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Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

Page 58

by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)


  Stravinsky, Igor, 1:67

  1:230; 1947 1949, 1:240 41; 1920s, Student Nonviolent Coordinating

  1:203 4, 1:204f; 1930s, 1:217;

  Committee, 2:25

  1950s, 2:186 87, 2:186f; 1960s, Style with Elsa Klensch (TV show),

  2:197 99; 1970s, 2:210; 1980s,

  2:82

  2:220; 1990s, 2:231; 2000s, 2:240

  Substance abuse prevention, 1980s,

  Synthetic fabrics: biodegradable, 2:178;

  2:111, 2:134, 2:142, 2:154

  fashion innovation of 1950s, 2:174;

  Suits, women’s business wear: 1900

  1960s and 1970s, 2:175; 1980s to

  1908, 1:173 74; 1909 1914, 1:183;

  present, 2:177

  1914 1919, 1:190; 1940 1946,

  1:225; 1947 1949, 1:238 39; 1920s, Tabloids, in the 1920s, 1:135 36

  1:199 200; 1930s, 1:214 15; 1950s, Taft, Robert A., Senator, conservatism,

  2:182 83; 1960s, 2:194; 1970s,

  2:19

  2:206 7, 2:206 7f; 1980s, 2:217;

  Taft, William H., 1:23, 1:28 30,

  1990s, 2:228; 2000s, 2:237

  1:250f

  Cumulative Index

  387

  Tailor shops, early twentieth century,

  Textile finishes, 1980s to present,

  1:158

  2:177

  Teapot Dome scandal, 1:33

  Theater: 1950s, 2:55; 1960s, 2:63;

  Technologies: after WWII, 1:46;

  1970s, 2:70 71; 1980s, 2:78; 1990s family life in the 1900s, 1:120 21;

  and 2000s, 2:88 89

  family life in the 1920s, 1:133;

  Theater and movies: 1900s, 1:60 61;

  innovations in the fashion business,

  1910s, 1:63 66; 1920s, 1:68 70;

  1:150, 1:165 67; 1910s, 1:97; 1920s, 1930s, 1:74 76; 1940s, 1:82 83. see

  1:35; 1990s, 2:41; 1950s to present, also Motion pictures

  2:10

  The^atre de la Mode, 1:154

  Teddy Boys, 2:203

  Theyskend, Olivier, Goth looks,

  Teen People (magazine), 1980s to

  2:85

  present, 2:173

  Thompson, Hunter S., 2:63

  Teenagers: as consumers, 1960s, 2:132;

  Tiananmen Square, 1989, 2:38 39

  defined after 1950, 2:13; 1980s

  Tiegs, Cheryl, 2:172

  movies focused on, 2:79; sexual

  Till, Emmett, 2:23

  intercourse, 1990s and 2000s, 2:151;

  Tin Pan Alley, 1:60, 1:62

  socializing in the 1950s, 2:99

  Titanic, 1:99 100

  Television: cable, satellite and digital,

  Tobacco, 1920s, 1:105

  2:91, 2:150; children in the 1990s, Tommy Hilfiger, 2:41, 2:164

  2:155; conservative morality in the

  Tops (children to preteen boys): casual

  1950s, 2:123 24; early development, wear: 1950s, 2:310; 1960s, 2:323;

  1:78; fashion communication, 1950s,

  1970s, 2:339; 1980s, 2:351; 1900s

  2:170 71; news broadcasting, 2:8;

  and 2000s, 2:364

  popular culture, 1950s to present,

  Tops (children to preteen girls): casual

  2:8, 2:50; representation of wear: 1950s, 2:309; 1960s, 2:322 23;

  minorities, 2:73; 1940s, 1:83 84;

  1970s, 2:336; 1980s, 2:350; 1900s 1950s, 2:57 58; 1960s, 2:66 67;

  and 2000s, 2:363 64

  1970s, 2:73 74; 1980s, 2:81 82;

  Tops (teen to college boys): casual

  1990s and 2000s, 2:91 93

  wear: 1950s, 2:312; 1960s, 2:325 26;

  Tencel, 1980s to present, 2:177

  1970s, 2:339; 1980s, 2:353; 1900s Tennessee Valley Authority, 1:42

  and 2000s, 2:367

  Tennis: men’s sportswear: 1900s, 1:252;

  Tops (teen to college girls): casual

  1910s, 1:260; 1920s, 1:269; 1930s, wear: 1950s, 2:311 12; 1960s,

  1:277; 1940s, 1:283; 1960s, 2:264;

  2:324 25; 1970s, 2:338 39;

