Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
Page 86
Children
Children play a big part in the social and cultural scenes of family-friendly Bulgaria. Aside from bars, children are welcomed with open arms at restaurants, hotels and attractions.
The Black Sea coast, and winter sports areas such as Bansko, are the most family-friendly regions. Bigger hotels here often have playgroups and kids’ clubs. More rural areas may appeal to older children, as activities such as horse riding, cycling and wildlife-watching are available. All big towns have public parks with playgrounds, as well as attractions that children might enjoy, like zoos, which you can find in both Sofia and Varna.
For inspiration and tips on family travel, pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children guide.
Practicalities for Parents
ABaby care Most of the necessities for travelling with toddlers, such as disposable nappies (diapers), baby food and fresh or powdered milk are readily available in shops and supermarkets across the country. Public nappy-changing facilities are not common in public toilets but they can be found in toilets at higher-end restaurants and hotels.
ABabysitting Agencies are only common among the expatriate community in Sofia. Some top-end hotels offer this service, however, and ski creche facilities are increasingly common in luxurious hotels at winter sports hubs such as Bansko.
ABreastfeeding Public breastfeeding is not very common in Bulgaria, though awareness-raising groups are working to change attitudes.
ACots and car seats Top-end, international chain hotels in cities, and hotels in coastal resorts, usually have cots available. International car rental firms can provide children’s safety seats for a nominal extra cost, but it’s essential to book these in advance.
ARestaurants Most restaurants in Bulgaria welcome families with children, although few offer specific children's menus, and fewer still have high chairs. You're more likely to find these kinds of facilities in and around the Black Sea resorts and in some places in Sofia. There are plenty of Western-style restaurants and international fast-food chains if your little ones are fussy eaters.
Customs Regulations
AWhether you’re inspected by customs officers depends on how you enter the country, but bona fide tourists are generally left alone.
AIf you’re travelling between Bulgaria and another EU country, then normal EU rules on what you can import or export apply.
AIf you enter or leave the country with more than €10,000 on you (in any currency), you must declare it.
ACheck with the customs service in your home country for advice on what you can import duty-free from Bulgaria.
AFor information about exporting unusual items (such as valuable archaeological artefacts) by air, contact the National Customs Agency (www.customs.bg).
Discount Cards
International Student (ISIC), Youth (IYTC) and Teacher (ITIC) discount cards can be used in Bulgaria, and offer a range of discounts on transport, accommodation, restaurants, shopping, entertainment venues and tourist attractions. Many places that accept these cards don’t advertise the fact, so it’s always worth asking. Cards may be bought in Bulgaria at branches of the Usit Colours (www.usitcolours.bg) travel agency. Check online at www.isic.org for current details and for participating companies.
Electricity
Embassies & Consulates
The following embassies are all in Sofia.
Australian Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-946 1334; http://greece.embassy.gov.au; ul Trakia 37; g78, 79)
Canadian Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-969 9710; www.canadainternational.gc.ca; ul Pozitano 7; h8.30am-1pm Mon-Fri; mSerdika, j1, 6, 7)
French Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-965 1100; www.ambafrance-bg.org; ul Oborishte 27-29; h9am-noon Mon-Fri; g9, mSofiyski Universitet)
German Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-918 380; www.sofia.diplo.de; ul Frederic Joliot-Curie 25; h8.15-11.30am Mon-Thu, 8.15-10.30am Fri; mJoliot-Curie)
Irish Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-985 3425; www.embassyofireland.bg; ul Bacho Kiro 26-30; h9.15am-4.45pm Mon-Fri; mSerdika, j20, 22)
UK Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-933 9222; www.ukinbulgaria.fco.gov.uk; ul Moskovksa 9; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; mSerdika, j20, 22)
US Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-933 9222; www.ukinbulgaria.fco.gov.uk; ul Moskovksa 9; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; mSerdika, j20, 22)
ETIQUETTE
AGreetings Bulgarians are polite and a little reserved on first meetings, so a handshake is most appropriate.
APersonal space Bulgarian attitudes to personal space are more relaxed than some other cultures. People may approach closely when speaking to you, or join your table at crowded restaurants.
AQueues The Bulgarian attitude toward queuing can be somewhat fluid; idle or distracted travellers can expect queue-jumpers to pounce.
AGifts Flowers and bottles of spirits are well received by Bulgarian hosts, if you're lucky enough to be invited to dinner.
ATipping Rounding up a bill, or leaving 10% of the total, is standard tipping practice.
APublic transport In Bulgaria it is considered very poor form not to relinquish your seat for a pregnant or elderly person.
Food & Drink
Eating out in Bulgaria is remarkably cheap, at least for Western travellers, and even if you're on a tight budget you'll have no problem eating well. For more information see our feature on Bulgarian cuisine.
