A Greek Affair

by Linn B. Halton

  He raises his eyebrows. ‘You’re really focused when you’re wearing your work hat. I’m already feeling the pressure and I only hope I can keep up the pace.’

  I smile at his teasing and he catches my hand, turning as he leads us in the direction of the crossing which will take us over to the path that runs parallel with the gardens.

  ‘I hate rushing but something tells me I will come here again and next time I won’t miss a thing.’ I have no idea why that thought pops into my head, but it does.

  ‘I’ll forgive you then, but you could spend a week just touring the museums alone. I’m sure the Greek gods will understand. Everything has a time and a place, that’s why they were never put off when it took hundreds of years to complete a build. Emperors and kings came and went, as did political turmoil and enemy attack. Patience, perseverance and sheer determination was how a mighty empire grew.

  ‘I’ll follow your lead once we’re inside. So long as we keep heading in that direction, then we’ll eventually come out at Syntagma and the Parliament building. That was on your hit list, wasn’t it?’ He points diagonally and I nod.

  ‘Yes. I can’t possibly do a feature on Athens without it. I’ll also grab a shot of the tomb of the unknown soldier.’

  We step through one of the gated entrances to the gardens and I hover just inside. Angling my camera lens upwards, I capture a perfect row of palm trees that soar high above us. Then we meander; some paths are familiar but it’s fun to discover other trails which lead to an unexpected vista with a statue and often a bench.

  Daniel seems happy to follow me around and I can feel his eyes constantly watching me.

  ‘You know this vertigo thing you suffer from, well … I’ve booked somewhere very special for dinner tonight. I need you to trust me that I wouldn’t take you anywhere that isn’t completely safe. But it might involve you having to keep your eyes closed for a couple of minutes at one point.’

  I spin around, taking a few shots of him as he grins back at me.

  ‘Now I’m worried. Why will I need to close my eyes?’

  Click, click, click. He rubs his hand down the sides of his beard, rather absentmindedly and peers across at me.

  ‘It’s on a hill but we can take a little ride up to it so there’s no climbing involved. There are just a few steps that might make you nervous, so I’ll need you to close your eyes and let me guide you. I’ll be by your side the whole time. Promise.’

  We stand gazing at each other, the chemistry between us almost tangible.

  ‘You’ll be disappointed if I don’t agree, won’t you?’

  He’s still running his fingers down either side of his chin which is a telltale sign he’s a bit nervous.

  ‘The food is amazing and I think it’s an experience you shouldn’t miss. It’s nothing at all like the glass floor incident and once we’re up there you’ll feel safe, really. If I didn’t think you’d absolutely love it, then I wouldn’t be pressing you.’

  How can I resist, when I gaze into those wonderful eyes? I was given a second chance for a reason and I’m not going to let a little fear get in the way of Daniel’s surprise.

  ‘As you were good enough to rescue me a couple of times on my last trip it would be ungrateful of me to spoil your plans. I guess the answer is yes; I’ll put myself in your capable hands once again.’

  He walks towards me, placing his arms around my waist and drawing me into him.

  ‘If Athens hasn’t already captured your heart, it will tonight, I promise you,’ he whispers into my hair.

  And how about you, Daniel? Can I capture your heart? The decision to let me in is all yours.

  One Enchanted Evening

  After a long chat with an excited Rosie, who wants to tell me all about her day at the beach, I look at my watch and see it’s time I started to get ready. I dress with care, paying attention to every little detail. I keep my make-up light, but use a dark grey eyeshadow to make my eyelids smoky and extra mascara to make my eyes stand out. Tonight, I’ve decided to scrunch up my curls and let my hair hang loose to frame my face. A pair of crystal pearl drop earrings add a touch of sparkle as I turn my head.

  Fortunately, I brought a pair of silver pumps with me, thinking heels might be a mistake given Daniel’s warning. And instead of wearing the long dress I packed, I opt for a slinky, knee-length midnight blue little number. It has a plunging V-neck and the fabric twists in a knot at the waist. A series of small silver chains hold the top together, backed by a sheer blue voile panel to stop it being too revealing. It looks elegant and rather Greek, to my eyes.

