Book Read Free

Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

Page 23

by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)


  Housework was still housework, but most families were able to buy

  appliances on credit. Advertisers were especially skilled at convincing the

  American family that they needed all sorts of labor-saving devices. When

  faced with the choice of going into debt to buy an electric stove or slaving

  over a wood stove, most women probably opted for electricity. Not only

  could they cook with the new-fangled electrical marvel, but they could

  sew, wash, and iron clothes using new electrical appliances.

  These appliances might have saved, or ruined, many relationships.

  Instead of having to spend all her time keeping house, a woman now was

  able to greet her husband at the end of the day and have time to talk to

  him. New-fangled gadgets such as pressure cookers allowed a woman to

  change a menu if her husband unexpectedly brought his boss home for

  dinner.

  After dinner, the couple might be able to have some leisure time to-

  gether, attending a show or some other attraction that was available to

  them. Many of these attractions were child friendly and the entire family

  could attend.

  Some men found the new, more assertive woman threatening. Many

  men believed that women were frail and needed a man to protect them.

  Some men tried to keep women home or make it illegal for them to work,

  but most women simply ignored these attempts to keep them at home.

  134

  THE INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY

  In some cases, the women had to work, because there was no man avail-

  able to provide a paycheck. In other cases, many women did not want to

  subjugate themselves to men and found ways to get around a community’s

  attempts to keep women at home.

  The stock market crash of 1929 accomplished what legislation and

  public opinion could not do during the previous years. More families

  stayed home; they simply did not have the finances to do anything else.

  Many families could afford relatively inexpensive records and go to a

  movie every week or so, but many other activities were too expensive.

  Electricity again helped many people pass the time.

  Radio kept many people occupied, and the programs would allow

  everyone to gather around the radio and enjoy an evening of listening to

  music or other forms of entertainment. During the day, women would lis-

  ten to a new kind of program called a soap opera. Sponsored by companies

  that made washing products, programs such as Stella Dallas would keep

  people listening to discover the new adventures of the young heroine.

  SEXUALITY AND MORALITY

  The decade ushered in a major attempt by government to legislate moral-

  ity. On January 16, 1920, the Volstead Act ushered in the era of American

  history commonly referred to as Prohibition. The act made the manufac-

  turing and sale of alcohol illegal. Almost as soon as the ink was dry,

  Americans began searching for ways to evade the legislation.

  The convenience of cars transformed dating for young people. They

  quickly discovered that the automobile allowed men and women to ignore

  the heavily chaperoned dates that had been the primary form of courtship

  before WWI. A young man could meet a young woman, they could drive

  off, and no other adults would be able to know where they went.

  In earlier decades, women encouraged men to be as chaste outside of

  marriage as women, but, in the 1920s, that concept disappeared as women

  seemed to believe that they had the rights to be as sexually active as men.

  Before the war, sexual activity was rarely discussed. In the 1920s, it was a

  common topic of conversation. American naivete had changed so much

  that the American public became aware of homosexuality, although it held

  stigma among most Americans.

  The flapper seemed to be the center of sexual confrontation. There

  seems to be a variety of origins for the term flapper, but most people agree

  that the 1920s use of the word flapper meant a young woman who

  embraced the ideas of modern womanhood. She wore short skirts, bobbed

  their hair, ignored the ‘ courting customs’’ of their ancestors, drank illegal

  The 1920s

  135

  alcohol, dated men she hardly knew, and danced the night away in clubs,

  bars, and ‘ speakeasies.’’ These young women enjoyed the activities and

  would not let the morality of their parents’ generation prevent them from

  having a good time. Women, for the first time on a large scale, were pub-

  licly acknowledging that they enjoyed their activities, the company of

  men, and the physical sensations that came with being young.

  The old order was shocked and attempted to classify the flapper as less

  intelligent or somehow mentally disturbed. Some communities attempted

  to arrest young women found alone in cars with single men. Many con-

  sidered the behavior of the flapper frivolous and licentious, yet young girls

  were literally dying to emulate the flapper style. There were stories that

  young girls committed suicide when their mothers would not allow them

  to adopt the flapper style.

