Book Read Free

Preserves

Page 15

by Pam Corbin


  ingredients 46–9

  jelly bags 41, 47

  making perfect 51

  medlar 70

  quince 70

  redcurrant jelly 62, 63

  rosehip and apple jelly 78

  rowan jelly 78

  setting point 49

  spicy crab apple jelly 78

  ketchups 32, 188

  rhubarb 195

  roasted tomato ketchup 195

  saucy haw ketchup 205

  Kilner (screw-band) jars 160, 161, 164

  kitchen scales 41

  labelling jars 34

  large grain preserving sugar 35

  leathers 45, 72, 73

  leeks 15

  lemon(s) 13, 126

  Bramley lemon curd 74, 75

  marmalade with honey 54

  preserved 126

  squash 136

  Le Parfait (clip) jars 160, 161, 166

  lids 30, 31

  liqueurs see cordials and liqueurs

  Liz’s luscious raspberries 182

  local produce 13

  loganberries 14, 48

  bottled 167

  Mabey, Richard, Food for Free 138

  malt vinegar 37

  marigold (Calendula officinalis) 192

  marmalades 13, 15, 44

  filling and sealing jars 32

  ideal shelf life 34

  lemon marmalade with honey 54

  making perfect 50

  Marmalade Festival 213

  onion marmalade 125

  setting point 49

  Seville and ginger marmalade 54

  Seville orange marmalade 52, 53–

  sliced fruit method 53

  three-fruit marmalade 54

  whisky marmalade 54

  whole fruit method 54

  marrows 15, 108

  measuring jugs and spoons 41

  medlars 48, 70, 210

  Melissa’s chestnut jam 87

  meringue nests, chestnut jam in 87

  micro-organisms 26, 29, 30

  mincemeats 45

  apple, pear and ginger mincemeat 82

  ideal shelf life 34

  plum and russet mincemeat 82, 83

  mint 62

  syrup 146, 147

  moulds 27

  moulis 41

  mulberries

  bottled 167

  pectin and acid levels 48

  mulled pears 174, 174

  Mum’s blackcurrant jam 64

  muscovado sugar 35–7

  muslin 41

  spice bags 97

  nasturtiums

  garden pesto 191–2

  nasturtium ‘capers’ 110, 111

  nasturtium vinegar 149

  nectarines, bottled 162

  nettles 13

  nice spice oil 201

  Northern England, fruit-growing regions 19, 20, 22

  officer’s (bachelor’s) jam 156

  oil-based preserves

  filling and sealing jars 32

  harissa paste 196

  pesto 34, 103, 188, 191–2, 192

  vegetables in oil 34, 188, 189, 193, 198

  oils 26, 38–9

  flavoured oils 188, 200, 201

  olive oil 39

  onions 15

  onion marmalade 125

  pickled onions 120, 121

  oranges

  candied orange sticks 88, 89

  St Clement’s squash 136

  oven temperatures 217

  paper coffee filters 41

  peaches

  bottled 160, 162

  in fruit syrups and liqueurs 132

  leather 73

  pectin and acid levels 48

  pickled peaches 119

  pears 15

  apple, pear and ginger mincemeat 82, 83

  bottled 160, 162, 167

  in fruit syrups and liqueurs 132

  mulled pears 174, 174

  Pear Day 213

  pectin and acid levels 48

  regional varieties 19, 22

  seasonal chutney 109

  spiced pickled pears 119

  pectin 46–7, 61

  homemade pectin stock 47

  peppers 210

  chilli pepper jelly 101

  preserved in oil 198

  pesto 34, 103, 188, 191–2, 192

  piccalilli 94, 114

  pickles

  clear 94

  figgy mostardo 123

  fruit in 97

  ideal shelf life 34

  jars, filling and sealing 30, 32

  making perfect 99

  nasturtium ‘capers’ 110, 111

  pickled Florence fennel 104, 105

  pickled garlic 102, 103

  pickled horseradish 106

  pickled onions 120, 121

  runner bean pickle 117

  salt in 96

  spiced pickled pears 119

  spices in 97

  sweet cucumber pickle 113

  sweet pickled damsons 118

  vegetables in 97

  vinegar in 96–7

  pickling spice 97

  plums 14, 15

  bottled 162, 167

  spiced brandy plums 176, 177

  in fruit syrups and liqueurs 132

  plum jam 69

  leather 73

  pectin and acid levels 48

  Pershore Plum Festival 215

  plumbeena 135

  regional varieties 19, 20, 22

  and russet mincemeat 82, 83

  seasonal chutney 109

  pontack (elderberry) sauce 202, 203

  potatoes 10

  preserved lemons 126

  preserving pans 39–41

  preserving thermometers 41

  prunes 180

  pumpkins 109

  quinces 15, 210

  pectin and acid levels 48

  quince and apple sauce 185

  quince cheese 84, 85

  quince jelly 70

  seasonal chutney 109

  rapeseed oil 39, 191, 213

  raspberries 10, 14, 15, 20

  bottled 167

  Liz’s luscious raspberries 182

  Hugh’s prize-winning raspberry fridge jam 67

  raspberry vinegar 150, 151