  I have no idea where we are going but I’m excited at the thought of the evening ahead and nothing is going to spoil it. Rather unexpectedly, there’s a tap on the door.

  ‘Come in, I’m almost ready.’

  But when the door swings open it isn’t Daniel I see, but George standing before me.

  ‘Oh, hi George.’

  He’s staring at me and I do believe his jaw has just dropped a little.

  ‘Oh … um. I just came to say goodbye as I’m staying in town tonight and you’ll probably be gone before I get back tomorrow. That’s quite some dress, Leah, if you don’t mind me saying.’

  I can’t help smiling as George is harmless enough.

  ‘Thank you. And it’s been lovely getting to know you a little, George.’

  He steps forward to kiss my cheek and then stands back looking a little sheepish.

  ‘I … um … haven’t seen Daniel this lively since, well, ever, I suppose. He’s a good mate and a great guy who has been through a lot. I’ve known him for a long time and we go way back. What I’m trying to say is that I’m glad you two are getting along so well and you’re managing to get him to talk. That means something and it’s the lease of life that he needs.’

  With that he turns and exits, leaving me with a warm feeling. For all the banter going on last night it was clear the two of them are great friends and George was happy to see Daniel so relaxed.

  The door stands ajar and moments later there’s another tap. This time it’s Daniel who appears.

  ‘Did you see George?’ he asks. ‘He wanted to say goodbye to you. It seems it’s going to be just us here at the villa tonight but the taxi has arrived, so I don’t see any point in changing our plans now.’

  Daniel hasn’t taken his eyes off me and I feel the heat rising in my cheeks knowing that when we get back there will be no interruptions. He’s looking so cool in a white linen shirt, the cuffs folded back exposing his tanned forearms. Wearing navy jeans and a pair of brown brogues, he’s made a real effort and we’re coordinated, which makes me smile.

  ‘What’s funny?’ he asks curiously.

  ‘Your jeans match my dress.’

  ‘So they do; you look amazing, Leah – that dress is beautiful. Are you ready?’

  ‘Lead the way.’ I grab my bag and a navy shawl, then follow Daniel downstairs. My stomach is tied up in knots as I try my best to appear calm. But when he looks so good that’s not easy to do.

  It’s about a twenty-minute drive across town and we pass the National Gardens and the Parliament building, entering an area Daniel informs me is known as Kolonaki. We didn’t manage to walk up this far with the girls the day we were here. Apparently, it is regarded as the most fashionable district in Athens. Well-to-do ladies walk by with their dogs and as we drive around Kolonaki square it’s surrounded by designer stores, cafés and smart gift shops. I manage to take a few snaps while the car is stationary, enough to give a feel for the ambience of this area. Then we start to climb a little as we enter a maze of smaller streets which seem to be mostly residential. In between there are a few cafés, bars and smaller, boutique-style shops here and there. Some look like little art galleries. Still we’re climbing and as we wait at a small junction I look to my left to see a very steep street. There must be a dozen individual but very long runs of marble steps. Separating each level is a wide flat area and most seem to have a bench or two, so people c
an stop to catch their breath and enjoy the view. Either side of the wide steps is a narrow pavement, but the gradient looks perilous from this viewpoint.

  ‘That’s one serious climb,’ I turn to look at Daniel.

  ‘That’s the second easiest route, after taking a taxi, of course.’

  ‘Is there a third option?’

  He looks at me and shakes his head. ‘You don’t want to know, trust me. Right, this is it.’

  The taxi pulls up and Daniel thrusts a note at the driver, saying something in Greek. The driver gives him a smile and a salute, as we both exit the car.

  When I join Daniel on the pavement I look up to see a sign marked ‘Funicular’. I gulp. I can’t really see the ‘fun’ bit in this, at all! Don’t spoil it, Leah, I tell myself. Trust Daniel.

  ‘Okay. All you will see are some steps up to the carriage. We’ll travel up backwards and when we get to the top there are a few steps to climb. But I’m going to be there holding onto you. It isn’t far to the restaurant and you won’t be near any sheer drops whatsoever. Are you ready?’