  The fashions of the flapper, in retrospect, seem relatively tame com-

  pared with the fashions of fifty years later. The dresses were short, but

  they also tended to hide the woman’s figure. The dresses were loose and

  had a tendency to make the women who wore them look as if they had

  the figures of young boys. The dresses hid the fact that women had

  breasts. A woman would bind her breasts if they would disturb the flat-

  chested look. The short length of the skirt horrified many people who

  found the visibility of a woman’s leg to be scandalous, but young women

  saw the fashions as liberating. The new styles represented a feeling that

  women could do what they wanted to do. They could go where they

  wanted when they wanted, have jobs, postpone marriage, and generally

  live the same kind of life that men could live. Interestingly enough, men

  tended to wear more clothes than women did.

  This culture and attitude was partially shaped by literature and the

  increasing popularity of the moving pictures. Romance and love began to

  be seen as necessary for marriage. In the movies, couples who accepted

  arranged marriages tended to be unhappy and searching for love. Couples

  who sought love and companionship were portrayed as being happier than

  those who married for other reasons. Women were not only portrayed as

  being more independent than their mothers, they were also seen as sexual

  beings, not simply as mothers and wives.

  Men, according to the popular media, preferred a woman who would

  be an equal partner in a relationship. The movies even portrayed worka-

  holic men as being somewhat unattractive to women. The goal, according

  to the movies, was that a couple would be companions, sharing each

  other’s activities.

  In the print media, the tabloids became increasingly popular. These

  magazines and newspapers would report on any activity that exploited

  136

  THE INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY

  sensationalism. Other periodicals, such as Bernarr MacFadden’s Evening

  Graphic, specialized in photographs of scantily clad individuals. MacFa
dden

  was a health and fitness fanatic, who found the athletic human body

  beautiful. In many situations, the pictures would be of MacFadden’s own

  body, but athletic people barely clad or wearing body-hugging clothing

  were regularly featured. The publication encountered difficulties with a

  variety of obscenity laws, but it continued to depict photographs that

  highlighted the human form.

  MacFadden also began publishing ‘ women’s magazines’’ that empha-

  sized love stories. The heroines of the stories were supposed to be told by

  an ‘ ordinary’ American woman; however, the stories were created by writ-

  ers, many of them males, on MacFadden’s payroll. By the end of the

  1920s, each issue of the magazines was selling at a rate of more than

  2 million copies ( Jones 2005).

  GROWING UP IN AMERICA

  Although families were still the primary social unit, multigenerational

  families were becoming less frequent, but they were still common. Chil-

  dren, as a rule, tended to grow up in the communities in which they were

  born, although more and more families were moving to follow available

  work. Many families were headed by a woman at the beginning of the

  decade, primarily because of the death or disability of a husband or father

  during the war.

  Technology and a growing middle class allowed many young people to

  remain in school. By the 1920s, people advocated a high school education

  for all Americans. Although this would not become universal for several

  years, the idea that youths could remain in school without entering the

  workforce allowed youths to remain young longer than any generation

  before theirs. Adolescence, a new concept, also seemed to indicate that

  youths would clash with the beliefs and morals of their elders.

  The burgeoning group of adolescents, the young men who had

  returned from the war, and the young women who had supported them-

  selves and their families during the war did not want a return to the cul-

  ture in which their parents were raised. They flocked to the automobile,

  urban areas, and the newly developed illegal bars called speakeasies. These

  situations allowed women to experience a degree of sexual freedom that

  their ancestors never had, and they embraced that freedom with a ferocity

  that helped to change the American culture.

  In the 1920s, for the first time in history, children could dream of

  becoming famous in activities that did not even exist before they were

  The 1920s

  137

  born. Rural children could dream that they might one day live in a city.

  Both rural and urban children could dream that they might be movie

  stars, radio entertainers, or pilots. Children of the 1920s had options that

  their ancestors could never even imagine.

  The education of children became the center of a national debate dur-

  ing the 1920s. John Scopes, a biology teacher in Dayton, Tennessee, dared

  to teach Darwin’s theory of evolution in his high school classes. What

  originally was a local issue became front page news for most papers across

  the county. Although Scopes lost the trial, the case demonstrated the

  polarization of the country. Many educational systems noticed the contro-

  versy the trial caused and refused to purchase any text that mentioned

  Darwin or the theory of evolution. Textbooks would not change for

  another fifty years, although the controversy never diminished.

  Most young people in their teen years were spending more time in

  school and less in the workforce. They also had more leisure time. Much

  of that time was spent in frivolous activities such as seeing how many

  people could fit into a vehicle, swallowing goldfish, dancing for hours in

  dance marathons, sitting on flagpoles, or standing on the wings of planes

  while the plane was flying. Young people would try almost anything if it

  was considered ‘ new and different.’’

