Lonely Planet Morocco

by Lonely Planet

  Australia, New Zealand and Ireland do not have embassies in Morocco.

  ETIQUETTE

  Morocco is a famously tolerant country, but following a few rules of etiquette will make your travels smoother and avoid embarrassment.

  AGreetings are formal. Handshakes are followed by lightly touching your heart with your right hand. Men should wait for Moroccan women to offer handshakes.

  ABoth sexes should dress to cover their shoulders. Outside the cities, where people are more conservative, above-the-knees shorts may be seen as inappropriate.

  AThe left hand is considered unclean as it's used for toilet duties. Don't handle food with your left hand, particularly if eating from a communal dish such as a tajine.

  Gay & Lesbian Travellers

  AHomosexual acts (including kissing) are illegal in Morocco, and carry a potential jail term of up to three years and/or a fine. Moroccan authorities have recently shown an increased tendency to prosecute.

  AIn practice, although not openly admitted or shown, sex between men is not uncommon, even if few people actively self-identify as gay.

  APlatonic affection is freely shown among Moroccans, more so between men than women.

  AFor travellers, discretion is the key in most places. Avoid public displays of affection.

  ABe extremely circumspect about using using social media apps to make contact with local gay men. There have been several instances of robbery and assault in recent years.

  ASome towns are more gay-friendly than others, with Marrakesh winning the prize, followed by Tangier. However, there are are no dedicated gay destinations; nightlife in the bigger cities has become increasingly discreet in recent years.

  AThe pressures of poverty mean many young men will consider having sex for money or gifts. Exploitative relationships form an unpleasant but real dimension of the Moroccan gay scene.

  ALesbians shouldn’t encounter any problems, though it’s commonly believed by Moroccans that there are no lesbians in their country.

  Insurance

  A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss and, in particular, medical problems is strongly recommended for all visitors to Morocco.

  Activities Some policies specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’, which can include scuba diving, motorcycling, skiing and even trekking, so ensure your policy covers these if needed.

  Driving Make sure you have adequate travel medical insurance and any relevant car insurance if you’re driving.

  Extensions If you need to extend your cover on the road, do so before it expires or a more expensive premium may apply.

  Flights Paying for your airline ticket with a credit card often provides some travel-accident insurance, but take note of exclusions. You may be able to reclaim the payment if the operator doesn’t deliver.

  Purchase Buy travel insurance as early as possible. Buying just before you leave home may mean you’re not covered for delays to your flight caused by strike action that began, or was threatened, before you took out the insurance.

  Online insurance Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online any time – even if you’re already on the road.

  Internet Access

  AMoroccan internet cafes are common, efficient and cheap (Dh5 to Dh10 per hour), usually with reasonable connection speeds.

  ATwo irritants for many travellers are the widespread French and Arabic (nonqwerty) keyboards, and Moroccan men’s common use of internet cafes to view pornographic websites and similar.

  AWi-fi is widely available in midrange and top-end accommodation and in many of the better budget options. It is slowly becoming more widespread in destinations that host lots of foreigners.

  AIf you’re bringing a laptop, check the power-supply voltage and bring a universal adapter. USB modems are widely available from mobile-phone shops, and cost around Dh100 for one month's internet access. Buy them at a phone shop from Maroc Telecom, Meditel or Inwi (ID is required – take your passport).

  Language Courses

  There are courses in Arabic – both modern standard and Moroccan (Darija) – in most major towns in Morocco, with a high concentration in Fez, Rabat and Casablanca, where long- and short-term programs are offered.

  Arabophon has intensive Moroccan and Modern Standard Arabic courses. Shorter courses are aimed at travellers: the half-day Curious Explorer and three-day Serious Explorer. There are also courses in Tamazight Berber. Lessons are offered in English, French and Spanish.

  Jeunesse des Chantiers Marocains (http://perso.menara.ma/youthcamps) offers language and cultural-immersion programs in Marrakesh.

  Legal Matters

  Drugs Moroccan law prohibits the possession, offer, sale, purchase, distribution and transportation of cannabis (known locally as kif). The penalties for possessing even small amounts of drugs are severe, and include up to 10 years’ imprisonment, with no remission for good behaviour, heavy fines and confiscation of your vehicle or vessel. Acquittals in drugs cases are rare.

  Help & advice If you get into trouble, your first call should be to your embassy or consulate; remember that it’s not unknown for local police to be in on scams. The London-based Fair Trials International (www.fairtrials.net) provides legal assistance and advocacy to individuals facing criminal charges in a foreign country.

  Police If you get arrested by the Moroccan police, you won’t have much of a legal leg to stand on. It’s unlikely that any interpreter on hand will be of sufficient standard to translate an accurate statement that will, nonetheless, play a vital part in subsequent judicial proceedings. According to some human-rights groups, physical abuse while in custody is not unknown.

  Maps

  Few decent maps of Morocco are available in the country itself, so get one before leaving home.

  Michelin’s No 742 (formerly No 959) map of Morocco is arguably the best. It has the following features:

  AThe 1:4,000,000 scale map of the whole country includes the disputed Western Sahara.

