Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  8Getting There & Away

  There are two bus stations in Pomorie. The main station is 3km west of the town centre; regular buses and minibuses between Burgas and Nesebâr and/or Sunny Beach usually stop only at the main station. The smaller central station is situated to the southeast, closer to the beach resorts. Roughly hourly minibuses marked ‘Pomorie Central’ (Поморие Център) leave from Burgas (4 lv, 30 minutes) and Sunny Beach (3 lv, 30 minutes).

  Nesebâr НЕСЕБЪР

  Pop 11,600

  On a small rocky outcrop 37km northeast of Burgas, connected to the mainland by a narrow, artificial isthmus, pretty-as-a-postcard Nesebâr is famous for its surprisingly numerous, albeit mostly ruined, medieval churches. It has, inevitably, become heavily commercialised, and transforms into one huge, open-air souvenir market during the high season; outside summer, it's a ghost town. Designated by Unesco as a World Heritage site, Nesebâr has its charms, but in summer these can be overpowered by the crowds and the relentless parade of tacky shops.

  History

  Greek colonists founded what became the thriving trading port of Mesembria in 512 BC, although most of their temples and towers were submerged after the level of the Black Sea rose around 2000 years ago.

  Under Byzantine rule, during the 5th and 6th centuries AD, several grand churches were erected and the fortifications extended. After the Bulgar invasion in 812, the town was renamed Nesebâr; over the following centuries, it passed back and forth between Byzantium and the First Bulgarian Empire (681–1018), but remained largely unscathed, finally falling to the Turks in 1453.

  During the Bulgarian National Revival of the 18th and 19th centuries, Nesebâr prospered, and wealthy merchants built grand villas here, some of which remain today. Nesebâr ceased to be an active trading town from the early 20th century, and these days it survives almost entirely on tourism.

  Nesebâr

  1Sights

  1Archaeological MuseumB3

  2Christ Pantokrator ChurchC3

  3Church of St John the BaptistC2

  4Ethnographic MuseumD3

  5Sveta Paraskeva ChurchD2

  6Sveta Sofia ChurchD2

  7Sveti Spas ChurchC2

  8Sveti Stefan ChurchC3

  9Town GateA3

  4Sleeping

  10Boutique Hotel St. StefanC3

  11Hotel TonyE1

  12Prince Cyril HotelD2

  13Royal Palace HotelC2

  5Eating

  14Gloria MarB3

  15Mehana Pri ShopiteE2

  16PlakamotoC3

  17Zlatnoto RunoE3

  1Sights

  Nesebâr was once home to about 80 churches, but many have been lost to time. Of the survivors, most are now in ruins. Characteristic of the Nesebâr style are the horizontal strips of white stone and red brick, and facades decorated with green ceramic discs.

  Sveta Sofia ChurchRUINS

  (Old Metropolitan Church; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-46 019; www.ancient-nessebar.com; ul Mitropolitska; hdawn-dusk)F

  The impressive ruins of this 5th-century church today form the centrepiece of a busy plaza surrounded by cafes and artists’ street stalls.

  Sveti Stefan ChurchCHURCH

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-46 019; www.ancient-nessebar.com; ul Ribarska; adult/child 6/3 lv; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pm & 2.30-7pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr)

  Built in the 11th century and reconstructed 500 years later, this is the best-preserved church in town. If you only visit one, this is the church to choose. Its beautiful 16th- to 18th-century murals cover virtually the entire interior. Come early, as it's popular with tour groups.

  Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-46 019; www.ancient-nessebar.com; ul Mesembria 2; adult/child 6/3 lv; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm & 2.30-7pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, reduced hours Oct-May)

  Explore the rich history of Nesebâr – formerly Mesembria – at this fine museum. Greek and Roman pottery, statues and tombstones, as well as Thracian gold jewellery and ancient anchors, are displayed here. There's also a collection of icons recovered from Nesebâr’s numerous churches.

  Ethnographic MuseumMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-46 019; www.ancient-nessebar.com; ul Mesembria 32; adult/child 3/2 lv; h10.30am-2pm & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, on request Oct-May)

  Inside a typical wooden National Revival building, constructed in 1840 for a wealthy merchant, this museum features exhibitions of folk costumes and traditional weaving.

