Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al
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restrictions lifted, luxurious femininity became the theme for wedding wear
and formalwear. Two skirt silhouettes predominated, and they were at oppo-
site ends of the spectrum. At one end, voluminously full skirts were supported
by layers of crinoline petticoats. At the other end, form-fitting pencil-thin
skirts hugged the hips and legs. Both silhouettes emphasized the curve of the
hip. Hemlines were lower than earlier in the decade. Shorter formal skirts
reached the mid-calf, whereas longer ones grazed the floor.
Bodices
Bodices were close fitting and featured narrow, sloped shoulders, uplifted
breasts, and tightly corseted waists.
Neckline
Strapless dresses were very popular during the last years of the 1940s.
Sometimes short bolero jackets or wraps were worn over strapless dresses.
Even if they were not strapless, most evening dresses were low cut.
Square, sweetheart, and low-cut round necklines were common.
Sleeves
A variety of sleeve lengths were popular, from sleeveless to wrist length,
but typically sleeves were close fitting.
Decorative Details
Many of the decorative details during this time period emphasized femininity
or the curves present in the silhouette. Ruffle trim, lace insets, uneven hem-
lines, peplums, belts, and sequins were common forms of embellishment.
BUSINESS WEAR
Silhouette
Moving away from the boxy wartime profile, designers such as Christian
Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga created a profile with softer, longer lines.
The post-war silhouette included gored, swingy skirts topped with femi-
nine blouses or tailored jackets with nipped waists and soft, curvy hips.
1947–1949, The New Look
239
Dresses
Dresses epitomized the feminine New Look silhouette. They had fitted
bodices that tapered into small, corseted waists that curved into full ‘ bal-
lerina’ skirts that extended to the mid-calf. Round necklines and Peter
Pan collars were especially popular. Sashes were sometimes used to
emphasize the narrow waist. Although solid-colored dresses predomi-
nated, plaid, polka dot, and floral prints were popular also.
Suits
Suit jackets used shaped shoulder pads to achieve a gently sloping
shoulder. They were tightly fitted; darts nipped in the waist and peplums
and padded basques were used to create the softly curving hip. If the
jacket did not have a peplum, it usually ended at the top of the hip. Peter
Pan, notched, and cape collars were common. Sometimes a bolero jacket
was worn over a dress to create a suit-like style.
Skirts were either full and swingy or pencil thin. Both silhouettes
extended to the mid-calf. Typically, suits were made from rayon faille, taf-
feta, or wool crepe.
Separates
Blouses of the New Look had big bows, ruffles, and frills. Sleeves were
puffy, collars were full, and lace was added around the neckline. Cap
sleeves were common, also.
Full, swingy ballerina skirts had narrow waistbands. They had the nar-
row waistline of the silhouette, and pleats or gores gave the skirt its full-
ness. Typically, skirts were made from rayon crepe, rayon faille, and wool.
Black, gray, and dark brown were common colors for skirts.
Decorative Details
With the New Look, the architectural lines of the silhouette were the
focal point of the garments. The drape of the fabric was emphasized, and
seams and buttons were carefully placed for visual interest.
CASUAL WEAR
Silhouette
Casual wear, despite its emphasis on comfort, featured uplifted breasts, a
nipped waist, and curvy hips.
Dresses
Cotton sundresses were popular summer garments. Typically, they had a
full mid-calf-length skirt, nipped waist, and a low neckline or straps.
240
WOMEN’S FASHIONS
Some sundresses had halter necks or peplums. Two-piece sundresses
sometimes bared the midriff. In those dresses, a sleeveless or cap-sleeve
top was paired with an A-line or full skirt. Some two-piece dresses came
with shorts as an alternate to the skirt.
Separates
Blouses/Shirts. Typically, blouses had darts and seams to fit smoothly
against the contours of the torso. Simply tailored blouses were common.
They had Peter Pan, rolled, notched, or shawl collars, straight sleeves that
gathered into the cuff, and sometimes a breast pocket.
Pants. Denim pants, which were known as jeans, were an extremely
popular casual wear choice. Most styles had a tailored look with a narrow
waistband, a pleated front to give a round hip, and creases. Most jeans
were ankle length, but many young women rolled up the hem until it was
just beneath the knee. Other casual pants followed the same silhouette
and were usually worn with a belt. Generally, shorts were upper thigh
length and creased.
Other Separates. Sweaters were form fitting and either tucked into the
waist of skirts or pants or left untucked and accessorized with a belt.
Matching cardigans and pullovers were also popular.
Decorative Details
Silhouette. Boxy shoulders with loose blouse and wide-legged slacks gave
way to tightly fitting straight-legged slacks and tight sweaters. The New
Look for casual wear featured a modified hourglass appearance with fitted
waist and full skirt or flounced jacket just below the waistline, providing
more accent to the hips.
Dresses. Early in the decade, two-piece full-skirted dresses were popu-
lar in cotton with bright plaids, stripes, and gingham for summer, and
heavier wool suit styles for cooler weather. Skirts fell just below the knee
before the war, with full or pleated skirts. The New Look had an influ-
ence on casual dresses with fitted bodice and waist and very full skirt.
Separates. The New Look influenced sweater styles to be tighter, skirts
to be well below the knee, and slacks to fit the hips, better accenting tiny
waistlines and curvy hips.
OUTERWEAR
Coats
Coats followed the fashionable silhouette of daywear. The New Look
took advantage of the end of fabric restriction. Capes and coats included
hoods by 1947, again taking advantage of restrictions having been lifted.
