Lonely Planet Morocco

by Lonely Planet

  The town is easy to navigate as it’s stretched along Blvd Mohammed V, which leads from the orange Grande Mosquée in the west to the large roundabout at the other end, dominated by a large orange municipal building. You’ll find the post office and ATMs here, as well as a couple of hotels. Halfway between is the main square, with the CTM station on the south side.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  The main options for sleeping and eating are strung along or near Blvd Mohammed V.

  Hotel RosalinaHOTEL€

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 61 89 92; rosalina_hotel@hotmail.fr; 82 Blvd Mohammed V, Berkane; s/d incl breakfast Dh280/360)

  This modern hotel is pleasant, with lots of wood panelling and friendly staff. There's a cafe on the ground floor. Berkane's best sleeping option by some distance.

  8Getting There & Away

  Berkane’s bus and taxi stands are scattered all over town.

  CTM buses depart from a dedicated station near the main square. Most other long-distance buses gather in the streets behind the CMH petrol station. The buses to Nador (Dh22, one hour) stop immediately behind the petrol station, and run hourly until midafternoon.

  Local buses for Taforalt (Dh8, 30 minutes) depart from Blvd Mohammed V twice a day, while grands taxis for Taforalt (Dh10, 25 minutes) and Nador (Dh30, one hour) use the car park on the opposite side of the road, between the Shell petrol station and the bridge.

  Grands taxis for Oujda (Dh25, one hour) leave from near the bus station; for Saïdia (Dh10, 15 minutes) from the square in front of the municipal building at the end of Blvd Mohammed V; and for Nador from the car park opposite the Great Mosque.

  OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

  BENI-SNASSEN MOUNTAINS جبال بني سناسن

  Inland from the eastern Mediterranean coast, the ruggedly beautiful Beni-Snassen Mountains are for all intents and purposes a national park. This is a verdant area of scenic gorges that few imagine when they think of Morocco, and even fewer visit.

  Using the 'orange' town of Berkane as a base is the best way to explore the Beni-Snassen Mountains. If you don’t have your own vehicle, the easiest way to access the park is to take a shared taxi from Berkane (Dh15). Alternatively, hire your own taxi; the minimum fare will be in the region of Dh250 for two hours, although not all drivers will be willing to take their vehicles along the poor roads near the hamlet of Zegzel. A cheaper alternative is to take a bus or grand taxi to Taforalt and walk down. Two buses each morning make the journey from Berkane (Dh12, 30 minutes), with return services in the afternoons. Grands taxis cost Dh15, and are most frequent on market days (Wednesday and Sunday).

  From Berkane, take the national road to Taforalt (Tafoughalt), which passes through beautiful mountain scenery. Taforalt is a somewhat haphazard settlement that arose around a former French military installation, but the northern end, which you come upon first, contains a charming strip of cafes and restaurants; one of these is Club Taforalt ( GOOGLE MAP ; hApr-Oct). You can stay at the nearby Auberge Taforalt ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0662 04 51 19; www.taforaltclub.com; Taforalt; r incl breakfast Dh350, tent Dh250; W).

  Soon after you enter Taforalt from Berkane, turn left at the post office, then immediately turn left again and follow signs to the Infokiosk, which has a small but informative display on the natural history of the park, and an observation platform with heavenly views of a distant mesa. If you’re lucky you will catch sight of a big-horned Barbary sheep from the adjacent reserve. They generally arrive around 4pm, when it is cooler.

  About 2km back down the national road is a right turn signposted for two grottes (caves). Grottes des Pigeons (1km) is the site of an active excavation by Oxford University and has revealed human remains from the Pleistocene era, including some early human jewellery (80,000 years old).

  Another 5km brings you to Grottes de Chameau, a multistorey cave complex with three entrances that have been closed for years due to flooding damage. Three kilometres further brings you to the pretty Zegzel Gorge and a beautiful serpentine drive. Don’t miss the chance to sample the cumquats, a local industry. Even the Romans remarked upon them.

  The source of the Charaâ River provides a worthwhile detour. Follow signs to the tiny hamlet of Zegzel, 2km up a side road. At the end there’s a popular picnic spot near where the river gushes out of the cliff. Not far from here, a spectacular ridge road cuts east to Oujda. You’ll need a 4WD vehicle, a good map and an early start.

