Garden Witch's Herbal

by Ellen Dugan

  Your Urban Witch Garden Site

  Blows the wind to-day,

  and the sun and the rain are flying …

  robert louis stevenson

  The site where you choose to create a container garden will become your own mini climate. A mini climate includes such things as the amount of sun and wind you will receive, wind exposure, and moisture levels. You must also take into consideration that neighboring buildings can affect sun and shade patterns by cutting off sunshine or reflecting more of light and heat back to you due to light-colored walls. The trick to discovering your site’s mini climate is observation. Keep a sharp watch on how much sun your balcony or deck receives and at what time of day, if any, that you have shade. The key thing here is when you have shade—if you have early morning shade and full sun from noon on, your site probably faces west. That is a sunny garden, and it will require heat-tolerant plants that need full sun.

  There are varying degrees of shade, too: full shade, dappled shade, and part shade. But which one do you have? Well, to help you sort that out, here are some basic guidelines for determining what type of sun exposure or shade you have. To begin, draw a simple diagram of your area. Then, beginning at sunrise, take notes on where your shade and sun patterns fall. Then at various times of the day—about every two hours—note the changes with dashed lines for sun and solid lines for shade. Make a little note alongside your drawings to mark the time. Yes, this will take all day, but it is important to do, so stick with it.

  You will also want to note where the shade patterns fall during the different seasons, so plan to make shade maps in spring, summer, and fall. For example, a sun-loving rose will require full sun—at least six hours a day—to look its best, so you’ll need to plan accordingly. These seasonal shade maps may be your most valuable tools in determining which plants you will be able to grow successfully.

  Sun and Shade Patterns

  Leaves of the summer, lovely summer’s pride,

  Sweet is the shade below your silent tree.

  william barnes

  Less Than 2 Hours of Sunlight = Full Shade. Plant suggestions are bugle, columbine, dead nettle, ferns, hostas, ivy, lily of the valley, monarda, mints, periwinkle, Solomon’s seal, tansy, and violets. Consider that light-painted walls will help to reflect sunlight and warm up your shady garden.

  2–6 Hours of Sunlight = Partial Shade. These plants should thrive: angelica, astilbe, betony (aka lamb’s ears), black cohosh, catmint, coral bells, ferns, foxglove, heliotrope, hostas, lady’s mantle, mallows, mint, pansy, soapwort, and sweet woodruff.

  6–12 Hours of Sunlight = Full Sun. Look for heat-tolerant plants such as rosemary, lavender, coneflowers, sunflower, santolinas, and scented geraniums. You will also have great luck with culinary herbs and roses if you do not allow them to dry out. Exposed sites, such as rooftops, penthouses, terraces, and balconies, often receive six to twelve hours of sunlight per day and perhaps indirect sunlight as well.

  Wind and Rain Patterns

  Rain is grace; rain is the sky condescending to the earth;

  without rain, there would be no life.

  john updike

  Too much of a good thing may create its own challenges. Full sun and steady winds can cause problems. Plants can bake in strong summer heat. Excessive winds strip moisture out of plant leaves, which is known as transpiration. Transpiration is the process in which a plant loses water, primarily from the leaf stomata (the pores in the epidermis of leaves and stems).

  There are four main factors that affect transpiration. These factors are light, temperature, relative wind, and humidity. How do you avoid this little situation? With regular watering and with mulch, my friend. Try adding an inch-deep layer of natural mulch to your planters. Also consider providing a little shade and/or a windbreak for those full-sun gardens with awnings, pergolas, and trellises.

  The next time it rains, you will also want to keep an eye on how precipitation falls on your chosen site and how the water drains. Some spots may stay completely dry, some areas may take in a bit of water, and some will receive a good soaking—so plan accordingly. Together, these growing conditions of shade, sun exposure, and rainfall patterns will help you determine what you can and cannot achieve in your urban Witch’s garden.

