Fashion History
Page 29
Slade, T. (2009), Japanese Fashion: A Cultural History, London: Berg.
Snodgrass, M. E. (2014) World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence, Armonk, NY: M. E. Sharpe.
So, J. F. (2013), “Scented Trails: Amber as Aromatic in Medieval China,” Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society 23 (1): 85–101.
Spencer, H. (1854), Essays: Scientific, Political, and Speculative. Library Edition, containing Seven Essays not before republished, and various other Additions (London: Williams and Norgate, 1891). Vol. 3. Available online: http://oll.libertyfund.org/titles/337 (accessed June 26, 2016).
Spencer H. ([1864] 2002), Principles of Biology, vol. 1, Honolulu, HI: University Press of the Pacific.
Sproles, G. B. (1974), “Fashion Theory: A Conceptual Framework,” Advances in Consumer Research 1: 463–72, Association for Consumer Research. Available online: http://acrwebsite.org/volumes/5731/volumes/v01/NA-01 (accessed March 20, 2016).
Sproles, G. B. (1981), “Analyzing Fashion Life Cycles—Principles and Perspectives,” Journal of Marketing 45 (4): 116–24.
“Staatsiejas van de Sultan Hamengku Buwono VI en VII van Yogyakarta” (2015), Nationaal Museum van Wereldculturen, object nr. TM-1595-2. Available online: http://collectie.wereldculturen.nl/Default.aspx?ccid=57842&lang= (accessed July 15, 2016).
Steele, V. (2001), The Corset: A Cultural History, New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
Steele, V. (2005), “Preface,” in V. Steele (ed.), Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, Vol. 1, xv–xviii, New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons.
Steiner, C. B. (1985), “Another Image of Africa: Toward an Ethnohistory of European Cloth Marketed in West Africa, 1873–1960,” Ethnohistory: The Bulletin of the Ohio Valley Historical Conference 32 (2): 91–110.
Stephens, J. (2008), “Ancient Roman Hairdressing: (On) Hairpins and Needles,” Journal of Roman Archaeology 21: 1110–32.
Strutt, J. (1842), A Complete View of the Dress and Habits of the People of England, with an introduction by J. R. Planché, London: H. G. Bohn.
Sturtevant, W. C. M. (1980), “Les Inuit du Québec-Labrador méridional/The Inuit of Southern Québec-Labrador,” Études Inuit / Inuit Studies 4 (1/2): 47–49.
Styles, J. (2007), The Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in Eighteenth-Century England, New Haven and London: Yale University Press.
Sylvanus, N. (2016), Patterns in Circulation: Cloth, Gender and Materiality in West Africa, Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
Taborin, Y. (1974), “La parure en coquillage de l'Epipaléolithique au Bronze ancien France,” Gallia Pre’histoire 17 (1): 101–79 and 17 (2): 307–417.
Taylor, J. G. (2007), “Identity, Nation and Islam: A Dialogue About Men’s and Women’s Dress in Indonesia,” in M. Roces and L. Edwards (eds.), The Politics of Dress in Asia and the Americas, 101–20, Sussex: Sussex Academic Press.
Taylor, L. (2002), The Study of Dress History, Manchester and New York: Manchester University Press.
Taylor, L. (2004), Establishing Dress History, Manchester and New York: Manchester University Press.
Taylor, L. (2013), “Fashion and Dress History: Theoretical and Methodological Approaches,” in S. Black, A. de la Haye, J. Entwistle, A. Rocamora, R. Root and H. Thomas (eds.), The Handbook of Fashion Studies, 23–43, London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
Teilhet-Fisk, J. (1999), “The Miss Heilala Beauty Pagaent: Where Beauty Is More than Skin Deep,” in M. L. Damhorst, K. A. Miller and S. O. Michelman (eds.), The Meanings of Dress, 67–77, New York: Fairchild.
Tezcan, H. (2000) “Fashion at the Ottoman Court,” Art Culture Antiques 3: 2–49.
Tezcan, H. (2012), “The Evaluation of the Sultan’s Costume Collection According to the Ottoman Fashion,” Endymatologika 4: 25–29.
