Siberian Huskies For Dummies

by Diane Morgan

  If you shell out the money for a show catalog (which usually costs about $5) you can see the names and addresses of the exhibitors. If you notice a dog whose looks you especially like, don’t hesitate to contact the owners after the show. They should be pleased with your effusive compliments and be happy to point you along the path toward getting your very own Siberian.

  You may get really lucky and be able to view one of the few benched shows left in the country. A benched show is one in which all the dogs in competition are on display (although not necessarily actually on a bench) all day. Breeders hate these shows, because they’re hard on the dogs and themselves, but spectators love them. The most prestigious All-Breed Shows are benched, which is why exhibitors continue to subject themselves to them. These shows include the legendary Westminster Show, and five others — two in Chicago, and one each in Detroit, Philadelphia, and San Francisco.

  Interview a breeder before deciding to buy a puppy from him

  Check out the breeder personally. Here are the marks of a quality breeder:

  A quality breeder specializes in only one or two breeds.

  A quality breeder has puppies for sale only occasionally, not every day of the year, and especially not specifically for the holidays. Many breeders will not even sell a puppy around the holidays, precisely because people tend to buy pups as presents for people who may not be prepared to care for them.

  A quality breeder makes her kennel areas available for viewing. The kennels should be clean, comfortable, and odor-free. The puppies should be kept safe in a whelping box, like those shown in Figure 3-1.

  Figure 3-1: These healthy Siberian puppies are kept safe in a whelping box.

  Jeanette and Dominic DiBalsi

  A quality breeder has developed a breeding plan with the goal of producing high-quality Siberians.

  A quality breeder has well-socialized dogs and puppies. The dogs and puppies interact well with you and with each other.

  A quality breeder does not sell inexpensive dogs. A good pet-quality puppy will cost in the range of $450 to $500. If you think you may like to show your dog, expect to pay even more.

  Remember that choosing a pup for show purposes is always a gamble. No one, not even the sharpest-eyed breeder on earth, can accurately predict which puppies will “make it.” This works both ways, however. I once purchased a puppy as a pet, who turned out to be a winning show dog much to everyone’s surprise, including mine. The breeder should be able to explain to you exactly why she undertook this particular breeding, and what she expected from it. Her response can give you some idea of whether the dog would be good for showing.

  Quality breeders have people waiting in line for their dogs. Six months or more is not an unreasonable time to have to wait for a puppy. Just think how much you can learn about Siberians in that period.

  Quality breeders will not sell puppies before they are at least 9 weeks old. Breeders who are showing or racing may keep puppies longer, because they are trying to evaluate the litter for show or sled potential.

  Quality breeders have healthy puppies. The puppies should have been vet checked and vaccinated. The sire (father) and dam (mother) should have been screened for genetic diseases. In particular, they should be certified by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) with a minimum rating of “good.” They should also have had recent eye checks and be certified by the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF) or the Siberian Husky Ophthalmologic Registry (SHOR), with a rating of “clear.” The eye checks are very important in Huskies. Make sure you see this paperwork; don’t just take the breeder’s word for it.

  Quality breeders are actively engaged in showing or racing, and they should have the ribbons to prove it. They are involved in their local Siberian Husky Club. If you don’t have a recommendation, ask for the name and phone numbers of other people who have bought puppies from the breeder. Then call them to see how their dogs turned out.

  Quality breeders provide an AKC registration paper, often referred to as a blue slip. A pedigree is the family history of your puppy. It should go back three generations, but you can apply (for a fee) for a longer one, if you want.

  One or both parents of your puppy should be champions or winning sled dogs. If they aren’t, find out why. If you are buying a sled dog, find out what his parents have accomplished. (The AKC does not currently provide titles for sled dogs, so it won’t be recorded on the pedigree.) The Siberian Husky Club of America, however, does grant titles: SD for Sled Dog, SDX for Sled Dog Excellent, and SDO for Sled Dog Outstanding.

  The initials Ch. in front of a dog’s name means it is an AKC champion. CD (Companion Dog), CDX (Companion Dog Excellent), or UD (Utility Dog) after the name means the dog has an obedience title. If you see a UDX (Utility Dog Excellent) in the family history, be very surprised. Only a handful of Siberians have achieved that level. TD (Tracking Dog), TDX (Tracking Dog Excellent), and VST (Variable Surface Tracking) are tracking titles. NA (Novice Agility), OA (Open Agility), AX (Agility Excellent) are just a few of the agility titles that a dog can earn. Sledding titles are not part of a dog’s AKC registration.