  Don’t panic now; go ahead and make your drawing. Find out how much shade or sunlight, wind and rain you will receive. Another quick method is to check out which direction your site is oriented to; use a compass if necessary. Here is an easy directional plant list with annual and perennial plant suggestions for color and structure. (This is a general rule of thumb only; remember those other site considerations that were discussed earlier. For more plant options, check out the plant list on page 29 as well.)

  South Facing. This is sunlight all day, which can be described as full sun. You should have success with the widest selection of plants and culinary herbs. Also try annual purple fountain grass, sunflowers, roses, geraniums, and petunias.

  East and West Facing. This is around six hours of sunlight, also considered full sun, but in the morning and evening respectively. East facing: hydrangeas, day lilies, morning glories, impatiens, and azaleas. West facing: geraniums, coreopsis, clematis, coneflowers, lavenders, and sunflowers.

  North Facing. This could be as little as two hours of sunlight per day. If you receive upwards of three to five hours of sun, this can be described as partial shade. Two hours or less of sunlight would be full shade. North-facing plants include begonias, bleeding hearts, hostas, ferns, hellebore, lily of the valley, and rhododendrons.

  No matter what your sun exposure, make the most out of the space you do have by arranging containers in groups that complement each other. Today, container gardening is one of the most popular forms of gardening. If you take a look around, you can discover myriad magazine articles and books devoted to the topic.

  Conjuring Container Gardens

  I know a little garden-close

  Set thick with lily and red rose,

  Where I would wander if I might

  From dewy dawn to dewy night.

  william morris

  Keep in mind that when you place large containers on decks, balconies, or rooftops, check the strength of the structure first. Find out if your building has weight limits or rules about heavy objects on balconies, as containers filled with soil can be very heavy. Conversely, small containers may be easily blown away. Find yourself a happy medium—try an intermediate-sized, lightweight container or use window boxes and fasten them down securely. You can also make use of hanging baskets. As you set up these containers, remember to utilize gravel or small rocks for the bottom two inches of the container to aid in drainage. Work with a high-quality potting mix and add lots of sterile compost to enrich your soil. Invest in some water-soluble fertilizer, and get ready to garden!

  You will notice that I have included various annuals, herbs, and perennials in these mixed pots for added color, height, and scent. As you assemble your individual containers, place the taller plants either in the back or center of the pot. Then place the medium-sized plants in front or around the tallest ones, with the shortest or trailing varieties around the outside edges. A trick that professionals use when designing pots and containers for sale is to plant them very full. Don’t scrimp on the plants! There is nothing sadder than a scrawny container that has to wait for two months of growth to fill in.

  Mix and match these suggested combinations however your Garden Witch’s heart desires. Just remember to coordinate the shade or sun tolerances of the plants. Plant many containers or a few large ones—whatever you have space for or would prefer. Now, here are some bewitching combinations that I have conjured up just for you. The sun requirements are listed first and then the plants.

  Practical Magick Container Gardens

  He could walk, or rather turn about in his little garden, and feel more solid happines
s from the flourishing of a cabbage or the growing of a turnip than was ever received from the most ostentatious show the vanity of man could possibly invent.

  sarah fielding

  Moonlit Magick

  (Part shade) Mugwort, nicotiana, betony, alyssum, and white petunias for scent and nighttime sparkle. Tuck in white zinnias to attract the butterflies.

  Sorcery in the Shade

  (Shade) Pansies, violas, ferns, hostas, ivy, and trailing mints. Look for chocolate or orange mint to add some fragrance. Plant variegated ivy to add some visual interest to the pot. Also, you can switch out the spring cool-weather-loving pansies with a colorful, shady annual like impatients for the hot summer months.

  Faerie Garden

  (Shade to part shade) Columbine, pansy, viola, foxglove, fern, periwinkle, ivy, annual blue lobelia, alyssum.

  Fragrant Fascinations

  (Full to part sun) A standard tree rose, lavender, alyssum, sage, pineapple sage, catmint, scented geraniums, coordinating shades of begonias and petunias for color. Add spicy dianthus (pinks) for color and more scent.

