The Voyage of the Northern Magic: A Family Odyssey

by Diane Stuemer

  Nothing in the previous four years, nothing in our lives, had prepared us for the enormity of this welcome. Our voyage might have been over, but the magic of our journey was not. In truth, a whole new adventure was just beginning.

  Epilogue

  “What you can do or think you can do, begin it. For boldness has magic, power, and genius in it.”

  – Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

  I’m sitting under a canopy of rustling pine trees on a rocky shore in Ontario’s Algonquin Park, listening to the music of loons and bull-frogs. The taste of wild blueberries picked earlier in the afternoon still lingers on my tongue. We’ve come by canoe, our long-awaited repeat of what had always been a cherished annual family pilgrimage. We reminisced often about this very place while travelling over seas much larger than this secluded, tree-rimmed lake.

  Almost a year has passed since our return home. The boys have resumed their appropriate grade levels at school, and are appreciating the comforts and privileges of Canada. They’ve had their fill of travelling for a while, and are just enjoying being regular kids again - although Michael does talk about backpacking to Tibet, and Jonathan anticipates a return visit to Cappadocia, and Christopher still pretends he’s a gibbon. When we returned home, little Chris had no recollection whatsoever of our house - all of his life’s memories had been formed on a boat.

  Thanks to the trip, a few more wonderful young men have become a part of our lives, these ones halfway around the world. Every week or so we receive an e-mail from a Balinese veterinarian who’s dedicated his life to the creatures of Borneo. He tells us about ambitious and worthy projects in fish farming and tree planting, helping animals and fighting logging. We continue to send funds to his group, the Friends of the National Parks, to help make a difference in their precious corner of the world. Their path, since we left, has been a difficult one. Tanjung Puting remains under siege from a variety of threats. I made a trip back to Borneo, only to discover that the situation was even more troubling than we had thought. They need help more than ever. The battle they’re waging is ours, too.

  We also get regular e-mails from Andrew Thuva in Kenya, who’s overseeing our growing list of affairs in his country. (Andrew and his brothers, Mark and Boniface, all have Yahoo! e-mail accounts now, something that tickles us pink!) Andrew tells us that his neighbour and our friend, Hamisi, is busily crafting shark-tooth jewellery (we’ve placed a large order), and Magic the Cow has borne a calf and is producing milk.

  The news from Andrew’s family is also good. Boniface’s father, Kitsao, has recovered well from his surgery, and Boniface has begun his second year at high school. The people who welcomed us home at Petrie Island contributed eleven thousand dollars for our projects, and donations from generous people from all over North America continue to come in. As a result, we are now supporting Boniface’s brother, Katana, and twelve other students at a local high school in Kilifi. We will soon be adding to that number, and expanding our program in other ways.

  We’re also collecting money to permit one or more of these students, among the top scholars in their school, to attend university. One ambitious young man’s dream is to become a physician. We’ve discovered there’s no better feeling in life than to help make someone’s dream come true. Although this aspiring young doctor doesn’t know it yet, his future is looking pretty good.

  Another of Boniface and Andrew’s brothers, Mark, has now completed his hair-stylist course. The friends of Northern Magic - led by a phenomenal Ottawa hair salon owner, Karen Sharp, who’s been donating the profits from her shop one day each month to this project - have just provided Mark with a loan to establish his own salon in the Kenyan village of Mtwapa. He plans to call it Mark’s Magic Hair & Beauty Center.

  We recently received an e-mail from Mark that brought tears to our eyes. He wrote this message not only to us, but to all the friends he’s never met, whose generosity and faith have given him a chance to pull his entire family out of poverty.

  “When we first met,” Mark wrote, “it didn’t occur to me that you would change my life. I still hold fond memories of our talks and strolls in Kilifi. This is a time when I wish we were together to share my joy of life changing for the better, because of caring friends who at one time were simple strangers. Again I appreciate your kindness and your great support. With you in support I see my dreams come true. May God bless you all.”

  People often ask Herbert and me how we’ve adjusted to being back in the real world. I don’t know how to answer that question, because in many ways this world, with its rather artificial pressures, feels less real than the one we left behind. A large part of us is still out there. We’re very conscious that as westerners we live within a very tiny, exclusive and privileged enclave. We’re painfully aware that if our African friends ever came to visit and saw our large suburban home, we’d feel embarrassment and shame that we aren’t doing more.