  In the 1920s, many American families were able to live a lifestyle that

  only the wealthy could afford in the nineteenth century. Although this

  improvement meant that life was simpler in many ways, life also became

  more dangerous for children. In the nineteenth century, most parents

  knew that their children would be safe in their communities: everyone

  knew each other, and stories about children’s behavior, good or bad, would

  ultimately be told to the parents. In the 1920s, parents were no longer

  sure what experiences their children would have.

  Urban life, although it brought improved technology and a major life-

  style change, also meant that one’s neighbors might not be the same from

  one year to the next. Parents who wanted to raise their children to prac-

  tice ‘ old-fashioned values’’ could not know whether the children’s teachers

  or classmates or even the children down the street might practice some

  new and ‘ horrible’’ custom, such as wearing makeup. With the rampant

  production of illegal alcohol, the crimes, and relatively flagrant sexual ac-

  tivity of the flapper and her beaux, parents were fearful of the activities

  that they could not control.

  There were some new activities for children and young people. Comic

  books became common during the decade. Superman became a hero for

  many boys, although many parents did not like the idea that Lois Lane was

  an independent woman. Young people had other, real, everyday heroes,

  138

  THE INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY

  such as Charles Lindbergh, Jack Dempsey, and George Herman ‘‘Babe’’

  Ruth, who were idolized for their individual skills and accomplishments.

  T H E

  1930S

  MARRIAGE AND FAMILY

  During the Great Depression, marriages were often postponed to save

  money by those with limited resources and, in some instances, rushed by

  those with greater financial capabilities. For those with little means,

  parents and families occasionally offered a ‘ parental subsidy to solidify the

  marriage contract’ (Modell 1989). This could include the option of living

  with in-laws, parents, siblings, or friends to save on expenses. Some

  favored a longer engagement to ensure a real commitment and a good

  match.

  Since the 1920s, activists had been advocating that couples should

  have thorough medical exams before marriage. They hoped that this

  would ensure that a new husband or wife did not learn about their loved

  one’s fatal disease on their honeymoon. In 1938, New York passed a law

  that required a medical exam and blood test before a couple could marry,

  and other states soon followed suit. Once married, couples generally

  stayed that way for both emotional and financial stability. Generally,

  divorce was too expensive for couples to consider. Gift registries were also

  established for the first time in department stores after a 1935 marketing

  campaign by Lenox China (Whitaker 2006).

  The most famous wedding of the era was nearly royal. The marriage

  of the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson, an American divorcee,

  made headlines when Windsor chose to abdicate the English throne to

  marry Simpson in 1937.

  The Depres
sion had a dramatic effect on the makeup of households.

  When Americans saw their savings evaporate, they often moved in with

  extended family members. This was especially true of young married cou-

  ples and elderly parents. Single people in their teens and twenties often

  lived with their parents to save money. Sometimes families would send

  their children to live with family members in the country. It was not

  uncommon for one parent to abandon the family when they faced the

  prospect of poverty.

  Many families had to sell the furniture and luxuries as they moved

  from place to place looking for work. Sometimes families would be forced

  The 1930s

  139

  to live in housing that was substandard by any measure. Many families to-

  gether would create small communities of nothing but old boxes or old

  crates or train cars. Plumbing and electricity were almost nonexistent, and

  women would have to cook much the same way that their grandmothers

  did, on open fires.

  For the first time in this century, men found their gender role chang-

  ing. With the scarcity of jobs, they frequently had time on their hands.

  Their wives often picked up extra jobs such as doing laundry or serving as

  maids. This disrupted men’s status as the breadwinner of the family,

  which angered most men. This role reversal was not welcomed by men or

  women. They usually tried to maintain a patriarchal household regardless

  of the economic struggles they experienced.

  SEXUALITY AND MORALITY

  The crash of 1929 and the Depression that followed seemed to dampen

  the sexual attitudes of the country. Many people were either looking for

  work or working long hours to maintain a living wage. Many people

  could not afford the more ‘‘frivolous’’ activities that they had enjoyed dur-

  ing the 1920s. The economic depression also helped fuel a mental depres-

  sion in men.

  The austerity brought on by economics kept many people close to

  home. Activities that remained popular were the movies and music. For a

  relatively small price, people could attend a weekend matinee and forget

  their daily lives for an hour or two. The actors in the films were attractive,

  and most of the movies were lavish, costume scenes, adventures, or

  fantasies.

  In the 1920s, movies pushed the boundaries of what many Americans

 

‹ Prev