Lonely Planet Morocco

by Lonely Planet

  Train

  Morocco’s excellent train network is one of Africa’s best, linking most of the main centres. Trains are reasonably priced, and preferable to buses where available. Trains are comfortable, fast and generally run to their timetables. The ONCF (Office National des Chemins de Fer; www.oncf.ma) runs the network.

  AThere are two main lines: Tangier down to Marrakesh via Rabat and Casablanca; and Oujda or Nador in the northeast down to Marrakesh, passing Fez and Meknès before joining the line from Tangier at Sidi Kacem.

  AA high-speed (TGV) line to link Tangier, Rabat and Casablanca is under construction and due to open in July 2018. When finished, the travel time between Tangier and Casablanca will be reduced from five hours to just over two hours, with trains travelling at 320km/h. For more information see www.tgvmaroc.ma.

  AAlso operated by ONCF, Supratours buses link many destinations to the train network.

  ATrains are particularly convenient around Casablanca and Rabat, with services leaving every 30 minutes between the two cities.

  AThe overnight Tangier–Marrakesh and Oujda–Casablanca trains have sleeping cars.

  Classes & Costs

  There are two types of train, and the main difference between the two is comfort, rather than speed:

  ARapide (Train Rapide Climatisé, TCR) – standard for intercity services.

  AOrdinaire (Train Navette Rapide, TNR) – less comfortable, without air-conditioning, apart from the double-decker TNR Rabat–Casablanca shuttle. Mostly late-night and local services.

  Additional information:

  APrices given here are for rapide trains (ordinaire trains are around 30% cheaper).

  AFirst- and 2nd-class fares are available, with six seats in 1st-class compartments and eight in 2nd class.

  AFirst-class tickets include a reserved seat, while in 2nd class you just sit in an empty seat.

  ASecond class is more than adequate on short journeys. For longer trips, the extra for 1st class is worth paying.

  AShuttle services operate regularly between Kenitra, Rabat, Casablanca and Mohammed V International Airport, and they supplement the rapide services on this line.

  Sample 2nd-class fares:

  ACasablanca to Marrakesh (Dh95, three hours)

  ARabat to Fez (Dh85, 2 ½ hours)

  ATangier to Marrakesh (Dh216, 9½ hours)

  Additional information:

  AAll journeys in sleeping cars cost Dh370 in a four-bed couchette, and Dh480/690 for a single/double compartment.

  AChildren aged under four travel free.

  AChildren between four and 12 years get a discount (normally 50%, less in a few cases including sleeping cars).

  AAt weekends travellers get a 25% discount on return trips, on major-line trains.

  Stations & Timetables

  AStations aren’t usually well signposted and announcements (in both French and Arabic) are frequently inaudible, so keep an eye out for your stop.

  AMost stations are located in the ville nouvelle. In cities such as Tangier, Marrakesh, Fez and Rabat, the main stations are sleek affairs with free wi-fi and decent restaurants.

  AStations usually have left-luggage depots, which only accept luggage that can be locked.

  ACheck on the ONCF website (www.oncf.ma) for times and prices.

  Tickets

  ABuy tickets at the station, as a supplement is charged for buying tickets on the train. Automatic ticket machines are becoming more widespread at stations.

  ABuy your ticket the day before you want to travel if possible, particularly if you want to travel 1st class. Second-class seats cannot be reserved. First-class tickets can be bought up to a month before travel – advisable if travelling during major holidays, and for sleeper services.

  AInspectors check tickets on the trains.

  Train Passes

  Rail Pass This is available for seven/15/30 days (Dh600/1170/2100 to travel in 2nd class, Dh900/1600/3150 for 1st class). Pass prices drop for travellers aged under 26, and again for those under 12 years.

  Carte Chahab (six months, Dh265) If you’re under 26, this offers 25% to 50% discounts.

  Carte Hikma (six months, Dh105) For those aged over 60, this offers 25% to 50% discounts.