  recycling jars and bottles 29, 31

  redcurrants 13, 14, 47, 144

  cordial 62

  currant shrub 144

  jelly 62, 63

  juice 49

  making pectin stock 47

  pectin and acid levels 48

  relishes 94

  chilli pepper jelly 101

  filling and sealing jars 30, 32

  ideal shelf life 34

  roasted sweet beet relish 106

  spring rhubarb relish 100

  see also chutneys

  rhubarb 13, 15

  bottled 164, 167

  early rhubarb with honey 168

  early (‘forced’) 20, 210

  early rhubarb jam 56

  pectin and acid levels 48

  regional varieties 19, 20

  rhubarb ketchup 195

  rhubeena 135

  seasonal chutney 109

  Spring Festival of Food, Drink and Rhubarb 215

  spring rhubarb relish 100

  sweet pickled rhubarb 118

  rock salt 38

  rosehips 15

  rosehip and apple jelly 78

  hedgerow jelly 77

  rosehip syrup 152

  rowan berries 14

  hedgerow jelly 77

  pectin and acid levels 48

  rowan jelly 78

  ‘ruby red’ marmalade 54

  rumtopf 156

  runner bean pickle 117

  safe keeping 34

  sage, elixir of 143

  St Clement’s squash 136

  salt 26, 38, 210, 213

  dry-salting 96

  making brine 96

  in pickles and chutneys 96

  samphire, spiced samphire vinegar 149

  sauces 32, 34,
188

  Scotland, fruit-growing in 19, 20, 22

  screw-band (Kilner) jars 160, 161, 164

  sealing jars 30–1, 32

  sea salt 38

  seasonal produce 10–17

  setting point 49

  Seville orange(s) 13, 15, 46

  Seville and ginger marmalade 54

  Seville orange marmalade 52, 53–

  sieves 41

  sizes of jars 30

  sloes 15

  hedgerow jelly 77

  pectin and acid levels 48

  sloe gin 154–5, 155

  slotted spoons 41

  souper mix 73, 206, 207

  Southern/South-west England, fruit-growing regions

  19, 22

  spiced brandy plums 176, 177

  spiced pickled pears 119

  spiced samphire vinegar 149

  spices

  in chutney and pickles 97, 98

  in cordials, liqueurs and vinegars 132

  grinding 97

  nice spice oil 201

  spice infusers 41

  spoilage in food 26–7

  spoons 41

  spring rhubarb relish 100

  squashes (fruit syrups) 130

  lemon 136

  sterilising

  bottles 31

  jars 29, 160

  lids 31

  pectin stock 47

  storage 34

  strawberries 13, 14

  bottled 167

  in fruit syrups and liqueurs 132

  jam 61

  fridge jam 67

  pectin and acid levels 48

  regional varieties 19, 20, 22

  vinegar 150

  sugar 26, 35–7, 132, 213

  in jams and jellies 49

  sugar thermometers 41

  sunflower oil 39

  syrups 130

  for bottled fruit 162

  filling and sealing jars 32

  mint syrup 146, 147

  rosehip syrup 152

  shelf life and keepability 133

  tartare sauce, nasturtium 111

  tayberries 14, 20, 22

  thermometers 41

  three-fruit marmalade 54

  tomatoes 14

  bottled 167

  roasted tomato passata 173

  roasted tomato ketchup 195

  roasted tomato purée 106

  savoury leather 73

  seasonal chutney 108

  slow-dried tomatoes in oil 193

  trifle 67

  twist-on lids 31

  Vale of Evesham 19

  vegetables

  in chutney and pickles 97

  in oil 34, 188, 189

  asparagus 198

  slow-dried tomatoes 193

  souper mix 206, 207

  vinegars 37

  flavoured 130, 132, 133, 149

  shelf life and keepability 133

  jars for vinegar preserves 30, 31

  mixed herb vinegar 149

  in pickles and chutneys 96–7, 99

  raspberry vinegar 150, 151

  walnuts

  plum jam 69

  plum and russet mincemeat 82, 83

  wassailing 90

  Western England, fruit-growing regions 19, 22

  whisky marmalade 54

  white currants 48

  wild garlic 13

  wine vinegars 37

  winter produce 15

  Women’s Institute (WI) 10, 215

  wooden spoons 41

  yeasts 27

  Yorkshire Triangle 20

  Acknowledgements

  When asked if I would write this book, I hadn’t realised just how many waking (and night-time) moments my thoughts would invariably be stuck in some form of jam jar or another. It’s been a huge privilege, giving me the opportunity to adventure into new, exciting and often stirring territories, all contained in the amazing world of preserving. However, it would not have been possible for me to do so without the immeasurable help and support of family, friends and acquaintances, who have journeyed with me, solidly supporting me throughout.

  First and foremost heartfelt thanks to Gavin Kingcome for his stunning photography, bringing ingredients and recipes alive, and for his steady patience on our photo-shoot days. Also to Nikki Duffy for her thoroughly attentive detail in checking recipes, thus reinforcing your success and victory in the jam pan.