  Daniel takes my arm and squeezes it, reassuringly.

  ‘I’m good to go.’

  We step through the entrance and as we queue to buy tickets I can see the very steep track leading up into a shaft at the rear. However, less than a minute later an enclosed, bright yellow carriage slowly descends and it doesn’t look scary at all. It looks robust and state-of-the-art.

  ‘Most of the people in the queue already will head for the front-facing seats, hoping to get a glimpse of the view as we ascend. But we’ll make for the backward-facing ones. It’s a really smooth ride and it doesn’t take long.’

  As the passengers decant and the queue begins to shuffle forward, we wait for the last couple to disembark before we’re on the move and it’s too late to back out.

  Daniel encourages me along confidently as we mount some rather steep concrete steps and negotiate our way into the second carriage. He’s right and we find a block of two seats facing four people on a bench seat in front of us. There’s a little jerking movement as we set off but aside from that it’s relatively smooth; enough not to worry me unduly, although the shaft seems to extend above us a long way. There is staged lighting, so it isn’t pitch black and that’s a comfort.

  Several times I can feel Daniel glancing my way. He squeezes my hand, checking I’m not freaking out, I suspect. But I’m calm. As we draw near to the top and natural light begins to filter into the shaft, he leans into me.

  ‘Hold back and let everyone else get off first.’

  It’s a couple of minutes before he stands, extending both of his hands to pull me to my feet.

  ‘Now, I want you to keep focusing on my face. Don’t look anywhere else because I’ve got you, Leah. Deep breath.’

  I follow him to the door of the carriage and inhale deeply, as Daniel steps out and grasps my arm the moment my feet hit the first step. He glues himself to my side so I can’t see what’s behind us and the few steps in front don’t seem so bad. We reach a small landing area and now the steps are inside a building and we’re away from the shaft.

  He’s close behind me as I focus on not tripping up and suddenly we’re on another level and to my right is what looks like a bar. It has a panoramic view out over Athens. Daniel steers me across another small landing and out into the open, where we climb one more flight of steps. There are people on a large terrace, eating and drinking. Around us at every turn you catch a glimpse of a stunning view that goes on for miles and miles.

  We follow a rather uneven stone path and take the first turning through a wooden archway into a restaurant. Daniel turns to face me. ‘I’m so proud of you,’ he whispers.

  A waiter approaches and Daniel says something in Greek. The young man indicates for us to follow him and we walk through a bar area with bistro tables, out onto a terrace. Now I feel that we really are on top of a mountain. However, when I see how beautifully laid out the tables are with their perfectly white linen tablecloths, crystal glassware and silver cutlery, with that backdrop – it takes my breath away. The waiter pulls out a chair and I sit down gratefully, my legs perhaps a tad more unstable than I’d realised.

  ‘Wine?’ Daniel enquires, and I nod, unable to take my eyes off the view. ‘This is Lycabettus Hill, isn’t it? The one we see from the centre of Athens. I saw it in the guidebooks and ruled it out as an option. This isn’t a hill, this is a mountain. Look how high up we are. This must be on a par with the Acropolis.’

  ‘It’s just over 900 feet high. The Acropolis hill rises only 490 feet above the city. Originally Athens would have been a small cluster of houses around the Acropolis but now you can see for yourself how far it extends.’

  In front of us is a vast sea of twinkling lights and many of those are coming from people’s homes. It’s like being a voyeur seeing this aerial view which maps so many lives.

  ‘And the other side of this wall?’ Alongside me is a low stone wall and out of the corner of my eye I can see what appears to be a flat area that gently slopes away. I took great pains to focus on being seated, rather than catching a glimpse of what lies beyond it.

  Daniel reaches out across the table.

  ‘Grasp my hand and lean to look over the side. I won’t let go.’