  Carte Ousraty (one year, Dh50 per person) For families, this offers 10% to 25% on group tickets.

  Health

  Before You Go

  In Morocco

  Health

  Prevention is the key to staying healthy in Morocco, and a little planning before departure will save you trouble later. With luck, your worst complaint on your trip will be a bad stomach; infections are usually associated with poor living conditions and poverty, and can be avoided with a few precautions. Car accidents are a common reason for travellers to need medical help. Medical facilities can be excellent in large cities, but in more remote areas may be basic.

  Before You Go

  Insurance

  AAdequate health insurance is vital when travelling to Morocco. The national health service isn’t always great and the few good private hospitals are expensive.

  AYou may prefer a policy that pays the medical facility directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later, although in practice most Moroccan doctors and hospitals insist on payment up front.

  AIf you have to claim later, make sure you keep all documentation.

  ACarry proof of your insurance with you; this can be vital for avoiding any delays to treatment in emergency situations.

  ASome policies ask you to call (reverse charge) a centre in your home country, which makes an immediate assessment of your problem; keep your insurer’s emergency telephone number on you.

  AFind out which private medical service your insurer uses in Morocco so that you can call them direct in the event of an emergency.

  AYour policy should ideally cover emergency air evacuation home, or transport by plane or ambulance to a hospital in a major city, which may be essential for serious problems.

  ASome policies offer lower and higher medical-expense options; the higher ones are chiefly for countries such as the USA, which have extremely high medical costs.

  RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS

  Although no specific vaccinations are required for Morocco, America’s Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) suggests the following as routine:

  Adiphtheria

  Atetanus

  Ameasles

  Amumps

  Arubella

  Apolio

  The CDC also suggests the following for Morocco:

  Ahepatitis A and B

  Atyphoid

  Arabies

  Don’t leave health matters until the last minute: some vaccines don’t ensure immunity for two weeks, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before departure.

  Before leaving home, ensure that all your routine vaccination cover is complete. Ask your doctor for an international certificate of vaccination, listing all the vaccinations you’ve received.

  Medical Checklist

  Consider packing the following items in your medical kit:

  Aantibiotics (if travelling off the beaten track)

  Aantibacterial hand gel

  Aantidiarrhoeal drugs (eg loperamide)

  Aparacetamol or aspirin

  Aanti-inflammatory drugs (eg ibuprofen)

  Aantihistamines (for hay fever and allergic reactions)

  Aantibacterial ointment (eg Bactroban) for cuts and abrasions

  Asteroid cream or cortisone (for allergic rashes)

  Abandages, gauze and gauze rolls

  Aadhesive or paper tape

  Ascissors, safety pins and tweezers

  Athermometer

  Apocket knife

  ADEET-containing insect repellent

  Ainsect spray for clothing, tents and bed nets

  Asun block

  Aoral rehydration salts (eg Dioralyte)

  Aiodine or other water-purification tablets

  Asyringes and sterile needles (if tra
velling to remote areas)

  Bring medications in their original, clearly labelled containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including generic names, is also helpful. If carrying syringes or needles, ensure you have a physician’s letter documenting their medical necessity. See your dentist before a long trip; carry a spare pair of contact lenses and glasses (and take your optical prescription with you).

  Other Preparations

  Those heading to very remote areas may like to do a first-aid course, such as those offered by the American Red Cross and St John’s Ambulance. Particularly if you’re going trekking, you could take a wilderness medical training course, such as that offered by the Royal Geographical Society (www.rgs.org).

  Websites

  Useful to consult prior to departure:

  CDC (www.cdc.gov/travel) US government website.

  Health Canada (http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/hl-vs/travel-voyage/index-eng.php) Canadian government website.

  International Association for Medical Advice to Travellers (www.iamat.org) Gives access to its online database of doctors with recognised training.

  NHS (www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk) UK government website.