  We haven’t resumed regular jobs, but have instead focussed on the things that have sprung out of our journey - sharing our story through writing and public speaking, helping others realize that they, too, are citizens of the world, and, best and most important of all, raising money for our projects in Indonesia and Kenya. Certainly, our love of travel has not been quenched - if anything, it’s grown. We spend a lot of time dreaming up our next big trip, wondering what adventures are in store, what twists and turns our life may take in the next ten years.

  All I know for sure is that Herbert was right when he threw a photo of a small blue and white sloop on the kitchen table that day and said God wanted us to buy that boat. It’s clear to me now that our family was meant to take this journey. We learned that ordinary people can dream big dreams and make them happen, whether they are ready or not. We learned that the world is full of good people, who are just like us in all the ways that matter. And we learned that those of us who have been fortunate enough to make a living and thereby build ourselves a life, have the power - and also the duty - to help build a better world, even if only by changing the world of one single person.

  I hear a little animal noise beside me, and glance up to see the face of Magic - not Magic the Gibbon or Magic the Cow, but a brand new Magic who’s bounded into our lives. It’s Magic the Puppy, who looks up at me with adoring brown eyes, one ear up and one ear down. She’s imploring me to take her for another swim. The boys are playing Magic Cards beside the tent, and Herbert, by the water’s edge, is busily improvising a repair to our ancient cedar-strip canoe - newly dubbed the Leaky Tiki - using medical gauze and candle wax. Some things never change.

  But I don’t oblige Magic with a swim, for my mind is elsewhere - whether in the past or the future, it’s hard to say. To be surrounded by family and trees and water and the sounds of nature has brought a certain magical feeling back with tremendous and unexpected force. Where might I be, right now, if I close my eyes? On a river in Borneo? Hunting for shark teeth on a beach in Kenya? Or maybe embarking on a camel trek to Timbuktu? What new places and friends are out there, awaiting our discovery?

  Life - as Michael would say - is glorious. There’s still so much to do, and not a moment to waste.

  Diane Stuemer

  Stratton Lake, Algonquin Park, Ontario

  July 20, 2002

  If you want to become part of the journey of Northern Magic, or simply want to find out more about our past and future adventures, this book is only the beginning! Visit us at: www.northernmagic.com.

  Photo Insert

  Acknowledgements

  The true story of Northern Magic is the story of people everywhere, helping and giving to others. We thank you all, whether we had the space to acknowledge you by name, or not.

  Some of the people who helped us during our hectic pre-departure phase were: Marco Heinrich, Shawn Murphy, Shawn Hooper, Ghaffar Ahmed, Ali Al Aldein, Robert Alain, Maureen Scale, Dr. David Edmison, Dr. Chiam-Vimonvat, Marilyn Dow, Mina King, and Carole Chenier.

  We’d also like to thank:

  Micha
el Mitchell, for his songs of the sea and songs of Canada, which accompanied us and inspired us around the world; Joanne Griffin and other teachers and students of Fallingbrook School, who supported us in many ways before, during, and after our trip; Gina Nichols and Sandy Mountford, for hosting us in Washington, and especially Gina for rescuing us during the last-minute scramble to move out of the house; Betty and Sam Switzer in Ft. Lauderdale, for permitting us to stay at your marina; Merita Zuñiga, and her husband, Francisco Bauta, in Jaimanitas, Cuba, for the feast and for sharing what you had; Amanda, Kaspar, Greg, and Oliver, who helped us through the Panama Canal at the last minute; Delphine Barsinas in Tahuata Island, Marquesas, for showing us Marquesan hospitality; Ambrose and Natacha Colombani in Tahiti, for the tour of the island and for showing us the giant eels; Bob and Tupou Marsters, Bill Marsters, and especially Metua Atuatika, Palmerston Island, for treating us like kings; Petiola Maratu’u in Tonga, for sharing your niece’s wedding and much more; Joeli and Kasanita Lau in Suva, Fiji, for making an underground feast for us, whether we could stay to eat it or not; Bobby and Niru Kumar in Suva, Fiji, for taking us under your wing, and especially Niru, for your tears; Ed McLaughlin from Hawaii, on Aka, for helping Herbert earn his Ph.D. in refrigeration mechanics and only accepting three cookies in return.