1947–1949, The New Look
241
Raglan and kimono sleeves were popular. Three-quarter-length sleeves
were worn with long gloves. Full coats were flared in the skirt, and swing
styles became popular. Short jackets were popular because they could be
easily worn with full skirt styles.
Opulence being stylish again after the war, the late forties saw a
renewal in the use of fur and faux fur. Red fox and silver fox were popular
for swing coats, both in tuxedo style with slash pockets. Fur stoles or a se-
ries of martens or mink were draped over the top of a coat.
SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR
Swimwear
Both one- and two-piece swimsuits were popular during the late 1940s.
Generally, two-piece suits showed little skin between the bra and bottom.
Some suits had bottoms like sh
orts, whereas others had skirts. Cotton,
nylon, and Lastex were the most popular fabrics. Strapless, halter necks,
and suits with straps were common. The bra or bodice of the suit was fit-
ted and used darts for an uplifted bust line.
Golf
Typically, women did not wear special clothing to the golf course. They
usually paired a blouse and sweater with shorts, long pants, or a skirt.
Some golf blouses had extra pleats of fabric at the shoulders to accommo-
date a woman’s golf swing.
Tennis
On the tennis court, women wore button-front blouses or knitted tops
that were sleeveless or had short sleeves. These were worn with short
skirts or shorts. Most tennis clubs required players to wear white, but
women who played on public courts usually wore colored outfits.
Skiwear
When skiing, some women wore wool pants and short jackets, whereas
others wore snow suits, which consisted of narrow pants with a matching
narrow-waisted jacket.
UNDERWEAR AND INTIMATE APPAREL
Undergarments
By the end of the forties, ladies’ undergarments had transitioned into two
separate pieces, the bra and girdle. To achieve the New Look, women
wore confining undergarments that had not been worn since the 1910s.
242
WOMEN’S FASHIONS
New synthetic fabrics allowed women to avoid the painful boning and lac-
ing that had been required earlier in the century. Bras lifted the breasts
into the fashionable peaked shape, and strapless bras were worn under-
neath strapless dresses. Girdles, which were also known as foundation gar-
ments, were made from tight elastic panels that nipped the waist.
Attached to the girdle, there were garters to hold up stockings.
Petticoats were worn beneath full skirts. Permanently stiffened fabric
was attached to the hem of the petticoat. For evening and wedding
dresses, the full skirts were supported by hoop skirts.
Nylon stockings were once again available after the war and even came
back as an improved version. As a result of technologies developed during
the war, nylon stockings kept their shape better and were less prone to sags
and wrinkles. They transitioned from a seam up the back to a later seamless
version. Women were slow to appreciate the seamless version because bare
legs were considered inappropriate, and the presence of a seam was an indi-
cation of proper attire. As women grew tired of straightening twisted
seams, the seamless version gradually increased in popularity.
Sleepwear
Nightgowns were popular, but they had fuller skirts than they had during
the war years. The bodices tended to be close fitting and the gowns were
often made from sheer material. Two-piece pajamas were also popular.
HEADWEAR, HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS
Headwear
After the war, women continued to wear a vast variety of hat types. Some
styles that were fashionable during the war, including the beret and the
bonnet, continued to be worn. New angles on berets were popularized.
One style featured a pompon off the side, and another involved an over-
sized beret secured to the head with a hatpin.
Some new styles emerged, such as small net hats worn on the side of the
head and covered in an open net veil. By 1949, pillbox hats adorned with
feather or veils became popular. Cloches with bonnet brims were also
popular.
Hairstyles
As the decade came to a close, women began cutting their hair shorter
and arranging it in waves and curls close to the head. Short bangs
became popular, too.
1947–1949, The New Look
243
Cosmetics
After the war, women indulged in cosmetics that had not been available dur-
ing the war. Sun-kissed skin was popular, and pancake makeup, powder, and
rouge were used to achieve the ideal, flawless complexion. Max Factor intro-
duced the first smear-proof lipstick, Tru Color, in 1940 and panstick makeup
in 1948. Twist-up tubes of lipstick were used by most women, and they often
had exotic names such as Tahiti Rose and Black Magic (Pointer 2005). Nails
were worn long and lacquered.
FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR
Footwear
Post-war shoes came in all shapes and sizes. Most shoes were high heeled
and came in a variety of styles, including open toe, slingback, closed toed,
and sandals. Platforms remained popular through the decade. Shoes were
decorated with bows, punch-outs, multicolors, buckles, nail heads, alliga-
tor grain, and raffia. Women’s shoe wardrobes became extensive because it
became fashionable to closely match one’s shoes with each outfit.
Popular casual and sport shoes included canvas tennis shoes, loafers,
ballet slippers, and flat sandals.
Legwear
For most occasions, women wore stockings, or ‘ nylons’’ as they had become
known. The more popular style had a seam that ran up the back of the legs.
Short cotton socks known as anklets were also worn.
NECKWEAR AND OTHER ACCESSORIES
Jewelry
Necklaces usually fit close to the neck. Bracelets and earrings were com-
monly worn. Jewelry was frequently adorned with imitation pearls, glass
stones, and rhinestones.
Handbags
Handbags continued to be large shoulder bags as they had been during
the war. Leather began to be used as a material again, and, as metal
became plentiful again, clasp styles became popular.
Other Accessories
Women wore both leather and cloth gloves. Daytime gloves were usually
wrist length or slightly longer.
244
WOMEN’S FASHIONS
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