Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking
Page 28
The Piedmontese/Milanese/Bolognese style is more compatible with substantial flavor bases founded on cheese, sausage, game, and wild mushrooms, whereas the Venetian risotto all’onda achieves great delicacy with seafood and spring vegetables.
Serving temperature Among the myths associated with risotto there is the one that you must eat it piping hot, as it comes from the pot. Unlike pasta, risotto tastes better when it has rested on your plate a minute or so. When Italians are served risotto, they often spread it on their plate from the center toward the rim, to dissipate some of the steam.
Risotto with Parmesan Cheese
THIS BASIC white risotto is the simplest way to prepare the dish, and for many, the finest. Good as it is, it can be even better when blanketed by shaved white truffles.
For 6 servings
5 cups Basic Homemade Meat Broth, OR 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 4 cups water
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons onion chopped very fine
2 cups Arborio OR other imported Italian risotto rice
½ heaping cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
OPTIONAL: ½ ounce (or more if affordable) fresh OR canned white truffle
Salt, if required
1. Bring the broth to a very slow, steady simmer on a burner near where you’ll be cooking the risotto.
2. Put 1 tablespoon of butter, the vegetable oil, and the chopped onion in a broad, sturdy pot, and turn on the heat to medium high. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes translucent, then add the rice. Stir quickly and thoroughly until the grains are coated well.
3. Add ½ cup of simmering broth and cook the rice, stirring constantly with a long wooden spoon, wiping the sides and bottom of the pot clean as you stir, until all the liquid is gone. You must never stop stirring and you must be sure to wipe the bottom of the pot completely clean frequently, or the rice will stick to it.
4. When there is no more liquid in the pot, add another ½ cup, continuing always to stir in the manner described above. Maintain heat at a lively pace.
5. Begin to taste the rice after 20 minutes of cooking. It is done when it is tender, but firm to the bite. As it approaches that stage, gradually reduce the amount of liquid you add, so that when it is fully cooked, it is slightly moist, but not runny.
6. When the rice is about 1 or 2 minutes away from being fully cooked, add all the grated Parmesan and the remaining butter. Stir constantly to melt the cheese and wrap it around the grains. Off heat, taste and correct for salt, stirring after adding salt.
7. Transfer to a platter and serve promptly. Shave the optional white truffle over it, using either a truffle slicer or a swiveling-blade vegetable peeler. Some prefer to shave the truffle over each individual portion.
Risotto with Saffron, Milanese Style
For 6 servings
5 cups Basic Homemade Meat Broth, OR 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 4 cups water
2 tablespoons diced beef marrow, pancetta, or prosciutto
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons onion chopped very fine
2 cups Arborio or other imported Italian risotto rice
⅓ teaspoon powdered saffron OR ½ teaspoon chopped saffron strands dissolved in 1 cup hot broth or water
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
⅓ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese, plus additional cheese at the table
Salt, if required
1. Bring the broth to a very slow, steady simmer on a burner near where you’ll be cooking the risotto.
2. Put the diced marrow, pancetta, or prosciutto, 1 tablespoon of butter, the vegetable oil, and the chopped onion in a broad, sturdy pot, and turn on the heat to medium high. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes translucent, then add the rice. Stir quickly and thoroughly until the grains are coated well.
3. Add ½ cup of simmering broth, and cook the rice following the directions in Steps 3 and 4 of the basic white risotto.
4. When the rice has cooked for 15 minutes, add half the dissolved saffron. Continue to stir, and when there is no more liquid in the pot, add the remaining saffron.
5. Finish cooking the rice, stirring always, until it is tender, but firm to the bite, and there is no more liquid in the pot.
6. Off heat, add a few grindings of pepper, the remaining butter, all the grated Parmesan, and stir thoroughly until the cheese melts and clings to the rice. Taste and correct for salt. Transfer to a platter and serve promptly with additional grated cheese on the side.
Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms
For 6 servings
5 cups Basic Homemade Meat Broth, OR 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 4 cups water
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons onion chopped very fine
2 cups Arborio or other imported Italian risotto rice
A small packet OR 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, reconstituted
Filtered water from the mushroom soak
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
⅓ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese, plus additional cheese at the table
Salt, if required
1. Bring the broth to a very slow, steady simmer on a burner near where you’ll be cooking the risotto.
2. Put 1 tablespoon of the butter, the vegetable oil, and the chopped onion in a broad, sturdy pot, and turn on the heat to medium high. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes translucent, then add the rice. Stir quickly and thoroughly until the grains are coated well.
3. Add ½ cup of simmering broth, and cook the rice following the directions in Steps 3 and 4 of the basic white risotto recipe.
4. When the rice has cooked for 10 minutes, add the reconstituted mushrooms and ½ of their filtered water. Continue to stir and when there is no more liquid, add more of the mushroom water, stirring, letting it evaporate, and adding more, until you have used it all up.