  Oujda وجدة

  Pop 518,000

  Oujda is the largest city in eastern Morocco, with a modern facade that belies its millennium-old age. Despite its heritage, it receives very few foreign travellers. The reason for this is found on the map: it was once the busiest border crossing with Algeria, making it popular with traders and tourists alike. When the border closed in 1995, Oujda's economy took a major hit. However, recent tourism development along the nearby Mediterranean coast, and the consequent rise in importance of the airport, are having a positive knock-on effect. In addition, Oujda's university remains a mainstay of the economy and the city’s intellectual life.

  Despite few attractions, it’s hassle-free so you can catch your breath after heading down from the Rif Mountains or before travelling on to Figuig and the Sahara.

  History

  Oujda lies on the main axis connecting Morocco with the rest of North Africa (the Romans built a road through here). Like Taza, it occupied a key position in controlling the east and was often seen as a vital stepping stone for armies aiming to seize control of the heartland around it.

  Founded by the Meghraoua tribe in the 10th century, Oujda remained independent until the Almohads overran it a century later. Under the Merenids, Algerian rulers based in Tlemcen took the town on several occasions, and in the 17th century it fell under the Ottomans in Algiers.

  Moulay Ismail put an end to this in 1687, and Oujda remained in Moroccan hands until 1907, when French forces in Algeria crossed the frontier and occupied the town in one of a series of similar ‘incidents’. The protectorate was still five years away, but the sultan was powerless to stop it.

  The French soon expanded Oujda, which is still burgeoning as a provincial capital.

  Oujda

  1Sights

  1Bab el-OuahabE2

  2Banque al-MaghribD2

  3Church of St LouisC3

  4Clock TowerD1

  5Grande MosquéeE3

  4Sleeping

  6Atlas Terminus & SpaB2

  7Hôtel AfrahD2

  8Hotel Al ManarC2

  9Hôtel AngadD2

  10Hôtel Ibis MoussafirB2

  11Hotel JedaD1

  12Hôtel TlemcenD2

  5Eating

  13ArganaF3

  14Café Pâtisserie ColombeD2

  15L'ExcellenceD2

  16Restaurant Le Comme Chez SoiC2

  17Restaurant NacionalC3

  18RihabC3

  19TrocaderoC3

  Transport

  20CTM OfficeD2

  21Petits TaxisE2

  22Petits TaxisD2

  23RAMC3

  24Trans Ghazala Ticket OfficeD1

  1Sights

  Although full of new buildings, a few deco structures survive in the side streets of central Oujda. Walking south along Blvd Mohammed V, note the 1930s clock tower ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), and the impressive French neo-Moorish Banque al-Maghrib ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) before arriving at the Church of St Louis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl 9 Juillet; hmass Sat 6.30pm, Sun 9am) with nesting storks on its towers. Ask at the presbytery for access to the church.

  MedinaMEDINA

  Oujda’s medina isn’t large but the walls and several surrounding squares have been rebuilt. Enter through the eastern gate, Bab el-Ouahab ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). It is chock-full of food stalls (Oujda olives are well regarded) and street cafes. Bustling without being overwhelming, it’s a great slice of tradition and modernity.

  Grande MosquéeMOSQUE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  Also known as the Mosque of Omar ben Abdelaziz, this mos
que was built in the early years of the French protectorate in a Mauresque style.

  Parc Lalla AichaPARK

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Yacoub Al-Mansour; h7am-7pm)

  This beautiful park is worth a stroll. There's a swimming pool (summer only, Dh20), a cafe, tennis and horse riding.

  zFestivals & Events

  Oujda is renowned for its music: a cross-cultural mix of Algerian, Andalucian and Moroccan.

  International Gharnati Festival (Jul) Gharnati is Algerian music from Andalucia (the name is derived from Granada) and is particularly renowned in nearby Tlemcen.

  Oujda International Rai Festival (Aug) Rai music developed in Algeria in the 1930s as a form of protest folk music.

  Sidi Yahia Moussem (Aug & Sep) Ben Younes, 6km south of Oujda. Patron saint of the city and venerated by Moroccans, Sidi Yahia is also thought to be John the Baptist or perhaps a Castilian rabbi. Thousands of pilgrims flock to the celebrations 6km south of Oujda. The trees around the shrine (closed to non-Muslims) are festooned with rags, tied to receive blessings – a throwback to pre-Islamic fertility beliefs. To get to Sidi Yahia, take bus 1 (Dh6) from outside Bab el-Ouahab in Oujda or a petit taxi (Dh30).