  1970s, 2:273; 1980s, 2:282; 1990s, 1980s, 2:352 53; 1900s and 2000s,

  2:291 92; 2000s, 2:301; women’s

  2:366

  sportswear: 1900 1908, 1:176;

  Tournure drapery, 1:181f

  1914 1919, 1:193 94; 1940 1946,

  Transcendental meditation, 2:107

  1:231; 1947 1949, 1:241; 1920s, Transistor radios, 1950s, 2:57

  1:204 5; 1930s, 1:219; 1950s, 2:187;

  Triangle Shirtwaist Factory tragedy,

  1960s, 2:198 99; 1970s, 2:211;

  1:32

  1980s, 2:221; 1990s, 2:231; 2000s, Trigere, Pauline, 2:164

  2:240

  Trousers skirt, 1:181f

  388

  Cumulative Index

  Truman, Harry S., U. S. as the ‘‘world’s

  Valentino, 1960s fashion, 2:162

  policeman,’’ 1:49

  Valley girls, alternative fashion

  Truman Doctrine, postwar U. S.

  movement, 2:225 26

  foreign policy, 1:49

  van Doesburg, Theo, 1:66

  Turkish-style trousers, 1:182, 1:182f Vaseline, origin of mascara, 1:195

  Turlington, Christy, 2:163

  VH1, 2:75 76, 2:84

  Turrell, James, 2:83

  Video art, 2:83

  Twentieth century, historical landscape

  Video cassette recorder (VCR): cable,

  of early half, 1:3 18

  2:8 9; TV revolution, 2:8

  Twiggy, 2:172

  Video games, 1980s, 2:147

  Vidor, King, 1:70

  Undergarments (men): 1900s, 1:253;

  Vietnam War, 2:4 5, 2:18, 2:25, 2:28,

  1910s, 1:260 61; 1920s, 1:269 70;

  2:32 33; effect on 1960s social

  1930s, 1:277 78; 1940s, 1:284;

  occasions, 2:101; effects on youth,

  1950s, 2:254 55; 1960s, 2:264;

  1970s, 2:139 40; protests in 1960s, 1970s, 2:274; 1980s, 2:282 83;

  2:133

  1990s, 2:292 93; 2000s, 2:301

  Viola, Bill, 2:83

  Undergarments (women): 1900 1908,

  Violence: 1990s, 2:41; schools in the

  1:178; 1909 1914, 1:186;

  1990s, 2:154

  1914 1919, 1:194; 1940 1946,

  Vionnet, couturiere, 1:152

  1:231 32; 1947 1949, 1:241 42;

  Viscose (rayon), 1:166

  1920s, 1:206; 1930s, 1:210 20;

  Vitamins and minerals, 1920s, 1:103

  1950s, 2:187 88; 1960s, 2:199 200;

  Vogue (magazine): early 1900s, 1:16;

  1970s, 2:212; 1980s, 2:221 22;

  fashion communication, 1:162;

  1990s, 2:232 33; 2000s, 2:241

  Hollywood stylists featured in 1920s

  Unemployment, 1950s, 2:21

  and 1930s, 1:153; photography,

  Uniforms: military, men’s business

  1:162; 1920s, 1:67, 1:103; 1950s, wear: 1910s, 1:257 58; 1940s, 1:280;

  2:171; 1960s, 2:171; 1980s to 1980s, 2:279; 1990s, 2:289; women’s present, 2:173; during WWII, 1:164

  business wear, 1940 1946, 1:226 27,

  Volstead Act, 1:134

  1:226f

  von Stroheim, Erich, 1:70

  United Auto Workers, 1930s, 1:40

  Vonnegut, Kurt, 2:63

  United Mine Workers, 1930s, 1:40

  Voting Rights Act, 2:6

  United Nations, founded in San

  Francisco, 1945, 1:45

  Walesa, Lech, 2:38

  United Service Organizations (USO),

  Walker, Alice, 2:77

  1:8, 1:109

  Walking suit (men’s), mid-1920s,

  United States Motion Picture

  1:266f

  Production Code, 1:55

  Wallis blue, 1:213

  Updike, John, 2:87

&nb
sp; Wang, Vera, 2:164, 2:166

  War Advertising Council, 1942, 1:47

  Valentina, 1:157

  War of the Worlds (radio), 1:78

  Valentino, Rudolph, 1:65, 1:69,

  War Production Board, rationing

  1:270f

  during WWII, 1:45

  Cumulative Index

  389

  Warhol, Andy, 2:59

  Women: after WWII, 1:46; athletics in

  Wartime silhouette, WWI, 1:152

  1970s, 2:106; athletics in 1990s,

  Wash-and-wear, fashion innovation of

  2:117 18; attractive wife, 1950s

  1950s, 2:174

  television, 2:170; careers in the

  Washington, Booker T., 1:7, 1:26

  1950s, 2:123; changing role,

  Watergate scandal, 2:30, 2:70

  1900 1949, 1:10 11, 1:47; changing Webber, Andrew Lloyd, 2:78

  role, 1950s to present, 2:11 12;

