Spring Muslins

by Melinda Hammond

  The dowager preferred to travel at a stately pace and her progress to London took three days, giving Aston sufficient time to post ahead and prepare the household for her coming. Thus, when the carriage pulled up, a footman ran out to open the carriage door and assist Lady Quidenham and her niece to alight and the butler was waiting in the hall to show them into the drawing room, where a cheerful fire blazed.

  It was Lady Quidenham’s habit to revive herself after a journey with cake and a glass of madeira, and Lucia was happy to join her, after which she went up to her room, where she found her old governess unpacking her trunk.

  ‘Morry, it is not your place to wait on me!’

  ‘And who else is to do it, pray?’ asked Miss Morrison, smiling. ‘We agreed I should help you until we could hire a suitable lady’s maid. And besides,’ she added, shaking out another gown, ‘I would rather be here than sitting downstairs with you and her ladyship. I have to confess I cannot help but quake in her presence!’

  Lucia laughed. ‘Thankfully I shall only require you to act as my companion when she is absent, so you need not be in her presence so very often! Aunt Evadne can be a little sharp, I know, but we have rubbed along surprisingly well during the journey. I am only sorry you did not share our comforts.’

  ‘I was very happy with Miss Fixby, I assure you. Her ladyship’s servants enjoy a greater degree of luxury than I ever knew as a mere governess.’

  ‘But to travel with her ladyship’s dresser!’ Lucia gave an exaggerated shiver. ‘I find Fixby even more terrifying than my aunt!’

  ‘Yes, well,’ Miss Morrison looked a little self-conscious. ‘She did try to intimidate me at first, but we had a few, er, words about it, and I think we understand one another now.’

  ‘Well done, Morry!’

  ‘I would not have said anything, only she began to abuse your sainted father, Lucia, and that I could not allow. I hope she will keep a civil tongue in her head in future.’

  ‘And I always thought you such a quiet, gentle soul,’ said Lucy, regarding her in admiration.

  ‘I am, in the main,’ replied the old governess, her grey eyes glinting, ‘but where those I care about are concerned, I can be a tigress!’

  Lucia laughed and hugged her. ‘Then we shall do very well here!’ She walked across to the window, which overlooked the square’s private gardens. ‘Knowing my great-aunt, she chose this room for me in the hope I would be disturbed by the noise and bustle of the square, but the aspect is very pretty, as I shall tell her over dinner. Now, you had best go and unpack your own things, Morry, and leave me to finish off here. I have managed without a maid for years now, so I am sure I shall cope. Oh, by the bye, I have told my aunt that you must join us for dinner. No protests, Morry, you are here as my companion, and I insist that you should be treated as a guest. So off you go now, but call for me at the dinner hour and we shall support each other through the coming ordeal!’

  Dinner was served in a dining room that was almost as chilly as Lady Quidenham’s manner. The truce that had held during their protracted journey was at an end and the dowager lost no time in resuming hostilities.

  ‘I hope you do not expect me to accompany you out and about tomorrow. It always takes me several days to recover from the exigencies of the journey.’

  ‘I would not dream of your exerting yourself so soon,’ Lucy replied sweetly. ‘You may recline upon the sofa while I make a list of all your acquaintances and we will send out invitations to a little soirée you are going to hold, to introduce me into society.’

  ‘A soirée? No. I never entertain.’

  ‘That is what will make it all the more special, Aunt.’ Lucia smiled, in no wise discomposed. ‘Pray, do not look so anxious, ma’am. I will arrange the whole. Three weeks should be sufficient notice, don’t you think? You shall set the day to suit yourself, too. All you need do is to be there on the night.’

  In vain did Lady Quidenham protest. Lucia countered her every argument, and all with a smiling good humour that only added to the dowager’s choler. When the meal was over she led the way back to the drawing room in high dudgeon. Miss Morrison, although she was in ignorance of the hold Lucia had over her aunt, did have some experience of Lucia’s strong will and thus felt a little sympathy for the old lady. She overcame her terror of her hostess sufficiently to escort Lady Quidenham to her chair and moved the fire-screen to a more satisfactory position.