  Having both parents on the premises is not necessarily a sign of a good breeder. It may just mean that the seller owns two dogs of opposite sexes; it’s no guarantee of quality. Breeders frequently outcross to a particular sire who may live across the country. Some of the best bred dogs are the result of artificial insemination or a long-distance liaison. The breeder should be able to provide you with a photo of the sire, however. (The dam should obviously be on the premises.) Take a good look at her, but don’t be alarmed if she’s a bit bald. Sometimes the hormonal changes that come with pregnancy produce this effect. The puppies should all have hair, though.

  Quality breeders will interview you. Although you may find some of the breeder’s questions intrusive, a good breeder is only trying to choose the best home for his puppies.

  Quality breeders will have a purchase agreement for you to sign. Don’t be surprised if the breeder requires that you spay or neuter your Husky as part of the deal. That’s the breeder’s way of making sure that only his very top-of-the-line dogs will be out there propagating. Keep an eye on your growing Husky. If you think you may have a show-quality dog after all, call the breeder and ask her to evaluate him for you.

  For many AKC events, only unneutered/unspayed dogs can be shown.

  The purchase agreement should also provide a certain number of days for you to get your puppy checked by your veterinarian. The breeder agrees to replace an unhealthy puppy or to refund your money. Some contracts even require this. Make sure you get your puppy checked immediately. It may save you heartache.

  Quality breeders will agree to take back a puppy who doesn’t work out. Discuss the details of this beforehand.

  Most quality breeders raise their puppies in the household. Although some show and sledding breeders keep their pups in a kennel, you’re risking getting a dog insufficiently socialized with human beings. Don’t do it if your primary interest is getting a good pet.

  Quality breeders provide more information than you can absorb. Most of them will chat on and on about their breeding goals. Learn what you can, but make sure anything really important will be given to you in writing.

  A quality breeder will stay in touch, long after the puppy becomes yours.

  Good breeders often try to hang on to their puppies as long as possible. Some breeders who are looking for good show and working prospects often won’t sell a puppy until close to the 12-week mark. If possible, you should arrange to get your puppy a little earlier — 9 to 10 weeks is ideal. After all, you want your puppy to bond with you, not with the breeder or the kennel help. If the puppies are kept in a kennel without much human contact, you should try to get your puppy as close to 8 weeks as you can. Dogs separated from their litters too early, however, may have problems adjusting to other dogs in the future.

  Some people have had good luck buying from
a distant breeder, possibly without even first seeing the puppy, and having the puppy shipped to them. I never recommend doing this. You really need to see your new puppy before buying him. Besides, dogs sometimes get lost on airplanes, just like your baggage does.

  Choosing the Right Puppy

  When you’ve decided on a breeder, you’re ready to start thinking about what you want in a puppy. Being faced with a whole litter of adorable pups (like the 9-day-old little ones in Figure 3-2) can be difficult. They’re all adorable. But be sure to look at the whole litter, not just one dog; you need to be able to make comparisons. Ask the breeder whether this is the first litter from this sire and dam, or whether the pair have been mated previously. If the latter is the case, ask to see photos of the grown up puppies from the first litter. (If the breeder has kept in touch with previous buyers, as she should, these should be available.) These photos are the best guess as to how the current litter will turn out.

  General condition

  The puppies should be active and plump, but not bloated. A bloated belly is a sign of roundworm. Although many puppies are born with roundworm, it shouldn’t be evident at the buying stage. The stools should be fairly firm and well-formed. There should be no evidence of diarrhea or staining under the tail. Foul breath in a puppy may indicate problems, although many are blessed with a characteristic puppy breath, which smells a little like garlic. Male show-quality puppies must have two testicles, which should be detectable at a young age. (This is one of the things a vet will check if you’re uncertain.)

  Figure 3-2: These 9-day-old Siberians aren’t anywhere near old enough to go home with new owners, but they give you an idea of how hard it is to choose between several equally adorable pups.

  Jeanette and Dominic DiBalsi

  Size

  Siberian puppies should be compact in build. Expect some differences in size, especially between male and female puppies. The biggest may not necessarily be the best; the biggest is just the biggest. In a show ring, a Siberian can be disqualified for being too big, so if you’re interested in a show prospect, you may be better off not getting the biggest, especially if both parents are very close to the upper limit.

  Sex

  Female dogs tend to housetrain more easily, mature sooner, and be less dominant than males. Some people think they are more loyal. Females are less strong than their brothers, however, which may be a consideration if you will be doing serious sledding. For recreational sledding, either sex is fine.

  Females are usually more loving (some would say demanding) and probably easier to train. Males are more physically impressive and stronger. They are probably more independent and challenging of human authority than females.

  Some people claim that males have a better temper than females. If true, it may be because the female’s heat cycle causes hormonal swings. In any case, unless you plan to be a breeder, you will have your Husky spayed or neutered, which eliminates these hormonal mood swings. In general, I recommend a female for families with small children, because they tend to be tolerant of children’s mistakes.

