Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al
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such as pony or baby lamb. During the war, military-inspired coats
became popular.
Raincoats were made from waterproof fabric and fit loosely over cloth-
ing. The hem extended to a few inches above the ground. The coat could
be either single or double breasted.
Boys’ coats were either single or double breasted and had a jacket
lapel-style collar. The coat length went slightly past the knee. Dark gray,
olive green, brown, and navy blue were all common colors for boys’ coats.
Teen to College
Teenage girls wore coats that followed adult women’s fashions. They were
mid-calf to ankle length and cut full. Single-breasted coats often had low
hip-height button closures and lap-over fronts, which was a style that
drew the front of the coat across the body much like a double-breasted
coat without the extra row of buttons. Wide, embellished cuffs were typi-
cal, and collars came in a variety of styles, including notched, shawl, and
The 1910s
303
square collars. Typically, winter coats were made from heavyweight wool
or fur, and spring coats were made from linen, cotton, or silk.
During the war, the military influence was seen in young women’s
coats. Double-breasted styles became more popular, as did large collars.
Belted waistlines became more common in coats, and the waist moved up
to the natural waistline. The silhouette became fuller to accommodate the
wide-hipped skirts that were especially fashionable among young women.
Rubberized wool or cotton was used to make raincoats for teenage
girls and young women. The coats were cut long and full and often had a
turned-over collar that extended high up on the neck. The hem usually
extended to the ankle to protect the undergarments from the rain.
Teenage and college boys popularized the swagger-style coat, which
was usually made of cheviot and had a wide, full back and raglan sleeves.
Trench coats, which were popularized during the war, became fashionable
for young men.
SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR
Children to Preteen
Swimwear. Boys and girls under age 6 usually wore a one-piece knitted
suit. Made from wool, cotton, or a blend of the two, this type of swimsuit
was had a sleeveless tank combined with shorts that ended at the mid-
thigh. The neckline was V or round.
Older boys’ suits mimicked those of adult men. Typically, they were
one-piece suits comprising a long tunic over mid-thigh-length shorts.
They were sleeveless and could have round or V necks. Knit from wool,
cotton, or a blend, they usually came in dark colors with light-colored
bands along the sleeves, neck, and at the bottom of the tunic.
Older girls often wore swim dresses made from woven fabric with
knitted underpieces. Swim dresses fit like a loose, knee-length dress with
a waistband or belt. These dresses were sleeveless or had short sleeves that
were shorter at the shoulder than under the arm. Sometimes, these swim
dresses had collars. Some versions pulled over the head, whereas others
buttoned up the front.
Teen to College
Swimwear. Teenage and college girls wore the same types of swimsuits as
adult women. One of the predominant styles was a one-piece jersey knit
swim dress. This sleeveless garment fit closely in the bodice and had a
narrow mid-thigh-length skirt. This style was available in V neck, round
neck and sailor collar versions. Sometimes this style was loosely belted.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
Another style was a cotton weave mid-thigh-length dress over a knit
underpiece. Typically, it had a waistband or sash. This type of swim dress
either buttoned up the front or slid over the head. V necks, round necks,
sailor collars, and wide collars were typical. Young women would wear
cloth or knitted swimming caps and swimming shoes that tied around the
ankle like ballet pointe slippers.
Young men wore the same tunic-style swimsuits as adult men. There
were one- and two-piece versions made from knit cotton, wool, or a com-
bination of the two. The sleeveless tunic had either a V or round neckline
and ended at the hip. Short, mid-thigh-length shorts were worn under-
neath the tunic.
Other Activities. Baseball was an immensely popular sport in the
1910s, and high school and college teams were prevalent during this pe-
riod. Uniforms were often made from homespun, a durable, coarsely wo-
ven fabric that was lightweight enough for summer play. Uniform shirts
were cut loose and tucked into the pants. Typically, they had a wide collar.
The shirts were either pulled over the head and laced closed or buttoned
up the front. They came in a variety of sleeve styles, including full-length
sleeves with cuffs, elbow-length sleeves, and detachable sleeves.
Pants were cut very full at the hip and knees and came in padded and
unpadded varieties. The pants ended just below the knee and were usually
closed with drawstrings or elastic. Young men wore heavyweight wool
stockings that extended to the knee.
Various hat styles were worn, and they were usually associated with
the major league teams that wore the styles. One style had a cylindrical
crown that was flat on top and a visor brim. This style would be solid col-
ored or feature horizontal bands of color. In another style, the crown was
made from six pieces. Sometimes the six-piece style would have vent holes
and a cloth-covered button at the top of the crown where the pieces met.
