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Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

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by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)


  tos of costumes from the eighteenth century to the present, mainly of American

  fashion and clothing, but including designs from Asia, Greece, and Turkey.

  The museum also has a collection of ethnic dress. Its fashion collection was

  started by a donation of ‘‘fashion, historic costume, paintings and decorative

  arts from Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman, partners in Jerry Silverman,

  Inc., a manufacturer of better dresses’’ in New York City (from the website).

  P.O. Box 5190

  Rockwell Hall

  Kent, OH 44242 0001

  330-672-3450

  www.kent.edu/museum

  Los Angeles County Museum of Art

  LACMA’s Department of Costume and Textiles contains more than 25,000

  objects, from 100 BCE to the present, much of which is searchable online. ‘A

  Century of Fashion’ presents significant fashion designs by decade, from

  1900 2000.

  5905 Wilshire Boulevard

  Los Angeles, CA 90036

  323-857-6000

  www.lacma.org/

  Resource Guide, 1900–1949

  357

  Metropolitan Museum of Art

  The museum’s Costume Institute contains 30,000 costumes and accessories, from

  all over the world and from the last five centuries. The Met also provides a

  fashion blog on its website.

  1000 Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street

  New York, NY 10028 0198

  212-535-7710

  www.metmuseum.org/

  www.metmuseum.org/Works of Art/the costume institute

  Royal Ontario Museum

  The Patricia Harris Gallery of Textiles and Costumes presents highlights of

  the museum’s more than 50,000 artifacts that date from 1000 BCE to the present

  day.

  100 Queens Park

  Toronto, ON

  Canada, M5S 2C6

  416-586-8000

  www.rom.on.ca/

  Smithsonian Institute

  The National Museum of American History contains more than 30,000 artifacts of

  clothing, from the 1700s to the present day, ranging from ball gowns to T-shirts.

  4202 AHB/MRC-610

  Washington, DC 20560

  202-633-1000

  www.si.edu/

  http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/subject detail.cfm?key¼32&colkey¼8

  Tassenmuseum Hendrikje (Museum of Bags and Purses)

  Herengracht 573

  1017 CD Amsterdam

  þ31 (0) 20-524 64 52

  www.tassenmuseum.nl

  Victoria & Albert Museum

  Among the V&A’s holdings is a fashion, jewelry, and accessories section. The

  fashion collection covers ‘‘fashionable dress from the 17th century to the pres-

  ent, emphasizing progressive and influential designs’’ (from the website).

  Cromwell Road

  London SW7 2RL, UK

  þ44 (0) 20 7942 2000

  www.vam.ac.uk/

  358

  Resource Guide, 1900–1949

  Victoria & Albert Museum of Childhood

  Among its collections is the children’s costumes section, with more than 6,000

  items of children’s clothing, from the sixteenth century to the present.

  Cambridge Heath Road

  London E2 9PA, UK

  þ44 (0) 20 8983 5200

  www.vam.ac.uk/moc/

  Western Reserve Historical Society

  Includes costumes from the history of the northeastern part of Ohio, from the

  nineteenth century to the present.

  10825 East Boulevard

  Cleveland, OH 44106

  216-721-5722

  www.wrhs.org/

  WEBSITES

  About.com ‘‘Fashion History’

  http://fashion.about.com/od/historycostumes/Fashion History.htm

  Costume Gallery

  www.costumegallery.com

  Costumer’s Manifesto

  www.costumes.org/history/100pages/costhistpage.htm

  Exec Style Fashion Dictionary

  www.execstyle.com/Fashion Dictionary.asp

  Fashion-Era

  www.fashion-era.com/

  Fashion Planet

  www.fashion-planet.gr

  Haute History

  www.hautehistory.com/fashhist/index.html

  History of Fashion

  www.historyoffashion.com/

  Stylopedia Fashion Dictionary

  www.snapffashun.com/stylopedia/00 a.html

  Women’s Wear Daily Fashion Dictionary

  www.wwd.com/fashion-resources/fashion-dictionary

  Resource Guide, 1900–1949

  359

  PROFESSIONAL ORGANIZATIONS

  Costume Society of America (CSA)

  www.costumesocietyamerica.com/

  Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)

  www.cfda.com

  International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA)

  www.itaaonline.org/

  Cumulative Index

  Note: Boldface numbers refer to volume numbers; numbers followed by f refer to

  illustrations.