  Smarttraveller (www.smartraveller.gov.au) Australian government website.

  WHO (www.who.int/ith)

  FURTHER READING

  International Travel Health Guide by Stuart Rose MD

  The Travellers’ Good Health Guide by Ted Lankester

  Travellers’ Health by Dr Richard Dawood

  In Morocco

  Availability & Cost of Health Care

  Primary medical care is not always readily available outside major cities and towns. Your hotel may be able to recommend the nearest source of medical help, and embassy websites sometimes list doctors and clinics. In an emergency, contact your embassy or consulate.

  Pharmacies These are generally well stocked, and pharmacists can provide advice (usually in French) covering common travellers’ complaints. They can sell over-the-counter medication, often including drugs only available on prescription at home, and advise when more specialised help is needed. Double-check any unfamiliar purchases; readers have reported receiving incorrect and potentially dangerous medication for their conditions.

  Doctors and clinics If you are being treated by a doctor or at a clinic, particularly outside the major cities, you will often be expected to purchase medical supplies on the spot – even including sterile dressings or intravenous fluids.

  Dental care Standards are variable – Marrakshi street dentists around the Djemaa el-Fna aren’t recommended! Travel insurance doesn’t usually cover dental work other than emergency treatment.

  Infectious Diseases

  Hepatitis A

  Spreads Through contaminated food (particularly shellfish) and water.

  Symptoms and effects Jaundice, dark urine, a yellow colour to the whites of the eyes, fever and abdominal pain. Although rarely fatal, it can cause prolonged lethargy and delayed recovery.

  Prevention Vaccine (Avaxim, VAQTA, Havrix) is given as an injection, with a booster extending the protection offered. Hepatitis A and typhoid vaccines can also be given as a combined single-dose vaccine (hepatyrix or viatim).

  Hepatitis B

  Spreads Through infected blood, contaminated needles and sexual intercourse.

  Symptoms and effects Jaundice and liver problems (occasionally failure).

  Prevention Travellers should make this a routine vaccination, although Morocco gives hepatitis B vaccination as part of routine childhood vaccination. It is given singly, or at the same time as hepatitis A.

  HIV & AIDS

  Morocco has an HIV infection rate of 0.15%, primarily among men who have sex with men, sex workers and intravenous drug users.

  Spreads Through infected blood and blood products; sexual intercourse with an infected partner; ‘blood to blood’ contacts, such as through contaminated instruments during medical, dental, acupuncture and other body-piercing procedures, or sharing used intravenous needles.

  Leishmaniasis

  Spreads Through the bite of an infected sandfly or dog. It may be found in rural areas in the Atlas Mountains, where sandflies are more prevalent between June and October.

  Symptoms and effects Slowly growing skin lump or sores. It may develop into a serious, life-threatening fever, usually accompanied by anaemia and weight loss.

  Prevention and treatment Avoid sandfly bites. There is no vaccine, but treatment with an antimonial drug such as Glucantime or Pentostam is straightforward, usually involving an injection.

  Rabies

  Spreads Through bites or licks on broken skin from an infected animal. Rabies is endemic to Morocco.

  Symptoms and effects Initial symptoms are pain or tingling at the site of the bite with fever, loss of appetite and headache. If untreated, both ‘furious’ and less-common ‘dumb’ rabies are fatal.

  Prevention and treatment People travelling to remote areas, where a reliable source of post-bite vaccine is not available within 24 hours, should be vaccinated. Any bite, scratch or lick from a warm-blooded, furry animal should immediately be thoroughly cleaned. If you have not been vaccinated and you get bitten, you will need a course of injections starting as soon as possible after the injury. Vaccination does not provide immunity, it merely buys you more time to seek medical help.

  Tuberculosis

  Spreads Through close respiratory contact and, occasionally, infected milk or milk products.

  Symptoms and effects Can be asymptomatic, although symptoms can include a cough, weight loss or fever months or even years after exposure. An X-ray is the best way to confirm if you have tuberculosis.

