth a dedicated visit from Rabat. It displays a dusty collection of traditional Andalucian, Jewish Moroccan and Islamic arts and crafts amassed by the Belghazi family, and the entry fee is overpriced for what is on offer. The museum is 17km from Salé on the road to Kenitra. Take bus 9 from Bab Chellah in Rabat or from Bab Lekhmiss at the Salé medina.
Displays include measuring instruments (one of the first Belghazis was an astrologist at the Qarawiyin court in Fez), carpets, leather saddles and slippers, jewellery, tools, pottery, embroidery and miniature copies of the Quran.
Plage des NationsBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
The clean, sandy strip of beach at Plage des Nations, 17km north of Rabat, gets some serious wave action that's good for surfers, but the currents can be dangerous for swimming.
To get to the beach, drive north as far as the Musées Belghazi and turn left down a road known as Sidi Bouknadel. Bus 9 from Rabat or Salé will drop you at the turn-off, from where it’s a 2km walk to the beach past huge developments of holiday apartments.
Lac de Sidi BoughabaLAKE
( GOOGLE MAP )
This freshwater lake, part of the Lac Sidi Boughaba Parc National, is located in Mehdia, on the outskirts of industrial Kenitra. As a refuelling stop for thousands of birds migrating between Europe and sub-Saharan Africa, the lake provides some of the country's best birdwatching, especially between October and March. To get to the lake follow the signposts from the beach road to Mehdiya Plage, 300m past the Cafe Restaurant Belle Vue. If you’re on foot, the lake is a 3.3km walk from the turn-off.
More than 200 species of birds have been spotted on the lake and many choose to winter or nest here – among them a number of rare or endangered species. This is one of the last places on earth where you can still see large numbers of marbled ducks, distinguished by the dark patch around their eyes. Other birds to look out for include the beautiful marsh owl (seen most often at dusk), crested coot, black-shouldered kite and greater flamingo.
The lake is also a popular place for gentle hiking, with well-appointed (but rubbish-strewn) walking trails in the forested hills around the lake.
Témara PlageBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
Wild and sandy Témara Plage, 15km southwest of the city, is popular with surfers and sunbathers in summer; there are dangerous rips so swimmers should be cautious. The beach can be reached on bus 33 from Bab al-Had in Rabat.
Moulay Bousselham مولاي بوسلهام
Pop 26,545
Though inundated by holidaymakers in high summer, the small town of Moulay Bousselham is marvellously tranquil for the rest of the year. The sweeping beach, with its golden sand, is one of the most attractive on the North Atlantic coast, although its strong currents and crashing waves can be dangerous. The protected lagoon is one of the country's most important bird habitats, attracting twitchers from across the globe. If you have a car, it's a great place to chill for a few days.
The town is named aft
er a 10th-century Egyptian saint who is commemorated in one of the koubbas that line the slope down to the sea, guarding the mouth of the river. All services – ATMs, shops, a pharmacy, cafes and taxi ranks – are on the main street.
1Sights
Merja Zerga National ParkNATIONAL PARK
One of the great pleasures of Morocco's Atlantic Coast is spending half a day on the calm Merja Zerga (Blue Lagoon) with an expert bird guide. The 73-sq-km Merja Zerga National Park (4 sq km of water and the rest marshland) attracts myriad migrant birds, including wildfowl, waders and flamingos in huge numbers, making it one of Morocco’s prime birdwatching habitats. The best times to visit are September to October and March to April, but there are about 100 species all year-round.
You’ll see herons, flamingos, ibises, the African marsh owl, spoonbills, plovers and egrets. Slender-billed and Audouin’s gulls are regular visitors, as are shelducks, teals, terns, marsh harriers and peregrine falcons.
The lagoon is between 50cm and 4m deep depending on the tide. Ninety percent of the water comes from the sea, 10% is freshwater from the Oued Dredr, south of the lagoon.
There are six villages around the lake, four of which depend on agriculture, two on fishing. Many of the fishers take tourists around the lake as a sideline. Boat trips with the local boaters are easily arranged if you wander down to the small port where boats are moored. Expect to pay about Dh100 per hour for the boat. If possible, contact Khalil Fachkhir or Hassan Dalil in advance for a specialised birding tour; both have their own boats and speak English.