  Thank you to friends and neighbours in and around the Uplyme Valleys for their open generosity in allowing me to beg and sometimes steal produce from over the garden wall. I would particularly like to thank John and Henriette Wood for giving me a free rein to visit Rhode Hill Gardens – its rich bio-diversity quite the highlight of photo-shoot days.

  On the technical front, thanks to Liz Neville for her invaluable fund of preserving knowledge, and to the outstanding technical team at Wilkin & Sons Ltd.

  My thanks to the thoughtful and brilliant Bloomsbury team: Richard Atkinson, Natalie Hunt and Erica Jarnes; along with Will Webb for his outstanding work and ideas on the layout. Sincere thanks also to gifted editor Janet Illsley who meticulously and with great calm has perfectly potted, packed and sealed the book.

  Thank you to Trisha Bye for keeping my kitchen and jam jars in apple pie order; and to her daughter Sophie for her jammy creativeness. Thanks also to Lois Wakeman for her ‘on the spot’ availability for eleventh hour photography.

  At home, thank you to my husband Hugh for his support at all times, particularly for his lack of complaint when I dropped a full 2-litre bottle of his amazingly good sloe gin. To Pip and Maddy, who have never faltered with their help, advice and enthusiasm, and have seemingly always shared family life with a ton or two of jam.

  A big thank you to Rob Love and the River Cottage team for their confidence that I could write the book. And last, but by no means least, immense thanks to Hugh F-W, warrior and leader of the seasonal and local revolution ... long may it last!

  Bloomsbury Publishing

  An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

  50 Bedford Square

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  1385 Broadway

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  www.bloomsbury.com

  This electronic edition published in 2018 by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

  BLOOMSBURY and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

  First published in Great Britain 2008

  Text © 2008 by Pam Corbin

  Photography © 2008 by Gavin Kingcome

  Additional photography © 2008 by Lois Wakeman

  Pam Corbin has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as Author of this work.

  All rights reserved

  You may not copy, distribute, transmit, reproduce or otherwise make available this publication (or any part of it) in any form, or by any means (including without limitation electronic, digital, optical, mechanical, photocopying, printing, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the publisher. Any person who does any unauthorised act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages.

  For legal purposes the acknowledgements and photography credits constitute an extension of this copyright page.

  No responsibility for loss caused to any individual or organization acting on or refraining from action as a result of the material in this publication can be accepted by Bloomsbury or the author.

  British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

  A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

  Library of Congress Cataloguing-in-Publication data has been applied for.

  ISBN: 978-0-7475-9532-8 (HB)

  ISBN: 978-1-4088-9630-3 (eBook)

  Project editor: Janet Illsley

  Design: willwebb.co.uk

  The publishers would also like to thank Sam Carlisle for his assistance.

&n
bsp; While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this book, in no circumstances can the publisher or the author accept any legal responsibility or liability for any loss or damage (including damage to property and/or personal injury) arising from any error in or omission from the information contained in this book, or from the failure of the reader to properly and accurately follow any instructions contained in the book. The recipes supplied in the book are for personal use only. No recipe may be used for commercial purposes without the express permission of the author.

  www.rivercottage.net

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