  Lucy watched this little episode with interest, half-expecting poor Morry to be rebuffed, but Lady Quidenham, quite unused to having her wishes opposed, was still smarting from the experience and accepted Miss Morrison’s efforts in silence. There followed a half hour of stilted conversation, until the tea tray was brought in and the dowager asked Lucia to make herself useful.

  As she busied herself with the teapot, Lucy said, ‘If you would rather not venture out, Aunt, then perhaps Morry and I will visit my cousin in Orchard Street in the morning. I should like to see how she has settled in.’

  ‘I thought you wished to compile my invitation list,’ retorted Lady Quidenham. ‘If you have forgotten that already….’

  Lucy laughed. ‘No, I have not forgotten it, ma’am, but you said yourself you never leave your room until eleven.’ She handed her aunt a cup of tea. ‘We shall be back by then, I assure you.’

  The dowager’s eyes narrowed dangerously and Miss Morrison stepped into the breach, saying with a little laugh, ‘Dear Lucia has so much energy! I vow I am fatigued just watching her.’

  ‘But watch her you must,’ snapped Lady Quidenham. ‘I may be lending her countenance while she is in Town, but that does not give her leave to kick up a scandal.’

  ‘Oh no, I have no wish to do that,’ Lucy assured her. ‘All I want to do is to meet the right sort of people. Mamas who think that gowns from the modiste who supplies Lady Quidenham’s niece will help to launch their daughters into the ton.’

  The dowager’s claw-like hand tightened over the head of her ebony cane.

  ‘By heaven, madam, you think very highly of yourself!’

  ‘No, no, I think very highly of Grace’s talent. She made the travelling gown I wore on the journey, and you said yourself it was exquisitely tailored. And she also designed this gown.’

  Lucia stood up and gave a little twirl, causing the Van Dyke points of her lace overdress to swing out.

  Miss Morrison sighed. ‘It is quite exquisite. The silver thread embroidery catches the candlelight like twinkling stars, do you not agree, ma’am?’

  Lady Quidenham’s response was a scornful ‘Hmph!’

  Lucy caught Morry’s eye and they shared a rueful smile.

  ‘Of course,’ she said, resuming her seat. ‘We must wait until we see what else is in vogue this season, but I am very hopeful that Grace’s artistry will arouse some interest.

  ‘As will the wearer.’ Miss Morrison smiled mistily at her charge. ‘I shouldn’t be at all surprised if you were to find yourself with a great many beaux.’

  ‘Heavens, that is the last thing I want,’ declared Lucy. ‘It will not do for me to encourage any particular gentleman’s attentions. It is the ladies’ interest I need to catch. I want them to be saying, “My dear, where did you get that gown? It is quite perfect, and just the sort of thing my little Hattie or Jocasta or Chloe needs to make her stand out from the crowd!”’

  ‘So you have no ambitions to marry well?’ Lady Quidenham gave a little snort of derision. ‘Perhaps you expect to fall in love!’

  ‘Oh no,’ Lucia answered her coolly. ‘I have seen where that may lead and I mean to remain single. Once Grace’s business is up and running, Morry and I will join her and we shall all three live in happy and man-free independence.’

  Lady Quidenham looked as if she thought this a preposterous idea, but she did not argue, merely putting down her empty cup and announcing in a querulous voice that she was too fatigued to remain any longer. Miss Morrison flew from her chair.

  ‘Dear ma’am, let me give you my arm to your be
dchamber. I think I shall retire, too, for it has been a long day, has it not? What with the journey, and all the unpacking. Not that you will have had to worry about that. I am sure Miss Fixby has put everything to rights for you.’

  Lucia watched her friend leave the room with Lady Quidenham leaning heavily on her arm. She knew that she, too, must retire soon, although she did not feel in the least fatigued, but that was because she was positively sizzling with excitement. Her big adventure was about to begin!

  From the moment Lucia had announced her Grand Plan, the three of them had worked hard, poring over fashion plates, buying materials and re-using what they could from the clothes they had discovered in the attics to provide a range of new outfits. A chintz polonaise was transformed into an elegant morning gown and more creations followed, morning dresses, evening- and ball-gowns made from rich tulles and silks, while heavier materials were used to make a variety of spencers, pelisses and cloaks. Even the richly embroidered panels of the sumptuous ballgowns were turned into reticules and larger bags.