  The A Team (TV show), 2:82

  1920s, 1:67 68; New Deal and,

  Abstract Expressionism, 1:55, 1:78,

  1:44; rap, urban, and hip hop music,

  2:49, 2:51 52

  2:7, 2:76 77; rhythm & blues, Abzug, Bella, 2:135

  1:80 81; 1960s, 2:28 30; 1970s, Academy Awards, 1929, 1:69

  2:34 35, 2:134; 1980s, 2:40; 1990s Acetate, 1:166

  and 2000s, 2:45 46; 1970s music,

  Acrylic, 1960s and 1970s, 2:175

  2:69; 1950s rock ‘n’ roll, 2:53 54;

  Addams, Jane, Progressive movement,

  segregation, 1:20; during WWI, 1:7;

  1:4

  during WWII, 1:50

  Adolescence, new concept in the

  Air travel: first flight, Kitty Hawk,

  1920s, 1:136

  NC, 1903, 1:23; 1990s and 2000s,

  Adolfo, 2:35 36

  2:114 15

  Adrian, 1:76, 1:153, 1:157

  Albee, Edward, 2:63

  Advertising: 1900 1910, 1:92; 1920s,

  Alcohol consumption, 1980s, 2:110

  1:35; 1980s to present, 2:172 73;

  Alger, Horatio, 1:53, 1:57 58

  during WWII, 1:47; to young adults,

  Alien Registration Act of 1940, 1:51

  1970s, 2:105

  Allen, Woody, 2:63

  Afghanistan invasion, 2001, 2:43

  Alternative fashion movements:

  African Americans: baseball, 1:109 11;

  beatniks, 2:54 55, 2:125 26, 2:192,

  Black Power, 1960s, 2:204, 2:204f;

  2:192f, 2:257 58; Black Power, Cadet Nurse Corps during WWII,

  2:204, 2:204f, 2:267 68;

  1:50; early 1900s, 1:26, 1:33;

  Cyber-Goth, 2:244; Goth, 2:235,

  education for children in the 1900s,

  2:244, 2:295; Grunge, 2:236, 2:295,

  1:125; female writers, 1970s, 2:70;

  2:296f; Hippies, 2:203 4, 2:267,

  Great Depression and, 1:44;

  2:267f; Mods, 2:203, 2:266 67,

  Harlem, New York City, 1:39; music

  2:267; Neo-Bohemian and Retro-

  in the 1910s, 1:62 63; music in the Chic, 2:244, 2:304; New Wave, 361

  362

  Cumulative Index

  Alternative fashion movements

  1930s, 1:71 73; 1940s, 1:78 79;

  (Continued )

  1950s, 2:51 52; 1960s, 2:58 60;

  2:286; Preppies, 2:225, 2:285; Punk, 1970s, 2:67 68; 1980s, 2:74 75;

  2:226, 2:277, 2:285 86f; Rap and 1990s and 2000s, 2:83

  Hip-Hop, 2:226, 2:243, 2:286,

  Artificial fabrics, 1940s, 1:167

  2:295, 2:297f, 2:303 4;
Rastafarian, Arts and entertainment: 1900 1949,

  2:226, 2:286 87; Ravers, 2:296 97;

  1:7 9, 1:53 83; 1950 to present, 2:7,

  Rebels, 2:258; Valley girls, 2:225 26

  2:49 93

  American Bandstand, 1950s, 2:58

  Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Moderns,

  American designers: building morale

  Paris, 1925, 1:67

  during WWII, 1:154; challenging

  Ash can art, 1:53, 1:56

  Paris, 1920s and 1930s, 1:153;

