Book Read Free

The Seine

Page 35

by Elaine Sciolino


  Seine Valley in, 280, 284, 285

  painters and, 247–48, 249, 250, 255, 257

  Vikings in, 263

  World War II in, 285, 286, 287–88

  Notre-Dame Cathedral, 6, 12, 15, 16, 122, 168, 169, 171, 172–73, 182, 184, 208, 219, 224, 264

  annual number of visitors to, 239, 331

  in background of Le petit-pont (Meryon), 233

  in background of Studio, Quai Saint-Michel (Matisse), 251

  built on Île de la Cité, 239

  as point zéro (center of France), official recognition of, 332

  as center of Paris, 30

  embracing historical complexity of, 335

  in film, 171

  framed by stone underpass of Pont Saint-Michel, 2

  Jousse and redesigned lighting of, 125

  many transformations of, 334–35

  momentous events of history set in, 333–34

  parvis of, 332, 333, 334, 335, 336

  the Seine and creation of, 337–38

  site of, as holy place since antiquity, 333

  Notre-Dame Cathedral, fire at (2019), 329–32, 335, 336–37, 338–39

  early signs of, 330–31

  Paris firefighters help in extinguishing, 328, 329–30, 331–32, 336–37, 338

  restoration planning, in aftermath of, 335

  spire burns and falls, 331, 335

  surviving structure and artifacts of, 337

  Notre-Dame Church, Abbey of Jumièges, 282

  Notre-Dame de Caudebec-en-Caux church, 273–74

  Notsa (barge), 156

  Nouvel, Jean, 237, 303

  Nozal, Alexandre, 241

  NUBA (nightclub), 309

  Nuit Blanche:

  Guo-Qiang’s One Night Stand during, 130, 131–33

  spending on and installations for, 123–24

  “Nymph of the Seine to the Queen, The” (Racine), 46

  Off (floating hotel), 135

  Office, The, 241

  Ohio River, 25

  Oise River, 154

  Sequana myth and, 48

  Olive, Sébastien Jean Alexandre, 243

  “Ol’ Man River” (Show Boat), 5, 180

  One Night Stand (Cai Guo-Qiang), 130, 131–33

  Ophüls, Max, 225

  Our Lady of Lourdes, 36, 46, 75, 308

  “Our Last Summer” (song), 181

  Overstreet, Richard, 194, 195, 248

  pacu, in the Seine, 119

  painting the Seine, 94, 101, 108, 113, 134–35, 187, 193, 205, 208, 240–41, 246, 247–48, 249–57, 300, 321