  Lucia and Miss Morrison spent long hours sewing seams, making petticoats and ruching frills, but it was Grace who sketched out the designs and her clever fingers that fashioned the fabrics into beautiful clothes that copied or even excelled the designs found in the various magazines by giving them a little twist all of her own. Nothing was wasted. Spangles from a stomacher were carefully unpicked and sewn along the edges of a fine lace evening shawl and ostrich feathers were dyed and used to decorate a fetching poke bonnet.

  By the time Lucia had signed the lease on a house in Orchard Street, not only did she have a complete wardrobe, but the carriage hired to take Grace to London was packed full of caps, bonnets, reticules, cloaks and loose gowns to stock the shelves of Grace ‘s reception rooms.

  And tomorrow, thought Lucia, as she climbed into bed, she would see the new shop for herself.

  CHAPTER FOUR

  Orchard Street was just a short walk from Lady Quidenham’s residence in Portman Square and early the following morning, Lucy and Miss Morrison sallied forth to visit the new establishment. The property was leased with funds released from Lucia’s inheritance, and as she and Morry crossed the road towards it, Lucia felt a burst of pride. The house had been painted, the windows cleaned and the brass plaque beside the yellow door positively sparkled in the spring sunshine. A young maid in a snow-white cap and apron showed them into the parlour, where Grace was waiting to greet them.

  They kept up the pretence of being customers until the door closed upon the servant, then Grace ran towards them, arms outstretched.

  ‘Lucia, Morry, how glad I am to see you!’

  After they had greeted one another in a flurry of hugs, kisses and even a few tears, Miss Morrison clasped her hands together and looked around the room.

  ‘Well,’ she exclaimed, ‘you have set this out very well, my dear. Very well indeed. That poke-bonnet catches the eye on its stand over there, and the reticules and sabretache bags look much better on the shelves than they did in the cottage!’

  ‘I know, I am very proud of them,’ replied Grace, blushing a little. ‘I went exploring in New Bond Street to see how they do things there. I was tempted to put one or two things in the window, but I recalled Lucia’s advice.’

  ‘You are very right not to do so,’ replied Lucy. ‘I very well remember that in Bath the best and most fashionable modistes are most discreet. Only the brass nameplate distinguishes their shop from the other houses. Now, have the trade cards I ordered arrived?’

  ‘Yes, they came this morning. And I saw the notice you had sent to the Gazette.’ Grace ran over to a cupboard and took out a newspaper, folded open to show the announcement. ‘It appeared a few days ago, look. It was very strange, seeing my name in print. “Miss Grace Bower’s dressmaking establishment in Orchard Street is now open, providing an outstanding display of millinery, dresses, head-dresses and all the accoutrements required by the fashionable lady. Miss Bower can provide riding habits, wedding dresses, gowns for morning, evening and fancy balls. Unique and fashionable designs to suit every occasion.”’ She looked up. ‘Oh heavens, Cousin, what if I cannot meet these expectations?’

  ‘Why should you not?’ Lucy took her hands in a sustaining grasp. ‘You are a very talented seamstress. Customers will come, I promise you.’

  Grace said shyly, ‘I had a very haughty lady come in yesterday to look about.’

  ‘There you are, then! And what price did you put upon your work?’

  ‘As we agreed, Lucia. I almost trembled to ask so much. It seems very expensive.’

  ‘Fashionable gowns are expensive, Grace. The ton will expect to pay a great deal or they will think your work shabby. Did the lady order anything?’

  ‘Yes.’ She swallowed visibly. ‘She took away one of the embroidered silk reticules and she wants the walking dress with ribboned sleeves à la mameluke. She is to come back on Thursday for me to take her measurements.’

  ‘Then that is an excellent start! And have you advertised for workers, as I instructed?’

  ‘Yes. I already have one seamstress, a widow, who is also a skilled milliner. She is upstairs in the workshop and her work is very satisfactory. Another woman will be joining her next week.’