  Hedge Witch Hanging Basket

  (Sun to part sun) Look for prostrate varieties of herbs such as rosemary and thyme, the type of variety that “creeps” or trails. Nasturtiums make a nice trailing plant, as does scented bacopa. Strawberries make great hanging basket plants and require full sun. Try an ever-bearing variety of strawberry for plants that will produce fruit for a longer season.

  Kitchen Witchery

  (Full to part sun) Plant some of the classic Witch’s garden herbs: rosemary, basil, dill, parsley, bronze fennel, thyme, and tricolor sage.

  Faerie/Butterfly Garden

  (Sun) Yarrow, coneflowers, brown-eyed Susans, daisies, miniature roses, lavender, parsley. Parsley is a host plant for caterpillars.

  Silver Sorcery

  (Sun) Artemisia and lamb’s ears; add lavender, santolina, and heliotrope for scent. Let the silver and fuzzy licorice plant (Helichrysum) dangle over the sides of the container.

  Colorful & Elemental

  Theme Containers

  Colors, like features, follow the changes of the emotions.

  pablo picasso

  This is fun to try: create container gardens to honor the colors of the four elements. These next four container gardens are a bewitching mixture of annuals, ornamentals, perennials, and herbs. Remember to put the tallest plants in the center and to work outwards, planting the containers full. Use a good potting mix, and make sure your pots and containers all have drainage holes.

  Earth

  Green (full to part shade). With lots of textured foliage, this is perfect for a mysterious, shady garden. Try ferns, lady’s mantle, hostas, varieties of ‘Wizard’ coleus, licorice plant (Helichrysum), and mints for fragrance. Add white begonias or impatiens for sparkle. Variegated white and green ivy will attractively spill over the edges of the pot.

  Air

  Yellow (full sun). Plant shorter varieties of the sunflower in the center. Add yellow cockscomb, white daisies or feverfew, marigolds, lemon-colored snapdragons, yellow calendulas, yellow zinnias, and santolina. Variegated vinca vine or prostrate rosemary have foliage that will spill gracefully over the sides of the container and add fragrance and style.

  Fire

  Red (sun to part shade). For the center of the arrangement, try annual purple fountain grass; its botanical name is Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’. Or use perennial Japanese blood grass for height and visual interest. A miniature red rose or a standard tree rose in red would be gorgeous as well. Plant bright red annual sage (salvia), red geraniums, and scarlet petunias so that they dangle over the sides of the pot. Try deep purple, annual sweet potato vines to flow over the edges and to add more flair. In the autumn, switch out the spent annuals with russet- and red-colored chrysanthemums.

  Water

  Blue (shade to part shade). Plant tall blue delphiniums in the center of this pot for height. For fragrance, add heliotrope, streptocarpella, and bacopa, a trailing herb that has become popular in the past few years. Bacopa has a wonderful scent and tiny white flowers. Tuck bacopa into hanging baskets and pots to spill and drape over the sides of the pot. Finish out this theme container with purple- and blue-colored pansies, blue lobelia, and forget-me-nots. Switch out the pansies with pale violet and white-colored impatiens when the cool- weather-loving pansies fade in the summer heat.

  Culinary Herbs

  of a Different Color

  I think it pisses God off if you walk by the color purple

  in a field somewhere and don’t notice it.

  alice walker

  For added interest in the garden or in your containers or pots, look for varieties of culinary herbs with different-colored foliage. These will add even more color to the garden as they grow and bloom. Here is a colorful list to choose from. The herb is listed first, then the variety of the name (if applicable), and lastly, the color of the foliage.

