Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
Page 73
Sofia 30 7-8hr several daily
Sozopol 5 40min every 45min
Sunny Beach (Slânchev Bryag) 6 45min every 30-40min
Tsarevo 10 2hr several daily
Varna 14 2hr every 30-40min
Train
The historic train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %information 056-845 022; www.bdz.bg; ul Ivan Vazov; hinformation office 6am-10pm), sporting a fresh coat of paint, was built in 1902. There are clearly marked ticket windows for buying both domestic and international tickets. There's also an ATM and a cafe.
Destination Cost (lv) Duration (hr) Frequency (daily)
Kazanlâk 12 3 2
Plovdiv 16 5-6 5
Sliven 8 1¾ 4
Sofia 21 7-8 5
Stara Zagora 11 3 4
WORTH A TRIP
BIRDING IN THE BURGAS LAKES
Four lakes surrounding Burgas (Pomoriysko, Atanasovsko, Mandrensko and Burgasko) comprise 9500 hectares and represent the largest wetland system in Bulgaria. The area is home to some 260 bird species, nearly 70% of the country’s total.
The Poda Conservation Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %056-500 560; www.bspb-poda.de; adult/child 5/2 lv; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar; g17), about 8km south of Burgas, was established in 1998 to protect the habitat and offers visitors an excellent chance to spot numerous scarce and endangered birds.
Also boasting a signposted 2.5km ecotrail, the conservation centre lies at the westernmost point of the Black Sea and along a key bird migration route. Late August and September sees the highest numbers of migrating birds, but each part of the year brings something different; key species include Dalmatian pelicans, herons, avocets and terns.
The Poda centre is easiest to reach by car, following the main road south to Sozopol (look for signs for the 'Poda' turn-off). Burgas public bus 17 runs here from the Zapad bus station. See the Poda website for bus departure times.
Sozopol СОЗОПОЛ
Pop 5700
Ancient Sozopol, with its charming old town of meandering cobbled streets and pretty wooden houses, huddled together on a narrow peninsula, is one of the coast’s real highlights. With two superb beaches, a genial atmosphere, plentiful accommodation and good transport links, it has long been a popular seaside resort and makes an excellent base for exploring the area. Although not quite as crowded as Nesebâr, it is becoming ever more popular with international visitors. There's a lively cultural scene, too, with plenty of free concerts and other events in summer.
The new town, known as 'Harmanite', lies south of the tiny bus station. The best beach is in this part of town, but otherwise, it's mainly modern hotels and residential areas.
History
Sozopol is the oldest settlement on the Bulgarian Black Sea coast, founded in an area belonging to an ancient Thracian tribe in 611 BC by Greek colonists from Miletus, who called their home Apollonia Pontica in honour of the god Apollo. One of these early settlers was the philosopher and astronomer Anaximander.
Apollonia, ruled by an elected Council of Archons, flourished as a major trading hub, but in 72 BC the town was sacked and mostly destroyed. Its famous bronze statue of Apollo was taken to Rome as booty.
Under the Byzantine Empire, and renamed Sozopolis (City of Salvation), the town was an important religious centre. It fell to Khan Tervel in 705, was recaptured by the Byzantines in 759 and finally reverted to the First Bulgarian Empire (681–1018) in 969. Under Turkish rule, centuries later, ship-building and fishing were mainstays of the economy.
During the communist era, the town was promoted as a holiday resort, although not until the 1990s did it really take off, with Russians and Germans being among the more numerous foreign visitors.