  AFeatures a 1:1,000,000 enlargement of Morocco.

  AFeatures 1:600,000 enlargements of Marrakesh and the High Atlas, Middle Atlas and Fez areas.

  AShows sites of weekly markets, kasbahs and marabouts (holy mausoleums of local saints).

  ANotes particularly scenic roads.

  AAvailable in major Moroccan cities.

  The GeoCenter World Map Morocco is preferred by many and has similar, often clearer, detail. Features:

  AShows Morocco at a handy 1:800,000 scale (and the Western Sahara at 1:2,500,000).

  AOccasionally available in Morocco.

  Additionally, several maps include Morocco as part of northwestern Africa. An overlanding classic, Michelin’s No 741 (formerly Nos 953 and 153) map covers all of west Africa and most of the Sahara. It has a scale of 1:4,000,000.

  Soviet survey maps of Morocco, with scales ranging from 1:100,000 to 1:1,000,000, are available online and at good map shops worldwide. They often have to be ordered and can take up to six weeks to arrive.

  Money

  The Moroccan currency is the dirham (Dh), which is divided into 100 centimes. You might also occasionally hear older people give prices in rials – an old unofficial usage, whereby one dirham equals 20 rials.

  You will find notes in denominations of Dh20, Dh50, Dh100 and Dh200. Coins come in denominations of Dh1, Dh2, Dh5 and Dh10, as well as, less frequently, 10, 20 and 50 centimes. Break big notes whenever possible. Moroccans guard their small change jealously (taxi drivers never seem to have any), and so should you. The Dh20 note is the most useful note in your wallet.

  The dirham is a restricted currency, meaning that it cannot be taken out of the country and is not available abroad. The dirham is fairly stable, with no major fluctuations in exchange rates. Euros, US dollars and British pounds are the most easily exchanged currencies.

  ATMs

  AATMs (guichets automatiques) are the easiest way to access your money in Morocco.

&nbs
p; AA common sight even in the smallest towns, virtually all accept Visa, MasterCard, Electron, Cirrus, Maestro and InterBank cards. Most banks charge you for withdrawing money from foreign cash machines; check before travelling.

  ABMCE (Banque Marocaine du Commerce Extérieur), Banque Populaire, BMCI (Banque Marocaine pour le Commerce et l’Industrie), Société Générale and Attijariwafa Bank all offer reliable service.

  AThe amount of money you can withdraw from an ATM generally depends on the conditions attached to your card; machines will dispense no more than Dh2000 at a time.

  BARGAINING

  Bargaining or haggling is part and parcel of the Moroccan experience, especially for tourist goods and services. If you want to avoid this, many tourist shops have fixed prices.

  Black Market

  The easy convertibility of the dirham leaves little room for a black market, but you’ll find people in the streets asking if you want to exchange money, especially in Tangier, Casablanca and on the borders of (and just inside) the enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla. Avoid these characters; there’s no monetary benefit to be had from such transactions and scams are common.

  Cash

  You’ll need to carry some cash with you. Many riads accept payment in euros, but often at less preferential rates than you can get at the bank.

  AKeep a handful of small denomination notes in your wallet, or just in a pocket (but never a back pocket), for day-to-day transactions.

  APut the rest in a money belt or another safe place.

  AIf you’re travelling in out-of-the-way places, make sure you have enough cash to last until you get to a decent-sized town.

  AKeep a small stash of euros in case of emergency.

  AThe endless supply of small coins may be annoying, but they’re handy for taxis, tips, guides and beggars.

  Credit Cards

  AMajor credit cards are widely accepted in the main tourist centres.

  AThey often attract a surcharge of up to 5% from Moroccan businesses.

  AThe main credit cards are MasterCard and Visa; if you plan to rely on plastic cards, the best bet is to take one of each.

  AMany large bank branches will give you cash advances on Visa and MasterCard. Take your passport with you.

  Money Changers

  AAny amount of foreign currency may be brought into the country.

  AIt is illegal to import and export dirham.

  ABanks and exchange bureaus change most currencies, but Australian, Canadian and New Zealand dollars are often not accepted. You'll occasionally be asked for ID when changing money.

  AMoroccan banking services are reasonably quick and efficient.

  ARates vary little from bank to bank, although it doesn’t hurt to look around.

  AHang on to all exchange receipts. They show you changed money legally, and you’ll need them to convert leftover dirham at most Moroccan banks and bureaux de change.

  Ceuta & Melilla

  AIn the Spanish enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla the currency is the euro.

  AThe Moroccan banks on the enclaves’ borders exchange cash only.

  ABanks in Ceuta and Melilla deal in dirham, but at rates inferior to those in Morocco.

  TAXES & REFUNDS

  Value-added tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax levied on most goods and services. Some purchases may be eligible for tax refunds when presented with a receipt; this service is available at Casablanca and Marrakesh airports only.

  Tipping

  ATipping is an integral part of Moroccan life; almost any service can warrant a tip. Baksheesh, frequently taken to mean a bribe, generally means money paid for a service rendered, and can include tipping.