  Many members of the Rotary Club of Kippa Ring, Scarborough, Australia, but especially Brian Shoobert, and Steve and Melissa Griffith, who gave us a home away from home; all the Ottawa Citizen readers who sent us letters, and to Laura Robin who delivered them, just when we needed it; Brian and Beth Winterburn in Bowen, for adopting our family like stray cats; Yves Matson, our sixth crewmember for a month, for engaging us in endless philosophical discussions and teaching us truly how to laugh, even though some of your jokes were pretty rude; Andy Schinner and Lana Cherkasova on Futuna, and Jim and Dianne Carlin on September Song, for your lasting friendship; the Dodge family on Nanamuk, for sharing some wonderful adventures with us; the many other cruising friends from many boats and many countries whose help and friendship enriched us.

  Ketut, a young waiter in northern Bali, for opening our eyes and really making us think; “Mr. Ambon” in Kalimantan, for caring enough to ask important questions; Andi, Ferry, Anang, and Pak Susiantoro, for being our guides and our friends and especially for your help during my second research trip back to Borneo; Wanto, Dr. Gede Suarsadana, and Dr. Bayu Wirayuda in Kalimantan and Bali, for showing us your dedication to helping protect something important on behalf of all of us; Sin Boon Lim in Malaysia, for a real Chinese meal and much computer help; Bill and Connie Price in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, for more favours and hospitality than I can list; Dr. Harry Heckel, single-handedly circumnavigating in his 80s, for living life with passion; Pharanee Deters and the late Bill Deters of Mae Sot, Thailand, for sharing your precious gibbons with us; Kodah Chotung in Thailand, for the boat tour and visit to your village, and for not using perfume containing alcohol; Ma Chok, a young woman of the Karen (Long-Neck) Tribe near Mae Hong Son, Thailand, for your curiosity and beauty; Police Chief Amangiri of the Nicobar Islands, for arresting us and thus giving us a great story to tell our grandchildren; Ekka Kehelkaduwa Withan Darmasena and his beautiful wife, Shavanthi, in Sri Lanka, for friendship, hospitality, and smiles when we needed it; Ahmed Mohmed in the Maldives, for saying “yes” to everything; Captain Ilyas Hassan and his crew, Addu Atoll, Maldives, for a birthday party none of us will ever forget; Rob Jurgens in Tanga, Tanzania, for unbelievable hospitality and for buying a roll of handmade sisal rope; Tony and Daphne Britchford of Kilifi, Kenya, for providing a home away from home.

  Kenneth Muriithi of Plan International in Kilifi, Kenya, for showing us how it ought to be done, for arranging so many tours of villages and schools, and especially for helping make our own project happen; Andrew Thuva of Kilifi, for being probably the most important person we’ve ever met; Boniface Kitsao, Katana Kitsao, Hamisi Mwanadoro, and Mark Thuva, for your friendship and helping us grow; Kalimbo and Dr. Kate of Plan International, for helping us buy a milk cow; Alice and Don Williams, for hosting us at Lewa Downs and for making the first contribution to the Boniface and Hamisi Project; the incomparable Karimosho, our first Maasai friend, for walking slowly enough that we could keep up; Ron Beaton and his family and staff at Rekero, Kenya, especially Jackson Saigilu Ole Looseyia, for helping children in need and turning down a tip; Valens John, brave schoolteacher of Maasai children; the Maasai grandmother Deeay, for inviting us into your smoky mud hut and warming Christopher in your robe; Salem Yeslam in Aden, Yemen, for not caring whether you got paid; Weldemicael Habtezian in Massawa, Eritrea, for your friendship and for letting us cool off in your high-ceilinged home; Abu Mohammed Hamed in Suakin, Sudan, for taking care of us and bringing us back carrots from Port Sudan; Nageeb Mostafa in Safaga, Egypt, for your endless great stories, all of which ended up “Boom! Kalaboush!”; Ekbal El Asyouti from Cairo, for your gifts and friendship; the mighty Ahmed of Cairo, for protecting us from the evil Ali Baba; many Canadian embassy staff in Cairo, including Stuart Bale, Nicola Dunn, and “Smooth Sammy” Samir Kader, for defeating the Grinch and bringing Christmas to us, far from home; Customs officials and DHL delivery company staff in Egypt and Italy, for giving us an endless fund of dramatic and exciting stories of triumph over adversity; Don Amoore on Lutana in Turkey, for sharing his brain teasers with all of us, especially Jonathan.