The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea: Travel and Trade in the Indian Ocean by a Merchant of the First Century, Ancient History Sourcebook: Fordham University. Available online: http://sourcebooks.fordham.edu/halsall/ancient/periplus.asp (accessed October 22, 2016).
The Wild One (1953), [film] Dir. László, Benedek, USA: Stanley Kramer Productions.
Thomas, P. A. (1979), “In the Maelstrom of Change: The Indian Trade and Cultural Process in the Middle Connecticut River Valley, 1635–1665,” PhD diss., University of Massachusetts, Amherst.
Thomas, T. K. ed. (2016), Designing Identity: The Power of Textiles in Late Antiquity, Princeton: Princeton University Press.
Thomas, T. K. (2016), “Material Meaning in Late Antiquity,” in T. K. Thomas (ed.), Designing Identity: The Power of Textiles in Late Antiquity, 20–53, Princeton: Princeton University Press.
Thomson, J. (1873–1874), Illustrations of China and Its People, a Series of Two Hundred Photographs with Letterpress Description of the Places and People Represented. 4 vols, London: Sampson Low, Marston Low, and Searle.
Tilke, M. (1923), Orientalische Kostüme in Schnitt und Farbe (Oriental Costumes in Cut and Color), Berlin: Verlag Ernst Wasmuth AG.
Tortora, P. G. (2010), “History and Development of Fashion,” in J. B. Eicher and P. G. Tortora (eds.), Global Perspectives, Vol. 10, Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, 159–70, Oxford and New York: Berg Publishers and Oxford University Press.
Tortora, P. G., and S. B. Marcketti (2015), Survey of Historic Costume, 6th ed., London and New York: Bloomsbury.
Trinkaus, E., A. P. Buzhilova, M. B. Mednikova and M. V. Dobrovolskaya (2014), The People of Sunghir: Burials, Bodies, and Behavior in the Earlier Upper Paleolithic, New York: Oxford University Press.
Tsui, C. (2016), “‘Fashion’ in the Chinese Context: An Academic Approach,” in M. A. Jansen and J. Craik (eds.), Modern Fashion Traditions: Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 51–70, London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
University of Oxford (2009), “World’s Oldest Manufactured Beads Are Older Than Previously Thought,” Science Daily. Available online: http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/05/090505163021.htm (accessed August 8, 2016).
van Assche, A.M. (2010), “Overview of Japan,” in J. E. Vollmer (ed.), East Asia, Vol. 6, Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, 345–54, Oxford and New York: Berg Publishers and Oxford University Press.
van Buren, A. H. (2011), Illuminating Fashion: Dress in the Art of Medieval France and the Netherlands, 1325–1515, New York: The Morgan Library and Museum.
van Driel Murray, C. (1987), “Roman Footwear: A Mirror of Fashion and Society,” in D. E. Friendship-Taylor, J. Swann and S. Thomas (eds.), Recent Research in Archaeological Footwear, 32–42, London: Association of Archaeological Illustrators and Surveyors.
Veblen, T. (1899), The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study in the Evolution of Institutions, New York: Macmillan.
Veldhuisen, H. C. (1993), Batik Belanda, 1840–1940: Dutch Influences in Batik from Java, History and Stories, translated by M. Ader, Jakarta: Gaya Favorit Press.
Vitalis, O. ([1075-1143?] 1854), The Ecclesiastical History of England and Normandy, Vol. III translated by T. Forester, London: Henry G. Bohn.
Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. (1993), Pharonic Egyptian Clothing, Leiden: E. J. Brill.
Vollmer, J. E. (1977), In the Presence of the Dragon Throne: Ch’ing Dynasty Costume (1644–1911) in the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada: Royal Ontario Museum.
Voss, B. L. (2008), The Archaeology of Ethnogenesis: Race and Sexuality in Colonial San Francisco, Berkeley: University of California Press.
Ward, E. (1699), A Trip to New-England with a Character of the Country and People, Both English and Indians, Ann Arbor, MI: University Microfilms.
Warner, J. (1977), China, The Land and Its People: Early Photographs by John Thomson, Hong Kong: John Warner Publications.
Waugh, C. (1999), “‘Well-Cut Through the Body’: Fitted Clothing in Twelfth-Century Europe,” Dress 26: 3–16.