5. Finish cooking the rice with broth or, if you have no more broth, with water. Cook the rice until it is tender, but firm to the bite, with no more liquid remaining in the pot.
6. Off heat, add a few grindings of pepper, the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter, and all the grated Parmesan, and stir thoroughly until the cheese melts and clings to the rice. Taste and correct for salt. Transfer to a platter and serve promptly with additional grated cheese on the side.
Risotto with Asparagus
For 6 servings
1 pound fresh asparagus
Salt
Enough Basic Homemade Meat Brothe, OR canned beef broth diluted with water to provide at least 6 cups cooking liquid when added to the water used for blanching the asparagus
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons onion chopped very fine
2 cups Arborio or other imported Italian risotto rice
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
¼ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1 tablespoon parsley chopped very fine
1. Cut off 1 inch or more from the butt end of the asparagus spears to expose the moist part of each stalk, then pare the asparagus and wash it.
2. Choose a pan that can accommodate all the asparagus lying flat. Put in enough water to come 2 inches up the sides of the pan, and 1 tablespoon salt. Turn on the heat to medium high and when the water boils, slip in the asparagus and cover the pan. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes after the water returns to a boil, depending on the freshness and thickness of the stalks. Drain the asparagus when tender, but still firm, without discarding their water. Set aside to cool.
3. When the asparagus is cool enough to handle, cut off the tips of the spears about 1¼ to 1½ inches from the top and set aside, and cut the rest of the spears into ½-inch pieces, discarding any portion of the bottoms that seems particularly tough and stringy.
4. Add enough b
roth to the asparagus blanching water to make about 6 cups, and bring it to a very slow, steady simmer on a burner near where you’ll be cooking the risotto.
5. Put 1 tablespoon of butter, the vegetable oil, and the chopped onion in a broad, sturdy pot, turn on the heat to medium high, and cook the onion, stirring, until it becomes translucent. Add the cut-up asparagus stalks, but not the spear tips. Cook for a minute or so, stirring thoroughly to coat the asparagus well.
6. Add the rice, stirring quickly and thoroughly until the grains are coated well. Add ½ cup of the simmering broth and asparagus water, and cook the rice following the directions in Steps 3 and 4 of the basic white risotto recipe.
7. Cook the rice until it is tender, but firm to the bite, with barely enough liquid remaining to make the consistency somewhat runny. Off heat, add the reserved asparagus tips, a few grindings of pepper, the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, and all the grated Parmesan, and stir thoroughly until the cheese melts and clings to the rice. Taste and correct for salt. Mix in the chopped parsley. Transfer to a platter and serve promptly.
Risotto with Celery
WHEN WORKING with this recipe, do not discard all the leafy celery tops because some will be cooked with the risotto from the start to accentuate the celery aroma. Part of the stalk goes in later to retain some of its textural interest.
For 6 servings
5 cups Basic Homemade Meat Broth, OR 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 4 cups water
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup chopped onion
2 cups celery stalk diced very fine
1 tablespoon chopped leafy tops of the celery heart
Salt
2 cups Arborio or other imported Italian risotto rice
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
⅓ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1. Bring the broth to a very slow, steady simmer on a burner near where you’ll be cooking the risotto.
2. Put 2 tablespoons of the butter, the vegetable oil, and the chopped onion in a broad, sturdy pot, turn on the heat to medium high. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes translucent, then add half the diced celery stalk, all the chopped leaves, and a pinch of salt. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring frequently to coat the celery well.
3. Add the rice, stirring quickly and thoroughly until the grains are coated well. Add ½ cup of simmering broth, and cook the rice following the directions in Steps 3 and 4 of the basic white risotto recipe.
4. When the rice has cooked for 10 minutes, add the remaining diced celery, and continue to stir and add broth as needed, a little at a time.
5. Cook the rice until it is tender, but firm to the bite, with barely enough liquid remaining to make the consistency somewhat runny. Off heat, add a few grindings of pepper, the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter, and all the grated Parmesan, and stir thoroughly until the cheese melts and clings to the rice. Taste and correct for salt. Mix in the chopped parsley. Transfer to a platter and serve promptly.
Risotto with Zucchini
For 6 servings
4 medium or 6 small zucchini
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 tablespoons onion chopped coarse
½ teaspoon garlic chopped very fine
Salt
5 cups Basic Homemade Meat Broth, OR 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 4 cups water
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups Arborio or other imported Italian risotto rice
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
¼ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese, plus additional cheese at the table
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1. Soak the zucchini in cold water, scrub them clean, and cut off both ends. Cut the cleaned zucchini into disks ½ inch thick.
2. Put all the vegetable oil and the chopped onion in a broad, sturdy pot, and turn on the heat to medium high. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes translucent, then add the chopped garlic. When the garlic becomes lightly colored, add the sliced zucchini, and turn the heat down to medium low. Cook for about 10 minutes, turning the zucchini from time to time, then add a pinch of salt. Continue cooking until the zucchini become colored a rich gold, another 15 minutes or so.