Sozopol
1Sights
1Archaeological MuseumA3
2Church of Sveta BogoroditsaB2
3Church of Sveti GeorgiB2
4Fishing HarbourA3
5Southern Fortress Wall & Tower MuseumB2
2Activities, Courses & Tours
6Sailing BoatsA3
7Sozopol Diving CenterC5
8Town BeachB4
4Sleeping
9Art HotelC2
10Doctor's HouseC1
11Hotel AnaxemanderD4
12Hotel DiamantiC1
13Hotel OrkaB5
14Hotel RadikB4
15Hotel Villa ListB5
16Justa HostelA2
17Sasha Khristov's Private RoomsC1
5Eating
18AlbatrosC5
19BijuA3
20Mehane NeptunC1
21PanoramaB1
3Entertainment
22Art Club MichelB2
23Open-Air TheatreA3
7Shopping
24Art Gallery LaskaridiB2
25Gallery BisseraB2
1Sights
Sozopol's sights are clustered in the old town, with the main attraction simply being the criss-crossing cobblestoned lanes that trace paths between 19th-century and stone-and-timber houses built on ruins that have been here more than 1000 years.
Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-22 226; ul Han Krum 2; adult/child 7/3 lv; h8.30am-6pm Jun-Sep, 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri Oct-May)
Housed in a drab concrete box near the port, this museum has a small but fascinating collection of local finds from its Apollonian glory days and beyond. In addition to a wealth of Hellenic treasures, the museum occasionally exhibits the skeleton of a local 'vampire', found with a stake driven through its chest. Enter from the building's northern side.
Church of Sveta BogoroditsaCHURCH
(Holy Virgin; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Anaksimandâr 13; donation 1 lv; h10am-6pm)
This 15th-century church was built below street level, as required at the time by the Ottoman rulers. Set in a courtyard with a giant fig tree, it is one of the most picturesque in town, with an exquisite wooden iconostasis and a pulpit carved with bunches of grapes.
Fishing HarbourHARBOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Boats line up picturesquely along the fishing harbour, along the western edge of the peninsula. Many of the boats can be chartered for short-term excursion or evening rides. Simply ask along the dock.
Southern Fortress Wall & Tower MuseumRUIN, MUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-22 267; www.sozopol-foundation.com; ul Milet 50; adult/child 7/5 lv; h9am-6pm)
This museum occupies a former granary and part of the fortification walls of the medieval town, dating from the 5th century AD. At this time, Sozopol was considered an important defensive post of the Byzantine Empire, with its capital at Constantinople (Istanbul). Visitors pass by some interior defensive walls and a well going back to the 3rd century BC. That said, it's a bit underwhelming. Even if you skip the museum, walk under the arch to see the sea views.
Church of Sveti GeorgiCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Apolonia; donation 1 lv; h9am-2pm & 3-8pm)
This attractive church boasts a fine painting of St George and the Dragon over the entrance and an impressive 19th-century iconostasis. The custodians here are rather keen to enforce the dress code (no shorts).
DON'T MISS
SVETI IVAN
Sveti Ivan ( GOOGLE MAP ) is the largest Bulgarian island in the Black Sea (0.7 sq km). It lies 3km north of Sozopol's old town, and can be visited by private boat (for around 50 lv) from the town's Fishing Harbour.
The island's history stretches back to Thracian and Roman times, and includes a monastery from the 4th century AD. Sveti Ivan made international headlines in 2010 with the purported discovery of the remains of St John the Baptist.
Sv Ivan is also an important bird sanctuary, with some 70 species of birds reported here. Visits are restricted during the spring nesting season.
2Activities
The town’s two beaches, Harmanite Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Ropotamo; h9am-6pm Jun-Sep) and Town Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-6pm Jun-Sep), are attractive, though waves can be quite high.
There's also a beautiful sand beach, Smokinya, l
ocated 4km south of Sozopol. Find it along the highway heading south or, hugging the coast, along ul Via Pontika. Look for signs to 'Smokinya' or 'Camping Smokinya'.
Sozopol Diving CenterDIVING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0885245526; www.dive-sozopol.com; ul Yani Popov 27)
This outfit offers supervised beginner dives from around 80 lv, as well as a range of specialist dives such as wreck dives (140 lv) and PADI courses. Two-day excursions, including accommodation, start from around 180 lv per person.