  Color

  Most Huskies are born dark, except those destined to be pure white. The characteristic Siberian masks will be present in puppies, but their coat colors may change somewhat as they mature.

  Eyes

  The puppy’s eyes should be bright and clear, no matter what color they are. Dark blue eyes may change into brown later on.

  Ears

  Most authorities agree that Siberians have some of the keenest ears in the dog world. Some Siberian puppies have floppy ears. Don’t worry; they’ll stand up later. The ears should have no discharge or unpleasant odor.

  Sometimes a Husky’s ears will revert to floppiness when he’s going through his teething period.

  Temperament

  The puppy should be friendly and curious. A shy puppy will grow up to be a shy dog. Step a few feet away, crouch down, and call to the puppy softly and encouragingly. If the puppy toddles over to you, it probably means that he has a happy, friendly disposition.

  Don’t confuse normal boisterous play with a neurotic condition sometimes called spinning. Sometimes pups who have been confined in too-small kennel areas display a compulsive whirling round and round. Avoid these puppies. They have been severely traumatized and will never be normal.

  Many breeders today do a temperament test on their dogs. These tests look for early signs of assertiveness, outgoingness, and so on. The results are usually given numerically. In one popular test, the Puppy Aptitude Test, the scores range from 1 to 5, with 1 leaning toward the dominant, aggressive, watchdog side, and 5 being very submissive or lethargic. For most pet purposes, you would like to see a puppy score close to 3. (Potential watchdogs score 1, show dogs 2, and so on.) Of course, these tests are not foolproof, but they can give you an indication of temperament when you have nothing better to go on.

  Age

  Puppies should be at least 8 weeks old when they are adopted. This is the legal minimum in many states. If you are planning on sledding, you may want to leave the puppy with his littermates for a longer period of time to increase his peer socialization skills. If your pup is destined to be an only dog, you want to get him closer to the 8-week mark, so that he will bond with you.

  Don’t be scared off from getting an older puppy, or even an adult dog. Siberians are not one-person dogs. They are able to form a bond with people at any age. Dogs often end up in rescue or an animal shelter through no fault of their own. With Siberians, it is usually because the first owner was unprepared to deal with the Husky’s relentless energy or the shedding that comes with the breed. You will be doing a good deed, building good karma, and saving a life. What could be nicer?

  Puppies are cute and charming, but they aren’t housetrained, and are usually quite interested in chewing everything in sight. Besides, puppyhood doesn’t last forever.

  Older dogs are usually house-trained, and very grateful to have a new home. The older dog is often the perfect choice for older people as well. Considering that Siberians may live for 15 years, it may make more sense for an older person to choose a pet who will not outlive him! Besides, an older dog is quieter around the house and needs less exercise. I have an older friend who adopted a quite elderly female, saying that they could be old ladies together.

  It may be difficult to housetrain an older dog who is used to being outside all the time. If your new older dog has been confined in a kennel for a while before you have adopted him for a house dog, expect that his housetraining skills may not be up to par. Prepare to teach him all over again. Siberians are extremely anxious to please in this regard. On the positive side, though, older dogs have bigger bladders than puppies, and they can hold it much more easily.

  Exploring Other Sources for Getting a Husky

  If you’re willing to consider an older dog, you may be pleasantly surprised with the great dogs, like the one shown in Figure 3-3, who are available and in need of a loving home through shelters or rescue organizations. Check out the following sections for more information.

  Shelters

  Perhaps a young puppy is not for you, or maybe you would like to provide a loving home to a previously unwanted or neglected dog. In this case, try your local Siberian Husky Rescue, your county shelter, the Humane Society, or the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). Usually, adopting and acclimating an older dog is a much less time-consuming task than it is with a puppy.

  Figure 3-3: This beautiful Husky was rescued from a garage sale. After being given lots of love and affection by her new family, she makes a wonderful pet.

  Jolie and Kimberly Runyan

  Try to find out all you can about your prospective new family member. Play with him, take him for a walk. See how he reacts to children, cats, and other dogs. Find out if your local shelter does temperament testing before placing a dog on an adoption list. Sometimes you may also be able to contact the former owner to get more information about the dog and why he
was given up. Get all his medical records if possible, and take him to the vet for a checkup as soon as possible.

  It’s usually a bad idea to give or take on a new dog at the holidays. First of all, the holidays are an extremely busy time of year with lots of people coming and going. There’s a risk that the new family member will get either too much or too little attention, and he’ll certainly be overwhelmed by the confusion of the company. A quieter season, when there’s plenty of get-acquainted time, is better.

  Never give a pet as a present. People should choose their own dogs. Even though you know that a Siberian is the best pet for Aunt Hilda, she may have her heart set on a guinea pig. Shelter and rescue groups are overwhelmed every February and March with the annual holiday “dump.” Think of it this way: If the new pet does not work out, are you willing to adopt him into your family?