EATING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a standard main course. Unless otherwise stated, service charge is included in the price.
€ less than 10 lv
€€ 10–20 lv
€€€ more than 20 lv
GLBTI Travellers
Homosexuality is legal in Bulgaria but gay culture is very discreet as a result of prevailing macho attitudes and widespread homophobia. Same-sex relationships have no legal recognition and gay couples cannot adopt children or seek IVF treatment.
In common with other Eastern European countries, Bulgaria is a very conservative society. Discrimination is illegal, but many Bulgarians react negatively to open displays of affection between same-sex couples, and a depressingly high number consider homosexuality a mental illness. Attitudes, among younger people at least, are changing, and there are several gay clubs and bars in Sofia and small scenes in Varna and Plovdiv. There is an annual Gay Pride march in Sofia (www.sofiapride.org), although this has been the focus of protests and even violence in past years.
One of Bulgaria's biggest music stars, Azis, is an openly gay, cross-dressing Roma, who has spoken about the double discrimination he faces towards his sexuality and ethnicity.
For more information see www.gay.bg and www.gay-bulgaria.info.
Health
Before You Go
Health Insurance
Citizens of other European Economic Area countries (EU plus Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein) should pick up a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) before travel, which entitles you to the same immediate medical treatment that's available to Bulgarian nationals. However, you should also consider buying an insurance policy that covers you for the worst possible scenario, such as an accident requiring an emergency flight home.
Vaccinations
No vaccinations are required for travel to Bulgaria, but vaccination against typhoid and hepatitis A may be recommended.
In Bulgaria
Availability & Cost of Health Care
Every major town and city has government hospitals of an acceptable, though not always high, standard. Private clinics are preferable.
Infectious Diseases
Rabies This disease is fatal if untreated, and is a potential concern considering the number of stray dogs in Bulgaria. Do not approach feral dogs; if you are bitten by a dog, bat or any other mammal, seek medical attention immediately.
Tick-borne Encephalitis Spread by tick bites, this is a serious infection of the brain and is present in some rural areas of Bulgaria. Contraction risks are low, but if you are camping in rural areas, protect against bites by using sprays and wearing long-sleeved
shirts and long trousers. Check for ticks if camping; remove any invaders head-first using tweezers and seek medical advice.
Tap Water
Bulgarian tap water is generally safe and drinkable, but may have an odd taste. There have been reports of contamination in some rural areas. It's best to use bottled mineral water, which is widely available and cheap.
Insurance
A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is a sensible idea. There are a wide variety of policies available, with some policies offering lower and higher medical-expense options, so check the small print.
Some policies specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’, which can include scuba diving, motorcycling and even trekking. A locally acquired motorcycle licence is not valid under some policies.
You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim later, make sure you keep all documentation. Some policies ask you to call back (via reverse charges) to a centre in your home country where an immediate assessment of your problem can be made.
Check that the policy covers ambulances as well as an emergency flight home.
Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.
Internet Access
AMost hotels and hostels offer free internet access to guests, and wi-fi hotspots can be found in many restaurants, cafes and other businesses. Some hotels offer laptops for guest use.
AWith the increasing availability of wi-fi, internet cafes have become something of a rarity in Bulgaria. Where internet cafes do exist, access is usually cheap, between 2 lv and 3 lv per hour, although these are often cramped, smoky bunkers where teenage boys play deafening computer games, and connections can be painfully slow.
AIn reviews the @ symbol is used to show premises that provide computers for internet access, or plug-in facilities for laptops, while the wi-fi symbol denotes places that offer wireless internet access.
Legal Matters
Bulgaria is a member state of the EU and more or less follows the same legal system as most of the rest of Europe, and anyone arrested has the right to information, a lawyer, and a translator or translated document of any charges. The days of ripping off foreign travellers are long gone: traffic police have to abide by a certain code of ethics. But residents do complain bitterly about corruption within some government departments, especially customs. If you do get into serious trouble with the police, it’s best to contact your embassy.
Maps
Even for dedicated satnav users, road maps are a good idea if you’re driving around Bulgaria (though recent ones can be frustratingly tricky to track down). Domino's Bulgaria Road Atlas (1:330,000) and Freytag & Berndt's Bulgaria Road Map (1:400,000) are high quality, though Marco Polo's Bulgaria (1:800,00) is the most freshly updated.
For hikers, maps are even more crucial. It's recommended to buy hiking maps online before you reach Bulgaria, or get them at bookshops in Sofia (before you reach remote hiking terrain; map availability in villages is very variable, even at tourist offices). A good place to find maps in the capital is Zig Zag Holidays, which sells maps covering the various national parks and mountain ranges. Elsewhere, local travel agencies or tourist information centres are your best bet.