Sailing BoatsBOATING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sozopol Harbour; adult/child 10/6 lv)
Several large sailboats moored in the Old Town port on the western side of the peninsula offer evening sightseeing cruises in summer. Boats normally depart at around 6pm and 7.30pm and the cruise lasts for about an hour.
zFestivals & Events
Apollonia Arts FestivalART, MUSIC
(www.apollonia.bg; hend Aug–mid-Sep)
This is the highlight of Sozopol’s cultural calendar, with concerts, theatrical performances, art exhibitions, film screenings and more held across town.
4Sleeping
Sozopol has numerous private homes offering rooms. Look for signs along Republikanska in the new town and pretty much anywhere in the old town. Choose the new town if you're looking for a traditional beach holiday or if you're coming by car. The old town is smaller, quainter and closed off to most vehicle traffic.
oJusta HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-22 175; ul Apolonia 20; dm 20 lv; W)
This clean, cosy, centrally located hostel sits in the centre of the Old Town, a few minutes' walk from the beach. Dorm-bed accommodation with shared bath and shower. The price includes traditional breakfast (pancakes) and coffee.
Sasha Khristov’s Private RoomsPENSION$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-23 434; ul Venets 17; s/d from 20/30 lv; W)
This lovely family home in the Old Town faces the art gallery at the end of the Sozopol peninsula. It comprises good-sized rooms and a large apartment. Book ahead in summer.
Hotel OrkaHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888752200; www.sozopol-orka.com; ul Pârvi Mai 2; d/tr/apt 50/65/80 lv; ai)
In the centre of the new town, this is a neat, family-run hotel not far from the beach. Rooms are plain but clean, with balconies, TVs and fridges.
Zlatna Ribka CampingCAMPGROUND$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-22 534; www.zlatna-ribka.com; Tsarski Beach; tent/caravan sites from 30/45 lv; hJun-Sep; pWs)
Around 2km west of Sozopol's old town, Zlatna Ribka is a well-ordered campsite on its own private beach, with guarded spaces for 150 caravans and tents. On-site facilities include a restaurant, shops, a bakery, a surf school and other water sports, and lifeguards patrol the beach. Buses between Sozopol and Burgas stop outside the gates.
oArt HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-24 081, 0878650160; www.arthotel-sbh.com; ul Kiril & Metodii 72; d/studios 80/100 lv; aW)
This peaceful old house, belonging to the Union of Bulgarian Artists, is within a walled courtyard toward the tip of the peninsula, away from the crowds. It has a small selection of bright, comfortable rooms with balconies, most with sea views; breakfast is served on the terraces overlooking the sea.
Hotel RadikHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-23 706; ul Republikanska 4; d/studios/apt from 68/75/95 lv; paWs)
Run by a lovely English expat-Bulgarian couple, the Radik is cheap, cheerful and perfectly located 100m from the Old Town and a quick stagger to the beach. Rooms have sea views and balconies; studios and apartments have good kitchenettes.
Hotel AnaxemanderHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0882683361; www.hotel-anaxemander.eu; ul Odessa 38; d/tr/apt 70/80/100 lv; paW)
On a rocky promontory in a quiet corner of the new town, the Anaxemander has light and airy rooms, all with sea views and terraces, while the larger, two-bedroom apartments come with small kitchens and bathtubs. The hotel runs various excursions, including yacht trips.
Doctor's HouseHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-22 731; www.doctorshousesozopol.com; ul Morski Skali 35; r 60-80 lv, apt 100-140 lv; paW)
Perched over the sea at the northern tip of the peninsula, the Doctor's House has basic twin-bedded rooms, and larger apartments sleeping up to four people. All rooms have balconies and sea views. It has a restaurant and even its own chapel.
Hotel DiamantiHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-22 640; www.hoteldiamanti.com; ul Morski Skali 8; d/apt from 80/120 lv; aW)
Old town Diamanti has a variety of rooms, some with sea views, including apartments with kitchenettes; larger apartments are available in a second building nearby. There's also a terrace restaurant, with live music in summer.