  Wedding fashion: Diana Spencer and

  college education, 1910s, 1:129;

  Prince Charles, 1981, 2:108; Duke

  education for girls in the 1900s,

  of Windsor and Mrs. Wallis

  1:124; education for girls in the

  Simpson (1930s), 1:213; 1950s,

  1910s, 1:128 29; entering the

  2:96 97, 2:121; 1970s, 2:105

  workforce, 1:30, 1:46, 1:47, 1:129;

  Weight loss craze, 1980s, 2:110

  ready-to-wear industry and, 1:156;

  Welles, Orson, 1:78

  family role in the 1950s, 2:121;

  Wells, Rebecca, 2:87

  female artists, 1970s, 2:67; forty

  West, Nathanel, 1:74

  percent of workforce, 1969, 2:11;

  Westinghouse Electric Company, first

  higher education, 1970s, 2:104;

  commercial radio station, Pittsburgh,

  marriage in the 1900s, 1:117 21;

  1:70

  new millennium called age of ‘‘new

  Westwood, Vivienne, 2:162

  woman,’’ 1:120; right to vote, 1910s,

  Wharton, Edith, 1:62

  1:28, 1:97; right to vote, 1920s, Whistler, James McNeil, 1:61 62

  1:131; roles and responsibilities,

  Whistler’s Mother, 1:62

  1980s, 2:144; in the 1960s, 2:128; in White, George, 1:74

  1900s literature, 1:58; as targets of

  White flight to suburbs, 2:20

  advertising in the 1900s, 1:92; upper

  White slavery, the 1910s, 1:128

  class, 1900s, 1:90 91; well-dressed Wiener Werkstatte, 1:66

  woman in the 1960s, 2:128; in the

  Wilder, Thornton, 1:74

  workforce, 1970s, 2:127

  Williams, Tennessee, 1:81, 2:54 55

  Women’s Christian Temperance

  Williams, Thomas L., 1:195

  Union, 1:58

  Wilson, August, 2:78

  Women’s fashion, 1:169 245, 2:179 245;

  Wilson, Lanford, 2:78

  hat and gloves in the 1950s, 2:122;

  Wilson, Woodrow: advances during

  1950s entertaining, 2:98

  first term, 1:5; Clayton Antitrust

  Women’s International Terrorist

  Act, 1:29 30; League of Nations,

  Conspiracy from Hell, 1968, 2:130

  1:31, 1:36; New Freedom reform Women’s organizations: movement in

  program, 1:29; U. S. entering WWI,

  the 1960s, 2:135 36; 1900s, 1:120

  1:19, 1:28, 1:31; Wilson’s Fourteen Women’s Wear Daily (magazine),

  Points, 1:31

  1:161 62; 1980s to present, 2:173

  Winslow, Homer, 1:56

  Wood, Grant, 1:72

  Wolfe, Thomas, 1:74

  Woodstock Music and Arts Festival,

  Wolfe, Tom, 2:63, 2:77

  1967, 2:7, 2:102

  Woman’s Day (magazine), during

  Woodstock Music and Arts Festival,

  WWII, 1:164

  1994 and 1999, 2:84

  390

  Cumulative Index

  Woodward, Bob, 2:70

  Plan, 1:45; men’s fashion, 1:280 86;

  Woolworths, 1:159 60

  Pearl Harbor, 1:20, 1:44 45, 1:48;

  Working class families, depiction on

  racial discrimination during,

  TV, 2:91 92

  1:50 51; scientific advances, 1:10;

  World Disarmament Conference,

  treatment of Japanese Americans,

  1932, 1:42

  1:45; United States in, 1:5, 1:6,

  World War I (WWI): America in, 1:4,

  1:20; women in the workforce, 1:46,

  1:7, 1:19, 1:31; couture houses shut

  1:141 42; women’s fashion,

  down, 1:151; immigration to

  1:223 36

  America and, 1:7; mass production

  World Wide Web, 2:10 11, 2:41. 2:43;

  techniques, 1:9; men’s fashions,

  catalog and home shopping,

  1:256 63; ready-to-wear

  2:169 70; fashion communication,

  manufacturers, 1:155; slacker

  2:174; sexual content, 2:151

  marriages, 1:127; U.S. as a world

  Worth, Charles Frederick, 1:151

  power, 1:36; women in the

  Wright, Frank Lloyd, 1:57, 1:72

  workforce, 1:11, 1:96; women’s fashions, 1:188 97

  Yom Kippur War, 1973, 2:33

  World War II (WWII): collapse of

  Young Miss (magazine), 1960s and

  haute couture during German

  1970s, 2:171

  occupation of Paris, 1:153; economic

  YSL, 1960s, 2:161

  growth after, 2:3; effects on

  Yuppies, 79 80

  American life, 1:44 45, 1:140 41;

