Craft Coffee
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JAMAICA
600 to 2,000 masl | 12,000 bags | mostly washed
Jamaica is the third-largest Caribbean island and home to some of the most expensive specialty coffee on the planet: Blue Mountain. The coffee is named after the (government-designated) region where it’s grown, located toward the northeast portion of the island. The elevation of these mountains isn’t that high, but it’s said that the almost-perpetual blue fog slows down the development of the bean (and increases the flavor). Like Kona coffee in Hawai’i, Blue Mountain is a type of typica that grows under the watchful eye of Jamaican coffee producers and a regulatory board. It’s said to have superb cup qualities, including rich flavors, bright acidity, and great body and sweetness. Others say Jamaican coffee lacks the complexity and juiciness that people have come to expect of high-quality specialty beans. Japan snatches up a lot of Jamaica’s crop each year, although some of it makes it to the United States. Because it’s so rare, fraudulent Blue Mountain labeling is not uncommon.
NICARAGUA
800 to 1,500 masl | 1,810,000 bags | mostly washed
Nicaragua is a relative newcomer to the coffee industry, not getting its start until after a long period of political and economic instability ended in the 1990s. In fact, Nicaraguan coffee imports were banned in the United States until 1990. Nicaragua struggled to compete on the fierce commodity markets and has since rebuilt its coffee program to focus more on high-quality, specialty-grade coffee. Nicaragua, the largest country in Central America, produces a spectrum of coffee across a variety of microclimates in three regions. The North Central region produces the majority (more than 80 percent), and two of the better-known departments, Matagalpa and Jinotega, with their volcanic soil and tropical climates, are contained within it. The next-biggest producing region, the Northeast, accounts for only about 14 percent of total production. Nueva Segovia and Estelí are two of the more well-regarded departments in this region. The last region, the South Pacific, produces the least amount of coffee and has a lower elevation than the other regions. An estimated 95 percent of Nicaraguan coffee is shade-grown across 108,000 hectares. Much of this coffee is certified organic. Nicaraguan coffees tend to hew closely to the typical Central American mode: moderate acidity and body with a range of citrus-fruit notes. Coffees from the Nueva Segovia area have established a reputation for their chocolaty notes as well.
PANAMA
1,200 to 2,000 masl | 43,000 bags | washed and natural
About 80 percent of Panamanian coffee production takes place in the west around the town of Boquete in the mountainous region of Chiriquí, where more than 100 years of coffee tradition inform the cultivation of some of the finest coffees in the world. On the west side of Chiriquí, closer to the Costa Rican border, lies the city of Volcán, around which volcanic soil and warm sea breezes encourage coffee production. Panama has made a concerted effort to prove itself in the specialty coffee market. In 1996, a small group of coffee producers formed the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama (SCAP) to promote high-quality coffee. Today, the organization has more than quadrupled in size and has earned global recognition for its coffees. In the early 2000s, the Panamanian government set aside 8,000 hectares for “quality” and “ecological” coffees. Gesha, one of the finest varietals in the world, thrives in Panama, and many Panamanian producers, like the famed Hacienda La Esmeralda, have dedicated most of their acreage to exclusively cultivating this bean. In 2015, Hacienda La Esmeralda earned the highest bid—a whopping $140.10 per pound—for its gesha at SCAP’s annual Best of Panama auction. The best Panamanian geshas bring out the best in the beans: jasmine-like floral aromas, bright citrus acidity, and distinct bergamot notes. Panama’s unique landscape provides various microclimates capable of producing flavor notes as diverse as vanilla and maple or citrus and wine.