3. Bring the broth to a very slow, steady simmer on a burner near where you’ll be cooking the risotto.
4. Add 1 tablespoon butter to the zucchini and turn on the heat to high. Add the rice, stirring quickly and thoroughly until the grains are coated well.
5. Add ½ cup of simmering broth, and cook the rice following the directions in Steps 3 and 4 of the basic white risotto recipe.
6. Cook the rice until it is tender, but firm to the bite, with barely enough liquid remaining to make the consistency somewhat runny. Off heat, add a few grindings of pepper, the remaining tablespoon of butter, and all the grated Parmesan, and stir thoroughly until the cheese melts and clings to the rice. Taste and correct for salt. Mix in the chopped parsley. Transfer to a platter and serve promptly with grated Parmesan on the side.
Ahead-of-time note The recipe may be cooked several hours or a day or two in advance up to this point. If resuming the same day, do not refrigerate the zucchini. When refrigerating, store tightly covered with plastic wrap.
Risotto with Spring Vegetables, Tomato, and Basil
For 6 servings
1 medium or 2 small zucchini
5 cups Basic Homemade Meat Broth, OR 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 4 cups water
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
⅓ cup chopped onion
⅓ cup carrot diced very fine
⅓ cup celery diced very fine
Salt
2 cups Arborio or other imported Italian risotto rice
½ cup shelled fresh young peas OR thawed frozen peas
1 ripe, firm, fresh tomato, skinned raw with a peeler, seeded, and diced fine
⅓ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
6 or more fresh basil leaves, washed and shredded by hand
1. Soak the zucchini in cold water, scrub them clean, and cut off both ends. Dice them very fine.
2. Bring the broth to a very slow, steady simmer on a burner near where you’ll be cooking the risotto.
3. Put 2 tablespoons of the butter, all the vegetable oil, and the chopped onion in a broad, sturdy pot, turn on the heat to medium high, and cook the onion until it becomes colored a fine golden brown.
4. Add the diced carrot and celery, and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring from time to time to coat them well. Add the diced zucchini, one or two pinches of salt, and cook for 8 minutes more, stirring occasionally.
5. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, remove half the vegetables in the pot, and set aside. Turn on the heat to high. Add the rice, stirring quickly and thoroughly until the grains are coated well. If using fresh peas, add now.
6. Add ½ cup of simmering broth, and cook the rice following the directions in Steps 3 and 4 of the basic white risotto recipe.
7. When the rice has cooked for 20 to 25 minutes, add the cooked vegetables you had set aside earlier, the diced tomato, and the thawed frozen peas, if you are not using the fresh. Cook the rice until it is tender, but firm to the bite, with barely enough liquid remaining to make the consistency somewhat runny. Off heat, add the remaining tablespoon of butter, and all the grated Parmesan, and stir thoroughly until the cheese melts and clings to the rice. Taste and correct for salt. Mix in the shredded basil. Transfer to a platter and serve promptly.
Paniscia—Risotto with Vegetables and Red Wine
Paniscia is a merger of two lusty dishes: A risotto, cooked with red wine, and a generously endowed minestrone, the mighty vegetable soup from Novara.
In Novara, one of the ingredients of the dish is soft salami made from donkey meat, salam d’la duja. To replace, look for a high-quality, tender salami that is neither too spicy nor
too garlicky. To hew as closely as possible to the original character of la paniscia, the wine should be a good Piedmontese red, a Spanna, a fine Barbera, a Dolcetto. Should you be unable to find them, look for a good Zinfandel, a Shiraz, or a Côte du Rhône.
For 6 servings
¼ cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoons chopped onion
¼ cup tender, mild salami chopped fine (see prefatory remarks above)
2 cups Arborio or other imported Italian risotto rice
2 cups dry red wine (see prefatory remarks above)
2½ cups Novara’s Bean and Vegetable Soup.
1 tablespoon butter
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
Salt
Freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese at the table
1. Put all the vegetable oil, the chopped onion, and salami in a broad, sturdy pot, turn on the heat to medium high, and cook, stirring from time to time, until the onion becomes colored a deep gold.
2. Add the rice, stirring quickly and thoroughly until the grains are coated well. Add ½ cup of wine, and cook the rice following the directions in Steps 3 and 4 of the basic white risotto recipe. Add more wine, a little at a time, when needed. When you have used up the wine, switch to warm water.
3. When the rice has cooked for 15 minutes, add the bean and vegetable soup, mixing it in thoroughly. Continue cooking the rice with a half cupful of water at a time, stirring always. Cook the rice until it is tender, but firm to the bite, with barely enough liquid remaining to make the consistency somewhat runny. Off heat, add the tablespoon of butter and several liberal grindings of pepper, taste and correct for salt, stir well, and transfer to a serving platter. Allow to settle for a few minutes, then serve with grated Parmesan on the side.