  Christ Pantokrator ChurchCHURCH

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-46 019; www.ancient-nessebar.com; ul Mesembria; adult/child 3/2 lv; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm & 2.30-7pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, reduced hours Oct-May)

  Typical of the characteristic Nesebâr construction is this well-preserved church, built in the mid-14th century. An unusual feature at the eastern end of the exterior of the church is the frieze of swastikas, an ancient solar symbol. The church now houses a small gallery dedicated to old maps.

  Sveta Paraskeva ChurchCHURCH

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-46 019; www.ancient-nessebar.com; ul Hemus; adult/child 3/2 lv; h10.30am-2pm & 2.30-7pm Jun-Sep, to 6pm May & Oct, on request Nov-Apr)

  With only one nave and one apse, the Sveta Paraskeva Church is a fine example of 13th-century architecture. The church now houses a small exhibition of murals that have survived through the ages, including some from the lost St George the Elder church, which was destroyed in 1958.

  Church of St John the BaptistCHURCH

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-46 019; www.ancient-nessebar.com; ul Mitropolitska; adult/child 3/2 lv; h10.30am-2pm & 2.30-7pm Jun-Sep, to 6pm May & Oct, on request Nov-Apr)

  The Church of St John the Baptist was built in the 10th century and features some of the best-preserved murals from the 14th and 17th centuries. The church is built on the foundations of an earlier church from the Byzantine period dating from the 6th century.

  Sveti Spas ChurchCHURCH

  (Church of the Blessed Saviour; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-46 019; www.ancient-nessebar.com; ul Aheloi; adult/child 3/2 lv; h10.30am-2pm & 2.30-7pm Jun-Sep, to 6pm May & Oct, on request Nov-Apr)

  This modest, single-nave church was built in 1609, below ground level, as dictated by the Ottoman authorities of the time. It features some well-preserved murals depicting the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary.

  Town GateGATE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  The town gate leads to the old town. The well-preserved fortification walls here date from the 5th century AD.

  SEEING THE CHURCHES

  The ruins, including the main church, Sveta Sofia, are free to enter or to observe. Five churches – Sveti Stefan, Sveti Spas, Christ Pantokrator, Sveta Paraskeva and the Church of St John the Baptist – contain modest exhibitions and require a separate admission fee. Various combined admission tickets are available, and include access to the Archaeological Museum, with the Ethnographic Museum and one or more of the churches.

  2Activities

  Around 1.5km southwest of the peninsula, in the 'new town', is South Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ). There are also beaches on the extreme eastern end of the outcropping.

  Aqua ParadiseWATER PARK

  (%0885208055; www.aquaparadise-bg.com; adult/child 40/20 lv, after 3pm 30/15 lv; h10am-6.30pm; c)

  Organised watery fun is on hand at Aqua Paradise, a huge water park on the southern outskirts of Sunny Beach just as you enter Nesebâr, with a variety of pools, slides and chutes. A free minibus, running every 15 minutes, makes pick-ups at signed stops around Nesebâr and Sunny Beach.

  4Sleeping

  In summer you'll need to book accommodation in advance. Private rooms are the best option for budget travellers – locals offering rooms meet tourists off the bus.

  Hotel TonyGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-42 928; ul Kraybrezhna 20; r 40-50 lv; hJun-Sep; a)

  Thanks to its low prices and excellent location overlooking the sea, the Ho
tel Tony books out quickly: be sure to reserve well in advance. Rooms are simple but clean, and the chatty host is very helpful.

  oBoutique Hotel St StefanBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-43 603; www.hotelsaintstefan.com; ul Ribarska 11; r/ste 80/160 lv; paW)

  One of the nicest hotels in Nesebâr, the St Stefan offers rooms with views out over the harbour and Black Sea. There's a small sauna on the premises as well as a terrace for drinks and light meals. Rooms feature original artwork by Bulgarian artists. Breakfast costs 8 lv. Book well in advance for summer dates.