  The amazing Captain George Kotsovilis and his wonderful wife, Georgia, for more favours, gifts, and outstanding Greek hospitality than anyone could ever dream of, and especially for caring about Africa; Peppino, Lucia, and Blu Falabella in Sicily, for endless help and extraordinary hospitality, even though you all eat spaghetti the wrong way; Teresa and James Peralta, for helping us understand Gibraltar; Ana Maria Albuquerque Taviera and Filipe de Sousa Lima, for your tours, gifts, and hospitality, and for your continuing friendship; Paul Dole of Ottawa for connecting us with so many wonderful new friends; many prayer groups in different cities, who prayed for us when we crossed the Atlantic; Wayne Cuddington and Bev Wake of the Ottawa Citizen, for being there in Nova Scotia when we finally emerged from the fog; Joanne Sams, Steve Morden, Anita Paeglis, and Delton Sams in Gaspé, for all your friendship and hospitality; Commander Tom Turnbull, Lt. Commander “Godd” Pierre Godin, and Maryanik LeGoff and the rest of the Sea Cadets in Trois Rivières, for everything you did to make our stay there memorable; Fern Beauvais of Papineauville Marina, for making me feel like Julia Roberts and for crying along with me when we left; Bob, Judy, and Lady from Catch the Sun, for your help in Montreal; Douglas Thomas and others from the Navy League of Canada, for the escort to Petrie Island in the rain and for making us laugh about you-know-what; Steve Fischer of CBC-TV, for signing on as crew and for bringing out the best in all of us; Laurent Blanchet, for caring about our boys; Graham Vokey, alias Jean Big Foot, The Pirate of Petrie Island, for your gifts, your friendship, and for help moving into our home; Bruce Johnston, who also helped us move and whose friendship has enriched our lives; our many neighbours on Brookridge Crescent, who helped us unpack and who yanked man-sized weeds out of our front garden.

  We also have a very special place in our hearts for the late Emily Acton, who showed us the meaning of true courage; Karen Sharp, who demonstrated extraordinary generosity to our African friends, and continues to do so; David Villeneuve, for more favours than we can count, including driving all the way to Montreal to pick up a shipment of Balinese souvenirs; Diane King and Paul Couch, and Aimee and Jeremy King, for establishing and maintaining the Northern Magic Web site, for supporting all our special projects in many ways, for organizing the Petrie Island homecoming party, and for becoming our friends; everyone who donated food, supplies, services and gifts at our wonderful Petrie Island homecoming, resulting in $11,000 raised for our projects and my gaining five pounds; and a big thanks and hug to all the people who stood in the rain along the shore at Petrie Island and at various docks and marinas on the way, greeting us as we arrived home.

 
; We need to thank Neil Reynolds, former editor of the Ottawa Citizen, for believing in us and giving us a chance to share our experiences and growth; everyone else at the Ottawa Citizen, including Wendy Warburton, who permitted us to share our story and who supported our efforts to publicize important causes; all the readers of the Ottawa Citizen, other newspapers, and the Web site, who travelled along with us and who became an important part of our adventure; and especially all those who contributed money and services to our projects in Palmerston Island, Indonesia, and Kenya, especially the Friends of Boniface and Hamisi, who transformed our journey and our lives.

  We also have to make special mention of Mike and Karen Hooper of Orleans, and Shawn and Kevin Hooper, who did so much for us over many years, including endless overseeing and maintenance of our house and a midnight chase after lease-breaking tenants. Kevin, your instruction of Michael in the art of burpalese was a major contribution to our trip as well.

  I also sincerely thank Douglas Gibson, Jonathan Webb, Alex Schultz, and the rest of the great people at McClelland & Stewart, for making it possible to share our story with a wider audience. You not only made me feel this project was very important to you, you also somehow convinced me to cut my manuscript to 40 per cent of its original size. It’s been a great privilege and honour working with you. Linda, Mom, and Dad, Aunt Ethel, Debbie Black, Bruce Johnston, and Diane King, thank you as well for your valuable advice and help with the manuscript.

  I don’t have the words to thank my family adequately: my mother, Jeanette King, my father, Frank King, and my sister, Linda Maslechko, for the many hours of work you devoted daily to making this trip possible and to keeping us afloat and safe. You are the true sixth, seventh, and eighth crewmembers of Northern Magic. Your love and support reached over the miles to us every day, and still does.