South America
BOLIVIA
155 to 2,300 masl | 46,000 bags | mostly washed
This landlocked country in central South America is just starting to gain recognition in the specialty coffee market after years of selling lower-quality coffee destined for commercial blends. About 95 percent of Bolivia’s coffee production takes place in the Yungas region along the eastern slopes of the Andes Mountains. Other growing regions include Cochabamba, Santa Cruz, and Tarija. While large commercial estates still exist, the government has taken strides to return tracts of land to small producers, who now cultivate 85 to 95 percent of Bolivia’s coffee, most of which is grown organically. Although the country has all the necessary qualities (climate, rainfall, elevation) to produce high-quality beans, its lack of infrastructure, technology, and efficient export systems makes growing specialty coffee difficult. Producers are also getting out of the coffee game in favor of more stable ventures, like coca, the plant used to make cocaine, at an alarming clip. Bolivia’s coffee exports reached a 10-year record low in 2014–15. That said, Bolivian specialty coffee does show up occasionally in the United States, and infrastructure is improving through programs designed to encourage farmers to grow coffee, rather than coca, as a cash crop. The best Bolivian coffees are said to be sweet, clean, and well balanced.
BRAZIL
400 to 1,600 masl | 36,867,000 bags | natural and pulped natural
Brazil is the biggest coffee producer in the world, accounting for about 30 percent of the world’s coffee, and it churns out everything from low-grade commercial coffee to fine specialty beans. Brazil is also the biggest country in South America, which means the terroir across its six major producing regions (Minas Gerais, São Paulo, Espírito Santo, Bahia, Paraná, and Rondônia, all with various subregions) can vary dramatically. However, Brazil lacks the high elevations you see in Colombia, East Africa, and Central America, which contributes to the beans’ mild acidity. Brazilian producers also tend to use natural and pulped natural processes, which add sweetness and complexity to make up for the lack of acid and which contribute to the national flavor. If you don’t like acidic coffee, a Brazilian coffee is an approachable alternative. Washed Brazilian coffees do exist, but they are somewhat rare. Although Brazilian coffee gained a strong reputation for quality in the early 2000s, it seems like professionals tend to have mixed feelings about Brazilian coffees now. For what it’s worth, some of Andreas’s favorite single-origin espresso in recent years has come from Brazil. Brazilian coffees are certainly worth trying, especially if you prefer mild coffee.
COLOMBIA
800 to 1,900 masl | 12,281,000 bags | mostly washed
Colombia, which invented the idea of single-origin coffee before specialty coffee existed, competes with Vietnam for the title of second-most productive coffee country in the world, although it ranks first in terms of arabica (97 percent of Vietnam’s coffee crop is robusta, and the country is only beginning to develop specialty coffees). Colombian beans generally do not hold as much cachet as, say, Kenyan or Guatemalan beans, but with three mountain ranges and one of the most biodiverse landscapes in the world, Colombia is capable of producing high-quality coffees. As of 2016, nearly 40 percent of all Colombian coffee exports were specialty grade. Unlike those in many other countries, most Colombian producers have processing mills on their property, which helps them control quality; at the same time, they traditionally sort, grade, and bag their beans with other lots without the benefit of cupping, which can diminish overall quality and make it impossible to establish the origin. However, there is a growing trend in Colombia toward cupping and bagging single-farm coffee, which is crucial for the specialty market. If you want to increase your odds of tasting a great Colombian coffee, make sure to choose a bag that identifies the region or farm. Some of the more recognized regions, Nariño, Cauca, and Southern Huila, are in the southwestern part of the country, although the north, including the prominent regions of Antioquia and Santander, produce coffee, too. Colombian coffee has a reputation for being consistent and well balanced. It typically has a medium body with moderate acidity and notes ranging from tropical fruit to chocolate.
ECUADOR
200 to 2,000 masl | 1,089,000 bags | natural, some washed
Although the national government does not offer much support to specialty coffee growers in Ecuador (farms that specialize in low-quality arabica and robusta bound to become instant coffee granules get top priority), some farmers are willing and able to grow coffee that produces interesting, high-quality cups. As of this writing, Ecuador’s specialty exports are very small. Café Imports, one of the few buyers that bring Ecuadorian coffee to the United States, posted on its website that in 2014, it had purchased 3 of only 30 total shipping containers of specialty coffee exported from Ecuador. Still, the country has all the right ingredients: It’s smack dab on the equator (hence the name), and it has that volcanic soil that coffee loves, not to mention a very wet rainy season and extreme elevations. Growing regions include Loja (where 20 percent of all arabica is grown), Pichincha, Zamora-Chinchipe, Carchi, and El Oro. The best Ecuadorian coffees have a great balance of sweetness and acidity.