  Prince Cyril HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0887897971; hotelprincecyril@gmail.com; ul Slavyanska 9; d 60-80 lv; aW)

  Located on a quiet, cobbled, souvenir-stall-free lane, this is a friendly place with a variety of rooms, all with TV and fridge, but not all with air-con; check out a few first and try to avoid the cramped, top-floor, fan-only rooms.

  Royal Palace HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-46 490; www.nessebarpalace.com; ul Mitropolitska 19; s/d 80/110 lv; pnaW)

  In the centre of the old town, the Royal Palace offers stylish and comfortable rooms with fridges and TVs (though there’s only one single). There’s a good restaurant and summer garden, and various package deals are often available.

  5Eating & Drinking

  All restaurants in Nesebâr are geared toward the passing tourist trade, and prices are roughly twice what you’ll pay away from the coastal resorts. Try to avoid those that employ touts.

  Zlatnoto RunoBULGARIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-45 602; ul Rusalka 6; mains 8-20 lv; h10am-midnight)

  Overlooking the sea on the southeastern end of the peninsula, the ‘Golden Fleece’ serves a varied menu, including roast lamb and rabbit, plus some inventive seafood dishes, such as octopus with blueberry sauce.

  PlakamotoSEAFOOD$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888807239; ul Ivan Alexander 9; mains 8-20 lv; hnoon-11pm)

  With tiers of seating offering gorgeous sea views, and a menu crammed with splendid seafood dishes, this is the go-to place for a dinner (or lunch) to remember.

  Mehana Pri ShopiteBULGARIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0897910754; ul Neptun 12; mains 10-20 lv; h9am-11pm; v)

  Set in a traditional, tavern-style courtyard around a twisted, 300-year-old fig tree, this is a welcoming place with great food, including freshly caught fish, grills, steaks and vegetarian options.

  oGloria MarBULGARIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0893550055; www.gloriamar-bg.com; ul Krajbrezhna 9; mains 12-30 lv; h11am-11pm)

  For our money, the best dining option in touristy Nesebâr. Fresh seafood, wood-fired pizzas and grilled meats, as well as harder-to-find risottos and paellas. There's an extensive wine list and dining on three levels, including a rooftop terrace. It's on the southern side of old Nesebâr, facing the marina and passenger ferry terminal.

  8Getting There & Away

  Nesebâr is well connected to coastal destinations by public transport, and the town’s bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0554-42 721; www.bgrazpisanie.com) is on the small square just outside the city walls. The stop before this on the mainland is for the new town. Buses run in season every few minutes to Sunny Beach (1 lv, 10 minutes). Longer-haul destinations include Burgas (6 lv, one hour, hourly), Varna (14 lv, two hours, four daily) and Sofia (37 lv, seven hours, three daily).

  In season, a slower, tourist-friendly trolleybus ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 3/1 lv; hJun-Sep) runs from just outside the town gate of Nesebâr to the southern end of Sunny Beach, near Hotel Kotva. The trolley goes every 10 to 15 minutes. A water taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 10/5 lv) runs every 15 minutes from the port on the northern side of Nesebâr, facing Sunny Beach, to the central part of the Sunny Beach resort.

  In season, high-speed Fast Ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0885808001; www.fastferry.bg; Passenger Ferry Port; h8.30am-8.30pm Jun-Sep) hydrofoils and catamarans run daily from Nesebâr's passenger ferry port (on the southern side of Nesebâr) to Pomorie and Sozopol. Buy tickets from a small stand along the water in front of the terminal building, online or on board. See the website for the current schedule and prices.

  WORTH A TRIP

  SUNNY BEACH (SLâNCHEV BRYAG) СЛЪНЧЕВ БРЯГ

  Bulgaria’s biggest purpose-built seaside resort, Sunny Beach (Slânchev Bryag) is the Black Sea coast’s hyperactive answer to the Spanish costas, and probably the most expensive place in the country.

  The appeal is clear, though, with several kilometres of sandy beach that attracts more international sun worshippers than any other resort in the country. If you’re just looking to top up your tan by day and go clubbing all night, this is the place to come. You won’t even notice that you’re in a country called Bulgaria.