  Palais des Tuileries, 14

  Panorama of the Paris Exposition from the Seine (Edison), 170

  Panorama XXL, Rouen, 265

  Papon, Maurice, 226, 227

  Paradis, Vanessa, 182

  Parc de Bercy, at night, 129

  Paris, 164

  ancient evidence of origins of, 71–75

  Bercy neighborhood renewal project, 71

  bouquinistes as literary gatekeepers of, 201–2, 204

  cholera epidemic of 1832 in, 102

  cinema and, 169–70, 173

  coat of arms, 70, 77, 79, 80–81, 92, 338

  cultivating self-discovery and a new life in, 3–5, 7, 325

  debate over origin of, 79

  diving event for Summer Olympics 2024 bid in, 96, 97–98

  fariy-tale endings in, 169

  finding the Seine’s paths to, 60, 61, 63–68

  Fiorini’s map depicting (1550), 18

  flooding of Seine, 73, 104, 109, 144–45, 146–47

  harmony between the Seine and, 15

  Hitler’s plan to destroy, 289–91

  houseboat purchases in, 150

  with illuminated bridges and Eiffel Tower, 82, 124–27

  incorporating source of the Seine into city of, 30–32

  Julian the Apostate’s love for, 71, 78–79

  liberation of, 1944, 286, 288, 290, 333

  Marché Serpette in the flea market of, 81

  map, 1611, depicting city of, 234

  motto of, 70, 79–81, 338

  naming of, history behind, 79

  the Nautes as emblematic characters of, 76–77, 79–80

  Nazi Occupation of, 289–91

  at night, 82, 120, 121–28

  in 1910, 140, 182

  number of main bridges in, 84, 91

  photography in, cradle of, 191

  Pont Neuf as oldest bridge in, 84

  Reinvent the Seine competition sponsored by, 45, 46, 307–8

  Seine and finding highway to, 11, 19, 288–89

  Seine’s east-to-west arc through, 14

  sign indicating source of the Seine belongs to, 28, 30

  songs inspired by the Seine in, 180–87

  tribute to the Nautes and coat of arms of, 76, 79–80

  in 2016, 34, 141–42, 143

  Paris (Russell), 206

  Paris City Hall, 169

  bouquinistes paperwork, 204

  Cai’s work commissioned by, 131–32

  carless Seine initiative, 310

  eco-friendly Seine campaign, 117

  flood of 2016 and, 141

  Les Ponts de Paris published by, 207

  Nuit Blanche and, 123

  Paris Plages ruling, 137–38

  place de Grève, former name of square in front of, 87

  2024 Summer Olympics campaign and, 98

  Paris Exposition Universelle of 1889, 318

  Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900, 6, 90, 170, 194, 215

  Paris Fashion Week, 324

  Parisians, worldly-wise, seduced by the Seine, 12

  Parisii tribe:

  bridges built by, 89

  coin with head of the god Apollo, 77, 78

  life in Lutetia and, 77–78

  the Nautes and, 76

  Roman defeat of, 78

  Paris Massacre of 1961, 226–27

  Paris Plages (urban beaches), 95, 137–38, 177

  Paris: Portrait of a City (Gautrand), 193

  Paris qui dort (film), 168

  Paris Salon, 250

  Paris school of lighting, structures along the Seine and, 122, 124–27

  Paris/Seine (Beaudouin), 10

  Paris Transit Authority, the Seine and symbol of, 80

  Paris When It Sizzles (film), 166

  Passerelle Debilly, 6, 216

  Passerelle Léopold-Sédar-Senghor, 92

  Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir, 91, 92, 129

  Paul et Virginie (Bernardin de Saint-Pierre), 46

  Pavillon de l’Arsenal, 243

  Pelletier, Lionel, 119

  Pénet, Martin, 180

  Perkins, Anthony, 290

  Perret, Auguste, 302, 303

  Perronet, Rodolphe, 90

  Persephone (Prosperine), 47–48

  Pessiot, Guy, 268, 269

  Petit Palais, 92

  Philibert, saint, 282

  Philippe II, king of France, 14, 79–80, 101

  Phillips, Duncan, 254

  photographs, the Seine in, 188, 190–96

  photography, birth of, 191

  Picasso, Pablo, 225

  Picturesque Tour of the Seine, from Paris to the Sea (Sauvan), 271, 320

  Pillar of the Nautes, 76–77

  Pinault, François-Henri, 237

  Pingeot, Anne, 202

  Pink Panther, The (2006 remake), 173, 176

  Pirée (barge), 156

  pirogues, discovered at Bercy, 72–73, 75

  Piscine Deligny, 143

  Pissarro, Camille, 252, 25

  Pius X, pope, 333

  place Dauphine, 134

  place de la Concorde, pink granite obelisk at, 16–17, 144, 146

  place du Carrousel, 176

  place du Châtelet, 310

  place du Trocadéro, 16, 120, 194

  place du Vieux Marché, 261

  Plateau of Langres (Burgundy), source of the Seine at, 28, 29, 33–34

  plein air landscape artists, 249

>   Plump, Alessandra Sciolino, lights up Niagara Falls, 127–28

  Plump, Andrew, 81, 252, 272, 275, 314

  finding the Seine’s path to Paris, 60, 61, 63–68

  guided tour of source waters with Elaine, 30–38

  Hermès scarf gift, 81

  Plus, Gabriel, 338

  podoscaphe, 109

  pollution, 97, 98, 201, 214

  combating with no-car areas, 310

  fish kills and, 116

  of the Seine, history behind, 101–3, 104

  Pompidou, Georges, 240, 309, 310

  Pompon-Rouge (barge), 255, 256

  Pont Alexandre III, 6, 91, 98

  Belle Époque lamppost on, 126

  diving event for Paris’s bid for Summer Olympics 2024, 96, 97–98, 104

  in films, 170, 171, 191

  Lyon school of lighting and, 126

  naming of, 90

  photographs of, 195

  physical characteristics of, 92

  Pont au Change, Lyon school of lighting and, 126

  Pont Charles de Gaulle, 92

  Pont d’Arcole, 92

  Pont d’Austerlitz, 91, 92, 126, 215

  Pont de Bercy, 91

  engraving of a tugboat near, 162

  Lyon school of lighting and, 126

  Pont de Bir-Hakeim, 90, 91, 196

  in Inception, 175

  Jousse’s illumination of, 127

  military victory memorialized by, 92

  Pont de la Concorde, 90, 91, 126, 175

  Pont de l’Alma, 91, 92, 147, 216, 223, 325

  lighting of, 126

  stone statue of Zouave soldier at base of, 5, 6, 146, 221

  Pont de la Tournelle, 14, 90, 91, 335–36

  Pont Louis-Philippe, 92

  Pont de Normandie, 297–98

  Pont des Arts, 14, 91, 92–93, 124, 172, 324

  lighting of, 126–27

  lovers’ locks on, 88, 88

  photographs of, 195–96

  Pont des Invalides, 6, 91, 223

  Pont de Sully, 12, 16, 91

  Pont d’Iéna, 16, 91, 92, 194, 243

  lighting of, 126

  nighttime view of, from Eiffel Tower, 120

  Pont du Carrousel, 91, 175, 324

  Pont du Garigliano, 91, 126, 324

  Pont Louis-Philippe, 91, 139

  Pont Marie, 14, 19, 91, 98, 125

  floodwaters and, 144

  as lovers’ bridge, 138–39

  Pont Mathilde (Pont Boieldieu), 261, 262

  Pont Mirabeau, 91, 93, 224, 320, 324

  Pont de la Tournelle, 14

  Pont Neuf, 13, 14, 91, 94, 115, 134, 140, 172, 175, 192, 232

  bouquinistes and, 204

  bronze statue of Henri IV on, 85, 95

  celebratory art installations on, 85–86

  construction of, 83

  in daguerreotypes, 191

  flood of 1910 and, 145

  Fournier’s 1862 history of, 202

  inauguration of, 84

  length of, 84

  lovers’ locks on, 88–89

  mascarons on, 84, 85, 217

  Paris held together by, 83, 84

  restorations and reconstructions of, 85

  songs and, 181

  Square du Vert-Galant and, 93

  tour guides on, 86–87

  vista from, 85

  Pont Notre-Dame, 84, 91, 222

  pontoon boats, as River Brigade’s central command, 215, 216

  Pont Royal, 91, 122, 175, 231

  flood of 1910 and, 140, 145

  at night, 121–22

  Pont Saint-Louis, 91, 93

  Pont Saint-Michel, 91, 173, 219

  Notre-Dame Cathedral framed by stone underpass of, 2

  Paris Massacre of 1961 commemorative plaque, 227

  Port de l’Arsenal, 309

  boat village in, 110

  houseboats in, 149

  Port des Champs-Élysées, 143

  Port des Saints-Pères, 172

  Port de Troyes, 63

  Porte Dauphine, 175

  Porte d’Ivry, 213

  Porte de Caudebec, 278

  Potomac River, 133

  Poulenc, Francis, 187

  pousseurs (tugboats), 114

  Preston, Robert, 135

  Prévert, Jacques, 9, 174

  Prosperine (Persephone), 47–48

  prostitution, 135

  Protestant Reformation, 203–4

  Proust, Marcel, 16, 72, 201

  on “enchanted essence” of Monet’s paintings, 244

  on Monet’s genius, 264

  Puccini, Giacomo, 184, 186

  Quai André Citroën, 320

  Quai d’Anjou, 240

  Quai de Béthune, 240

  “Quai de Béthune” (Aragon), 182

  Quai de Conti, 81

  Quai de Grenelle, 319

  Quai de Javel, 309

  Quai de la Tournelle, 90

  Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville. 244

  Quai des Célestins, 19

  Quai des Enfers (Astier), 211

  Quai des Grands-Augustins (Marquet), 300

  Quai des Grands-Augustins, bookstalls along, 198, 199, 202, 208

  Quai d’Orsay, 144

  Quai François Mitterrand, 175

  Quai Malaquais, 172

  Quai Saint-Bernard, 215

  Quai Saint-Michel, 251

  Quartier Morland, 243

  quays, 9, 15, 67, 133, 136, 154, 169, 172, 201–4, 206, 216, 218, 230, 232, 248, 260, 300, 330

  construction and renovations of, 20, 22

  in Gennevilliers, 164

  songs and, 181, 208

  see also bridges across the Seine

  Quilhot, Damien, 336

  Rabelais, François, 278

  Racine, Jean, 46

  Raft of the Medusa, The (Géricault), 113

  Raguenet, Nicolas-Jean-Baptiste, 248

  railroads:

  barge commerce and, 22, 154

  leisure travel and, 134, 249, 272

  Rannaud, Monique, 286–87

  Rashi (Jewish scholar):

  commentary on Rosh Hashanah custom, 64

  synagogue devoted to, in Troyes, 63

  Ratatouille (animated film), 175

  Ravaillac, François, 86, 87

  Réard, Louis, 241

  “Regarde-toi Paname” (song), 182

  Regional Natural Park of the Meanders of the Norman Seine, 285

  Reims:

  crowning of Charles VII as king of France at, 261

  vast vineyards around, 51

  Reinhardt, Django, 10

  Reinvent the Seine competition, 45–46, 299

  goal of, 308

  mission statement of, 307

  rejects Sequana proposal by Elaine Sciolino, 307–8

  winners announced for, 308

  Renau, Arlette, 162, 163

  life as a bargewoman, 156–59

  mourning loss of her life on the water, 165

  on online communication, 162

  Renault, Louis, 236

  Renault corporation, 236

  Renoir, Auguste, 53, 108, 113, 134, 135, 187, 246, 252, 253, 254, 255

  reservoirs, the Seine’s water level and, 103, 145

  Resnais, Alain, 225

  Restaurant Guy Savoy, 13

  retirement communities, floating, 161

  Rhine River, 25, 269, 321

  Rhône River, 21, 53, 319

  Ribaut, Jean-Claude, Champagne country tour with, 51, 52, 53–57

  Richard the Lionheart, 263, 284, 321

  Right Bank of the Seine in Paris, 5, 13, 14, 19, 71, 35, 73, 89, 90, 92, 122, 125, 129, 139, 146, 173, 195, 236, 237, 240, 243, 255, 265, 267, 269, 272, 311

  bathers sunning themselves along, 12 expressway built on, 309–10

  Fluctuart on, 315

  the Marais on, 144

  Paris Plages on, 137

  Pont Neuf and, 83

  Marcel Proust’s apartment on, 72

  see also Left B
ank of the Seine; Seine, the

  Rilke, Rainer Maria, 225

  Ringer, Catherine, 303

  Rin Tin Tin (“Wonder Dog”), 238

  Riqueti, Honoré Gabriel, Count of Mirabeau, 93

  Rive droite, rive gauche (film), 13

  river barges. see barges

  River Brigade. see Brigade Fluviale (river police) rivers:

  “confluence” rule and, 25

  emotional connections with, 5, 21

  human settlements on, 77

  songs and, 180

  see also individual rivers

  river transport, “green,” 163. see also barges; tugboats

  rivières, people of the water and use of term, 10, 13

  Rivières de France (Grandin), 26

  Roastbeef (reconstructed sailboat), 111

  Robert, David, 276

  Robert, Régis, 169, 170

  Robert the Devil, 277

  Robin, Sylvie, 72, 73, 75, 76

  Rodin, Auguste, 65, 176

  Rohmer, Eric, 170

  Rollo (Viking chief), 263

  Romain, Bernard, 109

  Roman Empire, City of Parisii as summer capital of, 79

  Romans (ancient), 52, 67, 89, 116, 153, 238-39, 262, 296, 303, 333, 338

  cult of Sequana and, 25, 36–37, 43–45

  Gaul conquered by, 25, 31, 35, 79

  Lutetia found by, 74, 76, 77

  Parisii defeated by, 78

  Ronis, Willy, 131, 193

  Rosenblum, Mort, 142, 302

  buys decommissioned British naval vessel, 142

  experiencing flood of 2016 with, 143, 144, 145–47

  on life on the river, 151

  Paris bureau chief for the Associated Press, 142

  storytelling talents of, 143

  Rosh Hashanah:

  Rashi’s account of planting custom before, 64

  Tashlich and, 63–64

  Rota, Italo, 127

  Rouen, 20, 22, 42, 154, 155, 164, 165, 213, 228, 237, 238, 249, 251, 253, 276, 277, 281, 282, 285, 296, 299, 318, 321

  Allied bombing of, 287

  cathedral of, 263–64

  course of the Seine through, 24, 259–60, 271

  early history of, 260, 262, 263, 264

  Flaubert’s life in, 101, 265

  importance of, 260

  Joan of Arc in, 260–62, 261, 263, 265

  La Salle commemorated in, 268, 269

  liberation of, 1944, 288

  Pessiot’s photo collection of, 268, 269

  Pissarro on, 255

  Reinvent the Seine competition sponsored by, 45, 46, 307, 308

  speed-painting contest in, 255–56

  Verrazzano celebrated in, 266–68

  World War II and, 286–288

  Rouen Cathedral, 263–64

  Rousselet, Yann, 274

  Rowing:

  from Île de Chatou, 107–09, 111–15, 112

  Monet and, 250

  Napoléon III’s appreciation for, 110

  Rowing-Club—Paris Rowing Society (Société de

  Régates Parisiennes), 110

  rowing shells, delicacy of, 113

  Rozerot, Jeanne, 190

  rue de Bièvre, 14

 

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