  4Sleeping

  Hôtel AngadHOTEL€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 69 14 51; hotelangad@hotmail.fr; Rue Tafna; s/d Dh182/224, with air-con Dh223/274; W)

  The top pick of the budget hotels is this affordable two-star hotel. Rooms are basic, with a large bathroom and TV; get a room at the back as streetside can be noisy. The downstairs cafe does breakfast and pizza.

  Hôtel TlemcenHOTEL€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 70 03 84; 26 Rue Ramdane el-Gadhi; s/d Dh90/180; a)

  This friendly little place offers excellent value, and has a grand-looking lobby. Quarters are small but bright, with bathroom and TV.

  Hôtel AfrahHOTEL€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 68 65 33; 15 Rue Tafna; s/d Dh90/140)

  The tiles and plasterwork in the lobby lend some traditional Moroccan flavour here. Self-contained rooms are a bit boxy, but otherwise this is a good budget choice.

  Hôtel Ibis MoussafirHOTEL€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 68 82 02; www.ibishotel.com; Pl de la Gare; s/d Dh640/720; aWs)

  Bang in front of you on the left as you leave the train station, the Ibis has all the up-to-the-minute facilities and comfortable rooms you’d expect from this international hotel chain – you could be anywhere (or nowhere) in the world. Nonguests can use the pool for Dh100 per day.

  Hotel Al ManarHOTEL€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 68 88 55; hotelalmanara@menara.ma; 50 Blvd Zerktouni; s/d Dh360/420; aW)

  Centrally located, the Al Manar is suitably towering for its name, and has functional and practical decor. Rooms are fine value, although avoid the darker, small-windowed interior rooms.

  Hotel JedaHOTEL€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 70 46 46; jeddahotel8@gmail.com; 13 Rue Ouartass; s/d Dh300/400; aW)

  Comfortably competent midrange option just away from the main action, with a pleasant ice-cream and pizza place out front.

  Atlas Terminus & SpaHOTEL€€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 71 10 10; www.hotelsatlas.com; Pl de la Gare; s/d incl breakfast Dh1380/1570; aWs)

  Sitting imperially next to the train station, the Atlas Terminus is very grand. Rooms and service are the best quality, with three restaurants, a bar and nightclub, a pool and a spa.

  5Eating

  There's a rash of new, modern cafes, and many serve good food. In the medina, the stalls inside Bab el-Ouahab offer more traditional fare, including kefta, bowls of harira and boiled snails.

  oRestaurant NacionalMOROCCAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 70 32 57; 107 Blvd Allal ben Abdallah; meals from Dh25; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm)

  This is a Oujda institution: people queue for tables at lunchtime (there’s a big, packed salon upstairs). Salads are great, and waiters rush with plates of grilled meat, fried fish and tajines, and there's couscous on Fridays.

  TrocaderoCAFE, ITALIAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 71 Blvd Allal Ben Abdellah Al Mahatta; mains Dh40-120; h8am-10pm; W)

  One of the new black, glass and chrome cafes, Trocadero has two floors and a pavement area. The food is excellent: try the chicken florentina or risotto.

  L'ExcellenceCAFE, ITALIAN€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 71 28 18; 30 Blvd Mohammed V; pizza from Dh40; h8am-10pm)

  A large, modern cafe over two floors with an excellent patisserie around the corner and a pizza restaurant upstairs.

  Café Pâtisserie ColombeCAFE€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V; croissants Dh2; h8am-10pm)

  One of several popular and busy cafes along this stretch, this perennially busy place is particularly good for breakfast and people-watching.

  ArganaCAFE€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Sidi Abdel Ouahab; tajines Dh25; h9am-9pm)

  Join lots of Moroccan families and take the lift to this large, plant-filled cafe overlooking the square. There's (very loud) live music at night.

  La Belle d'OrientSEAFOOD€€

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 70 59 61; 65 Blvd Ahfir; mains from Dh75; hlunch)

  An excellent choice if you're in the mood for fish fresh from the coast. Sardines are grilled on the barbecue outside, there's a fish tagine (Dh100) or a platter of poisson friture (Dh75). Pizzas are also available.