  Prevention BCG vaccine is recommended for those mixing closely with the local population, whether visiting family, planning a long stay, or working as a teacher or health-care worker. As it’s a live vaccine it should not be given to pregnant women or immuno-compromised individuals.

  Typhoid

  Spreads Through food or water that has been contaminated by infected human faeces.

  Symptoms and effects Initially, usually fever or a pink rash on the abdomen. Septicaemia (blood poisoning) may also occur.

  Prevention Typhim Vi or typherix vaccine. In some countries, the oral vaccine Vivotif is also available.

  Yellow Fever

  A yellow fever certificate (proof of vaccination) is not required for entry to Morocco

  Traveller’s Diarrhoea

  Causes Strains of travel – unfamiliar food, heat, long days and erratic sleeping patterns – can all make your body more susceptible to an upset stomach.

  Prevention Water is generally safe to drink in cities, but elsewhere you should only drink treated water. Eat fresh fruits or vegetables only if they are cooked or if you have washed or peeled them yourself. Buffet meals, which may have been kept sitting warm for some time, can be risky; food should be piping hot. Meals freshly cooked in front of you (like much street food) or served in a busy restaurant are more likely to be safe. Be sensible, but not paranoid: food is one of the treats of visiting Morocco, so don’t miss out.

  Hygiene Pay close attention to personal hygiene. Many Moroccan meals are eaten with the hand, so always wash before eating and after using the toilet. Even the smallest restaurant will have a sink, but soap is less common, especially at cheap hotels. Antibacterial hand gel, which cleans without needing water, is useful.

  Treatment Drink plenty of fluids, and preferably an oral rehydration solution; pharmacies stock these inexpensive sels de réhydration orale. Avoid fatty food and dairy products. A few loose stools don’t require treatment, but if you start having more than four or five a day, take an antibiotic (usually a quinolone drug) and an antidiarrhoeal agent (such as loperamide). If diarrhoea is bloody, persists for more than 72 hours, and is accompanied by fever, shaking chills or severe abdominal pain, seek medical attention.

  Environmental Hazard

  Altitude Sickness
<
br />   Causes Lack of oxygen at high altitudes (over 2500m) affects most people to some extent. The effect may be mild or severe, and occurs because less oxygen reaches the muscles and the brain at high altitudes, requiring the heart and lungs to compensate by working harder. There is no hard-and-fast rule as to what is too high: Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) has been fatal at 3000m, although 3500m to 4500m is the usual range.

  Symptoms and effects Symptoms of AMS usually (but not always) develop during the first 24 hours at altitude. Mild symptoms include headache, lethargy, dizziness, difficulty sleeping and loss of appetite. Potentially fatal, AMS may become more severe without warning. Severe symptoms include breathlessness, a dry, irritative cough (which may progress to the production of pink, frothy sputum), severe headache, lack of coordination, confusion, irrational behaviour, vomiting, drowsiness and unconsciousness.

  Prevention If trekking, build time into your schedule to acclimatise, and ensure your guide knows how to recognise and deal with altitude sickness. Morocco’s most popular trek, to Jebel Toubkal, reaches the 4167m summit relatively quickly, so many people may suffer even mildly. The longer treks in the M’Goun Massif also reach heights of around 4000m. Treks in the Rif Mountains and Jebel Sarhro are considerably lower, so don’t carry the same risks.

  Treatment Treat mild symptoms by resting at the same altitude until recovery, or preferably descend – even 500m can help. Take paracetamol or aspirin for headaches. If symptoms persist or become worse, immediate descent is necessary. Drug treatments should never be used to avoid descent or to enable further ascent. Diamox (acetazolamide) reduces the headache of AMS and helps the body acclimatise to the lack of oxygen. It is only available on prescription, and those who are allergic to sulfonamide antibiotics may also be allergic to Diamox.