  Ashley, Laura, 2:162

  costume, 1:165; knockoffs of French

  Asian Americans, 1990s and 2000s, 2:46

  designer fashions, 1:155; ready-to-

  Asian immigrants: after World War I,

  wear manufacturers, 1:155; 1950s to

  1:7; discrimination in the early

  present, 2:14

  1900s, 1:26

  American dream, 1:48

  Astaire, Fred and Adele, 1:69

  American Federation of Labor, 1930s,

  Auburn, David, 2:89

  1:40

  Automobiles: daily life, 1:9; dating

  American Fiber Manufacturer

  in the 1920s, 1:134; driving in the

  Association, 2:175

  1920s, 1:104 5; in early 1900s, 1:23

  American Indian Movement (AIM),

  1970s, 2:35

  Baby boom, 2:11, 2:132

  American Viscose Corporation, 1:166

  Bakke v. California, 2:35

  Anderson, Sherwood, 1:68

  Bakker, Jim and Tammy Faye, 2:36

  Andrews Sisters, 1:80

  Balenciaga, Cristobal, 1:154

  Animated movies, 1990s and 2000s,

  Banton, Travis, 1:76, 1:77, 1:153

  2:90

  Bara, Theda, 1:63, 1:65

  Anti-design ideology, 2:83

  The Barbarous Hun, WWI, 1:64

  Anti-form, 1960s, 2:59

  Barrie, Scott, 2:206, 2:206f

  Anti-functionalism trends, 2:83

  Barrymore, John, 1:68

  Aquino, Corazon, 2:39

  Barrymore family, 1:60

  Architecture, 1:57

  Basie, Count, 1:79

  Arlen, Michael, 1:68

  Basquiat, Jean Michel, 2:75

  Armani, Giorgio, 2:79, 2:163

  Bateman, Patrick, 2:87

  Armed Forces Radio Services (AFRS),

  Bathing suit ‘‘policeman,’ 1:204f

  1:84

  Bauhaus, 1:54; modernist art school,

  Armstrong, Louis, 1:39, 1:68

  1:67

  Arrangement in Grey and Black

  Beatles: arrive in U. S. 1964, 2:60,

  (Whistler), 1:61 62

  2:102; effect on hairstyles, 1960s,

  Art deco, 1:54, 1:66 67, 1:71;

  2:133

  orientalism and surrealism, 1:72

  Beatniks, alternative fashion, 1950s,

  Art movements, 1:54; 1900s, 1:55 57;

  2:54 55, 2:125 26, 2:192, 2:192f, 1910s, 1:61 62; 1920s, 1:66 67;

  2:257 58

  Cumulative Index

  363

  Beaton, Cecil, 1:67

  Bouton, Jim, 2:70

  Beauty contests, 1:163, 1:163f Bow, Clara, 1:65, 1:65f, 1:69

  Bebob, 1:55, 1:81

  Boy band fashions, 1990s, 2:85 86

  Beene, Geoffrey, 1960s fashion, 2:162

  Boy’s ensembles (children to preteen):

  Berard, Christian, 1:73

  casual wear: 1950s, 2:310; 1960s,

  Berendt, John, 2:87

  2:323; 1970s, 2:336 37; 1980s, Berlin, Irving, 1:59

  2:351; 1990s and 2000s, 2:364;

  Berlin Wall, fall in 1989, 2:39

  formalwear: 1950s, 2:306 7;

  Bernhardt, Sarah, 1:60, 1:63

  1960s, 2:320; 1970s, 2:332 33;

  Bernstein, Carl, 2:70

  1980s, 2:347; 1990s and 2000s,

  BET (Black Entertainment

  2:361

  Television), 2:75 76, 2:84

  Boy’s ensembles (teen to college):

  Betty Crocker, 1:103

  casual wear: 1950s, 2:312 13; 1960s, Bhutto, Benazir, 2:39

  2:325 26; 1970s, 2:339 40; 1980s, Big band era, 1:54 55, 1:73, 1:79

  2:353; 1990s and 2000s, 2:366 67;