When playing tennis, young men wore long white pants made from
flannel or duck. They rolled up the sleeves of their white shirts and wore
neckties. Young women wore loose-fitting untucked middy blouses over
simple mid-calf-length skirts. Frequently, they wore headbands or narrow
scarves to keep their hair out of their face. Both men and women wore
low canvas sports shoes with rubber soles.
HEADWEAR, HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS
Children to Preteen
Headwear. The hats for young girls had soft crowns and narrow brims
that were either upturned to various degrees or angled down. Hats were
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305
usually made from cloth, straw, or felt and trimmed with artificial flowers,
ribbons, lace, and ruffles.
Young boys wore a variety of hats and caps, including straw boaters,
sailor hats, caps with visors, caps that extended over the ears, and tam-o’-
shanters. Another popular style was the tyrolean hat, which had a high
soft crown, a narrow brim that was upturned on one side, and a few small
feathers tucked into the hat band.
Hairstyles. Young girls began to crop their hair into short bobs often
with bangs. Some young girls kept their hair long, and older girls usually
had long hair that was parted in the middle or on the side and pulled
back away from the face or pulled up into a low bun. Oversize, stiffened
bows were popular hair accessories. Young girls wore them on the oppo-
site side of their part or at the back of the head.
Younger boys often wore the pageboy style, curled under at the mid-
ear, and had th
ick bangs. Older boys wore their hair short, especially on
the sides and in the back. The sides were styled away from the face, and
the top was often slicked down.
Teen to College
Headwear. The hats worn by teenage and college women were like those
worn by adult women. Early in the decade, hats had wide brims and the
crowns were adorned with a profusion of feathers, fabric flowers, ribbons,
and scarves. As the decade progressed, brims narrowed and the crowns
increased in height. By the end of the decade, the crowns came down in
height, and decoration became more minimal.
Teenage and college men wore the prevailing adult styles. Straw boat-
ers with petersham ribbon hatbands were especially popular. Young men
also wore caps made from a variety of fabrics and leather.
Hairstyles. Teenage and college women wore their hair in styles that
were soft and wavy. Either parted in the middle or on the side, the hair
was often swept across the forehead. Both low and high buns were popular.
Tendrils of curls or waves were arranged over the ears. The marcel wave
was popular. It created a natural-feeling wave that could last up to a week.
For young men, the prevailing style was short, especially around the
ears and back. The hair at the crown of the head was either slicked back
or parted and slicked down. The hair’s natural wave was emphasized by
the shine left by pomade.
Cosmetics. Cosmetics were used, but they were subtle and not widely
admitted. Young women used pencils to darken their eyebrows. Powder
compacts became available. They usually held both powder and rouge in
peach and apricot colors. Some women used lip cosmetics.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR
Children to Preteen
Footwear. Infant and toddler children wore high-topped leather shoes
with button or lacing closures. Decorative or contrasting color uppers
were common. These shoes with either heelless or had a very short heel.
Girls wore low-cut leather shoes with a short, wide heel. One or more
straps secured the shoe to the foot. Oxfords, a style of shoe that had a
covered vamp secured with buttons or lace, were popular also. Open vamp
shoes with an ankle strap were also available.
Legwear. Young girls wore dark stockings during the winter and
lighter ones during the summer. Young boys wore dark knee-length socks
beneath their knickerbocker pants.
Teen to College
Footwear. Teenage and college women wore high and low styles of shoes.
Both pointed- and blunt-toed shoes were typical. High shoes either laced
up or had button closures. Low shoes were available in oxford or open
vamp styles. Early in the decade, open vamp styles had straps to secure
the shoe to the foot. By the end of the decade, many of the open vamp
styles did not have straps.
Young men wore high and low styles of shoes as well. Both styles had
button or lace closures. Dress shoes worn for formal or business occasions
often had decorated toecaps. A variety of high and low canvas shoes were
worn during the summer and for athletic activities.
Legwear. Young women wore dark cotton or wool stockings during
the day and light-colored silk stockings for formal occasions. Rayon
stockings had become available as an alternative to silk.
Young men wore cotton, wool, or silk knee-length socks that were
held up by garters worn around the calf.
ACCESSORIES
Floppy bow ties and smaller bow ties were commonly worn with young
boys’ suits. Teenage and college boys wore four-in-hand ties in plaids and
other patterns. They also wore bow ties.
In the winter months, preteen and teenage girls favored fur sets con-
sisting of a muff and collar or wrap. Both imitation and real fur were pop-
ular. The muffs tended to be large and round. A common wrap consisted
of a small animal wrapped around the neck and secured to the body of
the animal with a clasp at the animal’s mouth. Muffs made from velvet or
corduroy were also popular.