  Yves Saint Laurent (YSL), 2:52

  ended Great Depression, 1:46;

  fashion industry during, 1:153;

  Ziegfeld, Florenz, 1:64

  fashion magazines, 1:164; Glenn

  Zimmermann telegram, 1:28, 1:31

  Miller’s ‘‘In the Mood,’’ 1:79;

  Zippers, 1920s and 1930s, 1:166 67

  Hollywood films, 1:82 83;

  Zoot-suit riots, 1:336

  mail-order catalogs, 1:165; Marshall

  Zydeco, 1:81

  About the Contributors

  G E N E R A L E D I T O R

  Amy T. Peterson is the Vice-president of Course Development for Career

  Education Corporation. Her background in costume history research

  extends over twelve years, and she previously coauthored In An Influential

  Fashion for Greenwood Press. Her other publications include Mythology in

  Our Midst and the article ‘‘United Neighborhood Organization’ in The

  Encyclopedia of Chicago History. She received a Master’s degree in Public

  History from Loyola University and her Bachelor’s degree in History from

  Illinois Wesleyan University.

  C O N T R I B U T O R S

  Valerie Hewitt is a full-time general education instructor for Remington

  College

  Largo Campus in Florida. She has an M.Ed. from Trinity

  University in San Antonio, Texas. She has edited several dissertations in

  addition to teaching students how to write.

  Heather Vaughan is an independent fashion historian who has worked as a

  guest curator, researcher, and lecturer at institutions including the de Young,

  Phoenix Art Museum, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and the Met-

  ropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute. Recent work includes an arti-

  cle in the journal Dress as well as lectures for the American Culture/Popular

  Culture Association and the Costume Society of America’s National Sym-

  posium, among others.

  391<
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  392

  About the Contributors

  Ann T. Kellogg is a Senior Industry Consultant with Campus Management

  Corporation. Her background in costume history research extends over fif-

  teen years, and she previously coauthored In An Influential Fashion for

  Greenwood Press. Kellogg previously curated costume exhibits on fashion

  designers and costume history including Givenchy and Traditions and Tran-

  sitions for the Chicago Historical Society. She received both a Master’s

  degree and a Bachelor’s degree in Costume and Textile History from

  Michigan State University.

  Lynn W. Payne is Executive Director of Higher Education for Renaissance

  Strategies and previously was Vice President of Education for Career Edu-

  cation Corporation, Vice President of Academic and Student Affairs at

  American InterContinental University Online, and assistant professor of

  marketing and management at Langston University. She received her Ph.D.

  degree from the University of Oklahoma, M.B.A. from Golden Gate

  University, and B.S. from James Madison University.

  Womens’ swimwear in 1918. [Scala/Art Resource, NY]

  Two flappers gossip at a bar, 1928. [Mary Evans

  Dress (Robe de Style), 1924-1925. [The Metropolitan

  Picture Library/Alamy]

  Museum of Art/Art Resource]

  Stylish tunic dresses worn with fur stoles, 1915.

  [Mary Evans Picture Library/Alamy]

  Jantzen bathing suits, 1948. [Mary Evans Picture

  Library/Alamy]

  A Chinese influenced black dress by Madeleine Vionnet, 1923.

  [Mary Evans Picture Library/Alamy]

  A day suit, c. 1909. [Mary Evans Picture Library/Alamy]

  Socks were colorful during the 1940s. They came in argyle, chevron, and

  diamond patterns. Elastic was added to the tops of socks, so garters were no

  longer necessary. [Lordprice Collection/Alamy]

  Examples of girls’ and boy’s clothing in the 1940s. [ClassicStock/Alamy]

  A 1910 advertisement for mens’ shirts.

  An American fashion ilustration from 1935

  [Lordprice Collection/Alamy]

  shows men enjoying after-dinner brandy and

  cigars. [Lordprice Collection/Alamy]

  An advertising postcard for Abel Morrall’s

  Shirley Temple in the 1939 film The Little

  Hat Pins, c. 1905 [Amoret Tanner/Alamy]

  Princess. [Photofest, Inc.]

  Mens’ Army uniforms during World War I. [Library of

  Congress]

  A Gibson Girl in evening dress, with

  decolletage neckline and pompadour hair

  style, c.1901. [Library of Congress]

 

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