Weiner, A. B., and J. Schneider (1989), Cloth and the Human Experience. Washington DC: Smithsonian Institution.
Weiss,
H. (1864), Kostümekunde, Stuttgart: Ebner and Seubert.
Welters, L. (1988), Women’s Traditional Costume in Attica, Greece, Nafplion: Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation.
Welters, L., and M. Ordoñez (2004), “Blue Roots and Fuzzy Dirt: Archaeological Textiles from Native American Burials,” in P. B. Drooker (ed.), Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, New York State Museum Bulletin 500, 185–96, Albany, NY: State Education Department.
Welters, L., and A. Lillethun, eds (2007), The Fashion Reader, Oxford and New York: Berg.
Welters, L., and A. Lillethun, eds (2011), The Fashion Reader, 2nd ed., Oxford and New York: Berg.
Welters, L., M. Ordoñez, K. Tarleton and J. Smith (1996), “European Textiles from Seventeenth-Century New England Indian Cemeteries,” in L. D. De Cunzo and B. L. Herman (eds.), Historical Archaeology and the Study of American Culture, 193–232, Winterthur: The Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum.
William Merritt Chase, Exhibition, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, October 9, 2016 to January 16, 2017.
Williams, R. ([1643] 1936), A Key into the Language of America, Providence: The Rhode Island and Providence Plantations Tercentenary Committee.
Willmott, C. (2005), “From Stroud to Strouds: The Hidden History of a British Fur Trade Textile,” Textile History 36 (2): 196–234.
Wilson, E. (1985), Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London: Virago.
Wilson, L. A. (2011), “‘De novo modo’: The Birth of Fashion in the Middle Ages,” PhD diss., Fordham University, New York.
Winlock, H. E., and Arnold, D. (2010), Tutankhamun’s Funeral, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Winner, V. H. (2001), “Abigail Adams and ‘The Rage of Fashion’,” Dress 28: 64–76.
Winthrop, J. (1908), History of New England, 1630–1649, vol. 1, edited by J. K. Hosmer, New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons.
Wolf, E. R. (1982), Europe and the People Without History, Berkeley: University of California Press.
Wolf, E. R. ([1982], 1997), Europe and the People Without History, Berkeley: University of California Press.
Wood, W. ([1635] 1977), New England’s Prospect, edited by A. T. Vaughan, Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press.
World Digital Library (2016), “Florentine Codex,” Library of Congress, https://www.wdl.org/en/item/10096/ (accessed September 13, 2016).
Wroth, L. C. (1970), The Voyages of Giovanni da Verrazzano, 1524–1528, New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
Zelinsky, W. (2004), “Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire,” Journal of Cultural Geography 22 (1): 83–143.
Zorn, E. (2005), “Dressed to Kill: The Embroidered Fashion Industry of the Sakaka of Highland Bolivia,” in R. A. Root (ed.), The Latin American Fashion Reader, 114–41, London and New York: Berg Publishers.
Index
References to figures are displayed in bold.