1920s, The Jazz Age
307
Teenage and college boys wore suspenders that buttoned into their
trousers. Leather belts with engraved buckles were also worn.
1920S,
T H E J A Z Z AG E
FORMALWEAR
Infants and Toddlers
Formalwear for such a young age was relatively unused, except for special
occasions such as christenings. Christening gowns for both boys and girls
were ornate and included frills, embroidery, and fine lace. Insertions and
edgings were frequently made with baby Irish lace or embroidery executed
on net bands.
Toddler-aged girls typically wore loose tunic dresses with a pair of
matching panties, commonly known as a ‘ bloomer dress.’’ The bloomers
were just barely visible below the skirt hems. These and other types of
dresses were made of sheer and soft materials such as crepe and georgette.
Initially, these dresses were trimmed with decorative elements, including
embroidery, smocking rosettes, and all manner of ribbon decoration, but
as the twenties progressed, simplicity became the norm. Trim was used
sparsely, focusing on ‘ delicate patterns and fine workmanship’’ (New York
Times 1928). All-white gowns were popular in the late twenties, especially
in dimity and white muslin.
Children to Preteen
Girls’ Ensembles. Couture designers were particularly interested in design-
ing formalwear for young and preteen girls. Most well-known of the cou-
ture children’s designers was Jeanne Lanvin, who first began designing for
her young daughter. She became well known for her ‘‘Mother and Daugh-
ter’ dresses (Laubner 1996). Other designers, such as Paquin, Chanel, and
Vionnet, also designed formal attire for young ladies.
Formalwear in general was worn by young girls and teens for special
occasions, such as first communion, holiday parties, and school dances.
First communion dresses were essentially child-sized versions of a wed-
ding dress, including a floral headpiece with a veil. These dresses featured
a great many frills and flounces. The twenties also saw a trend for white
or pale-colored chemise dresses of muslin, handkerchief linen, or dimity
decorated with hand needlework. These were worn by girls through age
14 and were slipped on over the head.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
For other special occasions, such as Christmas and holiday parties,
young girls often wore miniature versions of what their mothers wore to
the parties, with a complementary floral headband. A replica of the young
girls’ dress was also often made for her doll to wear at the party (Wilson
1925). Dances were popular for school-age girls, and their first was con-
sidered a very special occasion. Preteen and slightly younger girls’ dresses
of the 1920s were designed with short puffed sleeves and longer skirts.
Generally, formalwear offered a variety of styles based on adult silhou-
ettes, especially the robe-de-style or long-skirted ‘ period costume’’ (New
York T
imes, December 7, 1924). Deep cape collars and bateau necklines
were often seen on these formal gowns. Box and kilt pleats were used on
dresses that fell just above, below, or at the knee. Other skirt details
included flounced skirts and decorative pockets.
Girls’ formalwear was made of such extravagant materials as velvet,
satin, taffeta, crepe, tulle, and chiffon. Most advice columns recom-
mended that a child’s wardrobe have at least one black velvet dress for
special occasions. Trimmings focused on ribbon and embroidery. The
most popular ribbons were moire, grosgrain, or in bunches tied into floral
shapes. Embroidery in metallic threads such as gold and silver were
trendy, especially in chain stitch on pockets worn over velvet. Crewel em-
broidery was popular over white for holidays. Other decorative details
included nosegays of flowers, ruffles, and smocking or shirring.
Boys’ Ensembles. Boys’ formalwear followed adult styles more closely
than did girls’. The early twenties saw the continued interest in the Nor-
folk suit that had been popular in the teens. Younger boys continued to
wear shorts or knickers with a belted jacket. As the decade progressed,
the belt began to disappear. Older boys wore full-length pants with their
suit coats for formal occasions.
Teen to College
Girls’ Ensembles. Formalwear for teen and college-aged girls in the 1920s
closely resembled both adult and juvenile styles. Youthful-looking fashions
were popular for adults during this time, and so they were for those girls
making their debuts. Ribbon decoration and trim accessorized shorter
dresses worn to dances and special-occasion parties.
Boys’ Ensembles. For teen and college-aged boys of the upper classes, prep
school, naval, or military uniforms were favored in formal situations such as
dances and debuts. Those not in uniform wore suits resembling men’s wear.
CASUAL WEAR
Infant to Toddlers
Long flowing dresses, generally eighteen inches in length, were worn by both
boys and girls for the first month or two. Up through the toddler age, both
1920s, The Jazz Age
309
boys and girls wore short
smock-style dresses with match-
ing, bloomer-style undergar-
ments. Differentiation between
clothing for boys and girls
increased from the time babies