PERU
1,200 to 2,000 masl | 2,443,000 bags | mostly washed
Peru does not have the same kind of name recognition in the coffee world as other South American countries, especially those like Brazil and Colombia that benefit from robust national coffee organizations. However, Peruvian coffee has that bright acidity of high-grown coffee—the Andes Mountains run the length of the country, encompassing nearly 28 microclimates. Although Peru struggles with infrastructure issues, in recent years, the Ministerio de Agricultura y Riego del Perú, the body that oversees the country’s agriculture, has been offering more modern resources and agricultural education to producers, who tend to be indigenous peoples using traditional processing methods. About 60 percent of Peru’s coffee beans are grown in the north in regions such as Cajamarca, Amazonas, San Martín, Piura, and Lambayeque. About 30 percent are grown in the central part of the country, which includes Junín, Pasco, and Huánuco. The southern regions such as Puno, Cusco, and Ayacucho grow the least amount of coffee. Many Peruvian coffees are organic (although Peruvian organic farmers are struggling mightily with coffee leaf rust) and tend to be creamy with sweet notes, such as toffee, caramel, chocolate, and nuts.
Africa
BURUNDI
1,700 to 2,000 masl | 246,000 bags | mostly washed
Burundi is a small country in East Africa, just south of Rwanda. As an extremely mountainous country with a tropical climate, Burundi is well suited to growing specialty coffee. The country grows mostly bourbon or bourbon relatives, which tend to have substantial body and sweetness, while the country’s elevation provides complex acidity—an all-around promising combination. The main growing region is Kayanza in the north. When bagged and labeled for sale, Burundian coffee is most likely to be named after the washing station where it was processed. There are more than 20 such stations in the city of Kayanza and about 160 across the entire country. Coffee is an important agricultural crop in Burundi—its number one export, in fact—but due to civil war and other complications, the country has struggled to shine in the specialty market. However, things are starting to turn around, thanks to organizations of producers and specialty coffee exporters. The national industry is also continuing to move toward more privatization after years of governmental control, which has had a positive effect on the quality of the country’s coffee crop. Like the coffee in neighboring Rwanda, Burundi’s coffee can sometimes fall victim to the potato defect, a condition thought to be caused by the antestia bug and a bacterial infection that makes the beans smell and taste like raw potatoes. (Andreas and I think these beans smell just like the freshly cut stems of romaine lettuce.) One defective bean can ruin an entire dose (although that doesn’t mean the whole bag is bad—another argument for grinding only what you need), so smell the coffee grounds before using them; you’ll be able to tell right away if they’ve been affected. The frequency of potato defect has greatly declined in recent years, however, due to the significant time and energy invested in figuring out why this defect happens and how to prevent it, so it’s unlikely that you will encounter any defective beans.
DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO
700 to 1,500 masl | 135,000 bags | mostly washed
Located in the center of Africa, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) is currently in the process of rebuilding its specialty coffee program. The country has been ravaged by political conflict and violence for the past few decades, which has dramatically affected its coffee exports: 130,000 tons per year in the mid-1980s dropped to 8,000 tons by 2012. However, you do see DRC coffee in the United States, and efforts are being made to revitalize the industry; in May 2016, the country held its second annual Saveur du Kivu, a national cupping competition. Growing regions are mostly to the east, where the soil is volcanic and the elevations are high. These regions include Beni near the Ugandan border as well as Kivu and Ituri. Lake Kivu influences DRC’s (and Rwanda’s) coffees (as other large lakes in the area influence the coffee of other East African countries), providing interesting savory notes such as herbs, spices, nuts, or pepper, along with a good balance of acidity and sweetness. These coffees can also suffer from the potato defect.