  Big business, early 1900s, 1:4 5, 1:29

  formalwear: 1950s, 2:308; 1960s,

  Biker look, James Dean, 2:56f

  2:321; 1970s, 2:334; 1990s and Biological Agriculture Systems in

  2000s, 2:362; formalwear, 1980s,

  Cotton program, 1995, 2:178

  2:349

  Birth control pill, 1960, 2:130 31

  Brancusi, Constantin, 1:71

  Black Monday, 1987, 2:38

  Branding, 1980s, 2:37, 2:166, 2:172

  Black Power, alternative fashion, 2:204,

  Braque, Georges, 1:61

  2:204f, 2:267 68

  Breton, Andre, 1:71

  Blass, Bill, 2:35 36, 2:165

  Brice, Fannie, 1:69

  Blessing, Lee, 2:78

  Brinkley, Christie, 2:163, 2:172

  Blouses/shirts, women’s casual wear:

  Broadway, New York City: Great

  1900 1908, 1:175; 1909 1914,

  White Way, 1:68; Hair, end of

  1:184; 1914 1919, 1:191 92;

  1960s, 2:61f; light comedy, 1:61;

  1940 1946, 1:227; 1947 1949,

  operettas, 1:61; 1900s, 1:60; 1930s,

  1:239

  1:74; 1960s, 2:63; 1970s, 2:70;

  Bobbysoxers, 1:335

  1980s, 2:78; 1990s and 2000s, 2:88;

  Bodices, formalwear: 1900 1908,

  1950s musicals, 2:55; vaudeville,

  1:172; 1909 1914, 1:181 82;

  1:61

  1914 1919, 1:189; 1920 1930,

  Brooks, Louise, 1:69; 1920s hairstyle,

  1:198; 1930 1940, 1:212;

  1:208f

  1940 1946, 1:224; 1947 1949,

  Brown, Helen Gurley, 2:130, 2:171

  1:238; 1950s, 2:181; 1960s, 2:193;

  Brown v. Board of Education, 2:20,

  1970s, 2:205; 1980s, 2:216; 1990s,

  2:23, 2:125 26

  2:227; 2000s, 2:236

  Brownell, Frank, Brownie camera,

  Bodybuilding, 1970s, 2:106

  1:57

  Bonwit Teller, 1:159

  Bryan, William Jennings, Scopes trial,

  Boston Women’s Collective, 2:70

  1:38, 1:137

  Boutique clothing shops, early

  Buckley, William F., 2:19

  twentieth century, 1:158

  Bugliosi, Vincent, 2:70

  364

  Cumulative Index

  Burgee, John, 2:75

  1:299 300f; 1920s, 1:308 11, 1:309f; Burke, Billie, 1:68

  1930s, 1:318 21, 1:318f; 1940s, Burroughs’, Edgar Rice, 1:58

  1:328 30

  Bush, George, 2:5, 2:40

  Casual wear (children to preteen):

  Bush, George W., 2:5, 2:43, 2:45

  1950s, 2:308 10; 1960s, 2:322 23;

  Business management, 1920s, 1:35

  1970s, 2:335 37; 1980s, 2:349 50;

  Business wear (men): 1900s, 1:249 50;

  1990s and 2000s, 2:363 65

  1910s, 1:257 58; 1920s, 1:264 66;

  Casual wear (men): 1900s, 1:250 51;

  1930s, 1:273 74; 1940s, 1:280 81;

  1910s, 1:258 59; 1920s, 1:266 67;

  1950s, 2: 248f, 2:250 51; 1960s, 1930s, 1:274 76; 1940s, 1:282;

  2:260 61; 1970s, 2:269 71; 1980s, 1950s, 2:251 52; 1960s, 2:261 62;

  2:278 79; 1990s, 2:288 89; 2000s, 1970s, 2:271 72; 1980s, 2:279 81;