  I was expecting a sheer drop, given that it feels we are perched way up in the sky but I’m surprised. There are a couple of levels that seem to wrap around the hill and it forms a wide, stepped path. People are coming and going, but in places there is a sheer drop down to the next level of the curving path below. For most people, it wouldn’t present a problem and they are passing with ease. The slopes are covered in a mixture of lightly wooded areas and dense shrubbery. I can smell the scent of pine trees even from here. Some of the exotic plants have sent up flower shoots five feet in the air and there are cacti and succulents everywhere.

  The waiter is back and pours out two glasses of wine, handing us a menu.

  The light is now beginning to fade quite quickly and another waiter appears to light the candles on each table. Together with the soft exterior lighting, it seems to enclose the space a little, making it feel less exposed. I can’t concentrate on the menu because my pulse is racing. I feel both elated and exhilarated at the same time.

  ‘I think my endorphins are getting me a little high,’ I admit as we raise our glasses to toast. ‘My head is spinning a little.’ But I know it’s not just the fact that I’m over 900 feet in the air.

  ‘To a perfect night with the perfect companion,’ Daniel murmurs, leaning in towards me.

  ‘I was thinking the exact same thing. To you, Daniel, and thank you. Why don’t you order for us both so that I can calm myself down a little and adjust to this view.’

  That raises a cheeky grin.

  Settling back in my seat I watch Daniel as he peruses the menu, taking his time before he indicates to the waiter he’s ready. Instinctively I pull out my camera and start snapping away. A lot of them are of Daniel, I know that, but I also scan around getting some background shots.

  As the sun sinks even lower on the horizon, darkness begins to settle around us like a cloak. Behind us, on the peak, is a wonderful old church built out of the local creamy-white stone. Suddenly it’s bathed in low level lighting, adding to the magic of this unbelievable setting. The darkening sky is filled with stars and a crescent moon looks down on us. Even through the viewfinder on my camera it’s breathtakingly beautiful.

  ‘Daniel, this is stunning.’ I can’t hold back the emotion in my voice.

  ‘No regrets? I did the right thing?’

  ‘I’m feeling on top of the world,’ I declare. It’s followed by my nervous laughter. ‘And my legs are still shaking just the teensiest bit.’

  ‘Don’t worry – I’m not proposing we take the path down. It’s not for the faint-hearted, or people with a nervous disposition. But it is safe and the views just keep on getting better and better. There are a lot of butterflies and you often see wild tortoi
ses. But I think you can save that for daylight hours on your next trip.’

  Two waiters appear with fassolada, which Daniel tells me is a cold soup made with white beans, carrots, onions, tomatoes and oregano topped with a little extra-virgin olive oil. It’s absolutely delicious and a perfect starter.

  The next course is marinated vegetables with feta crumbs and aged balsamic vinaigrette. After that it’s a dish of mushrooms, zucchini and tomatoes cooked in a saffron bouillon. Each course is beautifully presented and the portions are a perfect size, not too filling.

  The main course is picture-perfect; chicken breast cooked with artichokes and peas in a lemon dill sauce. I take several photos because the plate looks so stunning. Daniel is laughing at me.

  ‘What? This is exactly the type of photo that will make an article zing. My readers are interested in the food they’re likely to eat while in Greece.’

  He nods, humouring me and leans across to pour out a little more wine.

  ‘I like that you are passionate about what you do. I understand that.’

  ‘Did you always want to be an archaeologist?’

  ‘From an early age, pretty much.’

  ‘How did you even know it was an occupation?’

  He sits back, one hand twisting the stem of his wine glass.

  ‘I didn’t. I was playing in the garden one day and I was digging around like kids tend to do. I found a stone with an interesting pattern on it and it turned out to be a fossil. My parents bought me a book about it and then another, and another. By the time I was seven years old I was hooked. By then I’d nagged them to take me to all sorts of places on holiday where I could root around. My fossil collection began to grow but after a trip to the museum in York I discovered Roman mosaics and artefacts. I was fascinated to think that lying beneath our feet and beneath other buildings were the remains of earlier civilisations. To a young boy’s mind that represented discovery and adventure. Who wouldn’t want to dig and be the one to find a relic from the Roman Empire?’