  ADon’t be railroaded, but the judicious distribution of a few dirham for a service willingly rendered can make your life a lot easier.

  ABear in mind that unskilled workers in Morocco earn less than Dh100 per day.

  Tipping in Morocco

  Service Tip

  Baggage handlers Dh5

  Cafe Dh2

  Car-park attendants Dh3-5; Dh10 for overnight parking

  Porters Dh10-20

  Public-toilet attendants Dh1-2

  Restaurant 10%

  Travellers Cheques

  ATravellers cheques are not recommended in Morocco – even large city banks often do not accept them.

  AIf you want to carry some anyway, as a fallback in the event of theft, American Express (Amex), Visa and Thomas Cook cheques are the most useful, and have efficient replacement policies.

  AKeeping a record of the cheque numbers and those you have used is vital when it comes to replacing lost travellers cheques.

  AMake sure you keep this record separate from the cheques.

  AAlmost all banks charge commission on travellers cheques. Normally the commission is around Dh10 to Dh20 per cheque; check before changing.

  Opening Hours

  Although it's a Muslim country, for business purposes, Morocco follows the Monday to Friday working week. Friday is the main prayer day, however, so many businesses take an extended lunch break on Friday afternoon. During Ramadan the rhythm of the country changes, and office hours shift to around 10am to 3pm or 4pm.

  Hours often vary between medinas and villes nouvelles (new towns): most businesses close on Sundays in villes nouvelles, whereas those in medinas usually open continuously from about 9am to 7pm except on Fridays.

  Medina souqs and produce markets in the villes nouvelles of the bigger cities tend to wind down on Thursday afternoon and are usually empty on Friday. Business hours are highly variable for cafes and snack stands, which can be both seasonal and subject to to the owner's mood.

  Souqs in small villages start early and generally wind down before the onset of the afternoon heat.

  In cities, pharmacies open all night on a rotating basis. All pharmacies should have a list in their window of that week’s night pharmacies.

  In the main tourist cities, bureaux de change (foreign-exchange bureaus) often open until 8pm and over the weekend.

  Téléboutiques (private telephone offices) and internet cafes often stay open late into the night, especially in cities.

  Morocco keeps the Western working week, but some businesses may close early/completely on the Muslim prayer day or Friday. Exact opening hours may vary.

  Banks 8.30am to 6.30pm Monday to Friday

  Bars 4pm till late

  Government offices 8.30am to 6.30pm Monday to Friday

  Post offices 8.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday

  Restaurants noon to 3pm and 7pm to 10pm (cafes generally open earlier and close later)

  Shops 9am to 12.30pm and 2.30pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday (often closed longer at noon for prayer)

  TRAVEL DURING RAMADAN

  Ramadan Mubarak! (Happy Ramadan!) Ramadan is a lunar month dedicated to sawm (fasting) – from sun-up to sundown, the faithful abstain from food, drink, tobacco and sex to concentrate on spiritual renewal – and zakat (charity).

  Many businesses operate with limited hours and staff, so try to book accommodation, transport and tours in advance. Call offices to ensure someone will be there. Most restaurants close by day; pack lunches or reserve at tourist restaurants. Stores often close in the afternoon; bargaining is better before thirst is felt in the midday heat. For the next few years from 2017, Ramadan falls in the summer, so be prepared for long, hot days.

  Sunset streets fill with Ramadan finery, light displays, music, tantalising aromas and offers of sweets. After an iftar (fast-breaking meal) of dates, soup or savoury snacks, people gobble sweets until the late-night feast. More visits and sweets follow, then sleep, and an early rise for the sahur (meal before the sunrise).

  Tourists are exempt from fasting; it’s hard enough at home under controlled conditions. To show support, avoid eating, drinking or smoking in public, and grant people privacy at prayer times. Taxi drivers don't appreciate being flagged down minutes before the evening call to prayer announcing iftar.

  When a new friend offers you sweet
s or invites you to a feast, you honour by accepting; refusal is crushing. You’re not obliged to return the favour or eat the sweets; reciprocate the zakat by giving to a local charity perhaps.

  Photography

  AMorocco is a photographer’s dream, but never point your camera at anything that’s vaguely military or could be construed as ‘strategic’. This includes airports, bridges, government buildings and members of the police or armed forces.

  AHide your camera when going through checkpoints in and near the Western Sahara.

  AIt is common courtesy to ask permission before taking photographs of people. Urban Moroccans are generally easygoing about it. Women, older people and rural folk often don’t want to be photographed. Respect their right to privacy and don’t take photos.

  AMemory cards and batteries for digital cameras are quite easy to find in photography shops in major cities (especially Marrakesh and Casablanca).

  AA USB memory stick is useful for backing up photos, but most internet cafes can burn you a CD if needed.

  ACamera film is increasingly hard to find. If you buy film in Morocco, check expiry dates.

  AProfessional photo labs offer the most professional processing services.

  ALonely Planet’s Travel Photography provides comprehensive advice on taking terrific photos when you’re on the road.

  Post

  AOffices of Poste Maroc (www.poste.ma) are distinguished by a yellow ‘PTT’ sign or the ‘La Poste’ logo.