Hotel Villa ListHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-22 235; www.hotellist-bg.com; ul Yani Popov 5; s/d from 80/120 lv; ais)
With a superb setting just off the town beach, big rooms with balconies and an outdoor pool with a view over the sea, Villa List is understandably very popular, and frequently fully booked in summer.
5Eating
Fish, naturally enough, is the local speciality, and several reasonably priced restaurants are strung out along the port area. The best restaurants in town are on ul Morksi Skali, on the far northeastern end of the peninsula. These are mainly traditional affairs with some spectacular views.
DiamantBULGARIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Ropotamo; mains 5-8 lv; h9am-11pm Jun-Sep)
Nothing special, but one of the better Harmanite beachfront restaurants, serving traditional grills, soups, fish and cheap three-course lunch deals from around 5 lv. It's one of a string of several similar restaurants on ul Ropotamo, located toward the southern end of Harmanite Beach.
BijuSEAFOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878726928; ul Kraybrezhna 51; mains 5-10 lv; h11am-11pm)
This simple harbour-side restaurant is good value, specialising in a variety of fresh fish dishes. Bulgarian staples such as kebabcheta (spicy grilled sausages) and salads are also available.
AlbatrosBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0897909089; www.hoteli-albatros.com; ul Yani Popov 10; mains 7-14 lv; h9am-11.30pm; W)
No sea views, but no touts either, this handy new town restaurant, below a hotel of the same name, serves great grills, fish and some of the best homemade chips (French fries) we've tasted. There are a few street-side tables or a handsome dining room.
PanoramaSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Morski Skali 21; mains 8-20 lv; h11am-11pm)
This lively place has an open terrace with a fantastic view toward Sveti Ivan island. Fresh, locally caught fish is the mainstay of the menu. It's one of the best of many seafood spots on this street.
oMehane NeptunBULGARIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-22 735; ul Morski Skali 45; mains 15-30 lv; h10am-11pm)
Occupying a promontory looking out over the sea and Sveti Ivan Island in the distance, the awesome views and the delicious fish combinations, such as mouth-watering stuffed squid, are only partly marred by the sometimes indifferent service. Try to book a sea-view table outdoors for around dusk and settle in for a memorable evening.
3Entertainment
Live music, dancing and other shows are often staged through the summer at the modern open-air theatre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Han Krum) near the Archaeological Museum.
Art Club MichelLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889801120; ul Apolonia 39; tickets 3-5 lv; h6pm-2am)
With its walled garden just off one of the old town's main streets, this is a mellow place to go for live music, especially jazz.
7Shopping
In summer, the streets in the old town are lined with stalls selling the usual array of tourist tat, but there are some better-quality souvenirs to be found.
Gallery BisseraGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-24 092; ul Apolonia 52; h9am-10pm)
Set up in an old
wooden barn, Gallery Bissera offers a range of local paintings and ceramics, as well as some antique oddments.
Art Gallery LaskaridiGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-23 906; ul Kiril & Metodii 19; h9am-8pm)
Sells contemporary art, jewellery and pottery, as well as souvenir books about Sozopol. The gallery is located in a historic house that sits behind ruins of ancient churches.
8Information
There's no tourist information office.
Many banks with ATMs can be found along the old town’s main streets, and around the new town’s main square.
8Getting There & Away
The small public bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0550-23 460; www.bgrazpisanie.com; ul Han Krum) is just south of the old town walls. Buses leave for Burgas (5 lv, 40 minutes) about every 30 minutes between 6am and 9pm in summer, and about once an hour in the low season.
In summer, hourly buses go to Primorsko (6 lv, 30 minutes) and Kiten (6 lv, 40 minutes). Public buses leave two to three times a day for Sofia (32 lv, seven hours).
Fast Ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0988908629, booking 0885808001; www.fastferry.bg; Sozopol Harbour) operates from a kiosk at the harbour and runs three daily high-speed catamarans or hydrofoils to both Nesebâr (one way/return from 27/54 lv, 40 minutes) and Pomorie (one way/return from 22/44 lv, 30 minutes) from June to September.