  ‘Good. And as soon as business is established we will take on an apprentice, perhaps two. Now, have you ordered the muslins you require? And are you saving all the receipts, as we agreed? When Morry is not required to chaperon me to parties she will come along and keep the accounts for you. It is best that she comes of an evening, when you are alone. We do not want anyone to know of your connection with Lady Quidenham ‘

  They spent another hour discussing business, then Lucia and Morry took their leave.

  ‘A customer already,’ declared Miss Morrison. ‘That must be a good sign.’

  ‘Indeed. And Grace has employed her own staff without any help from us. She is showing great promise, I think. Now, shall we take a stroll to Bond Street? I am glad there is a chill in the air, it makes my redingote with its fur collar and matching muff very appropriate.’ Lucy chuckled. ‘We must thank Grandmama for leaving us her sable-lined mantle!’

  They explored several of the shops in New Bond Street and Lucia was well pleased with the results of their first outing. She had received a very appraising stare from the owner of one milliner’s establishment and the woman’s subsequent manner showed that she considered Lucia might be a customer of some importance. Lucy made a note to mention this to Grace when they next met. Clearly her made-over clothes had passed the first test.

  They arrived back in Portman Square at noon and after going upstairs to divest herself of her coat and hat, Lucy went in search of her great-aunt. She found her sitting at the desk in the morning room, pen in hand.

  ‘Ah, there you are, Lucia. I have just completed a list of guests for the soirée.’ She observed Lucia’s look of surprise and added gruffly. ‘As you insist on my holding such a party, I suppose I must stir myself.’

  ‘Indeed, Aunt Evadne, I am delighted that you are taking an interest in the proceedings.’ She took the list and perused it. ‘None of these names are familiar to me, but I presume they are all your friends?’

  ‘I would call them more nodding acquaintances. When I come to Town, I might see a few of my old friends at private parties, but I do not go into society.’

  ‘Oh, that is a pity. We must be a little more sociable this season.’

  ‘I have no intention of being sociable,’ snapped the dowager.

  ‘No, no Aunt, I quite understand. And that reminds me of something. Miss Morrison will not be joining us for dinner in future. I know I insisted upon it at first, but she prefers to keep her own company, as do you, so I know you will not object. As for going into company, you need not stir yourself so very much,’ replied Lucia, in soothing accents. ‘Once I am a little more established, there are any number of trifling ailments that will keep you at home, then Morry shall accompany me.’

  With
that, she sailed off before her aunt could let loose the acid rejoinder that was clearly bursting to escape from her lips.

  Lady Quidenham might take a week to recover from the exigencies of the journey, but Lucia was impatient to be out and about. The following day she sailed forth with Miss Morrison to explore even more of the shops in and around New Bond Street. They were not a whit put off by the overcast sky and persistent drizzle and spent a fascinating morning browsing the shop windows and even stepping inside one or two of the more interesting premises.

  The proprietors and assistants of these establishments did not recognise the young lady and her companion, but their experienced eyes could not doubt that she was Quality. She carried herself with an air of confidence, and her style might be a little out of the ordinary, but there was no mistaking the workmanship of the green poke bonnet that covered her dark curls, nor the exquisite stitching of the matching redingote that became her dainty figure.

  They were very happy to answer her questions, delivered with pretty deference, and they laid out selections of their finest wares for her inspection. They pulled down bolts of fine materials, brought out their most stylish head- or footwear and displayed the latest pattern books and fashion plates to show her. The lady purchased nothing, but she showed such interest, and spoke to them in such a friendly manner that they had no doubt that she would be back soon.

  In one shop, a busy haberdasher, Lucia made several purchases of gloves, stockings, ribbons and even a pretty parasol, all designed to set off Grace’s cleverly-worked creations. However, the various items made a far larger parcel than she had anticipated and she was a little dismayed at the thought of carrying it around with them for the rest of the morning.

  She asked if it could be put aside, to be collected later, and the eager young assistant was only too willing to help such an affable, pleasantly-spoken customer.

  ‘Of course, ma’am,’ he said. ‘Or we might have it sent on for you?’