  2:298 99

  1990s, 2:289 90; 2000s, 2:299 300

  Business wear (women): 1900 1908,

  Casual wear (teen to college): 1950s,

  1:173 74; 1909 1914, 1:182 83;

  310 13; 1960s, 2:
323 26; 1970s, 1914 1919, 1:190 91; 1920 1930,

  2:337 40; 1980s, 2:351 54; 1990s

  1:199 200; 1930 1940, 1:213 15;

  and 2000s, 2:365 67

  1940 1946, 1:225 27; 1947 1949,

  Casual wear (women): 1900 1908,

  1:238 39; 1950s, 2:182 83; 1960s,

  1:174 75; 1909 1914, 1:183 85;

  2:194; 1970s, 2:206; 1980s, 1914 1919, 1:191 92; 1920 1930,

  2:217 18; 1990s, 2:228 29; 2000s,

  1:200 201; 1930 1940, 1:215 16;

  2:237 38

  1940 1946, 1:227 28; 1947 1949,

  Buy now, pay later, 1920s, 1:35

  1:239 40; 1950s, 2:183; 1960s, Byrne, Jane, 2:135

  2:194 96; 1970s, 2:208 9; 1980s,

  2:218 19; 1990s, 2:229 30; 2000s, Cabell, James Branch, 1:68

  2:238 39

  Callot Souers, 1:150 51; founded by Cather, Willa, 1:62, 1:68

  Gerber sisters, 1:150 52

  Catholic Legion of Decency (Hayes

  Calloway, Cab, 1:68

  Department), 1:75

  Calvin Klein, 2:165, 2:174, 2:207f Celanese, production of viscose, 1:166

  Camelot years, JCK presidency, 101

  Censorship, 1910s, 1:62

  Camille (Ibsen), 1:60

  Centers for Disease Control, teenagers

  Camp David Accords, 2:33

  and sexual intercourse, 2:151

  Canfield, Jack, 2:88

  Chanel, Gabrielle ‘‘Coco,’ 1:152;

  Capote, Truman, 2:63

  perception of, after WWII, 1:154;

  Cardin, Pierre, 2:162, 2:175

  suit worn by First Lady Jackie

  Carnegie, Dale, 1:74

  Kennedy, 2:101, 2:101f Carter, Jimmy, 2:18, 2:31, 2:33

  Chaplin, Charlie, 1:63, 1:69

  Cassini, Oleg, 2:24, 2:161; 1960s Chenier, Clifton, 1:81

  fashion, 2:162, 2:171 Castle, Irene Chernobyl disaster, 2:39

  and Vernon, 1:98, 1:98f

  Chesebrough, Robert Augustus, 1:195

  Casual Friday, 2:114 15

  Chicago, Judy, 2:67

  Casual wear (children): 1900s,

  Chicago Imagists, 2:67

  1:291 94; 1910s, 1:298 302,

  Child labor, 1:124 25, 1:130

  Cumulative Index

  365

  Childbirth, 1900s, 1:123

  1:267 68; 1930s, 1:276; 1940s, Children: as consumers, 1990s, 2:154;

  1:283; 1950s, 2:252; 1960s, 2:263;

  growing up in America, 1900 1949,

  1970s, 2:272 73; 1980s, 2:281;

  1:12 14; growing up in America,

  1990s, 2:291; 2000s, 2:300

  1950s, 2:124 25; health, 1990s,

  Coats (women’s outerwear): 1900 1908,

  2:155; missing, 1980s, 2:146

  1:176; 1909 1914, 1:185; 1914 1919, Children’s fashions, 1:289 339, 1:293f,

  1:192 93; 1920 1930, 1:201 2,

  2:305 84; sexual material in, 2:85

  1:202f; 1930 1940, 1:216 17;

  Children’s health, 1900s, 1:123 24

  1940 1946, 1:228, 1:230; 1947 1949, China: manufacturing business, 1980s,

 

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