ETHIOPIA
1,500 to 2,200 masl | 2,872,000 bags | washed and natural
Ethiopia is one of specialty coffee’s most respected origins and has some of the finest coffees in all the land. Perhaps it’s no coincidence that arabica coffee was first discovered within Ethopia’s borders. One of the most exciting things about this origin is that literally hundreds of heirloom varieties are cultivated by as many small producers (you’ll often see the term heirloom varieties, as opposed to regions, on bags of Ethiopian coffee). Because of this, Ethiopian coffee can range in flavor, although it is generally known for intensely floral or fruity flavors. That being said, some growing regions are more distinctive than others. For example, Yirgacheffe, a small subset of the Sidama growing region in the south, is known for producing coffee with characteristic Earl Grey flavors. Harar, in the highlands to the east, is known for the unique flavor of its washed and sun-dried coffees. Coffee grown in the west (e.g., Limu, Djimmah, Lekempti, Welega, and Gimbi) is generally fruitier (many Ethiopian coffees taste like blueberries, which is heightened by dry processing) than coffee grown elsewhere. Whatever its flavor, I find Ethiopia’s coffee to be big and bold—it’s often the first coffee that people say tastes like something more than just coffee. A good Ethiopian coffee gives up its yummy flavors without much fuss, making it a good choice for beginners.
KENYA
1,400 to 2,000+ masl | 720,000 bags | mostly washed
Kenya is another heavy-hitting origin known for some of the highest-quality coffees in the world. Even a middling Kenyan coffee has been known to go toe-to-toe with other countries’ highest-quality coffees. High-grown Kenyan coffees have a characteristic sparkling acidity, and certain varietals, including SL28, have very distinct black-currant notes, along with notes of berries, tropical fruits, and citrus fruits (especially grapefruit). Kenyan coffee must often contend with coffee leaf rust and coffee berry disease, and the Kenyan government has taken steps to develop high-quality, disease-resistant plants, such as Ruiru 11 and Batian. Still, quality is king in Kenya; the extreme skill of the producers and the country’s unique processing techniques, which are distinguished by a double fermentation process, contribute to the high quality of Kenyan cups. Kenya has several growing regions, although most fall within a swath of land clustered around the slopes of Mount Kenya, which extends south almost to the capital of Nairobi and north to Meru. There is another cluster of growing regions to the west, near the Ugandan border around Mount Elgon, and a few more isolated areas here and there.
RWANDA
1,400 to 1,800 masl | 237,000 bags | mostly washed, some natural
With the help of government programs and investments, Rwanda has been positioning itself as a specialty coffee producer since the early 2000s. Today, it’s common to see this origin on the menu at craft coffee shops all over the Unite
d States. Like its neighbors, Rwanda mostly grows bourbon and bourbon derivatives, which are generally full bodied and quite sweet. Distinguishing Rwandan flavor notes include raisin and other dried fruits as well as stone fruits, citrus, and sweet spice. Of all the East African coffees affected by the potato defect, Rwandan coffees are often hit the hardest, which tarnishes their image a bit. Most coffee is produced in the north (the region of Rulindo grows some of the country’s best coffees) and in the west, particularly around the Albertine Rift mountains and Lake Kivu. The south and east do not yet grow significant amounts of specialty coffee, but they have all the resources (high elevations, good soil, willing producers) to do so in the future.
TANZANIA
1,400 to 2,000 masl | 678,000 bags | mostly washed
Located on the eastern shore of Africa, Tanzania is not as well recognized as Kenya, its superstar neighbor to the north, but its specialty coffee can be top-notch and quite similar to Kenya’s. Uniquely, much of Tanzania’s coffee is grown under the shade of banana trees on the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro. The elevation and the shade contribute to a slow-developing bean that offers bright and extremely complex cups. For whatever reason, Tanzanian peaberry coffee is popular in the United States, despite the fact that Tanzania does not produce more peaberries than other countries. Peaberry coffee is not a variety of coffee but rather the name of a naturally occurring mutation in the beans. Most of the time, coffee cherries contain two flat-sided beans. About 5 percent of the time, a coffee cherry produces only one bean (instead of two), which is small and round like a pea (hence the name!). Peaberries are often separated from the regular flat beans before roasting because their shape makes them roast differently, but sometimes they aren’t, and you’ll find them in a bag of regular coffee. Many people prize peaberries because they believe all the qualities of the two flat beans are concentrated into one bean. Others think they’re no different from regular coffee beans. In any case, don’t be surprised if you see a Tanzanian peaberry coffee for sale at your local shop.