Adams, Abigail, on fashion, here
Africa, fashion in,
sub-Saharan Africa, here–here
see also beads, trade networks
African American dress, history of, here, here–here
Agins, Teri, “end of fashion,” here
Akoko, Amonia, here, here
amber, here, here
Anawalt, Patricia, here–here
ancient civilizations and fashion, here, here, here, here–here, here–here
see also Andean culture, Byzantine Empire, China, Egypt, Greek fashion, Han fashion, India, Persian fashion, Roman Empire, Roman fashion, Roman hairstyling, Taklamakan Desert, Vecellio
Andean culture, fashion in, here–here
anthropology, and fashion history, here, here, here, here, here
anti-fashion, in hippie ethos, here
Aoki, Shoichi, here
apparel, as term, here
Appiah, Kwame Anthony, here
apron, Attica, here–here
Arcades Project, here, here, here
archaeology, here, here–here, here, here–here, here, here–here
Arnold, Janet, here
art history, and fashion history, here
Asian influences in western fashion, here–here
Atlantic world, as historical subject, here
Aymara, here–here
Aztec culture, fashion in, here–here
backstrap loom, here, here
Bai Juyi, here–here
Baizerman, Suzanne et al., here, here, here
Ball, Jennifer, here, here–here, here
“barbarians,” here, here
Barber, Elizabeth, here, here
bark cloth, Hawai’i, here–here, here
see also lace bark cloth
Barnard, Malcolm, here
Barthes, Roland, here, here, here, here
Barton, Lucy, here
batik, here, here, here–here, here, here–here
Baudrillard, Jean, here
beads, here–here, here, here
earliest evidence for ornamentation, here
glass, here, here
shell, here, here, here–here, here, here, here
Beat culture, here
Beaudelaire, Charles, here
beauty marks, Chinese, here, here
Benjamin, Walter, here, here
Birmingham School of Cultural Studies, here
bliaut, here
blogs, here, here–here
bloomer costume, here–here, here
Blumer, Herbert, here–here
body as scholarly focus
See habitus
body marking, here–here, here–here, here–here, here
bone pins, here–here
Bosman, Willem, here–here
Boucher, François, here, here, here
Bourdieu, Pierre, here–here
Brannon, Evelyn, here
Braudel, Fernand, here–here, here, here–here
Breward, Christopher, here
bricolage, in hippie fashion, here
bridal dress, Attica, Greece, here–here, here
Bronze Age, here, here, here–here
bumster pant style, here, here, here
burial sites, here, here
Native American, here–here, here, here,
Peru, here
see also, Sungir, Téviec, Yingpin Man
bustle style, here, here, here
Butler, Judith, here
Byzantine dress, in Europe, here
Byzantine Empire, fashion in, here–here
calicoes, here–here, here
call for research, here
Cambodia, fashion in, here–here
camelids, in South America, here
Cannon, Aubrey, here–here
capitalism, here, here, here–here
Caribbean culture, fashion in, here
Carns, Paula Mae, here–here
cashmere fiber, here
casta painting, here–here, here, here, here
Castiglione, Balthasar, here
Central Asia
coats of, here
influence in India, here
see also trousers
Challamel, Augustin, here
Champlain, Samuel de, here, here
Chanel, Coco, here
Chase, William Merritt, here, here
China
fashion in, here, here–here, here–here, here– here
influence in Japan, here
influence in Korea, here–here
Chinese language, fashion terms, here, here
Chinoiserie, here
chiton, here–here
chopine, here, here, here
Christianity
influence on scope of coverage, here, here, here, here
missionaries, here, here, here, here–here
westernization of dress, here, here, here, here, here
“civilization” associated with European dress, here, here, here, here, here, here, here
Cixi, empress dowager, here–here
c
lassic, as term, here
clothing, as term, here–here, here, here
coats, here
and Native Americans, here, here
Byzantine, here, here
Central Asian, here, here, here, here–here, here
Chinese, here, here
see also kebaya, kimono, jacket, robes
codices, here–here, here
collective selection (fashion theory), here–here
colonialism, role in European fashion diffusion, here, here–here
colonization
and fashion in Africa, here
and fashion in Cambodia, here–here
British in India here
Dutch in Indonesia, here
color
batik dyes, here–here
blue, here–here
changing preferences, here, here, here, here
parti-colored hose, here, here–here
symbolism in China, here
conspicuous consumption (fashion theory), here
see also Veblen
Constantinople, here–here, here–here
Cook, Captain James, here
corporal schema, here
corset, here
cosmetics
Byzantine Empire, here–here, here, here
China, here–here, here, here– here
Persia here
costume books, here–here, here, here, here
costume history, See fashion history
Costume Society of America, here, here
Costume Society of Great Britain, here
costume, as term, here–here, here, here
Costume (journal), here, here
cotton
in Central and South America, here, here
Industrial Revolution, here
printed, here–here
trade, here, here, here, here–here
courtly societies, fashion in, here, here, here, here, here, here–here
Byzantium, here, here
Cambodia, here
China, here–here, here–here, here, here
European, here, here–here
Hawai’i, here–here
India, here–here
Javanese, here–here, here–here, here
Korean, here–here
Ottoman, here–here
Persian, here–here
Seljuq, here
Courtauld Institute of Art, here
courtesans, here, here, here, here, here
see also prostitutes, Theodora