  Restaurant Le Comme Chez SoiFRENCH€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 68 60 79; 8 Rue Sijilmassa; mains around Dh110; hnoon-3pm & 7pm-midnight)

  This licensed restaurant has a French-influenced menu, with some good meat and fish dishes, plus a smattering of pastas and steaks.

  RihabCAFE, ITALIAN€€

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 70 51 51; cnr Blvds Idriss Al-Akbar & Allal ben Abdallah; mains from Dh95; h8am-11pm; W)

  The ground and 1st floors are a swish, modern cafe, ice-cream parlour and excellent boulangerie, while on the 8th floor there's a good restaurant with a wide range of fish and Italian dishes.

  8Information

  There are numerous banks with ATMs and bureaux de change located along Blvd Mohammed V.

  Delegation Provinciale du Tourisme ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pl du 16 Aout; h9am-4pm Mon-Thu, 9am-noon Fri) As usual, this is just an administrative office, but it does have a good map of the city.

  Hôpital el-Farabi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 68 27 05; Ave Idriss el-Akbar)

  Internet ( GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V; per hr Dh5; h9am-10pm) Above the téléboutique.

  Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V; h8am-4pm)

  Maroc Voyages ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 68 39 93; 110 Blvd Allal ben Abdallah; h9am-6pm Mon-Thu, 9am-noon Fri & Sat)

  Pharmacie Mouslim ( GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V; h8am-6pm)

  Police Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed Derfoufi)

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Oujda-Angad Airport is 15km north of the town off the road to Saïdia. Grand-taxi fares are set at Dh150, but any bus to Nador, Berkane or Saïdia can drop you on the main road for a few dirham.

  RAM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 68 39 09; 45 Blvd Mohammed V) has two (sometimes three) daily flights to Casablanca and direct flights to Paris Orly. Ryanair operates flights to Paris, Brussels, Marseille and Düsseldorf. EasyJet, Transavia, Jetairfly and Air Arabia all have flights to Paris.

  Bus

  The main bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ) sits in the shadow of the huge Mohammed VI Mosque. CTM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 68 20 47; Rue Sidi Brahim) has an office just off Pl du 16 Août selling tickets to Casablanca (Dh210, nine hours overnight), Taza (Dh80, 3½ hours), Fez (Dh120, five hours), Meknès (Dh130, six hours), Rabat (Dh180, 7½ hours); and Tangier (Dh200, 11 hours) also via Taza, Fez and Meknès. There is also a service every other day to Figuig (Dh110, six hours).

  Trans Ghazala runs several daily services to Casablanca via Taza, Fez, Meknès and Rabat. You also can buy tickets for these services at the Trans Ghazala ticket of
fice ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536 68 53 87; Rue Sidi Brahim).

  Numerous other companies with ticket offices in the bus station offer frequent departures for Taza, Fez and Meknès as well as Berkane (Dh18, 20 minutes) and Nador (Dh35, three hours). There are two daily buses to Figuig (Dh95, seven hours). There are also several buses a day to Saïdia (Dh15, one hour) and Al-Hoceima (Dh80, six hours). There are also two daily buses to Tangier via Tetouan

  Taxi

  Grands taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ) leave regularly from the main bus station to Taza (Dh80, three hours). Change here for onward connections. Grands taxis heading north to Nador (Dh60, three hours), Saïdia (Dh25, one hour) and Berkane (Dh25, one hour) congregate north of town near the junction of Rue ibn Abdelmalek and Blvd Mohammed Derfoufi.

  Train

  Oujda is the terminus of the northern branch of the Moroccan train line.

  Oujda's train station is at the west end of Blvd Zerktouni. Four trains leave daily for Casablanca (Dh216, 10 hours) and four for Tangier (two via Sidi Kacem, Dh22, 10 hours). All stop at Taza (Dh78, 3½ hours), Fez (Dh1116, six hours) and Meknès (Dh137, 6½ hours).

  8Getting Around

  Red petits taxis are plentiful in Oujda. You're unlikely to pay more than Dh10 for any ride.

  Fez, Meknès and the Middle Atlas

  Fez, Meknes & Middle Atlas Highlights