  Sunny Beach is a package-holiday resort, so almost everyone staying here will be on a pre-booked, often all-inclusive, deal arranged in their home countries. Of all the coastal resorts, this is the least user-friendly for independent travellers, so if you really want to stay here, it’s best to book through an agent at home (or lay your hat in nearby Nesebâr instead).

  Northern Coast

  Varna ВАРНА

  Pop 334,700

  Bulgaria’s third city and maritime capital, Varna is the most interesting and cosmopolitan town on the Black Sea coast. A combination of port city, naval base and seaside resort, it’s an appealing place to while away a few days, packed with history yet thoroughly modern, with an enormous park to amble round and a lengthy beach to lounge on. In the city centre you’ll find Bulgaria’s largest Roman baths complex and its finest archaeological museum, as well as a lively cultural and restaurant scene.

  History

  In 585 BC, Greeks from Miletus settled in the area of modern Varna, founding the city of Odessos, which thrived as a major commercial centre, taken over by the Romans in the 2nd century AD.

  The city became a key port under the Byzantines, and gained its modern name of Varna (possibly derived from the word for ‘water’) during the period of the First Bulgarian Empire (681–1018). Varna was used by British troops as a port during the Crimean War (1853–56), after which Turkey allowed its allies Britain and France to sell their products throughout the Ottoman Empire, making Varna a great trading centre once more.

  In 1866 a railway between Ruse and Varna was built, providing a direct route from the Danube to the Black Sea coast, and Varna became a major shipbuilding centre and port. In 1921 Varna was established as Bulgaria’s first seaside holiday resort, and its status as the country’s summertime playground was enhanced by the founding of the International Festival in 1926, which has been going strong ever since.

  Varna

  1Top Sights

  1Archaeological MuseumB2

  1Sights

  2AquariumE5

  3Cathedral of the Assumption of the VirginA3

  4Copernicus PlanetariumE4

  5Roman ThermaeC5

  6St Michael the Archangel ChurchD3

  7Sveti Atanas Orthodox ChurchD5

  8Sveti Nikolai ChurchC3

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  9BeachF4

  10Free Varna TourA3

  4Sleeping

  11Flag HostelB2

  12Graffit Gallery HotelE2

  13Grand Hotel LondonB4

  14Hotel CapitolE2

  15Hotel HiC4

  16Yo Ho HostelA4

  5Eating

  17Bistro DragomanB2

  18Di Wine Restaurant & Wine CellarB2

  19Dom na ArkitektaB4

  20Mr BabaD7

  21OrientC5

  22Pri MonahiniteE5

  23Stariya ChinarC5

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  24Makalali Beach BarE4

  25Palm BeachF4

  26Pench'sB3

  27SundogsC4

  3Entertainment

  28Festival Hall & Congress CentreE3

  29Varna Opera TheatreA4

  1Sights

  oAr
chaeological MuseumMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-681 030; www.archaeo.museumvarna.com; ul Maria Luisa 41; adult/child 10/2 lv; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, Tue-Sat Oct-Mar; g8, 9, 109, 409)

  Exhibits at this vast museum, the best of its kind in Bulgaria, include 6000-year-old bangles, necklaces and earrings said to be the oldest worked gold found in the world. You'll also find Roman surgical implements, Hellenistic tombstones and touching oddments including a marble plaque listing, in Greek, the names of the city’s school graduates for AD 221. All of the exhibits are helpfully signposted in English, with excellent explanatory text. There's a large collection of icons on the second floor.

  Cathedral of the Assumption of the VirginCHURCH

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-613 005; www.mitropolia-varna.org; pl Kiril & Metodii 2; h8am-6pm; g8, 9, 109, 409)

  Varna's cathedral (1886) is topped with golden onion domes. Note the murals (painted in 1950) and colourful stained-glass windows, though you'll have to pay 5 lv if you want to take photos inside.

  Roman ThermaeRUINS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-600 059; www.archaeo.museumvarna.com; cnr ul Han Krum & ul San Stefano; adult/child 5/2 lv; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat Nov-Apr)