Money
ATMs
ATMs that accept major credit cards (ie Visa, MasterCard and American Express) are common, found in all sizeable towns and cities. The total amount you can withdraw depends on your bank's own restrictions.
Credit & Debit Cards
You cannot rely on using a credit card exclusively in Bulgaria; use it to get cash from banks and for major purchases only. Credit cards are commonly accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops in the big cities, towns and tourist resorts, but acceptance is less widespread in more rural areas. Some places, particularly the more expensive hotels, will add a 5% surcharge to your bill if you use a credit card.
Currency
The local currency is the lev (plural: leva), comprised of 100 stotinki. It is almost always abbreviated to lv (лв). The lev is a stable currency. For major purchases such as organised tours, airfares, car rental and midrange and top-end hotels, prices are often quoted by staff in euros, although payment is possible in leva, too. Bulgaria has no immediate plans to adopt the euro as its national currency.
Bulgarian banknotes come in denominations of 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 leva. Coins come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 stotinki and 1 lev. Prices for smaller items are always quoted in leva or a fraction of a lev, eg on a bus ticket the fare will be listed as ‘0.50 lv’ rather than ‘50 stotinki’. Some shops will not bother to give change less than 1 lv in value. It's wise to bring exact change or small bills for minor attractions, which seldom seem to have change.
Exchange Rates
Australia A$1 1.28 lv
Canada C$1 1.34 lv
Europe €1 1.95 lv
Japan ¥100 1.67 lv
New Zealand NZ$1 1.22 lv
Romania 1 lei 0.43 lv
UK UK£1 2.45 lv
USA US$1 1.74 lv
For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.
Money Changers
Foreign exchange offices can be found in all large towns, and current rates are always displayed prominently. They are no longer allowed to charge commission, but that doesn't always stop them trying; always check the final amount that you will be offered before handing over your cash. Avoid exchange offices at train stations, airports or in tourist resorts as rates are often poor.
When changing money, make sure that the foreign banknotes you have are not torn, marked or grubby, otherwise they may be refused. Similarly, make sure that any leva given to you are not torn or marked. The best currencies to take to Bulgaria are euros, pounds sterling and US dollars. You may have trouble changing less familiar currencies, such as Australian or Canadian dollars, but you should be able to find somewhere in a city such as Sofia, Plovdiv or Varna that will accept most major international currencies.
It’s also easy to change cash at most of the larger banks found in cities and major towns; the exchange rates listed on the electronic boards in bank windows may offer slightly higher rates than foreign exchange offices, but they may charge a commission.
Scams
Foreigners may be approached on the street (especially in Sofia or Varna) and asked to change money, but this is illegal and there’s a high chance you’ll be given counterfeit leva, short-changed or robbed, so don't do it!
Taxes & Refunds
The value-added tax (VAT) of 20% is included in all prices quoted in Bulgaria, and is included in all prices listed in our reviews. Some restaurants add a service charge of 10%, and some top-end hotels and tour-guide services list pre-VAT prices.
TIPPING
ABars Serving staff don't expect tips per round, though leaving a small tip when you leave is appreciated.
AHotels Expectation of a tip for hotel staff is rare except in very high-end places.
ARestaurants In some restaurants a 10% service charge is already added, although waiters may still round up the bill or not return with your change.
ATaxis Metered-taxi drivers usually expect to keep the change from a fare.
Opening Hours
Standard opening hours are as follows.
Banks 9am to 4pm Monday to Friday
Bars 11am to midnight
Government offices 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday
Post offices 8.30am to 5pm Monday to Friday
Restaurants 11am to 11pm
Shops 9am to 6pm
Post
The standard cost of sending a postcard is 0.40 lv within Bulgaria, while a letter up to 50g costs 0.65 lv. Postcards and letters weighing up to 20g cost 1 lv to elsewhere in Europe and 1.40 lv to the rest of the world. Get the most up-to-date rates at www.bgpost.bg.
To send a parcel
from Bulgaria, it will save you hassle to bring it unwrapped to the post office. Anything heavier than 2kg must often be taken to a special customs post office (ask at the post office for information).
Public Holidays
During official public holidays all government offices, banks, post offices and major businesses will be closed. Hotels, restaurants, bars, national parks/reserves and museums usually stay open (unless the holiday coincides with a normal day off), as do most shops and petrol stations; border crossings and public transport continue to operate normally.
New Year’s Day 1 January
Liberation Day 3 March
Orthodox Easter March/April/May
May Day 1 May
St George’s Day/Bulgarian Army Day 6 May
Cyrillic Alphabet/Culture and Literacy Day 24 May
Unification Day 6 September
Bulgarian Independence Day 22 September
Christmas 25 & 26 December
Telephone