  Basil ‘Dark Opal’: deep purple leaves and stem

  Basil ‘Holly’s Painted’: purple-splotched leaves

  Basil ‘Purple Ruffles’: dark purple leaves and stem

  Bay ‘Golden Bay’: golden leaves

  Fennel ‘Bronze’: brownish green leaves and stems

  Lemon Balm: variegated gold-splashed leaves

  Marjoram, Golden: gold-splashed to golden yellow leaves

  Mint, Ginger: gold-splashed leaves

  Mint, Orange Bergamot: purple- to bronze-tinged leaves

  Mint, Pineapple: cream-edged leaves

  Sage ‘Iceterina’: yellow variegated leaves

  Sage ‘Pupurascens’: purple leaves

  Sage ‘Tricolor’: purple, deep pink, and white leaves

  Sorrel ‘Red’: red-veined leaves

  Thyme, Lemon ‘Argenteus’: silver-edged leaves

  Thyme, Lemon ‘Aureus’: gold-edged leaves

  Windowsill Culinary Herb Garden

  Parsley—the jewel of the herbs,

  both in the pot and on the plate.

  albert stockli

  Herbs that are grown indoors add fresh aroma to your home, and because they are so close at hand, they encourage you to make use of them for seasonings and in food preparation. Basically, indoor-grown herbs require a sunny growing area (five to six hours of sunlight per day), water, and humidity. They will need protection from cold drafts and extreme temperatures. Also, turn your pots occasionally to promote even growth of the plants.

  Interested in the magickal associations of these herbs? Please refer to the list beginning on page 39.

  Here are a few bewitching culinary herbs that are suited to growing indoors:

  Basil (Ocimum basilicum ): Great indoor plant. Pinch off the flowers to encourage leaf production. Basil’s culinary uses are numerous. Adds a nice flavor to Italian foods, red sauces, and tomatoes.

  Bay (Laurus nobilis): Add a leaf to savory dishes, chili, or stews.

  Borage (Borago officinalis): Use these pretty and edible blue flowers to garnish food and beverages.

  Chives (Allium schoenoprasum): Cut off the flowers for improved leaf production. Chives are a versatile cooking herb. Season potatoes, eggs, salads, stews, etc.

  Marjoram (Origanum majorana): May be added to salads, eggs, or cheese dishes, or to meat in the last few moments of cooking.

  Oregano (Origanum spp.): Popular in Italian dishes, red sauces, and meat dishes.

  Parsley (Petroselinum crispum): Parsley is underappreciated until you start to learn to cook with it when it is fresh. Adds great color and freshness to many dishes.

  Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis): Great with chicken, pork, or beef. Do not overwater this plant.

  Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus): These thin aromatic leaves have a distinctive flavor. Tarr
agon is becoming popular once again as a seasoning in cooking, especially in French dishes.

  Featured Plants’ Magickal Associations

  For the advantages which fashion values are plants

  which thrive in very confined localities …

  ralph waldo emerson

  Are you all set to start your own enchanting container or city Witch garden? Here are the featured plants in this chapter, listed by their sun and shade requirements. You will see the common name listed first and then the botanical name in Latin. This makes it easier when you go to the nursery or garden center to identify and choose your plants. So do your homework—figure out what your sun and shade patterns are, then choose the best enchanting plants for your balcony, rooftop, deck, or patio. Happy magickal gardening!

  Please note: These flowers, plants, and herbs are not intended to be taken internally or to treat medical issues. Some are toxic. This listing of magickal associations is for spells and charms only.

  Shade Plants

  Begonia (Begonia spp.): a warning, encourages premonitions

  Bugle (Ajuga reptans): health, healing

  Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): courage, love

  Ferns: faerie magick, invisibility

  Forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica): improves memory, aids in finding lost treasures

  Hosta (Hosta spp.): mystery, devotion, health

  Impatiens (Impatiens spp.): also known as “Busy Lizzies” and used in spells and charms to bring a speedy outcome

  Ivy (Hedera spp.): fidelity, love, protection, grace

  Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis): happiness, protection, faerie magick, wisdom (note: mildly toxic)

  Mint (Mentha spp.): prosperity, health (note: edible culinary herb)

  Periwinkle (Vinca minor): protection, utilized in bindings (note: toxic)

  Rhododendron (Rhodora spp.): welcome, loving homes

  Sage (Salvia officinalis): wisdom, protection, helps to make wishes come true

  Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum officinale): protection, banishing unwanted spirits